Repointing brickwork - grounds for an Angle Gringer ?
UPVC@invalid.invalid Mr UPVC
is not as robust as it should be, so I'd like a "low-impact" method of
raking out the existing mortar.
Is this a good excuse to buy an angle grinder, and if so which ones would be
suitable for occasional use, and which disks should I buy for mortar ?
Thanks
Andrew Gabriel
If it doesn't come out quite easily with a joint raker such as
http://turptech.co.uk/Jointraker_webpage.htm
then it probably doesn't need repointing.
People do use angle grinders, but they usually end up doing lots
of damage to the bricks.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
The Medway Handyman
> In article <4c20f7d7$0$32526$bed6...@gradwell.net>,
> "Mr UPVC" <Mr UP...@invalid.invalid> writes:
>> I've got a fair amount of brickwork that needs repointing. The wall
>> itself is not as robust as it should be, so I'd like a "low-impact"
>> method of raking out the existing mortar.
>>
>> Is this a good excuse to buy an angle grinder, and if so which ones
>> would be suitable for occasional use, and which disks should I buy
>> for mortar ?
>
> If it doesn't come out quite easily with a joint raker such as
> http://turptech.co.uk/Jointraker_webpage.htm
> then it probably doesn't need repointing.
Sorry to disagree, but those things are pretty much useless IMO. They don't
remove loose lumps of mortar that are breaking out, only powdery stuff.
> People do use angle grinders, but they usually end up doing lots
> of damage to the bricks.
It takes a little care obviously, but you can remove mortar with incredible
precision using a diamond disc.
BTDTGTTS
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
NT
> > "Mr UPVC" <Mr U...@invalid.invalid> writes:
> >> I've got a fair amount of brickwork that needs repointing. The wall
> >> itself is not as robust as it should be, so I'd like a "low-impact"
> >> method of raking out the existing mortar.
>
> >> Is this a good excuse to buy an angle grinder, and if so which ones
> >> would be suitable for occasional use, and which disks should I buy
> >> for mortar ?
>
> > If it doesn't come out quite easily with a joint raker such as
> >http://turptech.co.uk/Jointraker_webpage.htm
> > then it probably doesn't need repointing.
>
> Sorry to disagree, but those things are pretty much useless IMO. They don't
> remove loose lumps of mortar that are breaking out, only powdery stuff.
>
> > People do use angle grinders, but they usually end up doing lots
> > of damage to the bricks.
>
> It takes a little care obviously, but you can remove mortar with incredible
> precision using a diamond disc.
>
> BTDTGTTS
I think to give a good answer depends on the brickwork. Eg historic
brickwork normally uses very soft bricks, and anything hard enough to
need an angle grinder should normally be left alone.
4.5" Angle grinder with a diamond cutting disc is a quick way to
remove mortar, but real care is necesary to avoid doing a lot of brick
damage, and for old soft bricks avoiding them is the usual advice.
Any brand will do occasional use. Ability to do lots of work before
dying is what the low end machines dont have.
NT
stuart noble
A masonry bit in a drill works well enough at low speed. I've used the
solid carbide mortar rakes but, other than being shorter, there's no
real benefit. I usually end up raking out by hand with an old
screwdriver and often a power tool isn't any faster.
Andy Dingley
> Any brand will do occasional use. Ability to do lots of work before
> dying is what the low end machines dont have.
4 1/2" angle grinders come in at 20 quid (Lidl), 40-50 quid (green
Bosch) and 80 quid+ (Metabo)
There are several differences:
* Features, like quick-release nuts, anti-vibration handles. Usually
the 80+ machines, to differentiate them from the mid-range. You might
even find a switch that doesn't jam on with sawdust when using an
Arbortech (fecking hate that)
* Bearing quality, lack of vibration, lack of runout. You'll get this
on the 40+ machine
* Sealed windings. These reduce failures from dust, but they also
reduce cooling and so you need a larger winding for the same power.
80+ machines.
So 40 quid gets you a good machine. 80 quid gets you a good machine
that's nicer and lasts longer. 20 quid gets you something that won't
leave a smooth polished surface. However a 20 quid machine lasts just
as long as a 40 quid, when sawing stone (which is hard on any
machine).
So I keep my good grinder for metal, and there's a disposable Lidl for
sawing up brocks.
NT
There are cheaper too, or were, such as dirty devils. I hear they dont
last long.
Dave Starling
> There are cheaper too, or were, such as dirty devils. I hear they dont
There is a powertool that I've seen advertised that works in a very
similar way to the fein multipurpose tool. It has a reciprocating
head which you attach various cutters which have diamond teeth for
accurately cutting/hacking out brick or concrete. I'll see if I can
find the flyer unless anyone else knows what its called.
Dave.
The Natural Philosopher
put one on his hand and demonstrate that it didn't cut it, either.
The skin just vibrated..
Andy Dingley
> There is a powertool that I've seen advertised that works in a very
> similar way to the fein multipurpose tool. It has a reciprocating
> head which you attach various cutters which have diamond teeth for
> accurately cutting/hacking out brick or concrete.
Wonderful things, made by Arbortech. They do make very, very neat cuts
through bricks, and they'll stop dead in a corner. I'm considering
buying one (maybe in partnership with a neighbour, who happens to be a
stonemason) and having it used to tidy up my garden wall and its many
frost-damaged bricks (I buy it, he does the work). Manyana.
They're also great (albeit overpriced) for grinding out tree roots.
They created this for one of two reasons, I'm unsure which.
* They already made the Arbortech carving disk, but that just didn't
look dangerous enough any more.
* They wanted to make the Fein look cheap...
Andy Dingley
wrote:
> I've seen these used to trim glass fiber moulds. And I saw the operator
> put one on his hand and demonstrate that it didn't cut it, either.
>
> The skin just vibrated..
The Arbortech will rip your hand off. It has two contra-oscillating
cutters, so it will also cut things that are flexible, unlike the Fein-
style vibrating saws.
Does anyone know the S/H price on a real Stryker saw? Is it more or
less than a Fein?