Formula for teak oil
Alec Fry
expensive - is teak oil. I've often wondered if it's possible to make my
own, but I have never managed to discover the formula.
Recently I tried a mixture of 50% linseed oil and 50% white spirit which
seemed to work quite well. Does anyone know the "proper" formula, please - I
imagine there must be some sort of preservative or fungicide added.
Alec
john_h_schmitt
<Al...@frya.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>Something I use quite a lot - and which always seems
exorbitantly
>expensive - is teak oil. I've often wondered if it's possible to
make my
>own, but I have never managed to discover the formula.
I do not know, but it might be the oil pressed from teak wood
itself. The oil is sufficiently toxic to insects that they do not
attack the wood, which is why it is so prized. It may be mixed
with an unsaturated vegetable oil such as linseed, cottonseed or
tung. Looking at the price from Sigma, the chemical supply
company, they run at about 20 to 30 quid a litre. I think they
are prime oil, as rapeseed oil is in the same price range, and
the supermarkets seem to sell it for about 70p a litre. I think
that unless you want to buy the oils in less than 200l drums, you
are stuck with paying a fairly high price.
John Schmitt
* Sent from RemarQ http://www.remarq.com The Internet's Discussion Network *
The fastest and easiest way to search and participate in Usenet - Free!
bigegg
john_h_schmitt <joh...@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
> In article <8b8i6k$v0h$1...@news5.svr.pol.co.uk>, "Alec Fry"
> <Al...@frya.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >Something I use quite a lot - and which always seems
> exorbitantly
> >expensive - is teak oil. I've often wondered if it's possible to
> make my
> >own, but I have never managed to discover the formula.
>
> I do not know, but it might be the oil pressed from teak wood
> itself. The oil is sufficiently toxic to insects that they do not
> attack the wood, which is why it is so prized. It may be mixed
> with an unsaturated vegetable oil such as linseed, cottonseed or
> tung. Looking at the price from Sigma, the chemical supply
> company, they run at about 20 to 30 quid a litre. I think they
> are prime oil, as rapeseed oil is in the same price range, and
> the supermarkets seem to sell it for about 70p a litre. I think
> that unless you want to buy the oils in less than 200l drums, you
> are stuck with paying a fairly high price.
What is 'Teak Oil'?
ie, Is it a polish varnish to treat teak?
a -------"------ imitate teak?
other?
I can probably help, just need more info.
--
Big Egg
5. Don't make definitive statements or risk invoking rule 4a.
john_h_schmitt
<big...@hardboiled.org.uk> wrote:
>What is 'Teak Oil'?
It an air-drying oil which can be used on oily hardwoods. it does
not provide a surface coating as such, but soaks into the wood
before curing. It is non-peeling, and water resistant, and one of
its best features is that you simply need to apply a coat a year
in exterior situations, and never have to strip back.
>ie, Is it a polish varnish to treat teak?
It is neither a polish nor a varnish. Polishes almost invariably
contain a wax of some sort, and varnishes are surface coatings
containing no extender nor pigment. The finish is a subtle sheen,
which dulls with weathering.
>I can probably help, just need more info.
A cursory search of the web indicates most manufacturers do not
specify ingredients, but one manufacturer claims to use flaxseed
oil. As my previous post pointed out, it is an unsaturated,
oxygen-curing oil. The cost is high because the ingredients are
not cheap.
Ashley Phoenix
john_h_schmitt <joh...@mdx.ac.uk> wrote:
>A cursory search of the web indicates most manufacturers do not
>specify ingredients, but one manufacturer claims to use flaxseed
>oil.
=linseed oil.
Ash.
Stuart Noble
Ashley Phoenix wrote in message <0470528e.3ebf2e6a@usw-ex0101-
>=linseed oil.
Not the dearest of ingredients. I don't know whether teak oil would be based
on raw or boiled linseed (prob the latter) but I imagine it just has a
solvent with it to enable it to penetrate oily woods.
As the basis of most Victorian paint, linseed oil should form a good film,
though I read somewhere that it does contain minute "holes". Maybe it was
its microporous properties that have made it last so well.
ar...@my-deja.com
"Alec Fry" <Al...@frya.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> Something I use quite a lot - and which always seems exorbitantly
> expensive - is teak oil. I've often wondered if it's possible to make
my
> own, but I have never managed to discover the formula.
>
which
> seemed to work quite well. Does anyone know the "proper" formula,
please - I
> imagine there must be some sort of preservative or fungicide added.
Screwfix sell "Teak Oil" for 3.49 for 500ml. http://www.screwfix.com/
Aris
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
john_h_schmitt
Phoenix <ashleyphoe...@hotmail.com.invalid> wrote:
>>flaxseed oil.
>=linseed oil.
D'oh! I'll never get to grips with this transatlantic thing, will
I? Even with the advantage of having lived both sides of the
pond. :-(
John Schmitt
Russell Eberhardt
<Al...@frya.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
>Something I use quite a lot - and which always seems exorbitantly
>expensive - is teak oil. I've often wondered if it's possible to make my
>own, but I have never managed to discover the formula.
>
>Recently I tried a mixture of 50% linseed oil and 50% white spirit which
>seemed to work quite well. Does anyone know the "proper" formula, please - I
>imagine there must be some sort of preservative or fungicide added.
>
There have been some interesting replies to this question. I would
like to see anyone pressing oil from teak wood!:-)
However, as a number of people have suggested, the main ingredient is
linseed oil (=flaxseed oil, linum being latin for flax).
There is no single recipe and it varies greatly between brands.
Linseed oil polymerises by oxidation, in other words leave it out in
the open and it solidifies. It is a slow process for "raw" linseed
oil and it can take days to dry. Most people are not prepared to wait
that long for it to dry so a substance called "boiled linseed oil" is
sold. This is not boiled at all but contains chemical accelerators
that speed the oxidation/polymerisation process.
A small amount of a volatile solvent may be added but more than 20% is
not recommended. Some brands include pigments so that they darken the
wood and make inferior wood look more like teak but for treating teak
a clear oil should be used.
The main difference between linseed oil and teak oil in the shop is
price - after all if you can afford teak then you are rich!
To summarise:
If you can wait use raw linseed oil.
If you are in a hurry use boiled linseed oil.
If you have money to burn use teak oil.
PS.
On the exterior teak on my boat I use Cetol instead.
Regards,
Russell.
TO REPLY BY EMAIL:
Change nospam in reply address to iee
kgraham...@gmail.com
1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil
1/3 Varnish
1/3 Thinner
The problem I have now is in Southern Mexico I can not find Linseed Oil of any type. Nor Tung Oil. The only items I've found are coloring stains and Varnishes and Thinners. Also liquid poisons to treat against termites which are common and reason for Concrete houses and steel door frames.
Varnishes also seem to repel the termites
Tuesday, March 21, 2000 at 2:00:00 AM UTC-6, Alec Fry wrote:
> Something I use quite a lot - and which always seems exorbitantly
> expensive - is teak oil. I've often wondered if it's possible to make my
> own, but I have never managed to discover the formula.
>
> Recently I tried a mixture of 50% linseed oil and 50% white spirit which
> seemed to work quite well. Does anyone know the "proper" formula, please - I
> imagine there must be some sort of preservative or fungicide added.
>
harry
They used turpentine and linseed oil.
Pigments were things like oxides of lead, mercury, cyanide and arsenic.
harry
Dunno how effective it is or how long it lasts.
www.GymRatZ.co.uk
This has to be the record for oldest message dragged out of the archives
and responded to!
Your answer is almost 19 years late! I wonder if Alec is still looking
for an answer?
And it's not even a HomeownersHub response!
Nick Odell
Buenos Aires and find similar problems to you when I'm there. Where
abouts are you in Southern Mexico? A few years ago I caught a bus in
Ottawa, Canada and didn't stop catching buses until I reached Buenos
Aires, Argentina (we'll skip over Darien - I did) and spent a few very
pleasant days in the Southern Mexico border town of Tapachula.
It would be useful to have an idea of what sort of products you are
working with - for reasons of scale and practicality. In the mean time,
have you exhausted all possibilities on mercadolibre? Amazon USA ship to
Mexico and have a wide range of finishing materials available though
frankly, if getting goods delivered into Mexico from abroad is only half
as expensive and half as complicated as it is in Argentina then it's a
bloomin' nightmare.
If you can tell me more about your projects I'll see if I can come up
with some ideas.
Nick
Nick Odell
for an answer today but has only been able to dig up an old post on the
subject. BICBW
Nick
Brian Reay
> Wow...
>
> This has to be the record for oldest message dragged out of the archives
> and responded to!
> Your answer is almost 19 years late! I wonder if Alec is still looking
> for an answer?
>
rags/clothes used to apply it/clean up can burst into flames.
I always soak such rags etc in water before disposal but I'm curious if
anyone has ever seen it happen?
--
Smile for the camera ;-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxyL2_38EsQ
Remarkable Coincidences:
The Stock Market Crashes of 1929 and 2008 happened on the same
date in October. In Oct 1907, a run on the Knickerbocker Trust
Company led to the Great Depression.
Thomas Prufer
>I always soak such rags etc in water before disposal but I'm curious if
>anyone has ever seen it happen?
>
linseed oil and a mix of linseed oil/white spirits.
Nothing left but a large black burnt spot one day later. Sun and a it being a
warm day probably contributed; it was maybe a double fistful of rags.
Soak them in water, burn them, seal them in a tin, but don't chuck them in the
workshop corner with the sawdust and planer chips, under the shelf with the
lacquer thinner.
Thomas Prufer
noth...@aolbin.com
>
> 1/3 Boiled Linseed Oil
> 1/3 Varnish
> 1/3 Thinner
>
> The problem I have now is in Southern Mexico I can not find Linseed Oil of any type. Nor Tung Oil. The only items I've found are coloring stains and Varnishes and Thinners. Also liquid poisons to treat against termites which are common and reason for Concrete houses and steel door frames.
>
> Varnishes also seem to repel the termites
>
available (but maybe I watched too many westerns as a kid). Something
like Tru-oil gives an excellent finish.
TimW
> On 19/12/18 15:24, www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>> Wow...
>>
>> This has to be the record for oldest message dragged out of the archives
>> and responded to!
>> Your answer is almost 19 years late! I wonder if Alec is still looking
>> for an answer?
>>
>
>
> I wonder, teak oil generally has a warning on the container that
> rags/clothes used to apply it/clean up can burst into flames.
>
> I always soak such rags etc in water before disposal but I'm curious if
> anyone has ever seen it happen?
>
>
given it a good first coat of oil. I put all the used abrasives, dust
from the sander bags, oily rags etc in a bin liner and left it outside
the back door. a couple of nights later I was sitting at the kitchen
table reading the paper when I noticed a blazing fire just outside the
back door, with orange flames six foot in the air, which seemed to have
just appeared from nowhere.
The catalysts which are the drying agents in finishing oils will
generate some vigorous oxidisation in the right circumstances, and in my
case the combination of dust, oil, rags and the closed bag meant that it
got hot enough to really smoulder and once the outer bag melted and the
air got in - whoosh.
TW
Tim Lamb
harry <harry...@btinternet.com> writes
>
>
--
Tim Lamb
Tim Lamb
>> Wow...
>> This has to be the record for oldest message dragged out of the
>>archives
>> and responded to!
>> Your answer is almost 19 years late! I wonder if Alec is still looking
>> for an answer?
>>
>
>
>I wonder, teak oil generally has a warning on the container that
>rags/clothes used to apply it/clean up can burst into flames.
>
>I always soak such rags etc in water before disposal but I'm curious if
>anyone has ever seen it happen?
Welding sparks setting paper towels smouldering is another workshop
hazard.
>
>
--
Tim Lamb
newshound
area. DAMHIK.
Brian Gaff
Brian
--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"newshound" <news...@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote in message
news:wP-dnQ0MldA5woDB...@brightview.co.uk...
TimW
>>>
>>
> And angle grinder sparks will ignite polyester boiler suits in the groin
> area. DAMHIK.
TW
Tim Lamb
writes
--
Tim Lamb
Rod Speed
"Tim Lamb" <t...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:hvRiBxr4...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk...
Rob Morley
newshound <news...@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
> On 19/12/2018 20:03, Tim Lamb wrote:
> > Welding sparks setting paper towels smouldering is another workshop
> > hazard.
> And angle grinder sparks will ignite polyester boiler suits in the
> groin area. DAMHIK.
and grinding sparks I bought a leather apron.