Repairing rotten barge board ends

[inv...@nowhere.com]

A while ago I noticed that the end of one of the barge boards looked a
bit sick - had a good look at it today and for a few inches near the end
it's soft enough to poke a screwdriver through. The rest of the board,
the other B.boards, and the fascias are scruffy but sound; soffits near
the rotten barge board will need replacing but are otherwise OK.
The question is: how to repair the barge board?
The woodwork is stained brown so if I just cut the end off the
replacement will be obvious and the butt join will let water in.
Replacing the whole B.Board will need scaffolding and be beyond what I'm
prepared to tackle. A move is possible so I don't want to spend a couple
of grand getting everything replaced with plastic.

This must be a standard problem - what's the answer?

[Rod Speed]

<inv...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:dllg66...@mid.individual.net...

Replace the barge board.

[Phil L]

A couple of grand? - I don't know how much plastic is where you live, but I
can get a 5m length of woodgrain effect capping board for about £25.
You'll need maybe 3 to go up both sides, two corner caps and three straight
joints and a small pack of brown plastic headed SS nails. Expect change out
of a hundred and two people can put it up in 45 minutes

[ss]

Scotland, I got gutters (60 feet) replaced, downpipes, and plastic
barge (60 feet) for £500,
I had to pay cause I wont go up a ladder, no they didnt use scaffolding.

[inv...@nowhere.com]

The soffit strip is almost certainly nailed to the top of the bargeboard
so I would probably have to re-bed the end tiles if I replaced the whole
thing - a job I would not tackle.

[inv...@nowhere.com]

The house is about 12m long, with a sizeable single storey bit that
would need doing to match. As a rough guesstimate I would need nearly
40m of fascia capping, plus the bargeboards and soffits. There is no
ladder access to one of the gable ends so that would need scaffolding.
Overall, not something I want to tackle when most of the timber is OK.

[Phil L]

In that case, all you can do is cut out the rotten part and replace, then
stain to match.
Use frame sealant (not silicone) in the joint between the two

[Phil L]

Soffit strip? - do you mean the strip of fibre cement board that holds
cement underneath the tiles?

Soffit strip is a plastic ventilated strip which is affixed to the back of
the fascia board and the soffit board slides into it, this is to allow
ventilation into the roof space.

The fibre cement board above the barge board is called undercloaking and
it's not usually fixed to the barge boards

[inv...@nowhere.com]

OK, a plan is forming.
Use a multi-tool to cut-out most of the rotten timber, with a bevel on
the cut edge so that the joint will be slightly scarfed
Use Ronseal Wet Rot Wood Hardener to stabilise any dodgy wood that I
can't remove.
Fix some treated battens up the back of the good board to support the
new timber.
I'm tempted to use a PU adhesive in the joint - is Everbuild Lumberjack
Polyurethane Wood Glue any good?

Does this seem like a reasonable plan?

[inv...@nowhere.com]

Yup, I meant the fibre cement board. I've never had to work on it so
don't really know what I'm talking about (nothing new in that ;-) ) but
found some references to it being called soffit strip (seemed strange to
me but I went with it) and to it being nailed to the barge board ...
thanks for putting me right.

[Stuart Noble]

You could try leaving the rotten stuff in place and impregnating it with
resin, either in paste form (car body filler) or as a liquid (fibreglass
repair resin). Once you've got something to cure inside the wood, the
rest should be easy.
I don't fancy the Ronseal Wood Hardener as I believe it's no longer a 2
part product, but probably a single pack moisture curing polyurethane.
Not as effective IME

[inv...@nowhere.com]

The Ronseal website doesn't mention mixing it with anything so you're
right. The woodwork is stained, rather than painted, so I don't think I
can get away with a filler because it would look wrong - also, I'd be
concerned about whether it would stay attached to the wood.

[Rod Speed]

<inv...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:dlni3a...@mid.individual.net...

Then pay someone to do it. Not going to cost much.