info
Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
Ping Lobster - Stanley sliding wardrobe doors
552 views
Skip to first unread message
David WE Roberts
Jul 25, 2012, 4:10:53 AM7/25/12
to
Ping Lobster because Google showed you fitting some in May 2007.
I am trying to take out some Stanley sliding wardrobe doors (fitted by
previous owner) and am puzzling over the fittings that run in the tracks on
the floor.
Other makes of door fitting (long time back) I remember lifting the top
runners over a rail and then the bottom track guiding wheels.
You just lifted them up and out to remove them.
These have profiled feet at the bottom which fit inside a chammel so you
can't lift the door, and there is no obvious way to seperate/remove bits of
the bottom guide.
Hard to believe that you have to fit all the doors to the bottom channel
then muscle the whole thing into place on the upper channel before screwing
the bottom channel down.
So there is a magic trick to it.
I don't have the instructions.
I could just graunch everything out but I'm trying to recycle responsibly
and pass the units on to someone else I I get them out without damage.
Cheers
Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]
Helmuth von Moltke the Elder
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
I am trying to take out some Stanley sliding wardrobe doors (fitted by
previous owner) and am puzzling over the fittings that run in the tracks on
the floor.
Other makes of door fitting (long time back) I remember lifting the top
runners over a rail and then the bottom track guiding wheels.
You just lifted them up and out to remove them.
These have profiled feet at the bottom which fit inside a chammel so you
can't lift the door, and there is no obvious way to seperate/remove bits of
the bottom guide.
Hard to believe that you have to fit all the doors to the bottom channel
then muscle the whole thing into place on the upper channel before screwing
the bottom channel down.
So there is a magic trick to it.
I don't have the instructions.
I could just graunch everything out but I'm trying to recycle responsibly
and pass the units on to someone else I I get them out without damage.
Cheers
Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]
Helmuth von Moltke the Elder
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Andy Burns
Jul 25, 2012, 4:45:01 AM7/25/12
to
David WE Roberts wrote:
> I am trying to take out some Stanley sliding wardrobe doors
> I am trying to take out some Stanley sliding wardrobe doors
> Other makes of door fitting (long time back) I remember lifting the top
> runners over a rail and then the bottom track guiding wheels.
> You just lifted them up and out to remove them.
My Stanley ones were like that, had no problems removing them intact.
> runners over a rail and then the bottom track guiding wheels.
> You just lifted them up and out to remove them.
> These have profiled feet at the bottom which fit inside a chammel so you
> can't lift the door, and there is no obvious way to seperate/remove bits of
> the bottom guide.
David WE Roberts
Jul 25, 2012, 5:19:02 AM7/25/12
to
"David WE Roberts" <nos...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:a79o0u...@mid.individual.net...
> Ping Lobster because Google showed you fitting some in May 2007.
>
> I am trying to take out some Stanley sliding wardrobe doors (fitted by
> previous owner) and am puzzling over the fittings that run in the tracks
> on the floor.
>
> Other makes of door fitting (long time back) I remember lifting the top
> runners over a rail and then the bottom track guiding wheels.
> You just lifted them up and out to remove them.
> These have profiled feet at the bottom which fit inside a chammel so you
> can't lift the door, and there is no obvious way to seperate/remove bits
> of the bottom guide.
> Hard to believe that you have to fit all the doors to the bottom channel
> then muscle the whole thing into place on the upper channel before
> screwing the bottom channel down.
>
> So there is a magic trick to it.
> I don't have the instructions.
> I could just graunch everything out but I'm trying to recycle responsibly
> and pass the units on to someone else I I get them out without damage.
>
Update - seing a mention that the runners just push into the track, I tried
>
> I am trying to take out some Stanley sliding wardrobe doors (fitted by
> previous owner) and am puzzling over the fittings that run in the tracks
> on the floor.
>
> Other makes of door fitting (long time back) I remember lifting the top
> runners over a rail and then the bottom track guiding wheels.
> You just lifted them up and out to remove them.
> These have profiled feet at the bottom which fit inside a chammel so you
> can't lift the door, and there is no obvious way to seperate/remove bits
> of the bottom guide.
> Hard to believe that you have to fit all the doors to the bottom channel
> then muscle the whole thing into place on the upper channel before
> screwing the bottom channel down.
>
> So there is a magic trick to it.
> I don't have the instructions.
> I could just graunch everything out but I'm trying to recycle responsibly
> and pass the units on to someone else I I get them out without damage.
>
crude leverage.
The light doors - no mirrors - hang from wheels but just have rubber guides
at the bottom.
Lever them out of the track with a narrow screwdriver, tilt the door, and
the top wheels lift out (with a bit of heaving and swearing).
The heavier mirrored doors have wheels top and bottom.
Following the 'lever with a screwdriver' technique I found that there are
retaining clips around the bottom wheels which clip over the wheel assembly
and into the tracks.
Pop them off and the bottom is free.
Top is being awkward at the moment so downstairs to change to short range
glasses from varifocals then have another go.
Lobster
Jul 25, 2012, 6:29:11 AM7/25/12
to
Pretty sure they were wheels on the bottom only, and the top was just
a plastic guide which pulled out? There was a little blue plastic lever
affair on the wheels (or was it at the top) which you had to turn
through 90 degrees to unlock the release mechanism.
NB I've played with various different incarnations of these over the
years so memory could be failing here...
David
David WE Roberts
Jul 25, 2012, 8:07:06 AM7/25/12
to
news:a79s0n...@mid.individual.net...
Turns out it is a two person job.
One person holds door, rotates outwards into the room to about a 30 degree
angle, then pushes up.
This takes the tension off the spring loaded top rollers and gives them
enough angle to clear the top guide.
Person up the step ladders eases them out and the door comes free.
Thanks for the responses.
For one the 'lever something and see what gives' approach has worked, as
opposed to a crack, followed by later information on the lines of "you just
need to turn the concealed screw exactly 37 degrees anti-clockwise then
sacrifice a pidgeon or you will break it and never get it working again".
Putting it on Freecycle in a bit.
This is the first stage of our DIYing things that we can do ourselves so we
don't have to pay the builders.
Next stage is removing the kitchen then removing most of the central heating
ready for a combi to be fitted.
One person holds door, rotates outwards into the room to about a 30 degree
angle, then pushes up.
This takes the tension off the spring loaded top rollers and gives them
enough angle to clear the top guide.
Person up the step ladders eases them out and the door comes free.
Thanks for the responses.
For one the 'lever something and see what gives' approach has worked, as
opposed to a crack, followed by later information on the lines of "you just
need to turn the concealed screw exactly 37 degrees anti-clockwise then
sacrifice a pidgeon or you will break it and never get it working again".
Putting it on Freecycle in a bit.
This is the first stage of our DIYing things that we can do ourselves so we
don't have to pay the builders.
Next stage is removing the kitchen then removing most of the central heating
ready for a combi to be fitted.
newshound
Jul 25, 2012, 2:35:51 PM7/25/12
to
locate the details later
newshound
Jul 25, 2012, 5:15:23 PM7/25/12
to
Confirmed, no force required. All done from the bottom. Flip out blue
tag through 90 degrees, this releases a T shaped section which is locked
into a slot in the track. Then use crosspoint screwdriver on the screw,
this retracts the bottom wheel, then you can lift the door slightly to
free it from the track at the bottom, then move it inward or outward
until the wheel at the top becomes free.
tag through 90 degrees, this releases a T shaped section which is locked
into a slot in the track. Then use crosspoint screwdriver on the screw,
this retracts the bottom wheel, then you can lift the door slightly to
free it from the track at the bottom, then move it inward or outward
until the wheel at the top becomes free.
David WE Roberts
Jul 26, 2012, 3:25:24 AM7/26/12
to
"newshound" <news...@fairadsl.co.uk> wrote in message
news:501061ea$0$24839$c3e8da3$e3f2...@news.astraweb.com...
Sadly the description above does not apply to my model.
Happily I've got the buggers out.
Oh, and I forgot to mention the screws on the mirrired doors - screw in to
create a bit of movement before popping off the black plastic clips on the
floor rollers so thanks for the reminder..
0 new messages