Fluidmaster Cable Pushbutton Dual Flush Valve sticking
Stephen
I have a toilet that has a "Fluidmaster Cable Pushbutton Dual Flush
Valve" fitted.
http://www.fluidmasteruk.com/product/550073.aspx
It is fitted to a toilet from Screwfix. Screwfix supplied a no-name
valve and I can't remember what happened now but I ended-up replacing
it with this one. All went well for a while until this morning the
fluidmaster valve started playing-up; when flushed, the water kept
flowing and would not stop.
I tried to have a look on the internet for some help and I read that
sometimes scale can prevent the washer from making a complete seal. It
is a hard water area but I have run my finger around the washer and
the opposite surface and I can't see or feel anything there.
If I remove the valve from the toilet, it seems that when I press the
button, the washer lifts but does not fall. So I think the fault is
something sticking inside. I have had to isolate the toilet to prevent
water trickling all day. Fortunately we have a downstairs toilet that
we will have to use in the meantime.
Can you offer me any advice on what has happened and what to do to fix
it? I don't really want to be putting new valves in every couple of
years.
I am very tempted to go back to siphons only this cistern being button
operated has a hole in the lid rather than the side, which prevents me
from fitting a handle.
Thanks,
Stephen.
TheScullster
"Stephen" wrote
Hi Stephen
I had a similar experience not so long ago - only seemed to happen
occasionally.
Turned out it was the inlet float valve passing, filling the cistern to
overflow level, then overflowing into the pan via the flush valve.
Are you sure it's the flush valve and not the valve controlling water feed
into the cistern?
Phil
YAPH
> I have a toilet that has a "Fluidmaster Cable Pushbutton Dual Flush
> Valve" fitted.
>
> http://www.fluidmasteruk.com/product/550073.aspx
>
> It is fitted to a toilet from Screwfix. Screwfix supplied a no-name
> valve and I can't remember what happened now but I ended-up replacing it
> with this one. All went well for a while until this morning the
> fluidmaster valve started playing-up; when flushed, the water kept
> flowing and would not stop.
Funnily enough I had one yesterday on a Screwfix cheapie WC I'd installed
about (mumble) ago - less than a year I'm sure. The flush valve was
actually rebadged as MacDee but was basically the Fluidmaster (or maybe
Fluidmasters are rebadged MacDees - either way they're the same). I
fiddled with it awhile: it only stuck on full flush, and the cistern was
a bit cramped and maybe the bowden-type actuator cable was binding - it
was forced to come out of the drop valve body at a tight bend whichever
way one fitted the valve (it can go 2 ways, 180 degrees apart). It was
late and I cba fiddling around further and I had another on the van so I
just swapped it. That's 2 I've got now - another that was doing the same
thing a month or 2 back. They're supposed to be guaranteed so I'll try
calling Fluidmaster but it's a bit worrying if they are going to keep
going bad this way.
I did try a Delchem (Torbeck mfr) a while back but that was trouble too.
--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk
Women always generalise
Stephen
>Funnily enough I had one yesterday on a Screwfix cheapie WC I'd installed
>about (mumble) ago - less than a year I'm sure. The flush valve was
>actually rebadged as MacDee but was basically the Fluidmaster (or maybe
>Fluidmasters are rebadged MacDees - either way they're the same). I
>fiddled with it awhile: it only stuck on full flush,
Hello,
I can't remember what happened to the valve fitted by Screwfix but I
know I replaced it with a fluidmaster one, believing that the branded
one would be much more reliable. I thought fluidmaster had a good
reputation.
I have had one or two occasions where the flush sticks, and like your
experience, it has always been on full flush but pressing half flush a
few times has corrected it.
This time however, nothing seems to stop it. It is definitely the
valve not dropping. The water level is not high enough to overflow
because the cistern cannot fill; it is constantly trickling into the
pan. The inlet is a torbek valve which is clear of the sides and is
not binding.
Like you, I fear the only way is to replace the valve but I don't want
to be doing this too often.
Thanks,
Stephen.
Luke
> On 10 Jun 2011 21:39:23 GMT, YAPH <use...@yaph.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >Funnily enough I had one yesterday on a Screwfix cheapie WC I'd installed
> >about (mumble) ago - less than a year I'm sure. The flush valve was
> >actually rebadged as MacDee but was basically the Fluidmaster (or maybe
> >Fluidmasters are rebadged MacDees - either way they're the same). I
> >fiddled with it awhile: it only stuck on full flush,
>
>
> to be doing this too often.
>
> Thanks,
> Stephen.
I've had exactly the same experience with the Fluidmaster valves. I
found it quite amusing that on the side of the box, it proclaims,
"Replace your traditional siphon again and again, or replace it ONCE
with Fluidmaster!". Now, in my experience the traditional siphon
always gives years of dauntless, trouble-free service, requiring a new
membrame once in what, every ten years? Yet I have had two
Fluidmasters fail in 3 years. It has always exhibitied the same
symptoms - that of sticking open, allowing water to pass. Dismantling
and examining doesn't reveal much - but I'm guessing it's to do with
either wear or limescale.
Either way as the toilet is in a house I rent out, I have not bothered
trying to repair for the sake of £11 or £12 - I've just replaced and
left the tenants in peace. If the toilet didn't have a top mounted
push button flush then I'd be putting a traditional siphon in there.
Luke
Stephen
wrote:
> If the toilet didn't have a top mounted
>push button flush then I'd be putting a traditional siphon in there.
I could not have put it better myself.
Stephen.
philc...@metronet.co.uk
Phil
Graham.
wrote:
--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%
Brian-Gaff
Brian
--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
<philc...@metronet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:f2daa897-3813-4796...@googlegroups.com...
stacey....@gmail.com
I took the little screw out of the linkage where the button attaches to the cable and separated the wire from the plastic mechanism. I can see what you mean about the cable run through the plastic leaver, but in my case that looks fine. Pulling the wire directly I could see that the cable did not slide back in to the outer cable sheaf by itself, but with a little help it did go back and the plunger closed. I have sprayed some lubricant down the outer sheaf and made sure that the cable is not as twisted as it was. For the moment it is working again. Thanks for the advice.
Fluidmaster Push Button Cable Dual-Flush Valve 550073
j.a.col...@gmail.com
Graham.
wrote:
>Can I just twist the body off or do I have to remove the cistern
split the tank from the pan. Fit a new doughnut washer.
--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%
Tim+
> On Thu, 15 Oct 2015 10:58:37 -0700 (PDT), j.a.col...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Can I just twist the body off or do I have to remove the cistern
>
> If there the same as the Fluidmasters I fitted here, then you have to
> split the tank from the pan. Fit a new doughnut washer.
>
Tim
Greg
I can here the flapper when it falls. My system is the fluid master dou flush
but has the handle .It's a pull or push. I system is made to where you don't
see the flapper but it is inside acyl with lil adj knobs on top, but it's all
mounted inside the tank.
Any help with a quick help would as I don't want to switch out the complete
unit so soon. I am married to miss bean counter and she didn't like the cost
the first time.!!?
--
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