plastic pushfit plumbing reliability
Tim Decker
shower and sink behind a false wall with no access, as this will be
tiled over.
I am ok with doing traditional solder plumbing, but know it will be
much faster if I use push fit fittings. However I am concerned at
having these in an inaccessible place in case of a failure.
What does the group think?
Jim Alexander
"Tim Decker" <deck...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1c4ab075-7a5c-4bd2...@w34g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
If you are OK with one method and not OK with another method I suggest you
employ the method you are OK with.
As for plastic push fit plumbing reliability I don't believe there is a
reliability issue for competently made joints.
Jim A
Lobster
If they're done properly (eg, not using a hacksaw to chop the pipe...)
they should be completely reliable but I have to say that personally I'd
feel happier with soldered fittings behind a false wall. But soldered
fittings can fail too if not done properly (eg from flux corrosion)
If you google this group you'll find a wealth of info on this (though a
lot of it relates to hacksaw abuse by a certain member of this group...)
David
Alan
Alexander <nos...@nospam.com> wrote
>As for plastic push fit plumbing reliability I don't believe there is a
>reliability issue for competently made joints.
>
I the building in which I work they seem to have problems with a push
fit leaking around once every nine moths or so. This is after a couple
failures after first occupying the new building and the maintenance
department spending a weekend double checking all accessible
connections. There are probably thousands of such connections in the
building so the probability of failure is still quite small and there is
no guarantee that the joints were made in a competent way in the first
place.
--
Alan
news2006 {at} amac {dot} f2s {dot} com
Doctor Drivel
"Tim Decker" <deck...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1c4ab075-7a5c-4bd2...@w34g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
Stick with copper and solder.
Doctor Drivel
"Jim Alexander" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Ffv6j.14360$kt3....@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
You have got to be kidding!!!!!
Doctor Drivel
"Lobster" <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4kv6j.3096$Hc3....@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
> Tim Decker wrote:
>> I am just redoing my shower room. I will be having plumbing for both
>> shower and sink behind a false wall with no access, as this will be
>> tiled over.
>>
>> I am ok with doing traditional solder plumbing, but know it will be
>> much faster if I use push fit fittings. However I am concerned at
>> having these in an inaccessible place in case of a failure.
>>
>> What does the group think?
>
> If they're done properly (eg, not using a hacksaw to chop the pipe...)
> they should be completely reliable
Wow another one!!!!
kent
> "Lobster" <davidlobsterpot...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Doctor D, please tell us more about your reservations.
fred
<1c4ab075-7a5c-4bd2...@w34g2000hsg.googlegroups.com>, Tim
Decker <deck...@gmail.com> writes
jointed directly at the shower valve with a compression fitting, that
way you only have one possible point of leak.
If you are talking about using copper pipe with plastic pushfit
fittings, I wouldn't, I always use a joint that has the same or greater
strength that the pipe to be joined.
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla
crb
> Stick with copper and solder.
I have no personal experience of using push fits - I have only used
solder and compression joints - but a relative who runs a plumbing/
electrical contractors business told me recently that he has had bad
experiences with JG Speedfit connectors on a block of flats he
plumbed. He was sure that they were done in accordance with the
instructions - he did some himself, others were done by trusted
employees. The call-back rate for leaks was unnacceptable to both the
occupiers and himself. He said he will never use JG Speedfit again,
and is wary of all push-fits now, despite the speed (and therefore
cost) advantages.
CRB
Andy Hall
He did say competently.
Andy Hall
Here we go again.....
Sit back and wait for the entertainment. The old ones are the good ones.
Lobster
>
> If you are talking about using copper pipe with plastic pushfit
> fittings, I wouldn't, I always use a joint that has the same or greater
> strength that the pipe to be joined.
Why would a plastic pushfit fitting be any more reliable when fitted to
a plastic pipe than a copper one? I'd have thought that intuitiuvely it
would be the reverse.
Incidentally, as a separate issue in general do people consider copper
pushfits to be any better than plastic, or is the difference just cosmetic?
David
John Stumbles
I've used plastic pipe for showers etc even in "inaccessible"[1]
locations. I'd make the pipe runs continuous with no joins from somewhere
accessible to the shower fittings, and pressure test it all before
covering over and tiling.
You might like to look at
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Installing_a_Bar-type_Shower_Mixer_Valve
[1] nothing's inaccessible if you have a large enough hammer :-)
--
John Stumbles
Blamestorming
Sitting around in a group, discussing why a deadline was missed
or a project failed, and who was responsible.
fred
<davidlobs...@hotmail.com> writes
>fred wrote:
>>
>> If you are talking about using copper pipe with plastic pushfit
>> fittings, I wouldn't, I always use a joint that has the same or greater
>> strength that the pipe to be joined.
>
>Why would a plastic pushfit fitting be any more reliable when fitted to
>a plastic pipe than a copper one? I'd have thought that intuitiuvely it
>would be the reverse.
>
pushfit coupling, then apply stress to the length by bending. The
plastic joint will see all the stress and will ultimately leak or break.
Do the same with plastic pipe and the bending stress will be distributed
throughout the pipe and joint so it is less likely to fail.
I'm not saying people go about bending and stressing joints
intentionally but I think it's better practice to have a joint that is
matched in strength to the material it is joining.
>Incidentally, as a separate issue in general do people consider copper
>pushfits to be any better than plastic, or is the difference just cosmetic?
>
Never used them myself, if I'm joining copper it will be by soldering.
Jim Alexander
"crb" <clive...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
news:ab483282-74fc-4a07...@i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
dismount the coupling is useful because I'm not sure of the impact of not
using the optional collect clips or (now) the pipe support sleeves with
secondary O rings. In a sense if they are not needed why are they included
in the range? But I would also expect any plumber choosing to use Speedfit
over Hep (say) to also have a view on collet clip (and now secondary o-ring)
usage. Without collet clips there is definately more lateral pipe movement
possible with Speedfit than with Hep. Pex pipe is also stiffer than Polyb.
Theoretically both these reasons could increase the possibility of
distortion on the O ring - but only where that results from inadequate
clipping.
Where there is more than one leak in a single installation there must be a
systemic reason. I would have expected a competent plumber to have
identified what the systemic reason was when inspected on call-back. I
would never exclude a product quality control issue but it wouldn't be my
first suspicion.
Jim A
Lobster
> You might like to look at
> http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Installing_a_Bar-type_Shower_Mixer_Valve
That's very useful. I was looking at the installation for the solid
wall just now, and trying to work out what happened to the wooden plate
- was it skimmed over or something...? Then I realised that presumably
it's only a template and is removed once the plaster is set, right?
Might be worth clarifying in the wiki wotsit?!
David
nightjar
"Tim Decker" <deck...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1c4ab075-7a5c-4bd2...@w34g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
The good thing about plastic pipe is that, as it comes in 25m rolls and can
be curved, with careful design, you shouldn't need to put any fittings in
inaccessible positions. I've done a fair bit of my house in it without any
problems over several years. However, I would recommend: (1) use Speedfit
Super Seal inserts. They are superior to the DIY shed look-alikes. (2) Buy a
proper plastic pipe cutter. The preparation of the ends is vital and they
can fail if you don't do it properly. (3) Make sure that the ends are fully
pushed home into the fitting and that the pipe is not under tension when
fitted.
Colin Bignell
TheOldFellow
I've used Polyplumb, Speedfit and Hep2O without any problems, but I
would not fit a joint where it could not be serviced under any
circumstances, not even with copper (OK, maybe a soldered bend just
before a wall exit.) I would never put a push-fit or compression where
I couldn't service it.
The keys, I think, with the plastic systems is:
1) the pressure test to 6 bar - this sets the stainless steel teeth
into the pipe walls and checks that the o-ring is seated. But for that
you need a pressure test pump (£90) ;)
2) a clean 90 degree cut - on an insertion mark. So you need the
proper cutter. I re-mark the insertion mark with a CD pen, for EVERY
joint.
3) Careful, straight insertion, to the marked depth.
4) The proper, recommended, insert.
I'm not sure copper is as good as lead either, Doc. But on second
thoughts: carved elm pipes have been used for centuries, so maybe that's
the way to go.
R.
Lobster
One other point - to which I'd like to know the answer myself... in the
hollow-wall fitting, where you have the pipework protruding from the
tiles, what is the preferred method of sealing to prevent water getting
through - do you fill the space around the pipework with sealant so it's
effectively watertight before the bezels are fitted? Or are you meant
to seal the bezels to the wall?
David
(whose ensuite shower valve has been cloaked by a flap of polythene for
several years now waiting for a round tuit...)
Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tim Decker <deck...@gmail.com>
saying something like:
>I am ok with doing traditional solder plumbing, but know it will be
>much faster if I use push fit fittings. However I am concerned at
>having these in an inaccessible place in case of a failure.
>
>What does the group think?
I've used plenty of pushfit with no problems, but if it's actually
inaccessible I've tried to avoid fittings at all in that space. If a
fitting is unavoidable, I'd use solder fit.
--
Dave
John Rumm
> One other point - to which I'd like to know the answer myself... in the
> hollow-wall fitting, where you have the pipework protruding from the
> tiles, what is the preferred method of sealing to prevent water getting
> through - do you fill the space around the pipework with sealant so it's
> effectively watertight before the bezels are fitted? Or are you meant
> to seal the bezels to the wall?
I do both...
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
John Stumbles
> That's very useful. I was looking at the installation for the solid
> wall just now, and trying to work out what happened to the wooden plate
> - was it skimmed over or something...? Then I realised that presumably
> it's only a template and is removed once the plaster is set, right?
> Might be worth clarifying in the wiki wotsit?!
Thanks: I've attempted to do that now. Maybe you'd like to check that what
I've written clarifies the point?
--
John Stumbles
This sig intentionally left blank
John Stumbles
> One other point - to which I'd like to know the answer myself... in the
> hollow-wall fitting, where you have the pipework protruding from the
> tiles, what is the preferred method of sealing to prevent water getting
> through - do you fill the space around the pipework with sealant so it's
> effectively watertight before the bezels are fitted? Or are you meant
> to seal the bezels to the wall?
Yes, you can do that. That's probably the best way. You can seal the
bezels to the wall as well or instead.
--
John Stumbles
Ohnosecond
Instant in time when you realise that you've just made a BIG mistake.
Lobster
David
Doctor Drivel
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message news:475aa983@qaanaaq...
Matt, he still has to be kidding.
Doctor Drivel
"kent" <kenk...@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:0853cf93-f29a-44df...@w56g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
The pipe is OK, it is the pushfit fittings. Use plastic pipe with "good"
quality brass compression fittings like Conex. Even then I have seen
Speedfit pipe expand so much it pulled itself out of the fitting and large
leak emerged. Problems with plastic are legendary and professionals avoid
and only use when necessary. New builds use it to stop the Pikeys stealing
the copper.
Failures tend to catastrophic with a whole open end pouring out and ceilings
coming down.
Use copper with soldered joints and plastic on;only when it is easy, like
threading through. "Don't use pushfit fittings", brass or plastic. Plastic
also looks awful when surface mounted.
In short, avoid, and use only when you "need" to.
Doctor Drivel
"crb" <clive...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
news:ab483282-74fc-4a07...@i29g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
It is not that fast to install as the pipe needs more clips than copper.
There should be no stress on the fittings. Also testing of the pipes takes
time too.
Doctor Drivel
> Where there is more than one leak in a single installation there must be a
> systemic reason. I would have expected a competent plumber to have
> identified what the systemic reason was when inspected on call-back. I
> would never exclude a product quality control issue but it wouldn't be my
> first suspicion.
I know of a few sites where Hep2O is used and the average failure is one
fitting per house on testing the first fix. Some have none others more.
Even after weeks and after second fix, a fitting will fail when the owner is
living in the house or on second fix. Grab rings have failed without any
reason. The expansion of the pipe puts great stress on the joints, so lots
off slack in the pipe run is advisable. Failures tend to be more with hot
pipes rather than cold.
Jim Alexander
"Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:fjj45g$rlh$1...@aioe.org...
>
> "Jim Alexander" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:kqz6j.14884$kt3....@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
>> Where there is more than one leak in a single installation there must be
>> a systemic reason. I would have expected a competent plumber to have
>> identified what the systemic reason was when inspected on call-back. I
>> would never exclude a product quality control issue but it wouldn't be my
>> first suspicion.
>
> I know of a few sites where Hep2O is used and the average failure is one
> fitting per house on testing the first fix. Some have none others more.
> Even after weeks and after second fix, a fitting will fail when the owner
> is living in the house or on second fix. Grab rings have failed without
> any reason.
or perhaps because of squinty roughly cut pipe ends.
>The expansion of the pipe puts great stress on the joints, so lots off
>slack in the pipe run is advisable.
Nonsense. The only thing that is adviseable is clipping in accordance with
the manufacturers recommendations. The stress bit is complete bollocks
too. Yes there is expansion on heating but stress cannot increase
dramatically because of the inherent flexibility of the installation..
That's just physics.
Jim A
Ian_m
news:1qkll39tf5r8v6n33...@4ax.com...
Well I talked with the boss of the plumbing firm that fitted all 192 houses
on my estate, all done with Osma Gold push fit and plastic about failure
rate. (he was back to inspect a rising main at the neighbours that had a pin
hole leak flooding their kitchen). His opinions and advice were:
- Failure rate is 0%, he has never seen a correcly installed Osma Gold
fitting fail in service.
- Failure rate of correctly installed copper joints is 0%.
- Failure of incorrectly fitted Osma Gold is during first pressurisation.
- Failure of incorrectly soldered copper is many years after installation
when the excess flux washes or corrodes away and joint leaks.
- Most common leak in the 192 properties was in tap connector compression
fittings usually due to limited access whilst fitting.
- All "customer visible" pipe work must be copper (ie in cupboards,
connecting to toilets etc), as plastic is prone to physical damage.
- All his workers keep the Osma Gold fittings in their shipping bags until
needed.
- Correct cutting tool must be used.
- Silicone grease as per manufacturers instructions must be used.
I extensively replumbed my kitchen whilst the kitchen ceiling was down and
despite massive replumbing of cold, hot and CH pipwork had not one issue.
The hint about use either the pipe marks or use a marker pen to make your
own marks to gauge push fit depth is the most useful. Also using the correct
cutting tool makes the job trivially easy.
The Medway Handyman
> - Silicone grease as per manufacturers instructions must be used.
>
Not heard about that Ian? Any more info please?
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257
Andy Hall
<davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> said:
> Ian_m wrote:
>
>> - Silicone grease as per manufacturers instructions must be used.
>>
>
> Not heard about that Ian? Any more info please?
Making sure that there is adequate lubrication before insertion is
important. Some fittings such as JG do have some silicone grease
around the O-ring. Otherwise you can buy bottles of the liquid
variety from Wickes and others.
The Medway Handyman
> On 2007-12-10 21:05:50 +0000, "The Medway Handyman"
> <davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> said:
>
>> Ian_m wrote:
>>
>>> - Silicone grease as per manufacturers instructions must be used.
>>>
>>
>> Not heard about that Ian? Any more info please?
>
> Making sure that there is adequate lubrication before insertion is
> important.
Oooh Errr Missus :-)
Fnarr! Fnarr! Warf! Warf!
Frank Erskine
wrote:
>Well I talked with the boss of the plumbing firm that fitted all 192 houses
>on my estate, all done with Osma Gold push fit and plastic about failure
>rate. (he was back to inspect a rising main at the neighbours that had a pin
>hole leak flooding their kitchen). His opinions and advice were:
>
<snip>
>- Correct cutting tool must be used.
What - not a hacksaw?
--
Frank Erskine
Doctor Drivel
>
> "Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> wrote in message
> news:fjj45g$rlh$1...@aioe.org...
>>
>> "Jim Alexander" <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in message
>> news:kqz6j.14884$kt3....@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>>
>>> Where there is more than one leak in a single installation there must be
>>> a systemic reason. I would have expected a competent plumber to have
>>> identified what the systemic reason was when inspected on call-back. I
>>> would never exclude a product quality control issue but it wouldn't be
>>> my first suspicion.
>>
>> I know of a few sites where Hep2O is used and the average failure is one
>> fitting per house on testing the first fix. Some have none others more.
>> Even after weeks and after second fix, a fitting will fail when the owner
>> is living in the house or on second fix. Grab rings have failed without
>> any reason.
>
> or perhaps because of squinty roughly cut pipe ends.
I wrote: "Grab rings have failed without any reason."
>>The expansion of the pipe puts great stress on the joints, so lots off
>>slack in the pipe run is advisable.
>
> Nonsense.
Your experince of plastic pipe is clearly limited.
> The only thing that is adviseable is clipping in accordance with the
> manufacturers recommendations. The stress bit is complete bollocks too.
> Yes there is expansion on heating but stress cannot increase dramatically
> because of the inherent flexibility of the installation.. That's just
> physics.
As I said, "Your experince of plastic pipe is clearly limited."
Andrew Gabriel
"Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> writes:
>
> I wrote: "Grab rings have failed without any reason."
Your logic is flawed. All you can say is that grab rings
have failed without you understanding the reason. There's
always a reason why something fails, but you may not always
understand what it is.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Ian_m
news:a9CdnQCYXrkfOsDa...@pipex.net...
Fogot to say failure of pushfit was always incorrectly pushed in, which is
why I mentioned the tip about marker pen. The pumbers that did my house
didn't bother messing around with a marker pen, they always cut at a pipe
mark and inserted to a pipe mark (well every single joint I have seen),
leading to some interesting if not tight bends and kinks of the plastic
pipe. Looks a tad undtidy ie 4 pipes with right angle bends all in different
positions rather than neatly lined up and straight runs with bends and
"waves", but then is in ceiling so tidyness was probably not a criteria.
I got the bit about silicone grease from watching the fitters, they always
greased the ends of the Osmagold pipe before pushing in (I had previously
replumbed using Hep2O and never did this).
The fitters always used the 10m/25m coils of pipe as the 3m lengths always
end up scuffed and damaged either in the plumbing suppliers or during
transport. When pushing/fitting pipe in the building I always tape the pipe
free end with insulation tape to prevent damage.
Hep2O
http://www.polyplumb.co.uk/h_book.pdf
and Osmagold instructions.
http://co-uk.wavin.com/master/master.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374305437157&middleTemplateName=oc_middle_service_sub
or http://tinyurl.com/2khsse
My preference is probably Hep2O, as you can take all the grab rings, O rings
etc out (and keep and count safely) so you can just push the pipe into the
fitting (hold with masking tape) and layout/set out, cut lengths, add pipe
clips, drill holes, put marker pen marks of push depth on the pipe etc
before commiting to the final push (and remember/count the pip inserts as
well).
One other thing plastic shouldn't be used in bolier connection to hot tank
and to loft tank (spec says within 1 metre of bolier ?) in case boiler
faults and boils over as pipe is generally rated to 90°C.
Also remember earth bonding if you "break" a section of copper with a pastic
section, the favourite here being adding a shower pump.
Doctor Drivel
"Andrew Gabriel" <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:475e4c40$0$509$5a6a...@news.aaisp.net.uk...
> In article <fjkjsr$7h1$1...@aioe.org>,
> "Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> writes:
>>
>> I wrote: "Grab rings have failed without any reason."
>
> Your logic is flawed. All you can say is that grab rings
> have failed without you understanding the reason. There's
> always a reason why something fails, but you may not always
> understand what it is.
The fitters don't care why these things fail for no apparent reason. They
know it fails and causes leaks, expense and stress all around to rectify.
Ed Sirett
You experience largely agrees with mine. I use a speedfit 'button' or the
plastic protector supplied on the reel when pushing the stuff under
floors.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Appin
from "Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> contains these words:
> The fitters don't care why these things fail for no apparent reason. They
> know it fails and causes leaks, expense and stress all around to rectify.
Sure. But that's why they remain fitters.
Intelligent plumbers -- or intelligent persons of any rade or profession
or of none -- will want to know WHY something fails.
Granted, good design should reduce the risk of failure, but even the
best designs can be badly fitted.
geoff
<ap...@zetnet.co.uk> writes
Well, Drivel's your man for that ...
--
geoff
Doctor Drivel
"Appin" <ap...@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3130303036363...@zetnet.co.uk...
> The message <fjm3iq$u2$1...@aioe.org>
> from "Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> contains these words:
>
>
>> The fitters don't care why these things fail for no apparent reason. They
>> know it fails and causes leaks, expense and stress all around to rectify.
>
> Sure. But that's why they remain fitters.
>
> Intelligent plumbers -- or intelligent persons of any rade or profession
> or of none -- will want to know WHY something fails.
The point I clearly made was that the fitters have no control of the
internal manufacturing of the pushfit fitting. Totally out of their control.
> Granted, good design should reduce the risk of failure, but even the
> best designs can be badly fitted.
I clearly made the point that these fitting were "correctly" fitted. I have
had grab rings fail on Hep2O when a one lever shower mixer was slammed off
and the shock wave pushed the pushfit fitting off. This fitting held for
weeks, then a shock,then an a full open end under the floor.
In short only use plastic pipe where you need to. Avoid pushfit fitting,
plastic or brass, use Conex compression fittings instead and give lots of
slack for expansion of the pipe.
Doctor Drivel
"geoff" <ra...@kateda.org> wrote in message
news:smaOU+QQ...@ntlworld.com...
Maxie, you are breath of fresh air.
Doctor Drivel
"Frank Erskine" <frank....@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:5lgrl39q0d7dck3jo...@4ax.com...
Please use a hacksaw and don't trim off. Please do.
Doctor Drivel
What pressure did they test first fix under? If they did test. Many test
from 10 to 18 bar to be sure as they have been bitten in the past.
John Stumbles
> I clearly made the point that these fitting were "correctly" fitted. I
> have had grab rings fail on Hep2O when a one lever shower mixer was
> slammed off and the shock wave pushed the pushfit fitting off. This
> fitting held for weeks, then a shock,then an a full open end under the
> floor.
Extraordinary. Was there very high water pressure? IIRC Hep20 is
specced up to some ridiculously high pressure which I wouldn't have
expected water hammer to overcome (taken together with the slight
elasticity of the pipe).
> In short only use plastic pipe where you need to. Avoid pushfit fitting,
> plastic or brass, use Conex compression fittings instead and give lots of
> slack for expansion of the pipe.
I have a nagging concern that plastic pipe could creep out of a
compression fitting under repeated water hammer conditions.
--
John Stumbles
Bob the builder / it'll cost 'yer
Bob the builder / loadsa dosh
Pete C
?I have
> had grab rings fail on Hep2O when a one lever shower mixer was slammed off
> and the shock wave pushed the pushfit fitting off. This fitting held for
> weeks, then a shock,then an a full open end under the floor.
You need to follow the instructions - to the letter.
cheers,
Pete.
Roger Mills
Pete C <pete...@gmail.com> wrote:
Do you mean he shouldn't have cut the pipe with a hacksaw? <g>
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Doctor Drivel
"Pete C" <pete...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4fa703af-c549-4642...@q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
I needed not to use push-fit fittings.
Pete C
> Do you mean he shouldn't have cut the pipe with a hacksaw? <g>
That and more...
<http://www.hep2o.co.uk/v2Ojointing1.htm>
cheers,
Pete.
Andy Hall
Probably best.
However, you do need to follow the instructions to use solder or
compression fittings as well, so I am not sure that there's much hope
really.
Doctor Drivel
It is right here:
* Cut the pipe squarely.
* Ensure pipe end is clean, free from burrs and surface damage.
Always ensure above.
Doctor Drivel
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message news:4766b4fb@qaanaaq...
> On 2007-12-17 17:10:40 +0000, "Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> said:
>
>>
>> "Pete C" <pete...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:4fa703af-c549-4642...@q77g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
> On
>>
>>> Dec 13, 11:39 am, "Doctor Drivel" <Min...@nospam.com> wrote:
>>> ?I have
>>>> had grab rings fail on Hep2O when a one lever shower mixer was slammed
>>>> off
>>>> and the shock wave pushed the pushfit fitting off. This fitting held
>>>> for
>>>> weeks, then a shock,then an a full open end under the floor.
>>>
>>> You need to follow the instructions - to the letter.
>>
>> I needed not to use push-fit fittings.
>
> Probably best.
Matt, you are learning at last.
Doctor Drivel
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message news:4766b4fb@qaanaaq...
> However, you do need to follow the instructions to use solder or
> compression fittings as well, so I am not sure that there's much hope
> really.
Matt, you don't use solder with push-fit fittings. Duh!
Steve Firth
Indeed, excellent advice. Some pillocks try to cut the tube with a
hacksaw and make a complete lash up of the job.
Andy Hall
Well no. I don't, but you might.
Doctor Drivel
"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message news:4766e719@qaanaaq...
Doctor Drivel
"Steve Firth" <%steve%@malloc.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1i9a7z4.1lgynyhyrpufoN%%steve%@malloc.co.uk...
> Doctor Drivel <Min...@nospam.com> wrote:
>
>> "Pete C" <pete...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:5e22670f-23f3-47bc...@s8g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
>> > On Dec 17, 3:47 pm, "Roger Mills" <watt.ty...@googlemail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Do you mean he shouldn't have cut the pipe with a hacksaw? <g>
>> >
>> > That and more...
>> >
>> > http://www.hep2o.co.uk/v2Ojointing1.htm
>>
>> It is right here:
>>
>> * Cut the pipe squarely.
>> * Ensure pipe end is clean, free from burrs and surface damage.
>>
>> Always ensure above.
>
> Indeed,
Oh look!! A plantpot!