Repairing a bit of blown plaster

[DerbyBorn]

Any suggestions for a simple ready to use filler. I need to dig out an area
of blown plaster - about 12" x 18" and fill it, woodchip paper and paint it
ready for a sale viewing.

Any suggestions for a decent filler? I have some One Coat Plaster but not
sure if this is appropriate to buld up from the bricks to the surface.

[Phil L]

This is what one coat is for, any filler you use will not work directly onto
the bricks.

Also, plaster has a shelf life, if it's out of date, expect it to set before
you've got it on the wall.

[The Natural Philosopher]

if being woodchipped wither gule the plaster back with PVA or rip it out
and use bonding plaster



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <XnsA346A422C6274Tr...@81.171.92.236>,

If the blown plaster is still in place, you might be able to fix it.
Get a syringe from the chemist (without needle), carefully make
some holes through the plaster at the top, and inject diluted PVA,
so it runs down the gap between plaster and wall, and then use a
piece of ply or other flat object to push against the area to keep
it flat and against the wall while the PVA sets, proped up by a piece
of timber or similar leaning against it.

You will still need to polyfiller any cracks around the blown area,
but that's much easier than replastering unless you are already
familiar with plastering.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[stuart noble]

Suck it and see. Worst case is you might need 2 coats with a day or so
in between

[Roger Mills]

On 08/06/2014 16:08, DerbyBorn wrote:

How thick does the plaster need to be to fill the hole? If it's a
similar depth to the thickness of plasterboard, I'd be inclined to glue
a piece of plasterboard in place, and fill round the edges with pollyfilla.

If that's not practical, first apply bonding plaster, and use a straight
piece of wood to get it level with the surrounding plaster. Then, if the
surface isn't smooth enough to take woodchip, apply a very thin layer of
polyfilla and, if necessary, sand it flat when set.

Or, as others have said, if the blown plaster is still in place, inject
some PVA behind it and apply pressure to push it back onto the brickwork.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

[DerbyBorn]

Roger Mills <watt....@gmail.com> wrote in
news:bvk18s...@mid.individual.net:

> On 08/06/2014 16:08, DerbyBorn wrote:
>> Any suggestions for a simple ready to use filler. I need to dig out
>> an area of blown plaster - about 12" x 18" and fill it, woodchip
>> paper and paint it ready for a sale viewing.
>>
>> Any suggestions for a decent filler? I have some One Coat Plaster but
>> not sure if this is appropriate to buld up from the bricks to the
>> surface.
>
> How thick does the plaster need to be to fill the hole? If it's a
> similar depth to the thickness of plasterboard, I'd be inclined to
> glue a piece of plasterboard in place, and fill round the edges with
> pollyfilla.
>
> If that's not practical, first apply bonding plaster, and use a
> straight piece of wood to get it level with the surrounding plaster.
> Then, if the surface isn't smooth enough to take woodchip, apply a
> very thin layer of polyfilla and, if necessary, sand it flat when set.
>
> Or, as others have said, if the blown plaster is still in place,
> inject some PVA behind it and apply pressure to push it back onto the
> brickwork.

The paper is a mess - not sure I could do it neatly enough. The
plasterboard idea is appealing - I have some thin PB.

[meow...@care2.com]

Any filler at all will do it. I've even filled wall holes with rice powder when I ran out once. Seriously, it doesnt matter what sort you use.

* Ones only intended to be applied in very thin layers crack on drying. Applying the next layer fills the cracks ok.


NT

[stuart noble]

I once used dried milk to make a casein paint. Worked beautifully but
stank to high heaven when it got damp