Attaching Threaded Rod to Timber
Rod
Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
right through (for aesthetic reasons). Damned if I can think of anything
suitable! I guess somewhere there might be a thing with a flange that
would screw onto the threaded rod and allow four screws into the wood?
Or a simple strip steel thing.
I do want a ready made thing for now. Not set up for backing metal at
the moment.
Any suggestions?
--
Rod
Andy Burns
> Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
> One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
> the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
> right through
Nut insert?
Tim W
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 18:16
Does it need to be strong in tension or laterally?
How about
Grind some roughness into the sides, thoroughly degrease and bond in
(Araldite?)
Other than that, 2" square plate washer (builder's type, Screwfix) and a nut
glued on the back. Drill holes and screw on, trapping the semi-captive nut
between the washer and the wood - drill a clearance hole into the wood so
nut can recess.
Or just araldite the stud into one bit of wood, then do nut up on the other.
--
Tim Watts
This space intentionally left blank...
Rod
fine. But the threaded rod will be in tension so the tee-nut would have
to go on the visible outside of the time hence not acceptable to the
higher authorities. :-)
Currently searching the rest of that site to see if they have anything
else that would do.
Thanks - it was close. And very quick. :-)
--
Rod
Tim W
wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 18:29
> Andy Burns wrote:
>> On 25/10/09 18:16, Rod wrote:
>>
>>> Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
>>> One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
>>> the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
>>> right through
>>
>> Nut insert?
>>
>>
http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?fType=Fasteners&MainCategoryID=12&ProductCategoryID=306
>>
> If that had four screw holes instead of four spikes, I think it would be
> fine. But the threaded rod will be in tension so the tee-nut would have
> to go on the visible outside of the time hence not acceptable to the
> higher authorities. :-)
Try B&Q. Some metal table legs are screwed into a round plate with 4 or 5
holes via a single stud. That stud *might* be M10.
Or this:
http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/mounting-plate-round-13232.html
Falco
> Andy Burns wrote:
>> On 25/10/09 18:16, Rod wrote:
>>
>>> Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of
>>> timber. One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put
>>> washer/nut on the end. But the other end needs to be secure without
>>> making a hole right through
>>
>> Nut insert?
>>
>> http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?fType=Fasteners&MainCategoryID=12&ProductCategoryID=306
>>
> If that had four screw holes instead of four spikes, I think it would
> be fine. But the threaded rod will be in tension so the tee-nut would
> have to go on the visible outside of the time hence not acceptable to
> the higher authorities. :-)
Drill the necessary holes in it for the screws - and use dome head screws to
take the tensile load - would that not work?
If there is a problem with the dome heads that stops the two pieces of
timber from making contact with each other, simply drill holes to
accommodate the heads.
Falco
Bolted
> Andy Burns wrote:
> > On 25/10/09 18:16, Rod wrote:
>
> >> Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
> >> One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
> >> the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
> >> right through
>
> > Nut insert?
>
>
> If that had four screw holes instead of four spikes, I think it would be
> fine. But the threaded rod will be in tension so the tee-nut would have
> to go on the visible outside of the time hence not acceptable to the
> higher authorities. :-)
>
> Currently searching the rest of that site to see if they have anything
> else that would do.
>
> Thanks - it was close. And very quick. :-)
>
> --
> Rod
The link was to a tee nut rather than an nutsert/nut insert.
Andy Burns
> The link was to a tee nut rather than an nutsert/nut insert.
>
> http://shop.comdir.co.uk/Products.aspx?intGroupID=1001
heh! I was seconds away from suggesting that very page!
Steve Firth
> Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
> One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
> the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
> right through (for aesthetic reasons).
Umm, drill a large hole in the "other end" sufficient for the washer and
nut and to recess the same below the surface of the timber then blank
off with a plug.
Cicero
=================================================
One part of this type of pipe clip might suit:
The top and bottom are connected by a threaded rod - not sure what size.
If not suitable try a 'google' for adjustable feet; they have a threaded
rod screwed into a solid plastic base.
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
Rod
Bit worried about those - in a nice hardwood like oak or beech, I'd
probably be happy. But this is non-specific softwood and I don't think
I'd trust them.
That's possibly why my brain was imagining a large flange with four well
spaced screw holes.
--
Rod
Rod
Unfortunately it is not going to work. The timber is too thin to house
the nut and a plug as well as retaining enough thickness to take the
tension. Also, the timber is already fully finished.
--
Rod
Malcolm
Malcolm
js.b1
These screw into a hole via an allen key, take metric screw/bolt?
Dowel screw?
One end woodscrew, other end metric?
T-nut as already suggested.
I assume a neatly countersunk allen/torx stainless screw is out? Or
security-type with twin-pin (bit excessive, but gives a different
appearance than "held together with bolts".
Steve Walker
Counterbore the visible side, bolt through and then insert a plug of the
same wood? Should be virtually invisible.
SteveW
Rod
I think that is what Steve Firth suggested. The wood isn't thick enough
to allow that and still have enough strength to take the load on the
nut/washer.
--
Rod
Rod
--
Rod
Rod
<>
> Or this:
>
> http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/mounting-plate-round-13232.html
>
That looks as if it would be fine - but jolly expensive!
--
Rod
Tim W
GMM
How about the fittings for attaching things like sinks to walls?
Threaded (for the nut) on one end and with a screw thread on the
other. I'm pretty certain the ones I bought a while ago (Wickes but
they have them in S/Fix / B&Q) were M10, but it rather depends on how
long you need it to be and how much thread needs to be accessible
between the two timbers.
Stuart Noble
Car body filler! Oversize the hole a little so it doesn't have to be
perfectly aligned.
Andy Dingley
> Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
> One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
> the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
> right through (for aesthetic reasons).
Hard to say definitely, without knowing more about it.
Can you make a hole, so long as nothing protrudes afterwards?
Can you make a hole and plug it?
Where are the forces acting? Tension in the rod? Shear? As you're
using M10, presumably there's a significant force involved and any
"attachment plate" would itself have to be well attached.
I suspect I'd be looking at a mortice into the end of the timber and
the rod screwing through a nut & washer dropped down this mortice.
However that also reduces the thickness of the timber that's taking
the load by a significant amount. There's also the risk of rain
collecting in there and rot.
I guess I'd probably end up drilling a counterbore and having a hole
visible, but without the protrusion. A totally hidden fixing would be
either too awkward, or too inefficient in terms of timber thickness /
load.
Rick... (The other Rick)
How about one of these?
http://www.just-clips.co.uk/products.asp?justcat=7&justname=Malleable%20Iron
They also do a brass version
Rick... (The other Rick)
Science and sound engineering will always prevail in the end
"for nature cannot be fooled" [Feynman]
Rick... (The other Rick)
Or how about one of these with a bit of fettling?
http://www.stickituk.com/pages/product_overview/post_holders_floor&wall_plates/fig-070.html
The Natural Philosopher
The Natural Philosopher
Rick... (The other Rick)
>I'm having a blond moment!
>
>Want to attach a piece of M10 threaded rod between two pieces of timber.
>One end I shall simply drill a hole right through and put washer/nut on
>the end. But the other end needs to be secure without making a hole
>right through (for aesthetic reasons). Damned if I can think of anything
>suitable! I guess somewhere there might be a thing with a flange that
>would screw onto the threaded rod and allow four screws into the wood?
>Or a simple strip steel thing.
>
>I do want a ready made thing for now. Not set up for backing metal at
>the moment.
>
>Any suggestions?
Bingo!
http://www.canford.co.uk/ProductResources/ig/2580.pdf
What you want is the 10mm Ceiling plate.
Bet it's expensive...
Steve Walker
Yes, sorry, I only saw his reply after I'd sent mine - I really should have
refreshed my newsreader and checked for new posts first.
SteveW
Rod
> Rod <poly...@ntlworld.com>
> wibbled on Sunday 25 October 2009 22:47
>
>> Tim W wrote:
>> <>
>>> Or this:
>>>
>>> http://www.locksonline.com/acatalog/mounting-plate-round-13232.html
>>>
>> That looks as if it would be fine - but jolly expensive!
>>
>
> How many do you need?
>
28p each.
--
Rod
Rod
<>
> How about one of these?
>
> http://www.just-clips.co.uk/products.asp?justcat=7&justname=Malleable%20Iron
>
> They also do a brass version
>
<>
them all over. Just trying to decide where to get some.
Thanks to all who have made suggestions. There are definitely several
other options if this does not work out - albeit all seem much more
expensive.
Car body filler ain't going to be a flier. Regardless of how good it
might be, I don't have the right feelings about it for this purpose. If
I had to do anything more substantial myself, I would prefer to make my
own metal plates.
--
Rod
Bolted
> Car body filler ain't going to be a flier. Regardless of how good it
> might be, I don't have the right feelings about it for this purpose. If
> I had to do anything more substantial myself, I would prefer to make my
> own metal plates.
I can't imagine the (sensible) application which would pull an M10
nutsert out of softwood, but if you wanted to do your own plate it
doesn't need to be complicated, take a mending plate or similar, drill
an 11mm hole in it, thread the rod through, whack a nut and big washer
on the back, counterbore the timber and screw the plate on the face
of the timber. In fact, you could do that with a nutsert and the
right washers for belt and braces.