washing machine outlet into soil pipe ?
kdb...@gmail.com
machine into the utility room.
Actually, it's a downstairs loo/cloakroom/boiler room which we've
knocked through into one single room.
We are planning on moving the loo and partitioning it off. The plan
is to use the existing connection to the soil stack and just extend
the soil pipe inside the house.
I'll also need to install a waste pipe for the washing machine. I'd
rather not have to drill another hole through the wall as it's over 2
foot thick. Is there any reason why I can't tap this into the top of
the soil pipe? If It's OK, then what should I be using, is there a
specific boss for this? Obviously I'll need to install some kind of
trap to prevent smells coming back up but do I need a non-syphon trap
or just a standard U bend?
Does it matter what size waste pipe I use (32mm or 40mm)? Finally how
long should the vertical pipe be for the washing machine tube?
Thanks.
Roger Mills
kdb...@gmail.com <kdb...@gmail.com> wrote:
You need one of these:
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=PC3MICTLKTRM4CSTHZOSFEY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=49547&searchbutton.x=10&searchbutton.y=8&searchbutton=submit
plus a short length of 40mm pipe to join them together.
[You many be able to pinch a bit from the 600mm vertical pipe for this
purpose - see what your washing machine User Manual says about the
requirements.]
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
David Hansen
kdb...@gmail.com wrote this:-
>We are planning on moving the loo and partitioning it off. The plan
>is to use the existing connection to the soil stack and just extend
>the soil pipe inside the house.
In addition to the information you have already been given, how long
will the "horizontal" run of the washing machine waste be, precisely
how and where do you intend to connect it and what fall do you
intend to use?
Depending on how the soil branch is ventilated you may need to use
an anti-siphon trap or an air admittance valve on the washing
machine pipe. I would be tempted to try it without one and see what
happens, practical engineering. If there is any gurgling in the trap
when the toilet is flushed then remedial action is quick and easy.
--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54
kdb...@gmail.com
> will the "horizontal" run of the washing machine waste be, precisely
> how and where do you intend to connect it and what fall do you
> intend to use?
around half a metre before we can cut into the soil pipe so fall
shouldn't be much of an issue.
Roger Mills
On re-reading your original post, it looks as if you want to tap into a
horizontal run of soil pipe rather than into the vertical stack. Is that
correct?
If so, the strap-on bass which I suggested should still work - but you'll
need an extra elbow to connect the washing machine trap to it. [Unless you
connect into the *side* of the soil pipe, which I wouldn't recommend!]
Doctor Drivel
"David Hansen" <SENDdavi...@spidacom.co.uk> wrote in message
news:kcbd15h0haq8eqmpd...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 22 May 2009 03:03:30 -0700 (PDT) someone who may be
> kdb...@gmail.com wrote this:-
>
>>We are planning on moving the loo and partitioning it off. The plan
>>is to use the existing connection to the soil stack and just extend
>>the soil pipe inside the house.
>
> In addition to the information you have already been given, how long
> will the "horizontal" run of the washing machine waste be, precisely
> how and where do you intend to connect it and what fall do you
> intend to use?
>
> Depending on how the soil branch is ventilated you may need to use
> an anti-siphon trap or an air admittance valve on the washing
> machine pipe. I would be tempted to try it without one and see what
> happens, practical engineering. If there is any gurgling in the trap
> when the toilet is flushed then remedial action is quick and easy.
He is better off using a 40mm HepVo trap on the washing machine, which is
tapped into the top of the soil pipe running to the toilet. Some WC bends
have a knock out to fit a 40mm rubber boss into. Some like to cut into the
110mm pipe just before the wc bend and fit the 40mm pipe usinga strap on
boss, as been gioven on Screwfix. A HepVo trap is an air admittance valve
and an anti-siphon trap too - well it is a dry trap. The air admittance
side of the trap ensures the toilet runs free. No need to try things out
just fit a HepVo.
http://www.bes.co.uk
BES numbers: 15122, 15126
The trap is in-line. 40mm in 40mm out. Put a 40mm pipe stub on top, as
long as you can get, so the washing machine drain pipe hooks in.
Doctor Drivel
"Roger Mills" <watt....@googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:77ntdqF...@mid.individual.net...
> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
> kdb...@gmail.com <kdb...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>> addition to the information you have already been given, how long
>>> will the "horizontal" run of the washing machine waste be, precisely
>>> how and where do you intend to connect it and what fall do you
>>> intend to use?
>> Should be able to restrict the horizontal run from washing machine to
>> around half a metre before we can cut into the soil pipe so fall
>> shouldn't be much of an issue.
>
> On re-reading your original post, it looks as if you want to tap into a
> horizontal run of soil pipe rather than into the vertical stack. Is that
> correct?
>
> If so, the strap-on bass which I suggested should still work - but you'll
> need an extra elbow to connect the washing machine trap to it. [Unless you
> connect into the *side* of the soil pipe, which I wouldn't recommend!]
He needs a HepVo w/machine trap as the 110mm pipe is long and a shallow
fall. It allows air into the 110mm pipe from the 40mm trap giving free
flow. Easy when you know how.