fixing timber cladding to concrete block garden wall - nail gun?

[Jim K]

as per title - how would I fix "decorative" treated timber to a low
concrete block garden wall?

Ideally I'm imagining a nail gun for speed - but what sort of brads/
nails are needed for secure fixing and longevity?

Cheers
Jim K

[NT]

Expect a shattered wall.


NT

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <ffd1c80d-2bb0-4e1d...@y10g2000vbn.googlegroups.com>,

I would probably screw some treated battens (roofing battens would
be good) to the wall using SDS drill and plugs.

Then attach whatever you want to those with nails or screws. Leave
enough air gaps so the battens are not sealed in and can dry out;
that way both the battens are whatever facing you use will last
longer.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[Fredxx]

I think I'd screw batons into the wall and nail the timber to them.

[Bolted]

Eh? Would work fine, indoors, with the right nails and nail-gun.

Outside, you want to allow water to drain and the masonry nailgun
nails aren't galvanised (or ss or otherwise treated), so nailing or
screwing into battens would be a much better way to go as others have
suggested.

But a concrete block wall shattering would not be an issue.

[Jim K]

mmm was hoping to avoid battening as they will make the face timber[1]
project too far off the face of the wall, and beyond the slight
overhang of the copings... so brass screws into the block maybe with a
plastic washer or too betwixt wall and timber?

[1] which timber(s) goes a nice weathered grey colour over time and
appears to not need much maintenance?

Jim K

[Tim]

Jim K <jk98...@gmail.com> wrote:

> [1] which timber(s) goes a nice weathered grey colour over time and
> appears to not need much maintenance?
>
> Jim K

Oak for one. Don't know about others.

Tim

[js.b1]

Iroko will weather better than (European) Oak and go a silver grey.
Iroko can also be oiled for a spectacular appearance. Iroko dust is
carcinogenic and the oil can be a bit nasty too. Oak dislikes iron,
Iroko dislikes brass.

You can use individual short panels with Iroko, as a horizontal
cladding, very attractive. No need to overlap and it gives a very
attractive architectural finish.

Why not use a coloured render, textured render etc?

[Bolted]

Is this plain planks, weatherboard, clapboard or what? Run
horizontally or vertically?

> [1] which timber(s) goes a nice weathered grey colour over time
> and appears to not need much maintenance?

I'd use cedar, oak, larch or chestnut ( the first two being more
easily sourced). Any of the tropicals used for eg decking would also
do (and go grey, all timber does with exposure to UV).

[RustyCrampon]

On 17/02/2012 10:39, Jim K wrote:

If it's only lightweight decorative timber, would one of the epoxy or
polyester based adhesives that comes in big sealant-gun tubes do the job?

[Jim K]

mmm good idea - tho damp tolerance of the bond would be the acid
question??

Jim K

[Jim K]

On Feb 17, 2:38 pm, Bolted <boltm...@mailbolt.com> wrote:
> On Feb 17, 1:12 pm, Jim K <jk989...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Feb 17, 12:31 pm, Bolted <boltm...@mailbolt.com> wrote:
> > > But a concrete block wall shattering would not be an issue.
>
> > mmm was hoping to avoid battening as they will make the face timber[1]
> > project too far off the face of the wall, and beyond the slight
> > overhang of the copings... so brass screws into the block maybe with a
> > plastic washer or too betwixt wall and timber?
>
> Is this plain planks, weatherboard, clapboard or what?

whatever not decided

> Run
> horizontally or vertically?

Vertically along/round a curved "snake like" wall.

> > [1] which timber(s) goes a nice weathered grey colour over time
>
> > and appears to not need much maintenance?
>
> I'd use cedar, oak, larch or chestnut ( the first two being more
> easily sourced). Any of the tropicals used for eg decking would also
> do (and go grey, all timber does with exposure to UV).

mmm put another way what's cheapest and how long would it last left to
go grey?

Jim K

[David WE Roberts]

"RustyCrampon" <ru...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:4f3e7b2a$0$965$a826...@newsreader.readnews.com...

You can now get galvanised self tapping masonary screws - drill a hole, then
screw them in without a plug.
Seemed to work well fixing the joist hangers to concrete block walls for my
shed.
They are fairly meaty, though.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

[David WE Roberts]

"Bolted" <bolt...@mailbolt.com> wrote in message
news:b14d2603-9377-4b90...@k40g2000yqf.googlegroups.com...

*********

I'm with NT on this - true concrete blocks are mainly aggregate and blasting
stones with a brad can excavate pits in the wall.
I have had bad experiences trying to drill small holes where I have hit a
large stone which has then pinged out of the block.

I don't think may houses have concrete blocks indoors - usually brick or
some kind of cinder.
Could be wrong, though :-)

[Jim K]

On Feb 17, 5:53 pm, "David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote:

<snip>

> I don't think may houses have concrete blocks indoors - usually brick or
> some kind of cinder.
> Could be wrong, though :-)

indoors?

Jim K

[Bolted]

On Feb 17, 5:17 pm, Jim K <jk989...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > Run horizontally or vertically?
>
> Vertically along/round a curved "snake like" wall.

Vertical points away from battens as you need battens and cross
battens for proper ventilation and drainage, so that would stick it
even further off the wall.

So I think something along the lines of stand-offs under screws
probably is best, like your washer idea or plastic packers. The end
grain at the top and bottom is going to be where the rot starts to get
you.

I was going to suggest adding a flat board along the top just under
the coving to shed the water further out, but the curve makes that a
no-go.

It would be better to replace the coving with something with more
overhang to shed past the wood, but if that's out of the question, so
be it.

> > > [1] which timber(s) goes a nice weathered grey colour over time
>
> >  > and appears to not need much maintenance?
>
> > I'd use cedar, oak, larch or chestnut ( the first two being more
> > easily sourced).  Any of the tropicals used for eg decking would also
> > do (and go grey, all timber does with exposure to UV).
>
> mmm put another way what's cheapest and how long would it last left to
> go grey?

Cedar is normally a nice balance, and if properly installed it would
last 40-50 years. It won't last that long the way you are going to
have to do it (especially if the water sheds the coving onto end-
grain), but I'd guess you'd get at least 10 years out of it before it
started looking too tatty.

Ipe is probably the best of the affordable (and sustainable) tropicals
and is widely available in decking form which is usually reversible
with a plain side. At a guess - 20 or 30 years, but those are all
complete guesses.

[robgraham]

I did this ot the bottom couple of weatherboards on my recent
workshop. The concrete floor was contained within a low concrete
block wall. I used the plastic spacers from Screwfix to space the
timbers off the concrete and ordinary screws.

Rob.