How to remove chrome plate from Copper pipe?
Nightdrive
Needto connect chrome plated Cu pipe to speedfit. Speedfit say I must
removed the chrome for the connection. Presumeably as chrome is quite hard,
and the stainless gripper things inside the speedfit connection can't grip
it properly.
It's a pig to remove though. I've been at it for ages with wet or dry paper.
Am I missing a trick of the trade?
All help appreciated
Al Reynolds
news:3f2a1b8e$0$15036$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
Some people use a compression fitting to convert the
chrome to normal copper, then speedfit from there.
Al
David Cameron
"Nightdrive" <night...@supanet.com> wrote in message
news:3f2a1b8e$0$15036$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
Push the fitting on to the pipe, and mark insertion depth on the pipe with
a Stanley knife.Remove the fitting and scrape off the chrome plating with
the Stanley knife.
The same technique can be used when soldering on chrome plated Cu.
HTH,
Dave
Derrick Crane
Wow. I knew you couldn't fit speedfit connectors to stainless steel
but I thought chrome-plated Cu was OK. I made one connection like this
and the fitting had no problem biting through the chrome plate. It's
perfectly tight and as it's only 3ft under the tank there's very
little pressure on it but thanks for alerting me to this.
Derrick
Nightdrive
"Derrick Crane" <ery...@jhgva.com> wrote in message
news:0mvkiv47fqcoctcna...@4ax.com...
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a go (onsome old pipe first!)
Greg
Nightdrive
It's probably just speedfit covering their backsides. I suppose it depends
as you say on pressure, and probably how well the joint is supported (is it
trying to pull out or bend sideways)
I suspect removing the chrome has it's own problems - any score marks would
compromise the seal and would probably need polishing out.
John Stumbles
>
> "Derrick Crane" <ery...@jhgva.com> wrote in message
> news:0mvkiv47fqcoctcna...@4ax.com...
> > On Fri, 1 Aug 2003 14:58:59 +0100, "David Cameron"
> > <dave@NO_SPAM.please.ecclehill.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >"Nightdrive" <night...@supanet.com> wrote in message
> > >news:3f2a1b8e$0$15036$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
> > >> Subject says it all.
> > >> Needto connect chrome plated Cu pipe to speedfit. Speedfit say I must
> > >> removed the chrome for the connection. Presumeably as chrome is quite
> > >hard,
> > >> and the stainless gripper things inside the speedfit connection can't
> grip
> > >> it properly.
---8<---
> It's probably just speedfit covering their backsides. I suppose it depends
> as you say on pressure, and probably how well the joint is supported (is
it
> trying to pull out or bend sideways)
I have had a speedfit connection to chromed copper pipe pull out under mains
pressure.
--
John Stumbles
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
-+
No Rules, OK
Andrew McKay
<postmaster@[127.0.0.1]> wrote:
>I have had a speedfit connection to chromed copper pipe pull out under mains
>pressure.
I imagine you are really referring to the copper pipe pushing out
under mains pressure (rather than pull out). Not that it matters.
Sounds like a good reason to be using compression or solder joints
when dealing with mains pressure.
Andrew
Do you need a handyman service? Check out our
web site at http://www.handymac.co.uk
John Stumbles
> On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 00:13:25 +0100, "John Stumbles"
> <postmaster@[127.0.0.1]> wrote:
>
> >I have had a speedfit connection to chromed copper pipe pull out under mains
> >pressure.
>
> I imagine you are really referring to the copper pipe pushing out
> under mains pressure (rather than pull out). Not that it matters.
Push or pull? - it's relative to your point of view :-)
(You're right though I suppose 'push' is what I really meant!)
> Sounds like a good reason to be using compression or solder joints
> when dealing with mains pressure.
No, Speedfit (and Hep2O etc) are fine when used correctly at mains
pressure. From my own enquiries to JG they say "We recommend testing
central
heating pipework 2 bar for 10 minutes and 10 bar for 10 minutes" and
mains is typically around 4 bar. It's simply that chromed and
stainless steel pipe are not suitable for use with these types of
connectors where the integrity of the connection is obtained through
steel grab rings biting into the material of the pipe.
(Actually compression is unsuitable for very high pressures e.g. water
supplies at the bottom of tower blocks supplied by storage tanks at
the top.)
cheers
John Stumbles
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
Andrew McKay
Stumbles) wrote:
>No, Speedfit (and Hep2O etc) are fine when used correctly at mains
>pressure. From my own enquiries to JG they say "We recommend testing
>central heating pipework 2 bar for 10 minutes and 10 bar for 10 minutes" and
>mains is typically around 4 bar.
Stupid question time I guess - how do you go about introducing extra
pressure to a water mains in order to carry out this testing? ;)
>It's simply that chromed and
>stainless steel pipe are not suitable for use with these types of
>connectors where the integrity of the connection is obtained through
>steel grab rings biting into the material of the pipe.
That I can understand.
Andrew Gabriel
Andrew McKay <E-7B777...@kazmax.co.uk> writes:
> On 5 Aug 2003 15:27:17 -0700, john.s...@ntlworld.com (John
> Stumbles) wrote:
>
>>No, Speedfit (and Hep2O etc) are fine when used correctly at mains
>>pressure. From my own enquiries to JG they say "We recommend testing
>>central heating pipework 2 bar for 10 minutes and 10 bar for 10 minutes" and
>>mains is typically around 4 bar.
>
> Stupid question time I guess - how do you go about introducing extra
> pressure to a water mains in order to carry out this testing? ;)
I pressurise pipework with air before connecting it up to the
water. You can use a bicycle pump and leak detector spray to find
leaks. The air leaks out much faster than water would through
the same leak, so if it's air tight, it will certainly be water
tight at the same pressure. Also, the air leak doesn't damage
anything else, and doesn't wet the pipework making soldering of
joints harder. One of the vertical cycle pumps (looking like a
detonator) can easily reach 4 bar, although if that includes
something like a radiator, you'll have to be fit and it will
take a while. You can use a compressor too. Just beware of the
potential energy you store up in a radiator pumped up to even
2 bar, and try to resist the temptation to see how far you can
fire the pushfit endcap you temporarily fitted to hold the
pressure in, at least without goggles and ear defenders ;-)
--
Andrew Gabriel
Andrew McKay
Gabriel) wrote:
>I pressurise pipework with air before connecting it up to the
>water. You can use a bicycle pump and leak detector spray to find
>leaks.
Gosh, I'm learning!
How do you make the connection between the pipework and pump? These
arrangements typically don't have a convenient tyre valve :)
Andrew Gabriel
Andrew McKay <E-7B777...@kazmax.co.uk> writes:
> On 6 Aug 2003 08:31:07 GMT, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
> Gabriel) wrote:
>
>>I pressurise pipework with air before connecting it up to the
>>water. You can use a bicycle pump and leak detector spray to find
>>leaks.
>
> Gosh, I'm learning!
>
> How do you make the connection between the pipework and pump? These
> arrangements typically don't have a convenient tyre valve :)
You can buy an adapter with a tyre valve and a 15mm pushfit
connector, and a pressure guage, intended specifically for
this purpose (and pretty useless for anything else;-).
It's worth buying a few 15mm pushfit endcaps so you can
create sealed sections of pipework to test, and if you have
any 22mm pipework, a 15 to 22mm pushfit adapter and sone 22mm
pushfit endcaps too.
--
Andrew Gabriel
Hepworth Plumbing Products Team
> On 5 Aug 2003 15:27:17 -0700, john.s...@ntlworld.com (John
> Stumbles) wrote:
>
> >No, Speedfit (and Hep2O etc) are fine when used correctly at mains
> >pressure. From my own enquiries to JG they say "We recommend testing
> >central heating pipework 2 bar for 10 minutes and 10 bar for 10 minutes" and
> >mains is typically around 4 bar.
>
> Stupid question time I guess - how do you go about introducing extra
> pressure to a water mains in order to carry out this testing? ;)
>
in the Water Regulations (and BS6700) is to use a hydraulic test pump.
These are available at plumbers' merchants, but are expensive to buy.
Test pumps can also be hired by the day from hire shop such as HSS.
The practical requirements for testing a Hep2O are here: -
http://www.hep20.co.uk/v2Otesting1.cfm
The test methods (there are two alternatives for plastics systems) for
Water Regulations testing are in para. 12 here: -
http://www.hmso.gov.uk/si/si1999/99114802.htm
In normal circumstances a test to 1.5 times working pressure will
suffice. Working pressure is usually defined as normal incoming mains
pressure after any pressure reducing valve that may be fitted.
The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team
--
Tel: +44 (0)1709 856 300 |Hepworth Plumbing Products
Fax: +44 (0)1709 856 301 |Edlington Lane, Edlington
Email: in...@hepworthplumbing.co.uk |Doncaster, UK
http://www.hepworthplumbing.co.uk |DN12 1BY