Increasing the width of rebate in a door frame
Roger Mills
would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.
Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?
I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
angle grinder! <g>) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?
TIA.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Tabby
> I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
> would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.
>
> Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?
>
> I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
> angle grinder! <g>) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
> way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
> against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
> very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?
>
> TIA.
Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.
NT
Cash
> On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills <watt.ty...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
>> would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.
Roger,
Replying through Tabby as I have killfiled all Google and Gmail posts to
reduce spam.
How much extra is the door thickness?
>> Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?
>>
>> I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than
>> an angle grinder! <g>) might be appropriate - but what would be the
>> best way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter
>> running against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router
>> wouldn't get very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?
>>
>> TIA.
Personally, I prefer (and have done many) to use a hand rebate plane on the
bulk of the rebate removal, and then use a nosing plane and/or sharp paring
chisel to clean out one the corners.
Can be a bit time consuming and arm-aching, but you have less chance of
doing damage to the frame than using an electric router - assuming that you
even have the space to wield one (unlikely and possibly a little dangerous
in my opinion).
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.
>
>
Tabby,
The rebate on a front door is usually machined on and *not* formed with a
'planted' door stop.
Cash
F Murtz
What timber strip? most door frames are a solid rebated piece of timber.
Jim K
can you "plant on" extra stripwood on the interior side of the frame
to increase the rebate depth that way?
Jim K
fred
A trimming router might be best as a full-on one can be awkward to
handle in a situation like this. Fix a fence to the frame and use a
straight bit and a guide ring. Finish of the corners with a corner
chisel and/or a bull nose plane.
Lie Nielsen make a nice little side rebate/ block plane which would do
the job.
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1274
Paul Mc Cann
MuddyMike
>> > I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
>> > would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.
>>
>> > Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?
>>
Now that is one job where I would call a joiner.
Mike
Skipweasel
7cac49...@d2g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>, meow...@care2.com says...
> Just lever the timber strip off, take it from there.
>
Not all frames are made thus. This house has the slamming strip included
in the main baulk. Dammit. Makes it a bastard if you've got a slightly
warped door.
--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.
stuart noble
> handle in a situation like this.
That's what I used. You can get pretty tight to the corners with an
offset belt driven shaft, but 5mm at a time is about all it will handle
depth wise.
pete
If the new door is wooden, it might be easier to remove a small amount of
material from the outer edge of the door, so that it fits the existing
frame. Just to the point where it would fit the frame - not off the entire
outside surface.
--
http://thisreallyismyhost.99k.org/1420110210210512573.php
John Rumm
> I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
> would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.
>
> Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?
Assuming the door stops are actually rebated into the frame (rather than
being loose strips fixed on after), I would go for a small trim router,
side fence, and a straight (fluted or possibly downcut spiral) cutter.
Use that as close into the corners as you can get, and then tidy up with
hand tools at the corners...
> I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than an
> angle grinder! <g>) might be appropriate - but what would be the best
> way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter running
> against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router wouldn't get
> very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?
Depends on how much needs taking off... chisel possibly, or a plane
iron. or Fein Multimaster wood raspyo get you close to a line and then
chisel / sand level.
--
Cheers,
John.
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Roger Mills
There ain't a strip! The rebate is cut into the frame - with the
non-door side being thicker than the door side.
Roger Mills
> Tabby wrote:
>> On Feb 13, 10:48 pm, Roger Mills<watt.ty...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I am contemplating replacing my front door with a thicker one - which
>>> would require the rebate in the frame to be made wider.
>
> Roger,
>
> Replying through Tabby as I have killfiled all Google and Gmail posts to
> reduce spam.
>
case anyone wants to reply directly.
> How much extra is the door thickness?
>
Probably 3-4 mm.
>>> Any clues as to how best to do this in situ?
>>>
>>> I would have thought that something involving a router (rather than
>>> an angle grinder!<g>) might be appropriate - but what would be the
>>> best way to control the width of cut? Maybe a bearing-guided cutter
>>> running against a temporary batten or somesuch? However, a router
>>> wouldn't get very close to the corners. How should these be tackled?
>>>
>>> TIA.
>
> Personally, I prefer (and have done many) to use a hand rebate plane on the
> bulk of the rebate removal, and then use a nosing plane and/or sharp paring
> chisel to clean out one the corners.
>
> Can be a bit time consuming and arm-aching, but you have less chance of
> doing damage to the frame than using an electric router - assuming that you
> even have the space to wield one (unlikely and possibly a little dangerous
> in my opinion).
>
Makes sense. Thanks.
Roger Mills
Mm - a bit pricey!
fred
<watt....@gmail.com> writes
sliding guide. It's difficult to do well as the router is heavy and
wants to flop about and a few machine marks are bound to be left by the
end of the cutter but these can be sanded out. The 50mm left at the
corners I took out carefully and gradually with a razor sharp chisel.
A straightforward job in softwood that is to be painted (and so could be
filled if things go awry) but I'd be wary on hardwood that was to be
left in a natural finish.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks
