Gluing washing machine plastic?
Jan Wysocki
tray have snapped off! There's sufficient overlap that I expect that
I can glue the drawer front back on. Can anyone suggest what type of
plastic is used and what glue(s) may be suitable? Superglue won't stand
the humidity and contact adhesives won't work because the components
need to be slid together.
--
Jan
Speaking from a Virtual Pleasure Garden in E1
Frank Erskine
<tara...@vortex.ukshells.co.uk> had this to say:
>The clips that hold the front (pull handle) onto the detergent dispenser
>tray have snapped off! There's sufficient overlap that I expect that
>I can glue the drawer front back on. Can anyone suggest what type of
>plastic is used and what glue(s) may be suitable? Superglue won't stand
>the humidity and contact adhesives won't work because the components
>need to be slid together.
If anything will work for that, epoxy such as Araldite would be your
best bet. Try to avoid the quick-setting version, and thoroughly
clean the plastic surfaces of soap, grease and so on before you start.
--
Frank Erskine
David
wrote:
> If anything will work for that, epoxy such as Araldite would be your
> best bet. Try to avoid the quick-setting version, and thoroughly
> clean the plastic surfaces of soap, grease and so on before you start.
Is there also a case for roughening the mating surfaces with sandpaper
befor applying the glue?
Andy Cap
>The clips that hold the front (pull handle) onto the detergent dispenser
>tray have snapped off! There's sufficient overlap that I expect that
>I can glue the drawer front back on. Can anyone suggest what type of
>plastic is used and what glue(s) may be suitable? Superglue won't stand
>the humidity and contact adhesives won't work because the components
>need to be slid together.
The handle of my Dyson recently broke and rather doubtfully, I bought a tube of
Ever Build Plasbond 65, Liquid plastic So far it seems to have worked in this
high-stress situation, but I guess results very much depend on the plastic in
question.
Andy C
Dave Plowman (News)
Jan Wysocki <tara...@vortex.ukshells.co.uk> wrote:
> The clips that hold the front (pull handle) onto the detergent dispenser
> tray have snapped off! There's sufficient overlap that I expect that
> I can glue the drawer front back on. Can anyone suggest what type of
> plastic is used and what glue(s) may be suitable? Superglue won't stand
> the humidity and contact adhesives won't work because the components
> need to be slid together.
I've found Evostick Serious glue sticks most flexible plastics pretty well.
Takes about 24 hours to set fully, though.
--
*Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> The clips that hold the front (pull handle) onto the detergent dispenser
> tray have snapped off!
If you can extract the bits there will be a triangular recycling mark
somewhere that indicates the plastic it's moulded from. There will
either be an acronym: "PP" is polypropylene, or a numeric code (Google
it). Knowing this, you can find a solvent adhesive that will stick
it. Polystyrene is easy, ABS is easy if you get the right solvent
(MEK alone won't work), PVC is poor mechanically but workable for
sealing. To be honest, these solvents are all awkward to get hold of,
so you're likely to end up using the same adhesive for ABS solvent
weld plumbing from a plumber's merchant, just because it's all you can
get. Not Travis Perkins though, as they're four times the price of
Toolstation!
Otherwise a good epoxy. Roughen the surface for a key first, try to
add a mechanical brace with aluminium strip and self-tappers first.
The Natural Philosopher
CAR BODY FILLER
..which I used to repair a washing machine drim that sheraed its blocks
off. I glued em back on !
I am not saying it is a perfect joiunt by any means, but its better than
epoxy.
Almost nothing works well with polythenes.
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> Actually I have found the epoxies dot stick as well to plastic as :
>
> CAR BODY FILLER
Well of course - for some polymers at least. Anything that solvent
welds easily and compatibly with polystyrene (so ABS too) is going to
bond pretty easily with "GRP" and its polyester or styrene-based ilk.
However if your base material is from that group, then you can
probably just solvent weld it easily anyway.
Jan Wysocki
> On 28 July, 22:35, Jan Wysocki <taraso...@vortex.ukshells.co.uk>
> wrote:
>> The clips that hold the front (pull handle) �onto the detergent dispenser
>> tray have snapped off! �
>
> If you can extract the bits there will be a triangular recycling mark
> somewhere that indicates the plastic it's moulded from. There will
> either be an acronym: "PP" is polypropylene, or a numeric code (Google
> it). Knowing this, you can find a solvent adhesive that will stick
> Otherwise a good epoxy. Roughen the surface for a key first, try to
> add a mechanical brace with aluminium strip and self-tappers first.
Thanks to all for the suggestions, this post proved most useful.
I've just examined the two parts and found the recycling marks. I got
excited when I found "ABS". Before this discussion, I hadn't realised
that there were solvents for ABS, but now I see that my Marley plumbers
cement is suitable for ABS and PVC. However, the other part is made of
polypropylene:-( Now I understand why they used clips!
Evo Stik Serious Glue was mentioned, I've now looked at the data sheets
for this and Sticks Like Sh*t (their asterisk), but both of these and
Araldite specifically state that they won't bond to polypropylene.
I'm thinking of trying a combination of thorough scoring with wet or dry
paper, meticulous degreasing, Dow Corning 744 and self tapping screws -
provided I can find some made of stainless steel.
I'll try gluing a test piece to the underside first, before comitting
myself.
I'll report back if it fails and I resort to replacement Zanussi spare
parts.
--
Jan
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> specifically state that they won't bond to polypropylene.
Polypropylene is about as awkward as polyethylene. There are some
specific adhesives for them, but even these aren't wonderful. I'd go
with screws.
For some large pieces of PP, it's easier to hot weld it. This is quite
easy if you have a hot-air welding gun - people who do car bodywork
do.
PeterC
Many years ago I had to construct a small plating line from PP - the tanks
were about 75 cm cube, IIRC. I tried a hot-air gun but it slightly charred
the PP; not sure if this would have caused a joint to fail, but with lots
of chemicals and v. hot water involved... Got a cylindre of nitrogen and
used that - perfect joints every time (after a bit of practice). Not really
viable for home use though.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.
Andy Dingley
> > For some large pieces of PP, it's easier to hot weld it. This is quite
> > easy if you have a hot-air welding gun - people who do car bodywork
> > do.
>
> Many years ago I had to construct a small plating line from PP - the tanks
> were about 75 cm cube, IIRC. I tried a hot-air gun but it slightly charred
> the PP;
You need a real hot air welder. I don't know the differences of
temperature and airflow in detail, but you can repair car bodywork
(bumpers etc) with the real one in a way that just doesn't work when
you try to hack it with a paint stripper or a heatshrink gun.
Old Git
<tara...@vortex.ukshells.co.uk> wrote:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Stainless+Steel+Screws/d90/sd810
http://www.screwfix.com/cats/A231359/Screws/Self-Tapping-Screws
Jan Wysocki
I have to join a polypropylene drawer to an ABS drawer front,
so welding is out.
--
Jan
The Natural Philosopher
Three and a half things have worked for me with polyolefins
If its a large surface evostik old fashioned solvent based contact
Car body filler
Hot glue.
Epoxy half works.
Andrew Gabriel
The Natural Philosopher <t...@invalid.invalid> writes:
>
> Three and a half things have worked for me with polyolefins
> If its a large surface evostik old fashioned solvent based contact
No longer available. There's something claiming to be it still
around, but it has a different solvent, and doesn't work anything
like as well as original evostick used to. Apparently EU banned
the original solvent.
> Car body filler
> Hot glue.
> Epoxy half works.
I had an unexpected success repairing a hinge pin which snapped
off an internal freezer compartment door. I held the two broken
ends over a small gas flame for a moment until the surface
melted, and then pushed them together. Seems to be better than
it was originally, having now lasted much longer than it did
before it broke.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
george (dicegeorge)
> ends over a small gas flame for a moment until the surface
> melted, and then pushed them together. Seems to be better than
> it was originally, having now lasted much longer than it did
> before it broke.
>
patent it!
[g]
Andy Dingley
> No longer available. There's something claiming to be it still
> around,
528?
> but it has a different solvent, and doesn't work anything
> like as well as original evostick used to. Apparently EU banned
> the original solvent.
Any idea which solvents these were?
Andrew Gabriel
Toluene, although I don't know if the evostik solvent was
only toluene or a mixture of things.
Jan Wysocki
> On 2009-07-29, Andy Dingley <din...@codesmiths.com> wrote:
>> On 28 July, 22:35, Jan Wysocki <taraso...@vortex.ukshells.co.uk>
>> wrote:
>>> The clips that hold the front (pull handle) �onto the detergent dispenser
>>> tray have snapped off! �
>>
>> If you can extract the bits there will be a triangular recycling mark
>> somewhere that indicates the plastic it's moulded from. There will
>> either be an acronym: "PP" is polypropylene, or a numeric code (Google
>> it). Knowing this, you can find a solvent adhesive that will stick
> [snip]
>> Otherwise a good epoxy. Roughen the surface for a key first, try to
>> add a mechanical brace with aluminium strip and self-tappers first.
>
> Thanks to all for the suggestions, this post proved most useful.
>
> I've just examined the two parts and found the recycling marks. I got
> excited when I found "ABS". Before this discussion, I hadn't realised
> that there were solvents for ABS, but now I see that my Marley plumbers
> cement is suitable for ABS and PVC. However, the other part is made of
> polypropylene:-( Now I understand why they used clips!
Oops, I LIED! I actually examined a previous version of the same washing
machine assuming that the changes would just be the usual marketing
inspired bollox, I've just examined the actual washing machine and
find that they've actually changed the tray from polypropylene to
"Euro Carboran". I've been Googling carboran/carborane but haven't
found anything useful abooout glues or solvent welding. I've abraded
the underside of the real item and applied a piece of scrap ABS to it
with epoxy resin. I'll see how well it's stuck in the morning, If the
joint fails, I'll pick up some Serious Glue from Robert Dyas and try that.
Andrew Gabriel
Jan Wysocki <tara...@vortex.ukshells.co.uk> writes:
>
> Thanks to all for the suggestions, this post proved most useful.
>
> I've just examined the two parts and found the recycling marks. I got
> excited when I found "ABS". Before this discussion, I hadn't realised
> that there were solvents for ABS, but now I see that my Marley plumbers
> cement is suitable for ABS and PVC.
However, it works much better with PVC than it does ABS.