Silicone wax removal from glass
Andrew Gabriel
The garage decided to wax the whole car for me. OK, they didn't ask
and didn't charge for it. I just discovered, driving in the dark and
rain for the first time since, that this included waxing the windscreen,
which of course I can't now see out of in the dark and rain because water
beads on it instead of wetting it.
Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off? I tried washing
with White Spirit, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
I have a nasty recollection that the silicone chemically bonds to the
glass pretty irreversibly, in which case the garage has effectively
destroyed my windscreen.
--
Andrew Gabriel
Consultant Software Engineer
John Burns
> with White Spirit, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
> I have a nasty recollection that the silicone chemically bonds to the
> glass pretty irreversibly, in which case the garage has effectively
> destroyed my windscreen.
Zymol Glas glass cleaner, wonderful stuff. Use with lots of dry towels
though.
--
Who needs a life when you've got Unix? :-)
Email: jo...@unixnerd.demon.co.uk, John G.Burns B.Eng, Bonny Scotland
Web : http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk - The Ultimate BMW Homepage!
Tony Polson
Gabriel) wrote:
>Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off? I tried washing
>with White Spirit, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
Use Ajax. Yes, Ajax. I use Ajax once or twice a year to remove
traffic film. Apply it with a wet sponge or cloth. Keep it off the
paintwork as far as possible and rinse off with plenty of clean water.
Andrew Gabriel
Tony Polson <news....@btinternet.com> writes:
>On 2 Jul 2000 22:55:56 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
>Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off? I tried washing
>>with White Spirit, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
>
>Use Ajax. Yes, Ajax.
Hum, that's a scouring powder - I think I'll give that a miss.
I spoke to a very helpful chap at Triplex/Pilkington. He said that
white spirit should do it but you need a lot to wash it off and not
just spread it round. The other thing he said it that I will probably
need to change the wiper blades as it will be pretty impossible to get
all the silicone off the rubber - I hadn't though of recontamination
of the glass from the wiper blades.
When it stops raining outside, I'll give it another go.
Thomas Prufer
Gabriel) wrote:
>Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off?
I think someone in uk.d-i-y said that regular white toothpaste worked
well, and was in fact recommeded for the purpose by Ford (or some
other large auto co).
Thomas Prufer
Andrew Gabriel
Tony Polson <news....@btinternet.com> writes:
>Yes, it's a "scouring powder". Just like the "scouring powders" that
>are routinely used to *polish* a camera lens, microscope lens,
>spectacle lens, in fact any kind of lens prior to final coating.
>
>Sneer at it if you like, but it not only works, it works well. And if
>you choose to sneer rather than try it, it's your loss, no-one else's.
Sorry Tony, I didn't mean to offend you.
Dave Plowman
Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> I spoke to a very helpful chap at Triplex/Pilkington. He said that
> white spirit should do it but you need a lot to wash it off and not
> just spread it round
I hope it's that easy. Silicone polish on car paintwork makes re-painting
almost impossible, I'm told.
--
* Why do psychics have to ask you for your name? *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Tony Polson
Gabriel) wrote:
>In article <0031ms017kqccoa6f...@4ax.com>,
> Tony Polson <news....@btinternet.com> writes:
>>On 2 Jul 2000 22:55:56 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
>>Gabriel) wrote:
>>
>>>Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off? I tried washing
>>>with White Spirit, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
>>
>>Use Ajax. Yes, Ajax.
>
>Hum, that's a scouring powder - I think I'll give that a miss.
Yes, it's a "scouring powder". Just like the "scouring powders" that
Huge
>In article <8jqht5$e...@cucumber.demon.co.uk>,
> Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>> I spoke to a very helpful chap at Triplex/Pilkington. He said that
>> white spirit should do it but you need a lot to wash it off and not
>> just spread it round
>
>I hope it's that easy. Silicone polish on car paintwork makes re-painting
>almost impossible, I'm told.
Which is why I suggested a degreaser from a paint factor. Removing silicone
polish before repainting is SOP.
--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
The uk.transport FAQ; http://www.huge.org.uk/transport/FAQ.html
[Delete "nospam." to email me]
Dave Plowman
Huge <hu...@huge.nospam.org.uk> wrote:
> >I hope it's that easy. Silicone polish on car paintwork makes
> >re-painting almost impossible, I'm told.
> Which is why I suggested a degreaser from a paint factor. Removing
> silicone polish before repainting is SOP.
Since it was a professional paint sprayer this came from, are you sure
it's that easy?
--
* If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried *
g middleton
wipe on with one cloth and off with another.
do this several times each time with clean clothes.
also wipe your wiper blades or replace them as they to will be
contaminated.Be careful not to splash paint work and try keep away from
rubber seals.
hu...@huge.nospam.org.uk
>In article <8js5gh$8h8$1...@axalotl.demon.co.uk>,
> Huge <hu...@huge.nospam.org.uk> wrote:
>> >I hope it's that easy. Silicone polish on car paintwork makes
>> >re-painting almost impossible, I'm told.
>
>> Which is why I suggested a degreaser from a paint factor. Removing
>> silicone polish before repainting is SOP.
>
>Since it was a professional paint sprayer this came from, are you sure
>it's that easy?
Hmmmmmmmm. Well, the bloke who taught me spraying said so, but I'm happy
to defer to a superior authority.
J.L.E
Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:49d8d099b8...@argonet.co.uk...
> In article <8js5gh$8h8$1...@axalotl.demon.co.uk>,
> Huge <hu...@huge.nospam.org.uk> wrote:
> > >I hope it's that easy. Silicone polish on car paintwork makes
> > >re-painting almost impossible, I'm told.
>
> > Which is why I suggested a degreaser from a paint factor. Removing
> > silicone polish before repainting is SOP.
>
> Since it was a professional paint sprayer this came from, are you sure
> it's that easy?
>
You wont get silicone form Silicone type polish off paint work with just a
degreaser, so that the panel can be re-sprayed with out possible problems.
Getting it off glass is not that easy either.....
The problem is that the silicone fills the microscopic pours and which in
turn stops anything else entering.
--
sca...@MAPSONmadasafish.com
Please note the SPAM trap
Location.........West Sussex. United Kingdom.
Tony Polson
Use cellulose thinners on a car windscreen?
It makes Ajax sound positively benign!
John Smith
screen, slice a bit off as it gets contaminated.Then clean up with glass
cleaner.
Must be a starch thing.
Remember to do your wiper blades.
Tony Polson
<sca...@mapson.madasafish.com> wrote:
>Dave Plowman <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
>news:49d8d099b8...@argonet.co.uk...
>> In article <8js5gh$8h8$1...@axalotl.demon.co.uk>,
>> Huge <hu...@huge.nospam.org.uk> wrote:
>> > >I hope it's that easy. Silicone polish on car paintwork makes
>> > >re-painting almost impossible, I'm told.
>>
>> > Which is why I suggested a degreaser from a paint factor. Removing
>> > silicone polish before repainting is SOP.
>>
>> Since it was a professional paint sprayer this came from, are you sure
>> it's that easy?
>>
>
>You wont get silicone form Silicone type polish off paint work with just a
>degreaser, so that the panel can be re-sprayed with out possible problems.
>Getting it off glass is not that easy either.....
>
>The problem is that the silicone fills the microscopic pours and which in
>turn stops anything else entering.
... which is precisely why toothpaste or Ajax, both mild scourers,
work so well!
J.L.E
Tony Polson <news....@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:1am4ms0gims99l311...@4ax.com...
How the hell do you work that out.......!
Huge
>On Tue, 4 Jul 2000 18:54:24 +0100, "g middleton"
><gl...@gmiddleton.karoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>Try cellulose thinner rather than just a degreaser.
>>wipe on with one cloth and off with another.
>>do this several times each time with clean clothes.
>>also wipe your wiper blades or replace them as they to will be
>>contaminated.Be careful not to splash paint work and try keep away from
>>rubber seals.
>
>Use cellulose thinners on a car windscreen?
Why not? Glass is not exactly soluble in it.
>It makes Ajax sound positively benign!
Never done any mirror grinding, stone polishing or anything similar?
Clive Oldfield
the ink in the print is what does it.
Failing that, and considering you are contemplating spending many hours
trying to clean off the silicone, why not consider paying your 50 quid and
getting the screen replaced by Autoglass or equiv? Was it pitted to start
with? You might not have to resort to hitting it with a hammer yourself...
It's amazing how much difference a new screen makes driving in the
dark/rain!
Clive.
Tony Williams
Tony Polson <news....@btinternet.com> wrote:
> ... which is precisely why toothpaste or Ajax, both mild scourers,
> work so well!
Yes, when I had a perennial smearing problem on
the Sierra windscreen the factory recommended
a good clean with toothpaste and to replace the
(possibly contaminated) wipers. Certainly worked.
--
Tony Williams.
Andrew Gabriel
blades seems to have done it. The Triplex/Pilkington guy was
right about recontamination from the wipers.
In article <3962FF3E...@nouk.ibm.comspam>,
Clive Oldfield <oldf...@nouk.ibm.comspam> writes:
> Failing that, and considering you are contemplating spending many hours
> trying to clean off the silicone, why not consider paying your 50 quid and
> getting the screen replaced by Autoglass or equiv? Was it pitted to start
> with? You might not have to resort to hitting it with a hammer yourself...
Well, it's an electric windscreen and was otherwise in perfect
condition, so replacement would probably have been rather
expensive and I hoped unnecessary. I didn't fancy a long argument
with the garage about who was going to pay for it either. They
tell me they are investigating how they came to wax a windscreen.
Thanks for all the responses. I had started out thinking this
was probably impossible (I recall being told as much some 20 years
ago).
--
Andrew Gabriel
Dave Plowman
Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> They tell me they are investigating how they came to wax a windscreen.
IIRC, you don't use automatic car wash machines. If you use the wax
programme on these you get the same problem. My secondhand car had a very
'smeary' screen when bought - I cleaned it with petrol followed by
Safeclene.
--
* For every action, there is an equal and opposite criticism *
Paul Mc Cann
news....@btinternet.com says...> >In article <0031ms017kqccoa6f...@4ax.com>,
> > Tony Polson <news....@btinternet.com> writes:
> >>On 2 Jul 2000 22:55:56 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
> >>Gabriel) wrote:
> >>
> >>>Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off? I tried washing
> >>>with White Spirit, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
> >>
> >>Use Ajax. Yes, Ajax.
> >
> >Hum, that's a scouring powder - I think I'll give that a miss.
>
> Yes, it's a "scouring powder". Just like the "scouring powders" that
> are routinely used to *polish* a camera lens, microscope lens,
> spectacle lens, in fact any kind of lens prior to final coating.
>
> Sneer at it if you like, but it not only works, it works well. And if
> you choose to sneer rather than try it, it's your loss, no-one else's.
>
>
>
time and could find no satisfactory solution. I lost two wind screens
within a 12 month period and was meticulous with what I allowed near the
new ones, all to no avail. Eventually I put it down, rightly or wrongly,
to the free car wash my garage inflicts on me every time I let my car
near them.
So I'll be trying the Ajax, and the cellulose thinners.
I can tell you that strong Clearalex solution doesn't do it, nor does
Rain X, nor Jif, Fairy washing liquid or even the fitting of new wiper
blades, tried them all, and acetone and white spirit and petrol and
methylated spirits and boiling water all to no avail.
So thanks for the tip to the man whose sig always reminds me of Harold
Wilson and Ganex overcoats. (Work it out ! Yes I know the spelling is
different !)
--
Paul Mc Cann
Arbub
Thomas Prufer wrote in message
<28o1msg0t6u5v8ctd...@4ax.com>...
>On 2 Jul 2000 22:55:56 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
>Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>Has anyone got any ideas for getting the silicone off?
>
>well, and was in fact recommeded for the purpose by Ford (or some
>other large auto co).
IIRC Eucryl Smokers Toothpowder used to do the trick
(Don't know if they still make the stuff - are there enough smokers left!?)
GT
Andrew Gabriel
Well, you're right. Did I say that some time? I guess so :-)
>If you use the wax
>programme on these you get the same problem.
Well, that's one of the reasons I don't use them, although
having now found out how to recover the situation, I might
reevaluate...
Vistula
<oldf...@nouk.ibm.comspam> wrote:
>I heard using scrunched up newspaper to clean windshields worked - believe
>the ink in the print is what does it.
>Failing that, and considering you are contemplating spending many hours
>trying to clean off the silicone, why not consider paying your 50 quid and
>getting the screen replaced by Autoglass or equiv? Was it pitted to start
>with? You might not have to resort to hitting it with a hammer yourself...
>It's amazing how much difference a new screen makes driving in the
>dark/rain!
If you do this through your insurance, technically it doesn't count as
a claim. However I often wonder whether premiums of people who have
had to do this are increased as a result. Or, if you change insurers,
whether this has to be disclosed to the new insurer.
Stuart Grant
> If you do this through your insurance, technically it doesn't count as
> a claim. However I often wonder whether premiums of people who have
> had to do this are increased as a result.
>
Stuart Grant
Stuart Grant
> No, but everyone else's are.
> Stuart Grant
>
pretty well funds the entire replacement windscreen industry.
Stuart Grant
Paul Mc Cann
18 mths and replacement cost running at about £650 each time.
--
Paul Mc Cann
Stuart Grant
> for which I am eternally grateful having lost two windscreens in the last
> 18 mths and replacement cost running at about £650 each time.
> --
>
couple of years ago - looked around and all the windows were intact, I
heaved too great a sigh of relief and it began raining granulated glass.
Over £400 on a Mk 2 Cavalier - more than windscreen and rear window
combined! As you say, thank god for insurance.
Stuart Grant
Andrew Gabriel
Stuart Grant <s...@cwcom.net> writes:
>What gets me is the cost of factory sunroofs. I heard a hell if a bang a
>couple of years ago - looked around and all the windows were intact, I
>heaved too great a sigh of relief and it began raining granulated glass.
>Over £400 on a Mk 2 Cavalier - more than windscreen and rear window
>combined! As you say, thank god for insurance.
Many years ago, my parents had a DAF 66 (model later became Volvo 66).
It was stolen, and discovered a few days later with all its windows
broken. That wrote it off - the cost of replacing all the windows
was something like 2-3 grand. The windscreen was by far the cheapest.
The car was worth about 1.5 grand at the time.
Tony Bryer
> Many years ago, my parents had a DAF 66 (model later became Volvo 66).
> It was stolen, and discovered a few days later with all its windows
> broken. That wrote it off - the cost of replacing all the windows
> was something like 2-3 grand. The windscreen was by far the cheapest.
> The car was worth about 1.5 grand at the time.
I think that DAF must have made their money on parts. I had a 66 estate
which was a joy to drive. When I was in Norfolk on holiday the battery
suddenly failed. Now an innocent might think that a small obscure Dutch
car company would just fit a Ford Escort battery and be done with it,
but no. They had their own uniquely sized battery made which of course
you could not buy at places like Halfords, only at franchised dealers,
and charged accordingly.
Some while later it failed its MoT because of cracks in the steering
wheel spokes near the hub - a common fault apparently. When the dealer
told me what a replacement wheel would cost my response was that I could
go out and buy a leather wheel from an accessory shop for half the
price. His reply was "I should: that's what everyone else does, and is
why I don't stock the plastic wheels anyway". Even then the column
splining was non-standard so I could buy the wheel at a shop but had to
send off for the hub.
It has to be said that I did not really look after this car as I should
have done, but when it came to sell it I set about cleaning and
polishing it, sorted out various niggles and it looked so good and drove
so well that I was very sad to part with it, spares prices
notwithstanding.
Tony Bryer
Andrew Gabriel
Tony Bryer <to...@sda.co.uk> writes:
> In article <8kar9b$3...@cucumber.demon.co.uk>, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
>> Many years ago, my parents had a DAF 66 (model later became Volvo 66).
>> It was stolen, and discovered a few days later with all its windows
>> broken. That wrote it off - the cost of replacing all the windows
>> was something like 2-3 grand. The windscreen was by far the cheapest.
>> The car was worth about 1.5 grand at the time.
>
> I think that DAF must have made their money on parts.
The cost of parts and servicing all went up significantly when
DAF sold out to Volvo, and Volvo garages took them on.
> I had a 66 estate which was a joy to drive.
Yes. You got great acceleration by slamming your foot to the floor
and just letting the variomatic elastic bands change gear ratio as
the car speeded up - I think it was a brilliant scheme.
The frightening thing was it went just as fast backwards :-o
Also, before Volvo changed it, you had to start it in gear and
not rev it, otherwise the centrifugal cluch kicked in and you were
off. There were a few cases of people servicing it, head under bonnet,
who rev'ed it up and the car then shot off into them. Volvo added
a neutral gear position, previously there was a small gap between
forward and reverse which you weren't really meant to use.
--
Andrew Gabriel
Dave Plowman
Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Also, before Volvo changed it, you had to start it in gear and
> not rev it, otherwise the centrifugal cluch kicked in and you were
> off. There were a few cases of people servicing it, head under bonnet,
> who rev'ed it up and the car then shot off into them. Volvo added
> a neutral gear position, previously there was a small gap between
> forward and reverse which you weren't really meant to use.
On the 33 van this was a serious problem as it probably had the worst
brakes of any vehicle, including Austin Sevens, that I have ever driven.
--
* TEAMWORK...means never having to take all the blame yourself *
J.L.E
Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8kcjf5$qcu$1...@new-usenet.uk.sun.com...
> In article <VA.00000ca...@sda.co.uk>,
> Tony Bryer <to...@sda.co.uk> writes:
> > In article <8kar9b$3...@cucumber.demon.co.uk>, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> >> Many years ago, my parents had a DAF 66 (model later became Volvo
<snip>
>
> Also, before Volvo changed it, you had to start it in gear and
> not rev it, otherwise the centrifugal cluch kicked in and you were
> off. There were a few cases of people servicing it, head under bonnet,
> who rev'ed it up and the car then shot off into them. Volvo added
> a neutral gear position, previously there was a small gap between
> forward and reverse which you weren't really meant to use.
>
It wasn't that safe in Volvo days either, when the gear lever gate became
worn. (Why the hell they never fitted an inhibitor / warning light switch I
will never understand) We had one come backwards off the ramp when rev'ed
up once, the only trouble was that the car was 6ft up in the air at the
time, with someone inside and another under it looking for an exhaust leak
(both were quite shaken up..). Oh, and the owner was in reception waiting
for the car................ :~(
J.L.E
Tony Bryer <to...@sda.co.uk> wrote in message
news:VA.00000ca...@sda.co.uk...
> In article <8kar9b$3...@cucumber.demon.co.uk>, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> > Many years ago, my parents had a DAF 66 (model later became Volvo 66).
> > broken. That wrote it off - the cost of replacing all the windows
> > was something like 2-3 grand. The windscreen was by far the cheapest.
> > The car was worth about 1.5 grand at the time.
>
> which was a joy to drive. When I was in Norfolk on holiday the battery
> suddenly failed. Now an innocent might think that a small obscure Dutch
> car company would just fit a Ford Escort battery and be done with it,
> but no. They had their own uniquely sized battery made which of course
> you could not buy at places like Halfords, only at franchised dealers,
> and charged accordingly.
>
But you could get those batteries from independent battery Co's. I must have
seen and handled hundreds of them in my early years in the trade....... :~(
Although they carried a price premium, IIRC, it was not a great one.
Out of interest the battery that / did / carry a price premium that was
totally beyond reason was the battery that was fitted to some of the 12 volt
VW Beatles, it had a spade terminal for a 6 volt taping. We used to advise
people to fit the standard battery[1] as the 6v feed was only used for WV's
own tuning equipment, even so, some people insisted on having the / right /
battery for the car but never had the car VW serviced...............
[1] the battery with the 6 volt tapping was the same inside as the one we
used to fit, indeed the case was also, except that a blanking plug had to be
knocked out of the top so that the terminal could be fitted before the top
could be glued on.
Stuart Grant
> Yes. You got great acceleration by slamming your foot to the floor
> and just letting the variomatic elastic bands change gear ratio as
> the car speeded up - I think it was a brilliant scheme.
>
road, then automatically took my foot off, pulled back the gear lever
and replaced my foot.....
Miraculously, it seemed to suffer no damage bar a pound or two of
rubber.
Stuart Grant
Dave Plowman
Stuart Grant <s...@cwcom.net> wrote:
> I test drove one once after balancing the wheels. I raced away up the
> road, then automatically took my foot off, pulled back the gear lever
> and replaced my foot.....
> Miraculously, it seemed to suffer no damage bar a pound or two of
> rubber.
Borg-Warner used to run a repair course for mechanics. This was one of the
most common questions - what happen if you select reverse at speed. The
answer on their 'donkey' Cortina was that a half shaft usually broke - not
the 'box. There was a spate of unexplained accidents involving Jaguar XK-S
on motorways. What they thing was happening was people manually selecting
second to overtake, and hitting reverse when meaning to go back to drive -
you could do this on the Jag design of shift. This locked the rear wheels,
the natural reaction was to brake, and unless you braked very heavily to
match the locked rear wheels the car would spin.
--
* There's no place like www.home.com *
Steve
insurance jobs and non-insurance jobs. You can save yourself maybe 50%.
When I came to replace my cracked windscreen a few years back I didn't
get charged the excess for it by the insurance company 'cos I managed to
save them about 90 quid.
In article <VA.00000af4.01152a80@one>,
s...@cwcom.net wrote:
> What gets me is the cost of factory sunroofs. I heard a hell if a bang
a
> couple of years ago - looked around and all the windows were intact, I
> heaved too great a sigh of relief and it began raining granulated
glass.
> Over £400 on a Mk 2 Cavalier - more than windscreen and rear window
> combined! As you say, thank god for insurance.
> Stuart Grant
>
>
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.