Fitting iron air brick
Rob
about fitting an air brick here:
http://patchoulian.googlepages.com/airbrick
I intend to fit the 17.5" x 7.5" plate sold here:
http://www.castironairbricks.co.uk/products.htm
Although the wall is about 2 foot thick I have got reasonable access to
the other side via the cellar. Couple of questions:
While the house is listed, I'm not fanatical about preserving something
as inconspicuous as an air brick - I chose this because it fits and it
looks better than a traditional brick-with-holes. It is quite expensive
though - about �50 delivered. Any alternative sources for something similar?
I can't figure out a 'work flow' for installing it. As it is the vent
will have to sit below ground level - well, it won't have to but I want
to maximise the ventilation. A bed of stiff mix (just one of those
little bags of cement/sand?), plonk it on flush to the external wall,
but I can't see how to 'render' around the 1-2" gap - is there a
technique for doing this?
Thanks, Rob
Dave Plowman (News)
Rob <patchoul...@gmail.com> wrote:
> While the house is listed, I'm not fanatical about preserving something
> as inconspicuous as an air brick - I chose this because it fits and it
> looks better than a traditional brick-with-holes. It is quite expensive
> though - about �50 delivered. Any alternative sources for something
> similar?
My local BM - Travis Perkins - had cast iron ones in stock. The normal
'two brick' sized one wasn't expensive. About a tenner, IIRC.
--
*Filthy stinking rich -- well, two out of three ain't bad
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Rad
Dear Rob
Air vents (I do not use bricks) should be 80% air and 20% material
They should be as high up on the outside of the wall as feasible and
low down under the floor so the hole should be angled down from above
I understand that you just want to fill up this hole as is - sensible
I would if I were you not bother to go ott and would purchase two 9" x
9" off the peg square vents normally cast ali or the like from a
builder's merchant and plonk them in side by side
I would most certainly buy some insect mesh and use that inside
Mount them on mortar or a stone slip as high up as possible and you
could drill and screw in a few non ferrous screws as a stop in the top
and sides
One can be put in really well and the last one can be put in against
some render stop that you have put on around the screws and built up
before you place the final one in situ with a buttering of mortar.
Chris
NT
You're legally requierd to replace any existing one wih the same type.
As the wall looks stone, you should use lime mortar, 3 parts sand to 1
part builders lime. And yes, it will almost certainly be legally
required. Its easier to work with too.
NT
Rob
Thanks everyone - a trip to the builders' merchant it is.
And sorry, it's not 'listed' as I said but in a conservation area, but
your point remains valid.
As my plan hardly 'changes the character' of the area, I think it'll be
OK, conscience notwithstanding.
I had a planner round the other day for something, and we got chatting
about the rash of unauthorised changes on my street and beyond -
particularly concrete/thermoplastic tiles on roofs, UVPC cheapo double
glazing, and replacing the wooden gutters with plastic. He said they
wouldn't enfocre any planning requirements unless notified, and even
then it'd be touch-go depending on the staff available.
Rob
adrian budd
brick installation. it is
www.castironairbricks.com
geoff
<sa...@castironairbricks.com> writes
>we have a website with installation photos and procedures for cast iron air
>brick installation. it is
www.anotherspamsite.crap
And we have an anti spam policy
fuck off
--
geoff
Steve Firth
> we have a website with installation photos and procedures for cast iron air
> brick installation. it is
Please send abuse reports to ab...@btbroadband.com
Andy Dingley
> we have a website with installation photos and procedures for cast iron air
> brick installation. it is www.castironairbricks.com
Thanks for responding to a thread that already made direct reference
to a product that you sell. I certainly don't see this as "spam".
geoff
writes
"Adrian I must apologise
I saw you post as originating the thread
I didn't see that it was a response to an old expired post no longer on
my system"
me bad ...
--
geoff
NT
Thanks for the helpful link. The only thing I'd mention is that using
mastercrete on grade 2 listed buildings is contrary to SPAB advice,
and unlikely to be legal.
NT
Adrian
We don't recommend sealing around the cast iron with adhesive, just
dabs in the corners to bond it in place.
Trouble is installing cast iron air bricks with just lime mortar will
take too long to set especially in winter. This could be a major
problem if the air bricks are accessible along a street as they can
end up being kicked in or pulled out
NT
> On 22 Nov, 01:08, NT <meow2...@care2.com> wrote:
>
> > On Nov 21, 4:02 pm, "adrian budd"<sa...@castironairbricks.com> wrote:
>
> > > we have a website with installation photos and procedures for cast iron air
> > > brick installation. it iswww.castironairbricks.com
>
> > > url:http://myreader.co.uk/msg/1391145123.aspx
>
> > Thanks for the helpful link. The only thing I'd mention is that using
> > mastercrete on grade 2 listed buildings is contrary to SPAB advice,
> > and unlikely to be legal.
>
> > NT
>
> We don't recommend sealing around the cast iron with adhesive, just
> dabs in the corners to bond it in place.
still illegal
> Trouble is installing cast iron air bricks with just lime mortar will
> take too long to set especially in winter. This could be a major
> problem if the air bricks are accessible along a street as they can
> end up being kicked in or pulled out
the usual approach is to add 5% cement to the mix
NT