Core Vent - best way to block up
Peter Boulton
installing a core vent in our lounge as we have an open fire place,
although I have no intention of ever having an open fire.
There is now a draught and ingress of cold air into my lounge!
As I understand it, this infernal thing has nothing to do with cavity wall
insulation and is probably a scam to get more money from the government.
However, now I've got it, is there any elegant way for blocking it up?
Ideally one which is reversible, should I change my mind about having a
fire in my fireplace?
Thanks!
Pete
--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/
Rod
> We've just had cavity wall insulation fitted. The installers INSISTED
> on installing a core vent in our lounge as we have an open fire place,
> although I have no intention of ever having an open fire.
>
> There is now a draught and ingress of cold air into my lounge!
>
> As I understand it, this infernal thing has nothing to do with cavity
> wall insulation and is probably a scam to get more money from the
> government.
>
> However, now I've got it, is there any elegant way for blocking it up?
> Ideally one which is reversible, should I change my mind about having a
> fire in my fireplace?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pete
>
>
>
We had a vent in a room that was not needed (nothing to do with gas or
other heating/combustion so not at all sure why it existed). I used a
piece of 50mm Celotex about the right size and hammered it into place.
(Actually, two pieces one on top of the other.) Then a thin sheet of
something (hardboard) over - and painted. So dead simple to reverse,
effective, easy.
I know I could do the job properly, but it has worked well for over five
years now and I no longer notice the hardboard! But it is out of the way
in the spare bedroom. And I reckon it is actually a warm patch on that wall.
--
Rod
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Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
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Rob
> We've just had cavity wall insulation fitted. The installers INSISTED
> on installing a core vent in our lounge as we have an open fire place,
> although I have no intention of ever having an open fire.
>
> There is now a draught and ingress of cold air into my lounge!
>
> As I understand it, this infernal thing has nothing to do with cavity
> wall insulation and is probably a scam to get more money from the
> government.
>
> However, now I've got it, is there any elegant way for blocking it up?
> Ideally one which is reversible, should I change my mind about having a
> fire in my fireplace?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Pete
>
I don't know if this matters in your situation (in fact it doesn't if
you never have a fire!) but in my experience open fires appear to draw
an incredible amount of air. The light carpets in the lounge are
discoloured at the edges where coal dust has been drawn up from the
cellar. In my situation, that's not the worst - I live in a radon area,
so I think it's sensible to avoid this type of thing, and I have a
window open with an open fire.
Rob
Steve
> However, now I've got it, is there any elegant way for blocking it up?
> Ideally one which is reversible, should I change my mind about having a
> fire in my fireplace?
Pull the cover off and stuff something in it! A big ball of bubble wrap
seemed to do the trick nicely. Might be an idea to put something sticking
out of the vent to remind you its blocked.
Steve
Appin
from Rob <patchoulia...@gmail.com> contains these words:
> I don't know if this matters in your situation (in fact it doesn't if
> you never have a fire!) but in my experience open fires appear to draw
> an incredible amount of air. The light carpets in the lounge are
> discoloured at the edges where coal dust has been drawn up from the
> cellar. In my situation, that's not the worst - I live in a radon area,
> so I think it's sensible to avoid this type of thing, and I have a
> window open with an open fire.
Surely the logical answer for air supply is a duct from the outside
coming up through the floor adjacent to the fire with a simple cover to
seal when not in use.
As regards radon, the answer we used in Canada was very simple. Lift
basement floor. If headroom is limited dig down about 6", Backfill
with gravel. Install vent pipe all the way up to above roof level --
like a soil stack with an open end resting on the gravel. Relay floor
using damproofing membrane ensuring concrete cover is solid and ensuring
that sealing at the edges is perfect.
The chimney effect of the vent stack is usually enough to ensure that
the radon which penetrates from the soil and seeps through the gravel is
vented up the stack harmlessly, but to ensure effective negative
pressure a small fan is often fitted.
Frank Erskine
>The message <OxsEk.59001$FS.2...@newsfe11.ams2>
>from Rob <patchoulia...@gmail.com> contains these words:
>
>> I don't know if this matters in your situation (in fact it doesn't if
>> you never have a fire!) but in my experience open fires appear to draw
>> an incredible amount of air. The light carpets in the lounge are
>> discoloured at the edges where coal dust has been drawn up from the
>> cellar. In my situation, that's not the worst - I live in a radon area,
>> so I think it's sensible to avoid this type of thing, and I have a
>> window open with an open fire.
>
>
>Surely the logical answer for air supply is a duct from the outside
>coming up through the floor adjacent to the fire with a simple cover to
>seal when not in use.
>
If the floor is solid concrete....
--
Frank Erskine
dennis@home
"Frank Erskine" <frank....@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:7le5e4t2r4e2cq10m...@4ax.com...
You don't get argon gas seeping through into the house as long as the DPM is
OK.
>
> --
> Frank Erskine
Appin
from "dennis@home" <den...@killspam.kicks-ass.net> contains these words:
Agreed, but the idea of the vent pipe with the lower end going through
the concrete and dpm (which is sealed to the vent pipe) is that the
slight negative pressure in the pipe provides an easy way for the radon
to escape and no build-up of pressure is possible. Gas being gas and
varying water tables creating pressure, the vent pipe is at least a
cheap and effective way of reducing worries.
Appin
from Frank Erskine <frank....@btinternet.com> contains these words:
The floor in the room in which I am at this moment is indeed solid
concrete. And I have a vent. Put it in before we laid the floor :-).
What were SDS drills and Stihl saws invented for? :-)
Rob
Problems are the cellar is only about 2m (excavation is expensive in
Victorian terraces without 'proper' foundations), the house is in a
conservation area (restricting external ducts), and the fans (from what
I've read) are expensive to run and noisy.
Of course, avoiding radon can be avoided, but it would be expensive in
my case. As it happens a recent surevy revealed 2.4 somethings, against
an average of 2.0, with an action level recommendation of 200. So I
don't *need* the preventative action, luckily.
Rob
Appin
from Rob <patchoulia...@gmail.com> contains these words:
> Problems are the cellar is only about 2m (excavation is expensive in
> Victorian terraces without 'proper' foundations),
What's the present floor?
Excavation doesn't need to go right to the edges, anyway.
> the house is in a
> conservation area (restricting external ducts),
We're not talking about anything more obtrusive than a soil stack
> and the fans (from what
> I've read) are expensive to run and noisy.
In a 2-storey house the fan is probably not necessary anyway. And you
can use whatever fan you like. Unless you're battling serious levels of
radon you don't need a powerful fan. All you're trying to do is provide
an easy way for the radon to esccape harmlessly.
> Of course, avoiding radon can be avoided, but it would be expensive in
> my case. As it happens a recent surevy revealed 2.4 somethings, against
> an average of 2.0, with an action level recommendation of 200. So I
> don't *need* the preventative action, luckily.
Glad you don't need preventative action. Perhaps there's an incentive
to keep the cellar ventilated, though and to seal any crevices through
which it might tend to seep.
Incidentally, one thing not mentioned was basement walls. Excavating
down to foundation level and backfilling with gravel is a big help in
serious cases. Gives an opportunity to tank the basement, too.
Rob
> The message <ghOEk.19598$a24....@newsfe17.ams2>
> from Rob <patchoulia...@gmail.com> contains these words:
>
>
>> Problems are the cellar is only about 2m (excavation is expensive in
>> Victorian terraces without 'proper' foundations),
>
> What's the present floor?
>
> Excavation doesn't need to go right to the edges, anyway.
>
Flagstones.
>> the house is in a
>> conservation area (restricting external ducts),
>
> We're not talking about anything more obtrusive than a soil stack
>
No, fair enough, and it could be located at the rear.
>
>> and the fans (from what
>> I've read) are expensive to run and noisy.
>
> In a 2-storey house the fan is probably not necessary anyway. And you
> can use whatever fan you like. Unless you're battling serious levels of
> radon you don't need a powerful fan. All you're trying to do is provide
> an easy way for the radon to esccape harmlessly.
>
That makes sense. I'd read that fans installed in blocks of flats were
turned off by the occupants.
>
>> Of course, avoiding radon can be avoided, but it would be expensive in
>> my case. As it happens a recent surevy revealed 2.4 somethings, against
>> an average of 2.0, with an action level recommendation of 200. So I
>> don't *need* the preventative action, luckily.
>
> Glad you don't need preventative action. Perhaps there's an incentive
> to keep the cellar ventilated, though and to seal any crevices through
> which it might tend to seep.
>
> Incidentally, one thing not mentioned was basement walls. Excavating
> down to foundation level and backfilling with gravel is a big help in
> serious cases. Gives an opportunity to tank the basement, too.
I had thought of getting the cellar tanked/tidied/decent ceiling up in
any case - but not filled. It's my equivalent of a garden shed and I use
it as a workshop. I've made sure the ventilation is clear although there
isn't much of a through draft as it's two rooms.
Rob
Appin
from Rob <patchoulia...@gmail.com> contains these words:
> > What's the present floor?
> >
> > Excavation doesn't need to go right to the edges, anyway.
> >
> Flagstones.
Makes life a lot easier as far as lifting is concerned, anyway.
You could always consider lifting the flags, digging out 6" of earth,
keeping 6" away from the outer walls, backfilling with 3" gravel, then
sand to avoid perforating the new dpm, then radon quality dpm sealed
with radon tape (you can get both from Toolstation, see p 260 of their
current catalogue). Vent pipe down to the gravel. Radon barrier dpm
laid over the sand and taped to vent pipe.Then concrete in place of
flags. Around edges just take out a couple of inches of earth if
you're worried about the foundations. Bring radon barrier right out to
the walls and lay concrete over Ensure seal to wall is as good as you
can make it.
> That makes sense. I'd read that fans installed in blocks of flats were
> turned off by the occupants.
They may have been installed to deal with a real problem or to the
standards required to deal with a really serious problem.
> I had thought of getting the cellar tanked/tidied/decent ceiling up in
> any case - but not filled. It's my equivalent of a garden shed and I use
> it as a workshop. I've made sure the ventilation is clear although there
> isn't much of a through draft as it's two rooms.
You certainly wouldn't want to use it. Tanking is almost always best
done outside if possible. Where radon's a potential issue, it's all the
more relevant because if one can provide escape routes for the gas
before it ever gets into the house, it's a whole lot better. If you can
waterproof the outside at the same time, so much the better.
Appin
from Appin <ap...@zetnet.co.uk> contains these words:
> You certainly wouldn't want to use it.
Sorry -- that SHOULD have been "You certainly wouldn't want to LOSE it"
-- of course you want to use it, and so would I in your situation!