cutting oak worktops

[Staffbull]

Hi - whats the best method to cut oak worktops ( 38mm) Its the cutouts
for the hob and sink I'm asking about - the skill saw should deal with
the end cuts as had some oak before and cut it up into chopping
boards. Just wondering if anyones done it and knows a best method
saving me the trial and error :-)
drilling a hole and attacking it with the 800w pandulum jig seems the
only way?

thanks in advance.

[tin...@isbd.co.uk]

You should be able to do most of it with the Skil saw (assuming that's
what you meant by "skill saw"). It's fairly easy to do a plunge cut
with a circular saw, just try it first on some scrap (e.g. the old
worktop). Cut the most of the cut-outs with the circular saw and then
finish off with a hand saw so you get reasonably square corners.

--
Chris Green

[Tim Watts]

Staffbull (staff...@googlemail.com) wibbled on Sunday 13 February 2011
17:27:

All the YouTube vids I've watched re worktops have either used jigsaws or
routers depending on the finish required.

If your sinks are overlapped (ie normal, not underhung) - and this will be
true of the hob, you need a hole of no particular quality good to a few mm
of tolerance.

Thus a jigsaw from pilot holes will probably be the easiest and quickest
way. I don;t know what a skill saw is so if that can do plunge cuts, then
whatever - use it and use a jigsaw to finish where it cannot go.

For underhung sinks, a router is normally used (possibly after removing the
bulk of material with a jigsaw, possibly not).

--
Tim Watts

[Peter Scott]

I had to cut a 25 mm oak sheet cleanly for a Belfast sink drainer.
Assuming that the edges will be exposed, a router is the best way as you
get clean square edges. You will need a powerful router. I have a 2kW
one but I think you could get away with a bit less. Make sure that the
cutter is sharp, ideally new. Most important will be to clamp guides on
to ensure that you don't drift and ruin the work. You could work from
underneath and screw them on. The ideal is to do all three or four sides
of the cut in one continuous movement. You then don't get edges that
have to be cleaned up with sandpaper.

Then two or three trial runs without the router on to check for freedom
to move, flex catching, correct positioning etc. Then deep breath,
switch on and approach with confidence. The �300 cost of the board I
used was a bit nerve racking.

Good luck.

[Mr Fuxit]

On Feb 13, 5:27 pm, Staffbull <staffbul...@googlemail.com> wrote:

>  drilling a hole and attacking it with the 800w pandulum jig seems the
> only way?
>
> thanks in advance.

If you are cutting curved corners then don't have the pendulum
switched on.

[GMM]

On Feb 13, 5:27 pm, Staffbull <staffbul...@googlemail.com> wrote:

I did mine with a router but I think it would have been easier to do
the straight runs with a plunge cut using a circular saw, joining up
at the corners with a jig saw. The one important thing I did learn
was to support the lump of wood that falls out when you finish the
cuts - It's heavier than you might think!

[The Natural Philosopher]

Yes. It's not hard to use s long router bit to 'plane' 5-10mm off a a
rough jigsaw cut in one pass.

Far easier than routing the whole thing from scratch.

[stuart noble]

Assuming an inset sink with a lip, it's certainly the easiest way. Holes
at the corners to avoid too sharp a turn with the jigsaw