Adding a thermal cutout to a 13amp plug?

[Tim+]

EV “granny leads” plug into a standard 13 amp socket and draw about 10 amps
continuously. Because of the prolonged nature of the load, the plugs
usually have overheat protection built it.

This is fine and dandy unless you find yourself in a situation where you
have to use an extension lead. Now the thermal protection is in the middle
of the chain so to speak (and probably outdoors where little harm can
result) but now the plug on the extension lead is unprotected.

So, I was wondering if such a thing as either a plug with a built in
thermal cutout exists or whether it’s possible to add a self-resetting
thermal cutout into a conventional 13amp plug.

Does this sound possible? What would be a “safe” temperature limit for
such a plug?

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

[Max Demian]

You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
"fit for purpose".

[1] Assuming the lead isn't wound onto a reel.
--
Max Demian

[Tim+]

Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> On 20/06/2021 08:15, Tim+ wrote:
>>
>> EV “granny leads” plug into a standard 13 amp socket and draw about 10 amps
>> continuously. Because of the prolonged nature of the load, the plugs
>> usually have overheat protection built it.
>>
>> This is fine and dandy unless you find yourself in a situation where you
>> have to use an extension lead. Now the thermal protection is in the middle
>> of the chain so to speak (and probably outdoors where little harm can
>> result) but now the plug on the extension lead is unprotected.
>>
>> So, I was wondering if such a thing as either a plug with a built in
>> thermal cutout exists or whether it’s possible to add a self-resetting
>> thermal cutout into a conventional 13amp plug.
>>
>> Does this sound possible? What would be a “safe” temperature limit for
>> such a plug?
>
> You either need better quality connections

You might not have a choice if charging away from home.

> or to reduce the load. 13A
> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
> "fit for purpose"

Charging at 10amps is quite slow enough thank you. Some 13amp sockets and
plugs *do* overheat with a continuous 10 amp load though, hence my
question.

> [1] Assuming the lead isn't wound onto a reel

I’m well aware of that issue.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk>,

Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
> "fit for purpose".

I'm not sure 13 amp was designed for long term continuous loading at peak.

Hence things like permanent heaters normally being hard wired.

--
*It is wrong to ever split an infinitive *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Theo]

Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
> "fit for purpose".

Many 3kW electric heaters don't take 3kW continuously. They do when they're
first turned on, but after a while the room gets up to temperature and they
cycle on and off on their thermostat.

I had a 3kW kettle boil itself dry the other day (the cutoff failed). After
about 10 mins of taking 3kW the plug was really hot and the cable quite
warm.

There's a reason 3kW immersion heaters are typically on a hardwired
connection rather than a socket - because they can run at full load for long
periods.

Theo

[Martin Brown]

On 20/06/2021 11:35, Max Demian wrote:
> On 20/06/2021 08:15, Tim+ wrote:
>>
>> EV “granny leads” plug into a standard 13 amp socket and draw about 10
>> amps
>> continuously.  Because of the prolonged nature of the load, the plugs
>> usually have overheat protection built it.

Unless you put it under a duvet I can't see that there should really be
a problem. You can buy overheat thermal cutouts quite cheaply but I
don't know of any integral to a 13A plug.

>> This is fine and dandy unless you find yourself in a situation where you
>> have to use an extension lead. Now the thermal protection is in the
>> middle
>> of the chain so to speak (and probably outdoors where little harm can
>> result) but now the plug on the extension lead is unprotected.
>>
>> So, I was wondering if such a thing as either a plug with a built in
>> thermal cutout exists or whether it’s possible to add a self-resetting
>> thermal cutout into a conventional 13amp plug.
>>
>> Does this sound possible?  What would be a “safe” temperature limit for
>> such a plug?
>
> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
> "fit for purpose".

Actually it has been found that 13A continuous load on a nominal 13A
socket is somewhat problematic and life shortening for both the plug and
the socket. That is one of the reasons why many portable heating
appliances have been derated to 2.4kW maximum (ie 10A). You can get away
with it for a kettle that only runs for a couple of minutes but not for
a room heater that might draw 3kW for many hours continuously.

>
> [1] Assuming the lead isn't wound onto a reel.

I'd have thought most decent plugs and sockets could stand 10A current
draw almost indefinitely. The plug *will* get warm to the touch though
due to thermal dissipation in the fuse. Fuses typically will blow in
just a few minutes at twice their nominal rated current.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[Theo]

Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, I was wondering if such a thing as either a plug with a built in
> thermal cutout exists or whether it’s possible to add a self-resetting
> thermal cutout into a conventional 13amp plug.

One way to do it:
https://www.speakev.com/threads/delphi-granny-charger-repair-ic-cpd-aptiv-240v-10a.145484/

Theo

[ARW]

On 20/06/2021 08:15, Tim+ wrote:
>

I was called to a hospital kitchen last week as a 13A plug on a plate
warmer was getting hot.

After I had run my hand under cold water for 5 minutes after trying to
unplug it (yes it was that hot) then I swapped the plug.

The only source of heat was the fuse or the fuse holder "push to fit
terminals" (I have some photos).

Make your own extension lead?


--
Adam

[Tim+]

Dave Plowman (News) <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
> In article <NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk>,
> Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>> "fit for purpose".
>
> I'm not sure 13 amp was designed for long term continuous loading at peak.
>
> Hence things like permanent heaters normally being hard wired.
>

<sigh>

They might not be, but thermal overheat protection makes them safer if you
do find yourself in the situation on needing to use one.

[Tim+]

Martin Brown <'''newspam'''@nonad.co.uk> wrote:
> On 20/06/2021 11:35, Max Demian wrote:
>> On 20/06/2021 08:15, Tim+ wrote:
>>>
>>> EV “granny leads” plug into a standard 13 amp socket and draw about 10
>>> amps
>>> continuously.  Because of the prolonged nature of the load, the plugs
>>> usually have overheat protection built it.
>
> Unless you put it under a duvet I can't see that there should really be
> a problem.

There are any number of pictures of burnt out sockets and plugs on EV
forums. Saying that you don’t think it’s a problem isn’t helpful.

> You can buy overheat thermal cutouts quite cheaply but I
> don't know of any integral to a 13A plug.

Hence my question.

[Tim+]

I have what I think is a fairly decent heavy duty extension lead with an
RCD device that was salvaged from a hot tub pump and heater device. I’m
just thinking about how to add an extra level of safety to the system to
recreate what I’d have with the granny lead alone.

[Tim+]

That’s interesting but I suspect no use for a standalone extension lead. In
a simple extension lead I really want something that can switch the full 10
amps without using relays etc (or whatever is in the granny lead control
box.

I suppose I could try and add a relay in the lead somewhere in another
enclosure though…

[Theo]

Tim+ <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
> That’s interesting but I suspect no use for a standalone extension lead. In
> a simple extension lead I really want something that can switch the full 10
> amps without using relays etc (or whatever is in the granny lead control
> box.

Could you fit something like this in a 'wall wart' style plastic enclosure?
https://sinolec.co.uk/en/normally-closed-thermostats-loose-bracket/401-thermostat-80-closed.html
You would bolt it to the live pin for good thermal contact and then loop the
circuit through.

(other temperatures/currents available)

You would have to check the wall wart enclosure and its pins are rated for
full current though. Many of them are thin thermoplastic (ABS?).

Theo

[Chris Bacon]

On 20/06/2021 11:35, Max Demian wrote:
>

> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
> "fit for purpose".

The only times I've had problems with 13A plugs getting hot is when
there has been a bad connection to one of the pins (not the earth one).
They don't have to be running at high loads for that effect to happen,
either.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Whilst a properly wired brand new plug in a brand new socket my be
perfectly fine at 13A, over time this ceases to be the case. I remember
my late mothers Hoover Keymatic, after about 10 years of use, had a
smoking 13A plug. Pure corrosion on I think the fuseholder had increased
the resistance of the contacts.

The socket in the wall was pretty sick too. Lot of scorching


--
“Some people like to travel by train because it combines the slowness of
a car with the cramped public exposure of 
an airplane.”

Dennis Miller

[John Rumm]

On 20/06/2021 11:59, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk>,
> Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>> "fit for purpose".
>
> I'm not sure 13 amp was designed for long term continuous loading at peak.

They are, however time, dirt and corrosion[1] can mess with the best of
them.

The thermal loading/stress test in BS 1363-1 specifies a test where the
plug is loaded with a 14A load for 60 mins, and then allowed to cool for
60 mins. The cycle is then repeated 200 times, before a final test at
14A when the temperature is taken directly after. The maximum permitted
rise being 37 deg C at the pins, and 52 degrees at the terminals and the
external surfaces. (tests conducted at 20 degrees ambient)

[1] There are also fairly stringent corrosion tests in the spec as well.




--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

[John Rumm]

So take your own good quality extension lead as well. Then it's only the
state of the socket you need to worry about.

(there are plenty of 3kW Immersion heaters out there running for years
on a 13A plug without any problem)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
<1510426483.645882749.198...@news.individual.net>,

It is going to depend on the condition and quality of the socket, as well
as the plug. Of course something in part of the bit you do control could
be a stopgap.

But the real answer is to use a connector rated for the job in hand - not
one designed long before EVs were even thought of.

Or, of course, reduce the load to the point where any 13 socket will be
happy delivering long term.

--
*If all is not lost, where the hell is it?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <sanbeg$gvn$1...@gioia.aioe.org>,

It's often the fuse connection that causes them to run hot - depending on
plug design. Unless both new, worth making sure they are clean and tight.

--
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

[John Rumm]

On 20/06/2021 12:13, Theo wrote:
> Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>> "fit for purpose".
>
> Many 3kW electric heaters don't take 3kW continuously. They do when they're
> first turned on, but after a while the room gets up to temperature and they
> cycle on and off on their thermostat.
>
> I had a 3kW kettle boil itself dry the other day (the cutoff failed). After
> about 10 mins of taking 3kW the plug was really hot and the cable quite
> warm.

If it was like most chinesium kettles, the flex CSA was probably
undersized for anything but a very short term load.

[John Rumm]

On 20/06/2021 13:04, Tim+ wrote:

You can get "one shot" thermal fuses that are quite small for this kind
of application:

https://cpc.farnell.com/thermodisc/g5a01072c/fuse-thermal-axial-16a-72-c/dp/FF03014

[Robin]

On 20/06/2021 08:15, Tim+ wrote:
>

Sounds like hard work compared with a variation on the Jesus lead: two
13A plugs wired onto 2 short lenghts of 1.5mm flex connected in a
junction box to 10m (or whatever length you think you need) of 2.5mm
flex to a trailing socket into which you plug your "granny lead".
Better if the plug tops were fixed to a bar so they could not be removed
individually but I can't recall if BS1363 mandates the spacing of the
contacts in 2 gang sockets.

JOOI are a plug and socket to make up an extension at the other end
exorbitantly expensive or is there some other barrier to that?

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

[ARW]

On 20/06/2021 13:47, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <sanbeg$gvn$1...@gioia.aioe.org>,
> Chris Bacon <chris....@maildrop.cc> wrote:
>> On 20/06/2021 11:35, Max Demian wrote:
>>>
>>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>>> "fit for purpose".
>
>> The only times I've had problems with 13A plugs getting hot is when
>> there has been a bad connection to one of the pins (not the earth one).
>> They don't have to be running at high loads for that effect to happen,
>> either.
>
> It's often the fuse connection that causes them to run hot - depending on
> plug design. Unless both new, worth making sure they are clean and tight.
>

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Hotplug1.jpg

and

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/File:Hotplug2.jpg

hotter than the 18 year old secretary in her 12" skirt.

--
Adam

[Chris Bacon]

On 20/06/2021 13:47, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> In article <sanbeg$gvn$1...@gioia.aioe.org>,
> Chris Bacon <chris....@maildrop.cc> wrote:
>> The only times I've had problems with 13A plugs getting hot is when
>> there has been a bad connection to one of the pins (not the earth one).
>> They don't have to be running at high loads for that effect to happen,
>> either.
>
> It's often the fuse connection that causes them to run hot - depending on
> plug design. Unless both new, worth making sure they are clean and tight.

As you probably know, the hot bit can be felt, sometimes even painfully.

Recently I've been doing a bit of welding with my very old buzz box.
Downstairs ring circuit connection to 25m extension lead to welder.
Using 3.2mm electrodes on about 125A setting, likely the scale's a bit
off either way though. For some reason the fuse in the extension lead's
plug has blown three or four times, but never the one in the welder's
plug. Not sure why. All connections seem good. The thermal fuse in the
(fully unwound) extension cable's middle tripped once too, but it was in
the hot sun. Oh well.

[jon]

That's a hot socket, that could also be damp.

[Max Demian]

On 20/06/2021 11:59, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> In article <NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk>,
> Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:

>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>> "fit for purpose".
>
> I'm not sure 13 amp was designed for long term continuous loading at peak.
>
> Hence things like permanent heaters normally being hard wired.

Portable 3kW fan heaters are still available.

--
Max Demian

[ARW]

At my age my best chance is her mother.

And she is probably younger than me.


--
Adam

[charles]

In article <sanbeg$gvn$1...@gioia.aioe.org>,
Chris Bacon <chris....@maildrop.cc> wrote:

Some of the probles are caused by the "socket protectors" that people plug
in to stop children inserting things in the sockets. Some of them have
oversize 'pins'. I had to replace one of our village hall sockets which
kept overheating due to this cause.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
"I'd rather die of exhaustion than die of boredom" Thomas Carlyle

[jon]

With me, it would be great-grandmother and she would have to be very
helpful.

[Andrew]

On 20/06/2021 13:43, John Rumm wrote:
> On 20/06/2021 11:59, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>> In article <NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk>,
>>     Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>>> "fit for purpose".
>>
>> I'm not sure 13 amp was designed for long term continuous loading at
>> peak.
>
> They are, however time, dirt and corrosion[1] can mess with the best of
> them.
>
> The thermal loading/stress test in BS 1363-1 specifies a test where the
> plug is loaded with a 14A load for 60 mins, and then allowed to cool for
> 60 mins. The cycle is then repeated 200 times, before a final test at
> 14A when the temperature is taken directly after. The maximum permitted
> rise being 37 deg C at the pins, and 52 degrees at the terminals and the
> external surfaces. (tests conducted at 20 degrees ambient)
>
> [1] There are also fairly stringent corrosion tests in the spec as well.
>
>
>
>

For heavy loads I always use the MK plugs where you wrap the
cable around a pillar and the fastener clamps down with a greater
contact area.

[Tim+]

Thanks. I might try that. Something self resetting would be nice but maybe
that’s to much to fit into a standard plug.

[Tim+]

I do John, but I can’t always know the quality of the socket that I’m using
if I’m away from home.

>
> (there are plenty of 3kW Immersion heaters out there running for years
> on a 13A plug without any problem)
>

But the thermostat will be cycling regularly so that’s not really
comparable to 10 amps continuously for 12 hours say.

[John Rumm]

There are self resetting ones - but they tend to be bigger. I suppose
you could piggy back something onto the back of a plug.

[John Rumm]

On 20/06/2021 16:34, Tim+ wrote:

So the diy solution, have a box of good quality single and double
sockets in the car, and do a free upgrade for the owner each time you
find a suspect one :-)

Or as a quick fix you can also help matters by inserting and removing
the plug a few times to help wipe the contacts a bit.

The main danger are shagged sockets where they no longer have the spring
tension in the contacts to make a solid contact - whether through use or
abuse.

>> (there are plenty of 3kW Immersion heaters out there running for years
>> on a 13A plug without any problem)
>>
>
> But the thermostat will be cycling regularly so that’s not really
> comparable to 10 amps continuously for 12 hours say.

If its a reheat following a bath, then it will likely be on solid for a
a couple of hours[1] - that ought to get the plug to its "final"
temperature whatever that might be.


[1] Say 100L with a rise from 10 to 60 degrees, and a 3kW heater -
that's 100 x 50 x 4200 / 3000 / 3600 hours or ~2 hours

[John Rumm]

On 20/06/2021 15:23, charles wrote:
> In article <sanbeg$gvn$1...@gioia.aioe.org>,
> Chris Bacon <chris....@maildrop.cc> wrote:
>> On 20/06/2021 11:35, Max Demian wrote:
>>>
>>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>>> "fit for purpose".
>
>> The only times I've had problems with 13A plugs getting hot is when
>> there has been a bad connection to one of the pins (not the earth one).
>> They don't have to be running at high loads for that effect to happen,
>> either.
>
> Some of the probles are caused by the "socket protectors" that people plug
> in to stop children inserting things in the sockets. Some of them have
> oversize 'pins'. I had to replace one of our village hall sockets which
> kept overheating due to this cause.

+1

BS1363 is very specific about pin dimensions and tolerances, also things
like chamfer angles so that the pin makes good contact, but also so that
it can't damage or dislodge the terminals on insertion.

Most of those socket protector things don't even come close on spec, and
it's not helped by them usually being made from soft thermoplastics that
are more likely to snag in the first place.

[Tim+]

But surely if it’s not *in* the plug next to the live terminal, it’s not
going to offer much protection?

[John Rumm]

You would just need to adjust the sensitivity to account for the thermal
resistance of whatever is between your sensor and the hot bit. So if you
decide that 70 degrees at the terminal is the limit, that may translate
to 45 degrees at the place you can measure.

(failing that you run a K style thermocouple into plug and have a
microcontroller monitor it, while also controlling a contactor so you
can disconnect the load if required)

[Jeff Layman]

Are all fuses created equal? I don't mean the difference between fast
and slow blow, but within a type. I'd always assumed that if BS 1362 was
on the fuse, it met a standard. But there are fakes around:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHA-WQEmsRE>

Perhaps the OP had one of these counterfeit fuses.

--

Jeff

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

I don't see how that can work given the mass in the materials present.I've
seen plugs melt and sockets melt at apparently just warm temperatures. Seems
like those polypropylene ones are particularly prone to this. Surely a
current device is the best thing, so the button pops when you are getting
near to the current which might warm up the contacts in either part.
Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Tim+" <tim.d...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:752468816.645865698.180...@news.individual.net...

>
> EV "granny leads" plug into a standard 13 amp socket and draw about 10
> amps
> continuously. Because of the prolonged nature of the load, the plugs
> usually have overheat protection built it.
>
> This is fine and dandy unless you find yourself in a situation where you
> have to use an extension lead. Now the thermal protection is in the middle
> of the chain so to speak (and probably outdoors where little harm can
> result) but now the plug on the extension lead is unprotected.
>
> So, I was wondering if such a thing as either a plug with a built in
> thermal cutout exists or whether it's possible to add a self-resetting
> thermal cutout into a conventional 13amp plug.
>
> Does this sound possible? What would be a "safe" temperature limit for
> such a plug?
>

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

There used to be extension cables with a simple current measuring breaker in
the lead, normally about a couple of feet from the plug and when the load
exceeded the current, pop goes the button. Can be a trifle irritating on
devices with a high start up current though.

Brian

--

This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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"Max Demian" <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk...

> On 20/06/2021 08:15, Tim+ wrote:
>>

>> EV "granny leads" plug into a standard 13 amp socket and draw about 10
>> amps
>> continuously. Because of the prolonged nature of the load, the plugs
>> usually have overheat protection built it.
>>
>> This is fine and dandy unless you find yourself in a situation where you
>> have to use an extension lead. Now the thermal protection is in the
>> middle
>> of the chain so to speak (and probably outdoors where little harm can
>> result) but now the plug on the extension lead is unprotected.
>>
>> So, I was wondering if such a thing as either a plug with a built in
>> thermal cutout exists or whether it's possible to add a self-resetting
>> thermal cutout into a conventional 13amp plug.
>>
>> Does this sound possible? What would be a "safe" temperature limit for
>> such a plug?
>

> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not "fit
> for purpose".
>

> [1] Assuming the lead isn't wound onto a reel.
> --
> Max Demian

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

Most storage heaters are more than 13 amp and are hard wired. If I run a 3kw
fan heater for, say half an our with no thermostat, the plug/socket will get
warm, but not dangerously so. The actual warm parts tend to be the internal
fuse connections or the places where wires join the hardware in my
experience.

Brian

--

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"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:593f81b...@davenoise.co.uk...

> In article <NoidnWaIQqtmhFL9...@brightview.co.uk>,
> Max Demian <max_d...@bigfoot.com> wrote:

>> You either need better quality connections or to reduce the load. 13A
>> plugs, sockets and leads [1] certainly should take 13A continuously;
>> people do/did it for 3KW electric heaters. If they don't they're not
>> "fit for purpose".
>

> I'm not sure 13 amp was designed for long term continuous loading at peak.
>

> Hence things like permanent heaters normally being hard wired.
>

> --
> *It is wrong to ever split an infinitive *

[charles]

In article <saph3g$qe0$1...@dont-email.me>, Jeff Layman

years ago, we came across some 5A 20mm fuses which had a resistance of 1
Ohm. There was a significant voltage drop across them at 4A.

[The Natural Philosopher]

strangely enough fuses work by melting at slightly above rated current.


--
“It is dangerous to be right in matters on which the established
authorities are wrong.”

― Voltaire, The Age of Louis XIV

[charles]

In article <saq117$8bt$1...@dont-email.me>, The Natural Philosopher

and the relevance? 4A drawn through a %A fuse.

[The Natural Philosopher]

there needs to be resistance and power loss, and heat, to ensure it
blows on schedule

--
“It is not the truth of Marxism that explains the willingness of
intellectuals to believe it, but the power that it confers on
intellectuals, in their attempts to control the world. And since...it is
futile to reason someone out of a thing that he was not reasoned into,
we can conclude that Marxism owes its remarkable power to survive every
criticism to the fact that it is not a truth-directed but a
power-directed system of thought.”
Sir Roger Scruton

[ARW]

On 20/06/2021 16:08, jon wrote:

>
> With me, it would be great-grandmother and she would have to be very
> helpful.
>

:-)


--
Adam

[ARW]

I found two 2g sockets in a flat (if you can call them flats) that had
no earth when a socket was inserted..

On stripdown it showed that the earth pin on the socket was nowhere near
the sockets earth "spring terminals"

--
Adam

[Chris Bacon]

I bought mine from Screwfix, they look OK, not like in that video in any
way. I'd *guess* that why the extension lead fuse blows rather than the
one in the buzzbox's plug is something to with the length of the
extension lead.