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What constitues a trip hazard?
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root
Dec 11, 2011, 4:08:09 PM12/11/11
to
We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
door, which opens outward, closes against it.
I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
value high.
However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
tripped over the thing.
Personally, I'm considering getting the power tools out and lopping
a large chunk off this piece of frame. While that will probably
give rise to a draft from under the door, that does seem preferable
to a broken leg/hip/arm - not to mention the damage that could be
caused to the garden.
Alternatively, "the opposition" wants to get the installers back in
and have them remove the offending piece of plastic, or to do
whatever else would reduce the risk of a head-arse inversion.
What sort of remedies have other people resorted to. Popular options
could include looking where you're going, polishing the kitchen floor
and taking out additional life insurance or training the dog to always
be in the way - thus requiring potential trippers to tread carefully.
The idea of installing a ramp up to the height of the doorframe has
been vetoed: too much work and looks ugly.
frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
door, which opens outward, closes against it.
I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
value high.
However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
tripped over the thing.
Personally, I'm considering getting the power tools out and lopping
a large chunk off this piece of frame. While that will probably
give rise to a draft from under the door, that does seem preferable
to a broken leg/hip/arm - not to mention the damage that could be
caused to the garden.
Alternatively, "the opposition" wants to get the installers back in
and have them remove the offending piece of plastic, or to do
whatever else would reduce the risk of a head-arse inversion.
What sort of remedies have other people resorted to. Popular options
could include looking where you're going, polishing the kitchen floor
and taking out additional life insurance or training the dog to always
be in the way - thus requiring potential trippers to tread carefully.
The idea of installing a ramp up to the height of the doorframe has
been vetoed: too much work and looks ugly.
Cash
Dec 11, 2011, 4:54:54 PM12/11/11
to
root wrote:
> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
> value high.
Not a very clear description of yours, but if it is the 'standard
> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
> value high.
construction' the frame supports the entire assembly.
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
> tripped over the thing.
frame - and you will get used to it. My two grandsons (21/2 and 23 months
old) navigate both my plastic doors and frame successfully to get to the
garden to make a mess with the sand pit - and the external path is 8 inches
lower than the top of the frame sill.
> Personally, I'm considering getting the power tools out and lopping
> a large chunk off this piece of frame. While that will probably
> give rise to a draft from under the door, that does seem preferable
> to a broken leg/hip/arm - not to mention the damage that could be
> caused to the garden.
draughts, but water as well - and probably cause a the door to misfunction.
It will also invalidate any warranty or guarantee that you have.
> Alternatively, "the opposition" wants to get the installers back in
> and have them remove the offending piece of plastic, or to do
> whatever else would reduce the risk of a head-arse inversion.
all responsibilty for damage or injury.
> What sort of remedies have other people resorted to. Popular options
> could include looking where you're going, polishing the kitchen floor
> and taking out additional life insurance or training the dog to always
> be in the way - thus requiring potential trippers to tread carefully.
> The idea of installing a ramp up to the height of the doorframe has
> been vetoed: too much work and looks ugly.
another frame (at your expense) fitted with a narrower sill suitable for
disabled persons (IIRC).
Could you post a photo of the door on www.tinypic.com and post the link
here, so that the group can have a look? Seeing that, could lay rise to
better suggestions to resolve your problem rather than ruining several
hundred pounds of door.
j
Cash
Old Codger
Dec 11, 2011, 5:19:11 PM12/11/11
to
as high as modern uPVC. I have three external uPVC doors, front, rear
and a 'french'door. All have highish thresholds but, so far, no one has
fallen over them.
--
Old Codger
e-mail use reply to field
What matters in politics is not what happens, but what you can make
people believe has happened. [Janet Daley 27/8/2003]
Owain
Dec 11, 2011, 4:55:46 PM12/11/11
to
On Dec 11, 9:08 pm, root wrote:
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches.
Replace the bottom bit with a low threshold sill. Cut down the frame
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches.
if necessary, and refit so the disparity is a gap above the frame at
the top of the door. Fill in gap.
illustrations:
http://www.pioneertradingcompany.co.uk/low-threshold.asp
Owain
root
Dec 11, 2011, 5:25:28 PM12/11/11
to
with a small lip to act as draft excluder + rainwater dam.
I know that HSE diktats are meant to be applied to workplace environments
but I can't imagine anything like this design being allowed in an office
or factory - so I am a little puzzled why suppliers think it's OK to
design products like that for home use.
Hugh Jampton
Dec 11, 2011, 5:27:51 PM12/11/11
to
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:08:09 +0000 (UTC), root wrote:
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches.
Isn't that normal ? Our 3 external doors are similar - no problems.
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches.
--
Regards,
Hugh Jampton
Cash
Dec 11, 2011, 6:05:12 PM12/11/11
to
designed for [1]). You have to cut the frame to resolve the perceived
problem that the OP has, and that will create three separate problems.
1 Cutting the frame to fix the low-threshold sill, yet maintain
draughtproof and water integrity will leave nothing to fix the sill too
because of the way the UPVc is moulded.
2 Cutting the frame to actually get a fixing will leave a huge gap under
the door. That could possibly be resolved by gluing a suitable 'add-on'
piece of UPVc.
3 Cutting the frame to that extent will ruin its structural integrity.
[1] These are generally designed to fit onto a concrete floor, concrete
step or a very low timber door frame sill.
Cash
Hugh - Was Invisible
Dec 11, 2011, 6:05:27 PM12/11/11
to
hard.
We have such a sill on the side door into our garage which is great for
wheeled tools. Daughter moved in to a house that had been set up for a
disabled person and got rain into her lounge from the back door low sill.
Old Codger
Dec 11, 2011, 6:08:14 PM12/11/11
to
usually an aluminium frame but you are right, in a factory/warehouse one
would expect yellow/black markings and warning signs for anything
similar. How far that is genuine H&S and how much management not
wishing to be sued is difficult to guess.
js.b1
Dec 11, 2011, 6:25:58 PM12/11/11
to
Personally I think they are ridiculous. Plastic windows I can just
about tolerate, followed by the bang-bang-bang a few years down the
road to get them open. Plastic doors are invariably ghastly noddy-
housed overpriced junk compared to a proper door. If you want security
a reinforced frame, steel plated wooden door, dog bolts & multiple
locks will meet any requirement.
Give me a proper engineered hardwood door and windows, with separate
secondary glazing and internal blind if you want the ultimate in
insulation. Acacia and other woods work well re limited winter/summer
expansion/contraction providing a good base for the top longest life
Sikkens paints & stains.
Solutions I have seen are create a raised section in front of & behind
the door frame lip, essentially creating a step which is more visually
obvious than the stupid "bit of aluminium or plastic extrusion
sticking out of the floor". Alternatively sink it into the floor so
only 1/2" is visible above the floor.
Traditional solution with a wooden door is set a small angle-iron lip
into the floor, which raises up just above carpet or finished floor
height. The door itself then has a lip with rain shedding rebate, and
a sloped approach to the door to direct water away. Some go for a fake
porch or real porch, but prevailing wind etc may negate their
effectiveness.
At times you wonder if the plastics industry would have us living in
an IP66 enclosure, with according aesthetics, to give them an
existence. Most plastic doors remind you Darwin is not allowed to work
and the human race is screwed.
about tolerate, followed by the bang-bang-bang a few years down the
road to get them open. Plastic doors are invariably ghastly noddy-
housed overpriced junk compared to a proper door. If you want security
a reinforced frame, steel plated wooden door, dog bolts & multiple
locks will meet any requirement.
Give me a proper engineered hardwood door and windows, with separate
secondary glazing and internal blind if you want the ultimate in
insulation. Acacia and other woods work well re limited winter/summer
expansion/contraction providing a good base for the top longest life
Sikkens paints & stains.
Solutions I have seen are create a raised section in front of & behind
the door frame lip, essentially creating a step which is more visually
obvious than the stupid "bit of aluminium or plastic extrusion
sticking out of the floor". Alternatively sink it into the floor so
only 1/2" is visible above the floor.
Traditional solution with a wooden door is set a small angle-iron lip
into the floor, which raises up just above carpet or finished floor
height. The door itself then has a lip with rain shedding rebate, and
a sloped approach to the door to direct water away. Some go for a fake
porch or real porch, but prevailing wind etc may negate their
effectiveness.
At times you wonder if the plastics industry would have us living in
an IP66 enclosure, with according aesthetics, to give them an
existence. Most plastic doors remind you Darwin is not allowed to work
and the human race is screwed.
Message has been deleted
Lieutenant Scott
Dec 11, 2011, 6:40:02 PM12/11/11
to
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 22:27:51 -0000, Hugh Jampton <m...@privacy.net> wrote:
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:08:09 +0000 (UTC), root wrote:
>
>> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches.
>
> Isn't that normal ? Our 3 external doors are similar - no problems.
No, mine is half an inch at the most. My dad's is 2 inches (that really sounded wrong) and every time I go there I fall over the blasted thing.
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:08:09 +0000 (UTC), root wrote:
>
>> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches.
>
> Isn't that normal ? Our 3 external doors are similar - no problems.
--
http://petersparrots.com
http://petersphotos.com
Why do sailors have tattoos on their backs?
So their shipmates will have something to read.
Message has been deleted
Cash
Dec 11, 2011, 7:01:40 PM12/11/11
to
'tripping' over the standard setup (until you get used to it) or clear up
the water after its been raining. Personally, I prefer the first option -
less hassle in the long-run.
Cash
Tim Watts
Dec 11, 2011, 7:02:54 PM12/11/11
to
wrote:
> root wrote:
>> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
>> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
>> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
>> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
>> value high.
>
> Not a very clear description of yours, but if it is the 'standard
> construction' the frame supports the entire assembly.
>
>> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
>> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
>> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
>> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
>> tripped over the thing.
>
> That "piece of plastic on the floor is an integral part of the welded
> frame - and you will get used to it. My two grandsons (21/2 and 23 months
> old) navigate both my plastic doors and frame successfully to get to the
> garden to make a mess with the sand pit - and the external path is 8
> inches lower than the top of the frame sill.
I know what the OP talks of. The conservatory in our last (rented) house had
one and I found it a right PITA due to being about 2" high.
My inclination would be to get 2 bits of 3x2" wood (oak is nice, but
anything fairly hard) and plane a slope into the top surface. Fix down
either side (screw, glue or silicone down depending what teh floor surface
is like).
Oil or varnish or paint the wood with something hardwaring and it will be
much better.
--
Tim Watts
> root wrote:
>> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
>> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
>> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
>> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
>> value high.
>
> Not a very clear description of yours, but if it is the 'standard
> construction' the frame supports the entire assembly.
>
>> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
>> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
>> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
>> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
>> tripped over the thing.
>
> That "piece of plastic on the floor is an integral part of the welded
> frame - and you will get used to it. My two grandsons (21/2 and 23 months
> old) navigate both my plastic doors and frame successfully to get to the
> garden to make a mess with the sand pit - and the external path is 8
> inches lower than the top of the frame sill.
one and I found it a right PITA due to being about 2" high.
My inclination would be to get 2 bits of 3x2" wood (oak is nice, but
anything fairly hard) and plane a slope into the top surface. Fix down
either side (screw, glue or silicone down depending what teh floor surface
is like).
Oil or varnish or paint the wood with something hardwaring and it will be
much better.
--
Tim Watts
Cash
Dec 11, 2011, 7:23:14 PM12/11/11
to
Tim Watts wrote:
> wrote:
>
>> root wrote:
>>> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
>>> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
>>> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
>>> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
>>> value high.
>>
>> Not a very clear description of yours, but if it is the 'standard
>> construction' the frame supports the entire assembly.
>>
>>> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>>> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
>>> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
>>> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
>>> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
>>> tripped over the thing.
>>
>> That "piece of plastic on the floor is an integral part of the welded
>> frame - and you will get used to it. My two grandsons (21/2 and 23
>> months old) navigate both my plastic doors and frame successfully to
>> get to the garden to make a mess with the sand pit - and the
>> external path is 8 inches lower than the top of the frame sill.
>
> I know what the OP talks of. The conservatory in our last (rented)
> house had one and I found it a right PITA due to being about 2" high.
>
I'm OK with the sills Tim, until around this time of the year when I get
> wrote:
>
>> root wrote:
>>> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
>>> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
>>> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
>>> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
>>> value high.
>>
>> Not a very clear description of yours, but if it is the 'standard
>> construction' the frame supports the entire assembly.
>>
>>> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>>> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
>>> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
>>> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
>>> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
>>> tripped over the thing.
>>
>> That "piece of plastic on the floor is an integral part of the welded
>> frame - and you will get used to it. My two grandsons (21/2 and 23
>> months old) navigate both my plastic doors and frame successfully to
>> get to the garden to make a mess with the sand pit - and the
>> external path is 8 inches lower than the top of the frame sill.
>
> I know what the OP talks of. The conservatory in our last (rented)
> house had one and I found it a right PITA due to being about 2" high.
>
those bottles of Jack Daniel's off the family as Christmas pressies (they
know what keeps me sweet to do their odd-jobs free of charge [1]) - and when
I open those, I have been known to fall over the bloody sills a few hours
later on the odd occasion, to everybodies delight. :-)
Cash
Dave Plowman (News)
Dec 11, 2011, 7:33:44 PM12/11/11
to
In article <jc363p$aog$1...@dont-email.me>,
sticks up by about 2 inches. And the door is set back from the outside by
about a metre. Any outside door which hasn't got something like this will
allow driving rain in.
--
*If God had wanted me to touch my toes, he would have put them on my knees
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
root <noone_y...@notatthisaddress.com> wrote:
> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
> value high.
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
> tripped over the thing.
The original front door in my Victorian house has a weather bar which
> We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
> frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
> door, which opens outward, closes against it.
> I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
> value high.
> However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
> sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
> appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
> convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
> this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
> tripped over the thing.
sticks up by about 2 inches. And the door is set back from the outside by
about a metre. Any outside door which hasn't got something like this will
allow driving rain in.
--
*If God had wanted me to touch my toes, he would have put them on my knees
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
js.b1
Dec 11, 2011, 7:10:04 PM12/11/11
to
On Dec 11, 11:43 pm, Tim Streater <timstrea...@greenbee.net> wrote:
> That's because people don't seek out the nicer looking profiles and just
> go for cheap rubbish.
Builders :-)
Profit comes first, they do not get to live with their creation...
... oddly enough architects do not have to either, although it can
haunt some.
Nothing to stop someone creating an engineered wood insulated door.
Insulated double glazing doors only use a panel of extruded
polystyrene (like Marmox) between two skins of PVC. Indeed, design can
make a big difference on plastic doors.
> That's because people don't seek out the nicer looking profiles and just
> go for cheap rubbish.
Builders :-)
Profit comes first, they do not get to live with their creation...
... oddly enough architects do not have to either, although it can
haunt some.
Nothing to stop someone creating an engineered wood insulated door.
Insulated double glazing doors only use a panel of extruded
polystyrene (like Marmox) between two skins of PVC. Indeed, design can
make a big difference on plastic doors.
jgharston
Dec 11, 2011, 10:49:36 PM12/11/11
to
js.b1 wrote:
> Builders :-)
Talking of which, is it possible to get PVC door locks where
you lock them by, well, just locking them, not by having to
drop all your shopping and use the other hand to turn the
**HANDLE** //BACKWARDS!!// and only /then/ turn the blasted key.
JGH
> Builders :-)
Talking of which, is it possible to get PVC door locks where
you lock them by, well, just locking them, not by having to
drop all your shopping and use the other hand to turn the
**HANDLE** //BACKWARDS!!// and only /then/ turn the blasted key.
JGH
Brian Gaff
Dec 12, 2011, 12:24:20 AM12/12/11
to
I have the same problem but as its only me here, I have trained myself now.
I cannot understand why this one size fits all approach is used these days.
At least wood was adaptable, with plastic or ally its just, well how it
comes.
Brian
--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email: bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
"root" <noone_y...@notatthisaddress.com> wrote in message
news:jc363p$aog$1...@dont-email.me...
I cannot understand why this one size fits all approach is used these days.
At least wood was adaptable, with plastic or ally its just, well how it
comes.
Brian
--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email: bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________
"root" <noone_y...@notatthisaddress.com> wrote in message
news:jc363p$aog$1...@dont-email.me...
Dave Liquorice
Dec 12, 2011, 4:04:33 AM12/12/11
to
On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 23:33:02 +0000, Tim Streater wrote:
> 2) Get a "normal" one, but have it installed 85mm or so lower. This
> means that the new floor level is just at the top of the plastic at the
> bottom. Result: no trip hazard and a proper seal all round.
I don't follow this take a normal door/frameset and "set lower".
Surely you end up with a step at the door, down on the side it opens.
So with a normal inward opening external door you have step up going
out and the level of the ground outside is at the top of any seal
against the door. Very little to stop splashing or standing water
getting to that seal and running down into the building if it's not
100% perfect.
Personally I think most people are used to a raised cill and/or step
of some sort at external doors and it's not a big a hazard as it may
appear. All our external doors have some form of raised bit at the
threshold, never tripped over one yet. Bit of a PITA if trying to
wheel something heavy in, like a piano or woodburner though. Also a
problem for those in wheel chairs but as no one is (yet) we'll cross
that one if/when we come to it. Keeping the powder snow and driven
rain out is a much higher consideration.
--
Cheers
Dave.
> 2) Get a "normal" one, but have it installed 85mm or so lower. This
> means that the new floor level is just at the top of the plastic at the
> bottom. Result: no trip hazard and a proper seal all round.
I don't follow this take a normal door/frameset and "set lower".
Surely you end up with a step at the door, down on the side it opens.
So with a normal inward opening external door you have step up going
out and the level of the ground outside is at the top of any seal
against the door. Very little to stop splashing or standing water
getting to that seal and running down into the building if it's not
100% perfect.
Personally I think most people are used to a raised cill and/or step
of some sort at external doors and it's not a big a hazard as it may
appear. All our external doors have some form of raised bit at the
threshold, never tripped over one yet. Bit of a PITA if trying to
wheel something heavy in, like a piano or woodburner though. Also a
problem for those in wheel chairs but as no one is (yet) we'll cross
that one if/when we come to it. Keeping the powder snow and driven
rain out is a much higher consideration.
--
Cheers
Dave.
harry
Dec 12, 2011, 4:24:26 AM12/12/11
to
high) instead of the normal plastic section on the lower horizontal
bit. Much harder to fit accurately an less draught proof.
There is metal inside the plastic frames to strengthen it up and
provide something to screw the hinges to BTW.
stuart noble
Dec 12, 2011, 4:50:31 AM12/12/11
to
doesn't let water.
However, I had no choice due to height of the opening, and I'm sure I'd
have got used to a step
Mike Barnes
Dec 12, 2011, 3:17:36 AM12/12/11
to
Message has been deleted
Message has been deleted
root
Dec 12, 2011, 6:17:22 AM12/12/11
to
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 10:28:08 +0000, Chris Hogg wrote:
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:08:09 +0000 (UTC), root
> On Sun, 11 Dec 2011 21:08:09 +0000 (UTC), root
><noone_y...@notatthisaddress.com> wrote:
>
>>We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
>>frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
>>door, which opens outward, closes against it.
>>I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
>>value high.
>>However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>>sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
>>appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
>>convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
>>this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
>>tripped over the thing.
>
> If it's an outside door as you say, then put down a thick
>
>>We recently had a new kitchen door fitted. It came with a UPVC
>>frame (it's an external door) that is roughly 50mm wide and the
>>door, which opens outward, closes against it.
>>I would guess that this is to reduce drafts and keep the insulation
>>value high.
>>However, this frame is also attached to the floor - where it
>>sticks up, above the floor by 2 inches. Although it doesn't
>>appear to be anything more than a piece of plastic I am firmly
>>convinced that someone, sometime is going to come a cropper on
>>this and end up face downwards in the back garden - having
>>tripped over the thing.
>
> coconut-fibre mat in front of it. This will give something of a step
> up for someone exiting the house and reduce the risk of tripping, and
> at the same time allow incomers to wipe their feet, so reducing the
> amount of mud tramped into the house.
>
Thanks for the responses, people.
The ideas about doormats and oak filler strips/ramps sound quite promising.
While these door seals are certainly not structural elements and could
be cut away, I think I'll leave the tools of mass construction in the shed
for the time being.
There is more to this episode than I've told. The rest may come out later
depending on whether the supplier honks me off more than they already have
and/or I need to raise a mis-selling complaint against them for other,
related, activities.
I think I'll pop out to the doormat shop at lunchtime ...
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