Reducing thickness of reclaimed parquet flooring
colin...@gmail.com
each board around 12" x 3" x 1". I want to reduce the thickness of
this to something much less.
I'm intending to use the boards to lay a parquet floor over concrete.
The concrete floor is level with existing parquet flooring in two
adjoining rooms so I'd like to reduce the thickness of the boards
before I lay them so that there is only a small height difference
between the floors in the different rooms. An incidental benefit would
be to remove the residual bitumen on the reclaimed wood.
What is the cheapest practical way of doing this and with what tool?
I'm happy to rent something (thicknesser, band saw?) from HSS, or buy
a cheap (£100'ish) tool for the job or get someone else to do it.
Also, given that I'm laying on to a flat level surface, what is the
minimum thickness people would recommend for the boards?
Thanks in advance!
Colin
Stuart Noble
I've been through this with a friend of mine who had a garage full of
these things taken from the Bristol Corn Exchange IIRC.
The first thing to consider is that the boards almost certainly need to
be standardised to, say, 11.75" x 2.75" to ensure that they are
identical. Trying to lay a floor with slightly varying sizes would be
frustrating in the extreme. This can be done easily on a sawbench, but 2
passes and 400+ boards is not trivial (and ideally you would trim all 4
edges, so double that figure).
You could also run them twice through a sawbench with the blade set to
1.5" height to reduce the thickness, say another 800 passes......, but
the problem here is that pitch pine is very resinous and will gum up the
teeth pretty quickly. You would also need to abandon all H&S guidelines
by removing the guard and riving knife. Shock horror
A thicknesser would be good in theory but you may find the blade won't
cope with the bitumen/pitch (and possibly the odd metal fixing?). The
bandsaw is the logical answer in some ways but I don't have too much
experience in that area so I'll keep quiet.
My friend decided to lay his as they were and I didn't have the heart to
tell him how awful the end result was, or comment on the time it took.
Phil L
Either pay a professional parquet flooring contractor to come and do the
floor with new blocks, or throw the ones you have in a skip and get a
carpet, either way, make sure they all end up in a skip as they are more
trouble than they are worth.
Believe me, only heartache and many hundreds of wasted pounds lie down this
road, and the result is always, always horrendous.
Stuart Noble
I wouldn't quite go that far, but variations in width, length, *and*
thickness would make it too labour intensive to be justifiable on any
grounds other than sentimental. The first two dimensions could probably
be standardised by spending an 8 hour day on a sawbench, but the
thicknesss is the killer.
bolt...@mailbolt.com
wrote:
> Phil L wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
I've laid reclaimed parquet and it's turned out fantastically well -
you have to buy it all from the same batch, but you'd have to be
pretty naive or stupid to do otherwise.
Stuart Noble
Same batch doesn't mean a lot when it's been on the floor for 100 years
and has shrunk to varying degrees. A mm or two variation would drive you
crazy over a 12 sq.m surface
bolt...@mailbolt.com
wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
Well, I've done one 60m2 and one 35m2 floor, and neither was a problem
at all - it may have helped that these were stable tropical hardwoods
(wenge and teak).
gillb...@gmail.com
We have taken our hall parquet up and want to put it in the living room - we have loads so we know it wont be an issue of running out!
We are looking at using a thicknesser to run them all through - any recommendations on the best type to go for (and not cost the earth) to even them out and remove the bitumen?
Many thanks
Tim Watts
GB
about a third of that for a week. I'm not sure what happens if you burn
it out and return it covered in bitumen?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEYtaDFpQi0 -- and he isn't even
cleaning the base up at all!
Tim Watts
> On 04/03/2015 12:42, Tim Watts wrote:
>> On 04/03/15 12:39, gillb...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi We have taken our hall parquet up and want to put it in the living
>>> room - we have loads so we know it wont be an issue of running out!
>>>
>>> We are looking at using a thicknesser to run them all through - any
>>> recommendations on the best type to go for (and not cost the earth)
>>> to even them out and remove the bitumen? Many thanks
>>>
>>
>> I think a thicknesser is going to get gummed up by the bitumen.
>
>
> Screwfix do a Titan thicknesser for £150, but HSS will hire you one for
> about a third of that for a week. I'm not sure what happens if you burn
> it out and return it covered in bitumen?
and cleaned!
An alternative idea:
Can teh OP do a rough clean (hand scrape), lay as is (the hot bitumen
should bond to any residual left) and then sand the surface flat with a
floor sander?
fred
I'd be more worried about the length of them being a bit short to span the feed rollers.
He could make a carriage for them to allow them pass under the thicknesser. This is quite common if one wants to thickness very thin material. Sheet of 10mm ply with a low leading edge and low side walls and set the blocks into it.
fred
Tricky Dicky
Richard
stuart noble
the width of the parquet and do it in 2 passes. Yes, you'll have a
slight ridge in the middle, but nothing significant, and it would enable
you to hold on to the wood as it passes through the blade. Not something
I'd enjoy doing myself, but I have done similar things in the past, and
still have a full complement of fingers.
As already mentioned, no blade will tolerate bitumen, it melts too readily
meow...@care2.com
If you've got more than enough, no need to plane, just reject the uneven ones.
NT
Capitol
blade to get a straight cut.
Alternatively white spirit will soften bitumen. However I'd heat and
scrape first to reduce the amount of white spirit used. Maybe a
vapour/spray bath might be feasible.
Nick
<gillb...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf1a260d-5570-4972...@googlegroups.com...
9x3x1.5 inches. From a church that was being demolished. Laid in 1908, don't
know what might have been used as adhesive. Black tarry stuff, possibly
bitumen. All filthy dirty and some,little, traffic wear. The church had
little roof left.
I made a sledge to hold 8 blocks at a time. This passed through the
thicknesser to skim the adhesive off. Adhesive quite brittle and played
havoc with the cutters. These were no tct cutters. Being brittle the stuff
flew all over the workshop but did not adhere to the cutters.
After all done repeated the process and planed the face to thickness.
Made a couple of scrapers from old hacksaw blade to clean the t&g. This done
by hand.
Cleaned up 8000 blocks.
Laid by a professional and it is superb to this day.
In answer to your question (1) hire one or (2) find a local craftsman who is
willing to have a go.
HTH
Nick.
harryagain
Just glue them down and sand when in position (hire a floor sander).
You will need a belt sander to do the bits close to the wall.
Ideally put skirtings on after sanding.
These old blocks were all sanded after installation.
BTW, the bitumen may be the only damp proofing the floor has, so you need to
think about what you will do in the hallway. You definitely have a problem
if the blocks were lifting (in the hallway). Indicates damp coming up.
GMM
and keep the bitumen as it shouldn't stop them sticking down? That way
it doesn't gum up the cutter and it gives a nice 'new' finish to the
blocks. Of course, the OP doesn't say how much they need to be reduced
by, which is probably an important factor.....
Rerence
rubbish. Ive laid many reclaimed parquet floors and end result is gorgeous.
The key is not to be sucked into paying 30-45.00 a metre. Plenty of cheap
reclaimed parquet out there I just bought 120 m2 for £500 so 4.00 a m2. 1a
week cleaning them makes it 8.00 per m2... a bargain.
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jivi...@gmail.com
Brian Gaff
:-)
Brian
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<jivi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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tabb...@gmail.com
> <jivi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:45938098-974f-45ee...@googlegroups.com...
> > Bolt did you leave a bit of bitumen on the bottom?
> :-)
>
> Brian
NT
Tim Lamb
<bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
> :-)
In my youth! Lambs tails were cut off with a sharp knife and the blood
vessels sealed with a hot piece of iron.
The tar was then applied to protect the wound.
We have progressed to rubber rings!
--
Tim Lamb
Andy Burns
> In my youth! Lambs tails were cut off with a sharp knife and the blood
> vessels sealed with a hot piece of iron.
<http://curiouskai.blogspot.co.uk/2006/11/lamb-tails.html>