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Lightening dark stained beams?
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Lobster
Apr 26, 2014, 2:17:56 PM4/26/14
to
Currently embarking on a major refurb of the living room.
There are two stonking timber beams across the ceiling (about 8" square
by 13' long), which a previous owner has covered with a very dark, shiny
varnish of some sort: http://oi58.tinypic.com/2hs42zl.jpg
It Has Been Decreed that these beams should be rendered paler and
natural; AFAIK they are pitch pine, so in theory ought to look like this
fireplace lintel, which was made from original timber taken from
elsewhere in the (100-year-old) house:
http://oi59.tinypic.com/15n603m.jpg
Anyone got any bright ideas how to do this? I can't imagine any form of
chemical stripper is going to get them back to natural colour; and
sanding that amount of area at that height seems a non-starter too.
It's difficult not knowing what sort of varnish (or whatever) has been
used before
Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
Thanks for any input...
--
David
There are two stonking timber beams across the ceiling (about 8" square
by 13' long), which a previous owner has covered with a very dark, shiny
varnish of some sort: http://oi58.tinypic.com/2hs42zl.jpg
It Has Been Decreed that these beams should be rendered paler and
natural; AFAIK they are pitch pine, so in theory ought to look like this
fireplace lintel, which was made from original timber taken from
elsewhere in the (100-year-old) house:
http://oi59.tinypic.com/15n603m.jpg
Anyone got any bright ideas how to do this? I can't imagine any form of
chemical stripper is going to get them back to natural colour; and
sanding that amount of area at that height seems a non-starter too.
It's difficult not knowing what sort of varnish (or whatever) has been
used before
Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
Thanks for any input...
--
David
Bob Minchin
Apr 26, 2014, 2:37:38 PM4/26/14
to
will have soaked in to some extent. Messy job but sand blasting would do
the trick.
The Natural Philosopher
Apr 26, 2014, 2:42:37 PM4/26/14
to
Only sure way.
--
Ineptocracy
(in-ep-toc’-ra-cy) – a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.
Adrian
Apr 26, 2014, 2:48:52 PM4/26/14
to
On Sat, 26 Apr 2014 19:37:38 +0100, Bob Minchin wrote:
>> Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
>> Thanks for any input...
> The only way will be to take some material away as the stain/varnish
> will have soaked in to some extent. Messy job but sand blasting would do
> the trick.
Sand-blasted old timber always looks godawful, usually found in stripped-
>> Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
>> Thanks for any input...
> The only way will be to take some material away as the stain/varnish
> will have soaked in to some extent. Messy job but sand blasting would do
> the trick.
back "theme pubs".
But probably not as bad as veneer...
Lobster - if veneering them'd be acceptable, wouldn't painting them?
Somebody's painted the beams in a few of our rooms - more of a wash than
a coat of paint, and it looks very, very good.
Phil L
Apr 26, 2014, 2:51:28 PM4/26/14
to
is going to be time consuming and quite likely unsuccesful.
I'd clad them in 9X1 (or whatever) and apply a clear, matt varnish.
Failing that, I'd clad them with plasterboard, fill and sand, then paint
white or whatever colour the ceiling's going to be
stuart noble
Apr 26, 2014, 3:03:26 PM4/26/14
to
comes off on the paper, your varnish is probably an alkali soluble resin
which, in theory, is strippable in situ.
harryagain
Apr 27, 2014, 2:27:28 AM4/27/14
to
"Lobster" <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:XnsA31BC45461325d...@81.171.92.236...
The only way to get it off is by chemical stripping.
Do a small area first so you can see what you get.
Tedious job. Some stuff comes off in lumps, other turns into glue (bloody
awful to remove.)
And ideal job for She Who Has Decreed.
It will be a good lesson WRT any further decrees that may be in the
pipeline.
Tim Lamb
Apr 27, 2014, 4:23:39 AM4/27/14
to
In message <ljgv2k$cg0$1...@speranza.aioe.org>, Adrian
<tooma...@gmail.com> writes
We have similar supporting Pitch Pine beams in our Victorian farmhouse.
At some point, possibly 1938, they had been coated with a product called
*Darkaline*. When we renovated the place in 1995 this was cleaned off.
Unfortunately I can't remember the actual technique used.
Either heating with a hot air blower and scraping with a triangular
scraper or the original Nitromors plus scraping. The rest succumbed to
an orbital sander.
Although described as a *stain* there was very little actual penetration
of the wood.
--
Tim Lamb
<tooma...@gmail.com> writes
At some point, possibly 1938, they had been coated with a product called
*Darkaline*. When we renovated the place in 1995 this was cleaned off.
Unfortunately I can't remember the actual technique used.
Either heating with a hot air blower and scraping with a triangular
scraper or the original Nitromors plus scraping. The rest succumbed to
an orbital sander.
Although described as a *stain* there was very little actual penetration
of the wood.
--
Tim Lamb
stuart noble
Apr 27, 2014, 5:35:20 AM4/27/14
to
>
> No chemical will get them so pale,
to bare wood that's the problem
meow...@care2.com
Apr 27, 2014, 6:05:20 AM4/27/14
to
Tim mentioned 1930s darkaline. I suspect that would be aniline dye; if so its susceptibilities can be looked up.
NT
JimK
Apr 27, 2014, 9:15:36 AM4/27/14
to
Never tried but aren't there some poultice like stripping products that you slap on cover with cling film and leave for days then peel off?.....
Jim K
Jim K
stuart noble
Apr 27, 2014, 11:40:24 AM4/27/14
to
synthetic products are unaffected. And, if they do work, very difficult
to stop them obeying the laws of gravity
Harry Bloomfield
Apr 27, 2014, 11:58:16 AM4/27/14
to
Tim Lamb formulated the question :
I had some success with a rotary wire brush. It left the wood surface
rather uneven, due to variations in hardness due to the growth, but
once re-varnished the effect was quite good.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
rather uneven, due to variations in hardness due to the growth, but
once re-varnished the effect was quite good.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
JimK
Apr 27, 2014, 1:36:15 PM4/27/14
to
Ahem
For e.g.
"PeelAway® products remove up to 32 coats of paint in one application and are Ideal to remove emulsion and dispersion paints, household paints, polyurethane coatings, shellac, epoxy coatings, acrylic, 2 component paints, powder coatings, glazes, marine coatings, taar oil combinations, lead based paint, graffiti, industrial coatings, fire protection coating and wax staining from facades (facade), windows, brick walls, sandstone, lime stone, steel, copper, aluminium, brass, metal, wood, pipelines, bridges, concrete, stone, masonry, fireplaces (fireplace) and glass."
Jim K
For e.g.
"PeelAway® products remove up to 32 coats of paint in one application and are Ideal to remove emulsion and dispersion paints, household paints, polyurethane coatings, shellac, epoxy coatings, acrylic, 2 component paints, powder coatings, glazes, marine coatings, taar oil combinations, lead based paint, graffiti, industrial coatings, fire protection coating and wax staining from facades (facade), windows, brick walls, sandstone, lime stone, steel, copper, aluminium, brass, metal, wood, pipelines, bridges, concrete, stone, masonry, fireplaces (fireplace) and glass."
Jim K
JimK
Apr 27, 2014, 1:37:19 PM4/27/14
to
I had some success with a rotary wire brush. It left the wood surface
rather uneven, due to variations in hardness due to the growth, but
once re-varnished the effect was quite good./
rather uneven, due to variations in hardness due to the growth, but
ITYM angle grinder :-)
Jim K
stuart noble
Apr 27, 2014, 2:42:54 PM4/27/14
to
based product so I guess they've switched the formulation to the
non-hazardous (and some would say non-working) eco-friendly gel stuff.
Same applies about working overhead though. If it's dissolving the
surface coating, how do you keep it up there?
JimK
Apr 27, 2014, 2:53:08 PM4/27/14
to
Seems you need to visit their website to update/avail yourself of the details... ;^)
Jim K
Jim K
Martin Brown
Apr 28, 2014, 4:10:26 AM4/28/14
to
On 26/04/2014 19:17, Lobster wrote:
> Currently embarking on a major refurb of the living room.
>
> There are two stonking timber beams across the ceiling (about 8" square
> by 13' long), which a previous owner has covered with a very dark, shiny
> varnish of some sort: http://oi58.tinypic.com/2hs42zl.jpg
>
> It Has Been Decreed that these beams should be rendered paler and
> natural; AFAIK they are pitch pine, so in theory ought to look like this
> fireplace lintel, which was made from original timber taken from
> elsewhere in the (100-year-old) house:
> http://oi59.tinypic.com/15n603m.jpg
>
> Anyone got any bright ideas how to do this? I can't imagine any form of
> chemical stripper is going to get them back to natural colour; and
> sanding that amount of area at that height seems a non-starter too.
> It's difficult not knowing what sort of varnish (or whatever) has been
> used before
You are going to have to experiment to discover what is there and how
>
> There are two stonking timber beams across the ceiling (about 8" square
> by 13' long), which a previous owner has covered with a very dark, shiny
> varnish of some sort: http://oi58.tinypic.com/2hs42zl.jpg
>
> It Has Been Decreed that these beams should be rendered paler and
> natural; AFAIK they are pitch pine, so in theory ought to look like this
> fireplace lintel, which was made from original timber taken from
> elsewhere in the (100-year-old) house:
> http://oi59.tinypic.com/15n603m.jpg
>
> Anyone got any bright ideas how to do this? I can't imagine any form of
> chemical stripper is going to get them back to natural colour; and
> sanding that amount of area at that height seems a non-starter too.
> It's difficult not knowing what sort of varnish (or whatever) has been
> used before
much material you will have to take off to get to original wood. It
might not be that bad but to work at height you will need a platform and
a fairly potent sander. You might get most of it off with a hot air gun
and a scraper provided that you don't scorch the wood and then sand to
get the last bits. Chemicals might work but you will need good eye
protection and rubber gloves and the results can be uncertain.
Whatever you decide to do try it out on a hard to see corner first!
>
> Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
> Thanks for any input...
Up to you I suppose but original wood will look better. Pitch pine can
> Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
> Thanks for any input...
have nice detail grain if sanded back but it is incredibly tedious.
The only worry is that the dark stain is there for a reason and the
underlying wood looks like it has been through the wars.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
Thomas Prufer
Apr 29, 2014, 4:04:09 AM4/29/14
to
On Sat, 26 Apr 2014 18:17:56 GMT, Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
>Thanks for any input...
Consider if "woodgraining" it would be an option? (There must be a better term
than "woodgraining wood" -- but google does find what I mean.)
This making a faux woodgrain effect with pigments and binders. Originally it
would have been done with a pale oil base paint to match the lightest bit of the
wood you are traying to imitate. Then the darker bits were added. (Originally
using a mix of pigment in stale beer: This allows the grain to be worked, wiped
off, redone until satisfactory, and it would dry to s surprisingly resistant
finish.)
A lighter base, darker oil glaze and a paintbrush will also do. I was admiring
nice wainscoting once, complete with panels with symmetrical grain patterns
where the boards were sawn and joined. Then noted that the woodgrain did not
match the run of the wood, and that it also extended across the metal hinges...
all done with a bit of paint:-)
So that would mean practice a bit, paint it, done.
(Anything is better than sanding overhead. Tried that, using a large belt sander
on a ladder...)
Thomas Prufer
wrote:
>Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
>Thanks for any input...
than "woodgraining wood" -- but google does find what I mean.)
This making a faux woodgrain effect with pigments and binders. Originally it
would have been done with a pale oil base paint to match the lightest bit of the
wood you are traying to imitate. Then the darker bits were added. (Originally
using a mix of pigment in stale beer: This allows the grain to be worked, wiped
off, redone until satisfactory, and it would dry to s surprisingly resistant
finish.)
A lighter base, darker oil glaze and a paintbrush will also do. I was admiring
nice wainscoting once, complete with panels with symmetrical grain patterns
where the boards were sawn and joined. Then noted that the woodgrain did not
match the run of the wood, and that it also extended across the metal hinges...
all done with a bit of paint:-)
So that would mean practice a bit, paint it, done.
(Anything is better than sanding overhead. Tried that, using a large belt sander
on a ladder...)
Thomas Prufer
John Williamson
Apr 29, 2014, 6:04:40 AM4/29/14
to
On 29/04/2014 09:04, Thomas Prufer wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Apr 2014 18:17:56 GMT, Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
>> Thanks for any input...
>
> Consider if "woodgraining" it would be an option? (There must be a better term
> than "woodgraining wood" -- but google does find what I mean.)
>
Scumbling. HTH.
> On Sat, 26 Apr 2014 18:17:56 GMT, Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Was wondering about cladding them in veneer or something?
>> Thanks for any input...
>
> Consider if "woodgraining" it would be an option? (There must be a better term
> than "woodgraining wood" -- but google does find what I mean.)
>
It's still used a lot on narrowboats in the traditional style back cabins.
--
Tciao for Now!
John.
Lobster
Jun 13, 2014, 8:29:25 AM6/13/14
to
On 27 Apr 2014, JimK <jk98...@gmail.com> grunted:
> "PeelAway� products remove up to 32 coats of paint in one application
Looks an interesting product, having explored their website. I suspect it
wouldn't work for me , since as somebody pointed out upthread, the stuff is
likely to have penetrated the timber.
Thanks for all the replies to my query. There are a few I'd like to try but
I'm loathe to experiment as there's nowhere invisible where I can check
them out, without bollocksing up the beam if I decide it has to stay as it
is.
We have these beams in two other rooms; in one of which we've kept them
dark, and in the other we painted them pale. Those look shite!
I'd be up for hiring someone to do this job
--
David
> "PeelAway� products remove up to 32 coats of paint in one application
wouldn't work for me , since as somebody pointed out upthread, the stuff is
likely to have penetrated the timber.
Thanks for all the replies to my query. There are a few I'd like to try but
I'm loathe to experiment as there's nowhere invisible where I can check
them out, without bollocksing up the beam if I decide it has to stay as it
is.
We have these beams in two other rooms; in one of which we've kept them
dark, and in the other we painted them pale. Those look shite!
I'd be up for hiring someone to do this job
--
David
Lobster
Jun 13, 2014, 8:40:02 AM6/13/14
to
On 13 Jun 2014, Lobster <davidlobs...@hotmail.com> grunted:
That's bloody weird - I remember writing the above - unfinished - post
months ago, and it's just appeared here!
(Never have sorted out my beams - still keep looking at them and scratching
my head...)
--
David
months ago, and it's just appeared here!
(Never have sorted out my beams - still keep looking at them and scratching
my head...)
--
David
stuart noble
Jun 13, 2014, 9:02:58 AM6/13/14
to
Tim Lamb
Jun 13, 2014, 2:19:58 PM6/13/14
to
In message <XnsA34B8B0BA3DA1d...@81.171.92.236>, Lobster
<davidlobs...@hotmail.com> writes
Scrape it off and sand the beam. Here is one I did earlier:-)
http://s828.photobucket.com/user/TimLamb/library/
That was *Darkaline* on pitch pine.
The *joists* are superficial: old pine, grit blasted and then screwed to
the underside of the real floor joists.
>
--
Tim Lamb
<davidlobs...@hotmail.com> writes
http://s828.photobucket.com/user/TimLamb/library/
That was *Darkaline* on pitch pine.
The *joists* are superficial: old pine, grit blasted and then screwed to
the underside of the real floor joists.
>
--
Tim Lamb
tonya_davidson
Apr 5, 2016, 12:44:04 PM4/5/16
to
replying to stuart noble, tonya_davidson wrote:
what is "washing soda"?
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lightening-dark-stained-beams-969281-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface to
uk.d-i-y and other home improvement groups
what is "washing soda"?
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lightening-dark-stained-beams-969281-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface to
uk.d-i-y and other home improvement groups
Tim Watts
Apr 5, 2016, 1:47:54 PM4/5/16
to
On 05/04/16 17:44, tonya_davidson wrote:
> replying to stuart noble, tonya_davidson wrote:
> what is "washing soda"?
>
>
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-washing-soda.htm
> replying to stuart noble, tonya_davidson wrote:
> what is "washing soda"?
>
>
Rod Speed
Apr 5, 2016, 4:20:20 PM4/5/16
to
tonya_davidson <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote
> what is "washing soda"?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_carbonate
> what is "washing soda"?
tabb...@gmail.com
Apr 6, 2016, 2:37:33 AM4/6/16
to
On Tuesday, 5 April 2016 17:44:04 UTC+1, tonya_davidson wrote:
> replying to stuart noble, tonya_davidson wrote:
> what is "washing soda"?
> posted from
> replying to stuart noble, tonya_davidson wrote:
> what is "washing soda"?
> http://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lightening-dark-stained-beams-969281-.htm
home owners hub needs to learn about google.
NT
damdu...@yahoo.co.uk
Apr 6, 2016, 4:02:21 AM4/6/16
to
answer like Na2CO3 and would need counseling.
G.Harman
RandyGarno
Feb 9, 2022, 8:31:55 PM2/9/22
to
Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lightening-dark-stained-beams-969281-.htm
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy/lightening-dark-stained-beams-969281-.htm
Brian Gaff (Sofa)
Feb 10, 2022, 2:29:57 AM2/10/22
to
Blimey that was a long time ago...
I remember in a very old building in the town centre here, the shop who
leased te ground floor lightened the look of the beams and the people from
the council told them it was a conservation area, and they should not have
done so. Round that part of town you even need to ask the council what type
and look of new windows you put in.
Brian
--
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"RandyGarno" <af7391cbb77a1aa8...@example.com> wrote in message
news:16d248aa6880acc7$1$3275790$4006...@news.newsgroupdirect.com...
I remember in a very old building in the town centre here, the shop who
leased te ground floor lightened the look of the beams and the people from
the council told them it was a conservation area, and they should not have
done so. Round that part of town you even need to ask the council what type
and look of new windows you put in.
Brian
--
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"RandyGarno" <af7391cbb77a1aa8...@example.com> wrote in message
news:16d248aa6880acc7$1$3275790$4006...@news.newsgroupdirect.com...
The Natural Philosopher
Feb 10, 2022, 5:13:34 AM2/10/22
to
On 10/02/2022 01:31, RandyGarno wrote:
> Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and
> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
>
buy a belt sander and a shed full of sanding papers for it
> Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and
> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
>
And learnto read calendars
--
It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled.
Mark Twain
Vir Campestris
Feb 10, 2022, 4:48:06 PM2/10/22
to
On 10/02/2022 10:13, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 10/02/2022 01:31, RandyGarno wrote:
>> Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and
>> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
>>
> buy a belt sander and a shed full of sanding papers for it
>
Err then you end up with _smooth_ beams which would not be at all in
> On 10/02/2022 01:31, RandyGarno wrote:
>> Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and
>> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
>>
> buy a belt sander and a shed full of sanding papers for it
>
character. In fact some of ours have cracks inches deep which someone
has carefully worked paint into.
I've heard the best technique is sand blasting, but using dry ice. And
it required the house to be emptied.
> And learnto read calendars
>
With you there ;)
Andy
Max Demian
Feb 11, 2022, 7:42:07 AM2/11/22
to
On 10/02/2022 01:31, RandyGarno wrote:
> Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and
> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
What's between the beams? White painted plaster, or wattle and daub?
> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
--
Max Demian
RandyGarno
Feb 11, 2022, 9:45:07 AM2/11/22
to
White painted plaster. But it’s artex so will be looking to re plaster at some point in the future
The Natural Philosopher
Feb 11, 2022, 12:11:23 PM2/11/22
to
It makes a godawful mess, and leaves the grain all scored. Better to
belt sand and then add the grain in later with some coarse sandpaper!
--
“Ideas are inherently conservative. They yield not to the attack of
other ideas but to the massive onslaught of circumstance"
- John K Galbraith
Andrew
Feb 11, 2022, 2:11:45 PM2/11/22
to
On 10/02/2022 01:31, RandyGarno wrote:
> Lobster - did you ever get the beams sorted? just bought a cottage and
> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
>
White paint.
> every bloody room has dark beams in it. Any tips welcome
>
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