Extension leads & cement mixers..

[jim]

How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?

Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

TIA
--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

[Rod Speed]

jim <k> wrote

> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead
> to run whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?

Depends on the wire used in the extension lead.

I never had any problem with 100' or so.

Most cement mixers aren't all that aggressive start current
wise and that is the main area that matters in your situation.

> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

Heavier lead for the extension lead less
voltage drop when the mixer is starting.

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <I8adncHaGuX9-r_K...@brightview.co.uk>,

jim <k> writes:
> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?

What's the power rating, or better still, the VA rating of
the cement mixer?

You can always use a thicker cable to compensate, but that
can get very expensive. 2.5mm² leads are available with
combo connectors (that cable won't normally fit in 13A plug
cord grips).

If you run a lead that's too long, there are two issues:
Voltage drop will reduce the power of the motor. You need to be
careful that the motor still has enough starting torque to start
turning, or it may burn out.
An electrical fault might not pass enough current to blow the
extention lead fuse. Using an RCD will provide replacement
protection for earth faults (and you should do this anyway),
but you may still have a situation where the current flow on
a short circuit is enough to damage the cable before the fuse
blows. Reducing the fuse rating will help here providing the
cement mixer will still start and run without blowing it.

> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

Generator?

Readymix delivery?

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, 28 April 2016 20:41:23 UTC+1, jim wrote:
> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?

depends

> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

several

[jim]

and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) Wrote in message:

> In article <I8adncHaGuX9-r_K...@brightview.co.uk>,
> jim <k> writes:
>> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
>> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>
> What's the power rating,

Belle spec says 0.75 hp /0.55kw if that helps...

or better still, the VA rating of
> the cement mixer?
>
> You can always use a thicker cable to compensate, but that
> can get very expensive. 2.5mm² leads are available with
> combo connectors (that cable won't normally fit in 13A plug
> cord grips).

How long ish would 2.5mm get me?
I can work around that aspect if necessary.

> If you run a lead that's too long, there are two issues:
> Voltage drop will reduce the power of the motor. You need to be
> careful that the motor still has enough starting torque to start
> turning, or it may burn out.
> An electrical fault might not pass enough current to blow the
> extention lead fuse. Using an RCD will provide replacement
> protection for earth faults (and you should do this anyway),
> but you may still have a situation where the current flow on
> a short circuit is enough to damage the cable before the fuse
> blows. Reducing the fuse rating will help here providing the
> cement mixer will still start and run without blowing it.

Thanks for notes.

>> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>
> Generator?

Mmm previous query on here pointed me to needing a 4/4.5 kva
genny? As cheap to buy a petrol mixer!

> Readymix delivery?

Not good access, not enough m3 per session to keep price down.

Cheers

[jim]

tabb...@gmail.com Wrote in message:

Settling in at Homoowners hub nige? :-)

[Tim Watts]

On 28/04/16 20:41, jim wrote:
> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>
> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>
> TIA
>

How long do you need?

[jim]

Tim Watts <tw_u...@dionic.net> Wrote in message:

100m?

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 28/04/16 20:41, jim wrote:

> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>
> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>
> TIA
>

I've done 100 meters


--
A lie can travel halfway around the world while the truth is putting on
its shoes.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, 28 April 2016 23:03:07 UTC+1, jim wrote:
> Tim Watts <tw_u...@dionic.net> Wrote in message:
> > On 28/04/16 20:41, jim wrote:

> >> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> >> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
> >>
> >> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

> > How long do you need?

> 100m?

is that all? Do your own calcs if you know what you're talking about.


NT

[jim]

The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> Wrote in message:

> On 28/04/16 20:41, jim wrote:
>> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
>> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>>
>> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>>
>> TIA
>>
> I've done 100 meters

With...
?

[jim]

tabb...@gmail.com Wrote in message:

Go to bed nigel & try to wake up a nicer boy :-)

Now I wonder if "newsbitch" will put in an appearance to complete
the mini troll fest?:-D :-D

Tap washers on standby...

[polygonum]

On 28/04/2016 20:41, jim wrote:
> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>
> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>
> TIA
>

Back in the days of rotating power cuts, school would put on a film to
keep everyone together and not in the dark. They used a very long lead
and a transformer to step the voltage back up to what the projector
needed. Think it was a variable transformer borrowed from the physics lab.

Might not be up to a cement mixer.

--
Rod

[Tim Watts]

On 29/04/16 00:48, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 28/04/16 20:41, jim wrote:
>> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
>> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>>
>> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>>
>> TIA
>>
> I've done 100 meters
>
>

Just checked TLC volt drop calculator - 1.5mm2 flex will drop around
0.13V/m at an assumed 1kW load so at 100m the OP will have 13V lost
which is OK (not within the regs for fixed wiring, but more than fine
for a machine with a rough simple motor.)

So a heavy duty 13A extension should do the job.

[jim]

Tim Watts <tw_u...@dionic.net> Wrote in message:

Thanks Tim I'll have a play with that calculator :-)

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <I8adncHaGuX9-r_K...@brightview.co.uk>,

jim <k> wrote:
> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?

Depends on the extension cable used. Most are rated at 13 amp over a
relatively short distance, so approx 1.5mm. If you want a longer run, use
larger cable. 2.5mm flex would be the norm, and easy to obtain.

> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

> TIA

--

*I finally got my head together, now my body is falling apart.

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[whisky-dave]

On Thursday, 28 April 2016 20:41:23 UTC+1, jim wrote:

> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>
> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)

Ask Harry you can ue wind, solar or plain wishfull thinking :-)

[F Murtz]

Instead of playing with calculators, just plug it in and see (unless you
still have to get the mixer)

[Tim Watts]

I disagree - it's a simple enough thing to calculate and 1.5mm2 whilst
marginal, it almost certainly going to be fine with a 1kW load. If in
doubt, 2.5mm flex will have ample headroom on a much bigger load.

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 29/04/16 06:44, jim wrote:
> The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> Wrote in message:
>> On 28/04/16 20:41, jim wrote:
>>> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
>>> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>>>
>>> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>>>
>>> TIA
>>>
>> I've done 100 meters
>
>
> With...
> ?
>

a long extension cable on a reel and a concrete mixer?


--
You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a
kind word alone.

Al Capone

[David]

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 20:41:21 +0100, jim wrote:

> How far could I reasonably expect a mains extension lead to run
> whilst successfully running an 240v cement mixer?
>
> Any other ways to increase that? (apart from petrol ;-)
>
> TIA

I had the unworthy thought of a double ended socket strip (as opposed to
the usual single ended) with two mains leads and two plugs so you can plug
it into two separate sockets and effectively create a mini ring main.

To make this worthwhile it would have to be cheaper than just running a
single thicker lead.

Of course, IANAE.

Cheers

Dave R

--
Windows 8.1 on PCSpecialist box

[The Natural Philosopher]

A standard 50m heavy duty extension cable-on-a-reel works fine, as will
two in series. Volt drop is NOT exceptional on these .

Only issue I had was driving a lot of load over one that remained coiled
up on the reel. It got hot, smoked and shorted.

But for a concrete mixer? That's barely half a horsepower for a small
one, certainly less that 3A overall.

Especially running on low load




--
If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will
eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such
time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic
and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally
important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for
the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the
truth is the greatest enemy of the State.

Joseph Goebbels

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <r8tbvc-...@squidward.local.dionic.net>,

Standard guideline max lengths for 13A extension leads to
ensure low enough impedance for rapid fuse blowing are:
1.25mm² 12 metres
1.5mm² 15 metres
2.5mm² 25 metres (these are nice and easy to remember)

If you reduce the extension lead plug fuse, you can scale
these up proportionally, e.g.

2.5mm² 25 metres with 13A fuse
2.5mm² 32 metres with 10A fuse
2.5mm² 46 metres with 7A fuse
2.5mm² 65 metres with 5A fuse
2.5mm² 108 metres with 3A fuse

Cement mixer will probably blow (or overheat) a 3A fuse,
but it might work with a 5A fuse. Stretching that to 100m
is not very far out of spec (and if the supply impedance
is low, that would compensate).

Like I said before, make sure you use an RCD at the supply
end of the extension cable.

Another option would be to buy a 100m real of 4mm² cable.
Depending how long its going to be in place, what the site
conditions are, who else is going to be there, etc, you
could buy 4mm² SWA or tough cable. Cheapest would be
4mm² T&E, but it's also the most fragile.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <nfvmnj$vdq$1...@dont-email.me>,

Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> Standard guideline max lengths for 13A extension leads to
> ensure low enough impedance for rapid fuse blowing are:
> 1.25mm² 12 metres
> 1.5mm² 15 metres
> 2.5mm² 25 metres (these are nice and easy to remember)

Makes you wonder how we got away with 2.5mm radials and a 20 amp fuse in a
house. ;-)

--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things? *

[Tim Watts]

On 29/04/16 13:38, David wrote:

And when you unplug one plug and have it in your hand?

[The Natural Philosopher]

You better hope that your RCD works


--
"When one man dies it's a tragedy. When thousands die it's statistics."

Josef Stalin

[tabb...@gmail.com]

It's one of those asking diyers about electricals thread.


NT

[Andy Burns]

David wrote:

> I had the unworthy thought of a double ended socket strip

> Of course, IANAE.

Just as well :-)

[dennis@home]

On 29/04/2016 15:00, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

>> And when you unplug one plug and have it in your hand?
>
> You better hope that your RCD works
>
>

You just need an RCD plug at each end. ;-)

There will be lots of leads like that next year when people start
connecting their little generators to the mains.

Who is going to bother with a changeover switch?

[ARW]

"dennis@home" <den...@nowhere.invalid> wrote in message
news:5723c008$0$45771$b1db1813$2874...@news.astraweb.com...

Well I do on the ones I wire up (bloody expensive for what you get those
switches though). I also wire them to run the CH.


--
Adam

[Tim Watts]

And there is a simpler way for the DIYer - which is run a dedicated
radial around to a few key points, near the CH wiring, internet router
and perhaps the fridge (though modern fridges can survive quite moderate
outages if you don't keep opening them).

Supply that radial from a UPS that itself is plugged into the mains.
Or terminate the radial somewhere that a generator can be run and double
up the sockets - ie generator socket next to mains socket.

CH on 13A plug - unplug and replug into the other socket.

It's not automatic, it's not as elegant, but it's simple to retro fit
and generally foolproof.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <q76evc-...@squidward.local.dionic.net>,

Tim Watts <tw_u...@dionic.net> wrote:
> And there is a simpler way for the DIYer - which is run a dedicated
> radial around to a few key points, near the CH wiring, internet router
> and perhaps the fridge (though modern fridges can survive quite moderate
> outages if you don't keep opening them).

> Supply that radial from a UPS that itself is plugged into the mains.
> Or terminate the radial somewhere that a generator can be run and double
> up the sockets - ie generator socket next to mains socket.

> CH on 13A plug - unplug and replug into the other socket.

> It's not automatic, it's not as elegant, but it's simple to retro fit
> and generally foolproof.

Or just make up a few extension leads to run from the genny to the bits
you actually need. Label them up and keep them just for that job.

All I've done here is an inverter to run the CH from a car battery. Low
current stuff so easy to insert a changeover relay. Did it all many years
ago, and never been used in anger.

--
*I'm pretty sure that sex is better than logic, but I can't prove it.

[dennis@home]

On 30/04/2016 09:16, Tim Watts wrote:
> On 30/04/16 07:49, ARW wrote:
>> "dennis@home" <den...@nowhere.invalid> wrote in message
>> news:5723c008$0$45771$b1db1813$2874...@news.astraweb.com...
>>> On 29/04/2016 15:00, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>
>>>>> And when you unplug one plug and have it in your hand?
>>>>
>>>> You better hope that your RCD works
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> You just need an RCD plug at each end. ;-)
>>>
>>> There will be lots of leads like that next year when people start
>>> connecting their little generators to the mains.
>>>
>>> Who is going to bother with a changeover switch?
>>
>>
>> Well I do on the ones I wire up (bloody expensive for what you get those
>> switches though). I also wire them to run the CH.
>>
>>

I know I bought a cheap lidl gen and want it to run the lights,
fridge/freezer, ch so a changer over on the meter feed is the correct
solution.
I was looking at

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125-amp-changeover-switch-240V-mains-to-generator-transfer-single-phase-Din-rail/272117440663

I assume I need a lead with an earth neutral link for the generator but
I have yet to check the actual generator to see if its already done.

> And there is a simpler way for the DIYer - which is run a dedicated
> radial around to a few key points, near the CH wiring, internet router
> and perhaps the fridge (though modern fridges can survive quite moderate
> outages if you don't keep opening them).
>
> Supply that radial from a UPS that itself is plugged into the mains.
> Or terminate the radial somewhere that a generator can be run and double
> up the sockets - ie generator socket next to mains socket.
>
> CH on 13A plug - unplug and replug into the other socket.
>
> It's not automatic, it's not as elegant, but it's simple to retro fit
> and generally foolproof.

I think you will want an online UPS for that, a line interactive UPS may
not correct the cr@p cheap generators chuck out.

[Johnny B Good]

Even the more expensive Online UPSs may not be proof against the real
issue with 'cheap genset' kit. The problem, as I outlined in great detail
a few months ago, isn't 'dirty' waveform and noise in such mechanically
driven AC generators, it's the effect of quite modest levels of leading
(capacitive) current on the genset's voltage regulation which can send
the output voltage well north of the 275v mark on a nominal 230v rms ac
genset in spite of the AVR's best efforts to maintain control over the
genset's output voltage.

Leading current loading voltage instability is problem common to all
such 'conventional' generators, even the gensets used by the PSUs (Public
Supply Utilities). I once owned a 2.8KVA (2500W) rated emergency
generator with plans to use it to backup my 2KVA (1500W) SmartUPS2000
which I had connected to a seperate "Protected Supply" circuit for use by
my desktop and server PCs and other critical IT kit.

Once I *finally* worked out why the UPS kept cycling endlessly between
'battery' and genset power, I abandoned my project to include the
lighting circuits in the genset only emergency backup feed and sold the
genset on to my step son who had a less critical use for it.

I'm now considering the *only* viable option now that I can afford to
consider spending 600 quid or so on a decent 3KVA 'Inverter' type genset,
the only type that is immune to the leading current induced voltage
instability effect.

Although this is some 4 times the price of the conventional 2.8KVA
gensets which are sold by Aldididdle from time to time, it does have the
virtue of stable voltage output in the face of leading current loadings
typical of the older UPSes and most IT kit along with the ability to run
the prime mover at varying speeds in accordance with demand which both
improves fuel economy and reduces the noise level under light loadings.

--
Johnny B Good

[dennis@home]

A decent online UPS should cope with that sort of thing. However it
would cost more than getting a decent generator in the first place.

>
> I'm now considering the *only* viable option now that I can afford to
> consider spending 600 quid or so on a decent 3KVA 'Inverter' type genset,
> the only type that is immune to the leading current induced voltage
> instability effect.
>
> Although this is some 4 times the price of the conventional 2.8KVA
> gensets which are sold by Aldididdle from time to time, it does have the
> virtue of stable voltage output in the face of leading current loadings
> typical of the older UPSes and most IT kit along with the ability to run
> the prime mover at varying speeds in accordance with demand which both
> improves fuel economy and reduces the noise level under light loadings.
>

I decided 1kW would be enough and bought the little £130 lidl one that
is an inverter type and supposedly has sin wave output.

[ARW]

"dennis@home" <den...@nowhere.invalid> wrote in message

news:57247f28$0$5769$b1db1813$1367...@news.astraweb.com...

> On 30/04/2016 09:16, Tim Watts wrote:
>> On 30/04/16 07:49, ARW wrote:
>>> "dennis@home" <den...@nowhere.invalid> wrote in message
>>> news:5723c008$0$45771$b1db1813$2874...@news.astraweb.com...
>>>> On 29/04/2016 15:00, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>> And when you unplug one plug and have it in your hand?
>>>>>
>>>>> You better hope that your RCD works
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You just need an RCD plug at each end. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> There will be lots of leads like that next year when people start
>>>> connecting their little generators to the mains.
>>>>
>>>> Who is going to bother with a changeover switch?
>>>
>>>
>>> Well I do on the ones I wire up (bloody expensive for what you get those
>>> switches though). I also wire them to run the CH.
>>>
>>>
>
> I know I bought a cheap lidl gen and want it to run the lights,
> fridge/freezer, ch so a changer over on the meter feed is the correct
> solution.
> I was looking at
>
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125-amp-changeover-switch-240V-mains-to-generator-transfer-single-phase-Din-rail/272117440663
>
> I assume I need a lead with an earth neutral link for the generator but I
> have yet to check the actual generator to see if its already done.

Cheaper than this!

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGM125CS.html

Yes you will need an earth neutral link. I usually do it in the lead from
the genny.

I usually power the incomer from the genny to the house with

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash16slash3A.html


--
Adam

[damdu...@yahoo.co.uk]

On Sun, 1 May 2016 08:11:15 +0100, "ARW"
<adamwa...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:



>Cheaper than this!
>
>https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGM125CS.html

That is a lot cheaper than I paid for a changeover switch also from
TLC about 12 to 15 years ago when they only seemed to have one type
available which may have been a previous version of the 4 pole one
below the one linked.

>

>
>I usually power the incomer from the genny to the house with
>
>https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GW240slash16slash3A.html

After Dad died and the farm put up for sale one of the prospective
purchasers took a look at the identical one we had installed in the
Porch and then via the estate agent whinged about the extremely
dangerous electric socket he had seen "installed the wrong way around"
and wanted a hundred quid knocked off to get removed. So we removed it
and the cable to the switch ourselves. Eventually this finicky bloke
did buy the house and while showing him what did what came the
question "what does that switch do " Well it was for legally
connecting the generator kept over the yard in the shed. We were going
to leave for free as it is heavy but as you asked for the socket to be
removed we sold the generator to the removal man who saw it on his
visit to cost the job.
Nice little set it was, 8 kva with a 2 cylinder Petter engine and at
one time powered tall lighting columns at Motorway road works.

G.Harman

[Johnny B Good]

On Sat, 30 Apr 2016 21:20:40 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

> On 30/04/2016 21:03, Johnny B Good wrote:

====snip====

>>
>> Once I *finally* worked out why the UPS kept cycling endlessly between
>> 'battery' and genset power, I abandoned my project to include the
>> lighting circuits in the genset only emergency backup feed and sold the
>> genset on to my step son who had a less critical use for it.
>
> A decent online UPS should cope with that sort of thing. However it
> would cost more than getting a decent generator in the first place.

I agree but that doesn't really help. My line interactive 2KVA UPS
'coped' with the unfortunate genset's susceptibility to the 9 microfarad
capacitive loading of its mains input circuitry (and it only needed
4.7microfarads loading to send the genset's output no-load voltage north
of the 275 volt mark). Unfortunately, my UPS's 'coping' mechanism was
rather counter-productive to my requirement that the genset act as a
substitute mains supply whilst it remained ready to take over in the
event of the genset supply being interrupted or the tank running dry.

Quite possibly, some designs of on-line UPS may avoid such high
capacitive loading on their mains input but even the more modest loadings
from a PC or three started to indicate the same problem. It was clear
that, quite simply put, my bargain basement genset, in common with all of
its ilk regardless of quality, was totally unsuited to my purpose. :-(

>
>
>> I'm now considering the *only* viable option now that I can afford to
>> consider spending 600 quid or so on a decent 3KVA 'Inverter' type
>> genset,
>> the only type that is immune to the leading current induced voltage
>> instability effect.
>>
>> Although this is some 4 times the price of the conventional 2.8KVA
>> gensets which are sold by Aldididdle from time to time, it does have
>> the virtue of stable voltage output in the face of leading current
>> loadings typical of the older UPSes and most IT kit along with the
>> ability to run the prime mover at varying speeds in accordance with
>> demand which both improves fuel economy and reduces the noise level
>> under light loadings.
>>
>>
> I decided 1kW would be enough and bought the little £130 lidl one that

> is an inverter type and supposedly has sine wave output.

Ah! I missed that one (I think). Possibly I may have just discounted it
on the grounds of insufficient KVA rating. The smaller the genset, the
higher the fuelling costs per watt hour of produced power. There's an
optimum balance point between minimum and maximum power requirements.

Otoh, you want to avoid being too under-powered yet otoh, you don't want
to have too much excess reserve. At least with inverter based units, you
can afford to be a little more generous in your estimated requirements
provided the genset incorporates 'eco-throttle' as most such inverter
gensets tend to do ('eco-throttle' is effectively a signature feature of
inverter gensets in general).

The last time I was checking out cheaper alternatives to Honda's classic
e-3000 inverter genset about a year or two back, I was looking at prices
around the 600 quid mark, considerably cheaper than the £1400 plus asking
price of a Honda e-3000. At the time, even this was a lot more than the
£170 or so that I'd paid for that 2.8KVA genset from Aldi a year or two
earlier.

It's not that I need the rock solid purity of a crystal frequency
controlled pure sinewave generator to power my UPS protected supply to
feed my IT kit so much as it's the only way to avoid this issue of
outragous voltage instability with classic gensets and modestly
capacitive loads.

If it were just the expected matter of poor voltage regulation over the
range 220 to 240v rms on a nominal 230v rms genset along with indifferent
frequency stability -/+3% along with harmonic distortion and stator slot
winding noise, I'd be served well enough in my endeavour to generate
emergency mains voltage power.

Unfortunately, the only way to avoid this capacitive loading voltage
stability issue is to go for the far more expensive inverter option and
take solace from the fact that I'll get a (generally) quieter and more
fuel efficient genset as well as the OTT stability of voltage and
frequency and a supply that's far cleaner than the mains will ever be.

BTW, if you want to verify the purity of that 1KVA Lidl genset, just
sample the voltage with a low voltage transformer (something like an
older 6vac wallwart will suffice) and either feed it to an oscilloscope
or else attenuate it down to the hundred millivolt level with a simple
resistor network to feed into the line input of a PC or laptop's sound
card and use an audio app to record it and then examine the recorded
waveform.

It's the very technique I've used in the past (both of them, 'scope then
later on, a laptop with an actual line in port - most laptops only have a
mic input port which is just too sensitive for this particular job).

--
Johnny B Good

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <55786b4...@davenoise.co.uk>,

"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> writes:
> In article <nfvmnj$vdq$1...@dont-email.me>,
> Andrew Gabriel <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>> Standard guideline max lengths for 13A extension leads to
>> ensure low enough impedance for rapid fuse blowing are:
>> 1.25mm² 12 metres
>> 1.5mm² 15 metres
>> 2.5mm² 25 metres (these are nice and easy to remember)
>
> Makes you wonder how we got away with 2.5mm radials and a 20 amp fuse in a
> house. ;-)

Remember, this is potentially added on to the end of such a circuit.

[David]

I confess to a certain amount of tongue in cheek ;-)

[jim]

and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) Wrote in message:

Many thanks Andrew & to all for their help.

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/