2 metre drill bits

[Andrew Gabriel]

Has anyone come across a 2m or 2.5m SDS drill bit.
Another option (depending which way I can drill the hole
and what the bit finds itself going through) would be a
drill bit of that length which can drill through soil (mosty
soft clay, which I think would hold its shape for long
enough to feed a lining pipe through afterwards, but
does also include some stones and old smashed roof tiles).

Trying to think how I can drill a hole under a patio and
through the wall into the subfloor space, for theading
cables.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[Jeremy Nicoll - news posts]

and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

> Trying to think how I can drill a hole under a patio and through the wall
> into the subfloor space, for theading cables.

You really need a mole... If you start under the floor and drill out to the
clay, if it's firm (big if!) you might be able to bore the rest of the way
using something like an auger or an old-fashioned 1 or 2" diameter wood bit,
mounted somehow on the end of a broomstick.

Are you certain there's no drains crossing the space?

--
Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own.

Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply
to newsre...@wingsandbeaks.org.uk replacing "aaa" by "284".

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article <k0aktg$fd5$1...@dont-email.me>, Andrew Gabriel
<and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes

> (mosty
>soft clay, which I think would hold its shape for long
>enough to feed a lining pipe through afterwards, but
>does also include some stones and old smashed roof tiles)

Assuming you're drilling through into open space (under floorboards, for
example), and the soil is soft enough, you could try simply hammering a
length of 22mm copper pipe (or steel pipe of similar diameter) through.
I've done this in the past. Leave the end of the pipe open so the edge
cuts its way through the soil; if you cap the end you just compact the
soil and make the job harder. The pipe will fill with soil; later, to
clear it, you can either push the soil out using a rod or use a hosepipe
to wash it through.

--
Mike Tomlinson

[Nightjar]

On 13/08/2012 11:29, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
> Has anyone come across a 2m or 2.5m SDS drill bit.
> Another option (depending which way I can drill the hole
> and what the bit finds itself going through) would be a
> drill bit of that length which can drill through soil (mosty
> soft clay, which I think would hold its shape for long
> enough to feed a lining pipe through afterwards, but
> does also include some stones and old smashed roof tiles).
>
> Trying to think how I can drill a hole under a patio and
> through the wall into the subfloor space, for theading
> cables.

I have a 300mm long 25mm dia drill and a similar length extension that
screws onto the end of it, that I used to drill through both sides of a
disused chimney. The extension piece could take further extensions,
giving a theoretically unlimited length of drill.

Colin Bignell

[Muddymike]

I did similar to get an oil pipe under a concrete path. I used 1" steel pipe
and sharpened the wall of the leading end to help it cut through. My problem
was I needed a trench the width of the path plus hammering space to work in
and didn't have it. I had to cut the length of pipe into three and weld on
the next length after the first was hammered in. I did find that rotating
the pipe whilst hammering helped. It worked, but but didn't come out quite
where I would have liked and I was only going through subsoil.

Mike

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <Jrmdne4p25vSYbXN...@giganews.com>,

I have a 1m long 25mm bit, but I need to go through fractionally
over 2m, and ideally at 35mm (planning on using 32mm MDPE as ducting).

[Jules Richardson]

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 14:12:58 +0100, Muddymike wrote:

> In article <k0aktg$fd5$1...@dont-email.me>, Andrew Gabriel
>><and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes
>>
>>> (mosty
>>>soft clay, which I think would hold its shape for long enough to feed a
>>>lining pipe through afterwards, but does also include some stones and
>>>old smashed roof tiles)
>>
>>Assuming you're drilling through into open space (under floorboards, for
>>example), and the soil is soft enough, you could try simply hammering a
>>length of 22mm copper pipe (or steel pipe of similar diameter) through.
>>I've done this in the past. Leave the end of the pipe open so the edge
>>cuts its way through the soil; if you cap the end you just compact the
>>soil and make the job harder. The pipe will fill with soil; later, to
>>clear it, you can either push the soil out using a rod or use a hosepipe
>>to wash it through.
>>
>>
> I did similar to get an oil pipe under a concrete path. I used 1" steel
> pipe and sharpened the wall of the leading end to help it cut through.

I wonder about attaching a drill bit to the end of the lining pipe
itself, drilling through, then chopping the drill bit off afterwards,
leaving the lining pipe in place ready to run cables through. 2m through
anything seems like rather a lot, though; I know the drill bits in my
local DIY sheds top out at around 1m.

OP, will the patio blocks not lift up so you can just put a trench in?

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <D6idnfdOidgFYLXN...@brightview.com>,

I like that idea. The lawn slopes down quite steeply in front of
the patio, so wouldn't need much hammering space. Might be easier
to hammer through from the inside, having done a core bore through
the wall from the inside, or taken out a couple of bricks first.

Where to get steel pipe? Don't recall seeing in plumber's merchant.
Scaffold pole (just under 2" dia?) may be a way, but rather heavy.
I may have a scrap piece of 1/2" or 3/4" to try first.

[Nightjar]

On 13/08/2012 23:35, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
...
> Where to get steel pipe? Don't recall seeing in plumber's merchant....

PipeCenter deal with larger pipes than most plumbers' merchants,
although you may need to order steel pipe.

Colin Bignell

[Dave Liquorice]

On Mon, 13 Aug 2012 22:35:48 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

> Where to get steel pipe? Don't recall seeing in plumber's merchant.
> Scaffold pole (just under 2" dia?) may be a way, but rather heavy.
> I may have a scrap piece of 1/2" or 3/4" to try first.

1/2" or 3/4" may well get knocked of course by a hard lump that you say
exists in the ground. Far less likely to happen with a scaff pole, 2m of
scaff isn't that heavy. Leave it as an open tube and remove the core with
a water jet.

Not sure how one would "aim" it though, water level?

--
Cheers
Dave.

[Mike Tomlinson]

En el artículo <k0bvg4$mcj$1...@dont-email.me>, Andrew Gabriel
<and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> escribió:

>I may have a scrap piece of 1/2" or 3/4" to try first.

Like another poster said though, 'ware the drains and other services.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

[Tim Lamb]

In message <k0bvg4$mcj$1...@dont-email.me>, Andrew Gabriel

Bit of 1" water barrel?

Plenty on my *possibles* pile:-)

regards
>

--
Tim Lamb

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <BuTTvzCP...@jasper.org.uk>,
Mike Tomlinson <mi...@jasper.org.uk> writes:
> En el art�culo <k0bvg4$mcj$1...@dont-email.me>, Andrew Gabriel
> <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> escribi�:

>
>>I may have a scrap piece of 1/2" or 3/4" to try first.
>
> Like another poster said though, 'ware the drains and other services.

There are drains there, but they're all significantly deeper.
Actually it was the manhole which caused me the problem. I had
originally intended to route the cables in the gap between the
manhole and the end of the raised patio. It turned out that
the manhole is much larger on the outside than it is on the
inside, and far from being a gap, the outside of it goes well
under the end of the patio.