At present I have the bathroom wc connected to a standard plastic
internal soil pipe- about 20 years old. Downstairs I have another wc
which connects directly to a pipe set into the toilet floor. However,
I want to replace the downstairs wc with a close-coupled unit. The
existing hole in the floor is too far forward and would require me to
box-out the wall to rest the new cistern against.
My query is simple. The existing soil pipe goes through the
downstairs loo right past the toilet. Can I connect the new wc to the
existing soil pipe using a suitable boss? I have have reasonable
access to the soil pipe to fit the new boss. The soil pipe disappears
into the floor with no apparent joint at floor level. I am not sure
how far down the soil pipe goes below ground.
If I can connect to the soil pipe what is the best method for blocking
up the existing floor drain bearing in mind that the new pan will sit
over part of the old drain? The new cistern has no holes to screw it
to the wall and the whole toilet relies on the two pan screws. I have
fitted the same toilet in the bathroom with absolutely no problems.
Will I need to take precautions against damp? I will be flooring the
toilet with ceramic tiles.
Thanks in advance,
Alan Darlington
However, I would be concerned about the old connection into the floor. It
really should go into a manhole nearby probably with a another connection
coming from your internal soil stack. The connection to the ground floor WC
can then be sealed off in the manhole and the into floor branch filled and
sealed with concrete.
If you don't have access to the junction of the into floor branch I would
sooner box out for the new suite and leave the existing drainage alone.
cheers
Bob
"Alan Darlington" <alan.da...@marconi.com> wrote in message
news:6265d6d6.02060...@posting.google.com...
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your advice. Boxing out would really look naff and I feel
that it's worth the effort to use the existing soil pipe - provided
it's done kosher of course. The boss collar solution doesn't exist but
the new branch and slip collar stand a good chance. I have been
assured that the whole soil pipe won't drop if a cut a section out but
I will check for retention clips and fit extra ones if necessary.
The outlet for the toilet is paved over in the drive so I would need
to block the waste pipe from the inside. The new pan will only sit
over part of the hole so there will be virtually no load on the filled
in waste especially as the large ceramic floor tiles will help
distribute the load.
Cheers,
Alan
I am thinking about fitting an ensuite toilet in a bedroom situated next to
a bathroom i.e. a toilet on either side of the dividing wall.
The existing internal soil pipe is in the cavity between the bathroom floor
and the kitchen ceiling, and is connected horizontally into the boss on the
stench pipe. It is not easily accessible, and there is no scope for another
boss in the vertical plane.
The original pan uses a 90º multiquick down into a 90º bend on the end of
the horizontal soil pipe.
Is it permissible to just replace this bend with a branch which continues
"horizontally" to connect to the second pan? I think that there may be a
problem with venting / syphonage.
Thanks,
Colin
> Is it permissible to just replace this bend with a branch which continues
> "horizontally" to connect to the second pan? I think that there may be a
> problem with venting / syphonage.
>
That's how they are in the little boy's room here (at work) I suspect
it would work at home to.
<OB apocraphal story>
My father in law tells the story of some public lavs in Liverpool
which were a very large diameter pipe (2 foot ish) laid horizontaly
with holes cut in the top and seats fitted. Aparently, every so often
some joker would stuff blazing newspaper in the upper end of the pipe
and it would float down under the backsides of the users!
Suppose they didn't eat curries in those days.
--
* If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular? *
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn
Yes - but do you have an SV stack? i.e. does this 110mm pipe extend above
highest discharge point ?
If not you may need to fit an AAV to prevent siphonage of traps.
> If I can connect to the soil pipe what is the best method for blocking
> up the existing floor drain
Make a temporary stopper, and top it off with concrete - rough up the inside
of the pipe with a saw blade or similar to give the concrete a grip.
You can buy special rubber sealing bungs - but if you never want to use it
again - concrete is OK.
Rick