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Cooker lead extention

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whisky-dave

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Feb 12, 2014, 8:54:49 AM2/12/14
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A friend hadd to replace their cooker so brought one but the installer said the cable was too short so he couldn't install it so left. (PC world/currys or some shop)

Seems there are two options

1/ extend the cooker cable (that's too short) using a suitable junction box and cable


2/ just extend the existing lead by crimping, soldering, or terminal block with a suitable bit of cable (32 amp).

Is there anyhting else I need to be aware of as it seems a relatively simple job.

I'll probbely just pop in to B here and Q fort the stuff


Martin Bonner

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Feb 12, 2014, 9:08:26 AM2/12/14
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On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 1:54:49 PM UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
> A friend hadd to replace their cooker so brought one but the installer
> said the cable was too short so he couldn't install it so left.
> (PC world/currys or some shop)
>
> Seems there are two options
>
> 1/ extend the cooker cable (that's too short) using a suitable
> junction box and cable
Yes.
>
> 2/ just extend the existing lead by crimping, soldering, or terminal
> block with a suitable bit of cable (32 amp).

3/ Remove the existing (presumably long enough) cable from the previous
cooker and fit that to the new cooker.

4/ Get a new, long enough, bit of cable from an electrical suppliers,
and fit that to the new cooker.

If you go with either of these options, be sure to dispose safely of
the cable you remove from the new cooker. (A toddler was killed in
Scotland a couple of years ago when he plugged the cable into a power
socket and took hold of the live and neutral wires coming out of the
cable.)

Dave Plowman (News)

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Feb 12, 2014, 10:16:56 AM2/12/14
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In article <f23cae90-57e4-4ed9...@googlegroups.com>,
Martin Bonner <martin...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> If you go with either of these options, be sure to dispose safely of
> the cable you remove from the new cooker. (A toddler was killed in
> Scotland a couple of years ago when he plugged the cable into a power
> socket and took hold of the live and neutral wires coming out of the
> cable.)

It would be a very clever toddler who managed to plug a bare cable into a
socket.

I presume you mean a lead with a 13 amp plug attached which had been cut
off from something? This cooker isn't plugged in.

--
*Never test the depth of the water with both feet.*

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Martin Bonner

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Feb 12, 2014, 11:14:23 AM2/12/14
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On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 3:16:56 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>
> It would be a very clever toddler who managed to plug a bare cable into a
> socket.
>
> I presume you mean a lead with a 13 amp plug attached which had been cut
> off from something?

Not cut off, but disconnected from the screw terminals in the cooker - thus leaving lengths of wire exposed.

http://www.scotcourts.gov.uk/opinions/2011FAI17.html

Having read that, I am *much* more careful about destroying plugs on cables I remove from things. I can easily imagine being that electrician.

> This cooker isn't plugged in.

Which avoids that worry.

Dave Plowman (News)

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Feb 12, 2014, 11:41:10 AM2/12/14
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In article <168e20df-7b2c-4d8e...@googlegroups.com>,
Martin Bonner <martin...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 3:16:56 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> >
> > It would be a very clever toddler who managed to plug a bare cable
> > into a socket.
> >
> > I presume you mean a lead with a 13 amp plug attached which had been
> > cut off from something?

> Not cut off, but disconnected from the screw terminals in the cooker -
> thus leaving lengths of wire exposed.

> http://www.scotcourts.gov.uk/opinions/2011FAI17.html

Oven, it would seem. Some oven can be plugged into a 13 amp socket - a
cooker has to be hard wired.

> Having read that, I am *much* more careful about destroying plugs on
> cables I remove from things. I can easily imagine being that
> electrician.

> > This cooker isn't plugged in.

> Which avoids that worry.

If you've hacked off a moulded on plug with or without some lead still
attached then yes it should be disposed of carefully. But in any case
remove the fuse first - it can be used elsewhere. Which will also make it
safe.

--
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.

whisky-dave

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Feb 12, 2014, 12:10:43 PM2/12/14
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On Wednesday, 12 February 2014 14:08:26 UTC, Martin Bonner wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 1:54:49 PM UTC, whisky-dave wrote:
>
> > A friend hadd to replace their cooker so brought one but the installer
>
> > said the cable was too short so he couldn't install it so left.
>
> > (PC world/currys or some shop)
>
> >
>
> > Seems there are two options
>
> >
>
> > 1/ extend the cooker cable (that's too short) using a suitable
>
> > junction box and cable
>
> Yes.
>
> >
>
> > 2/ just extend the existing lead by crimping, soldering, or terminal
>
> > block with a suitable bit of cable (32 amp).
>
>
>
> 3/ Remove the existing (presumably long enough) cable from the previous
>
> cooker and fit that to the new cooker.

I'm not sure that will be possible, it looks like the original cooker was installed cooker first then the switch wired up then tiles installed.

I would try using the old cooker wire as a draw cable but I have the impression that it's been p[lastered into the wall.

>
>
>
> 4/ Get a new, long enough, bit of cable from an electrical suppliers,
>
> and fit that to the new cooker.

Then how do I get it to the switch if the original cable can't be removed, which is what I think the problem is.


> If you go with either of these options, be sure to dispose safely of
> the cable you remove from the new cooker.

I tend to hoard such things in the loft until I lose them :-)

> (A toddler was killed in
> Scotland a couple of years ago when he plugged the cable into a power
> socket and took hold of the live and neutral wires coming out of the
> cable.)

That sort of thing is worth remembering, I do this sort of thing at work with faulty equipemnt I always remove the plug and cut the cable off the device to stop someone trying to put a new plug on it.

Cheers for the reply,

Dave Plowman (News)

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Feb 12, 2014, 12:39:14 PM2/12/14
to
In article <0604ca42-b44a-489d...@googlegroups.com>,
whisky-dave <whisk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm not sure that will be possible, it looks like the original cooker
> was installed cooker first then the switch wired up then tiles installed.

> I would try using the old cooker wire as a draw cable but I have the
> impression that it's been p[lastered into the wall.

Extend the cable using a suitable junction box. No problems with that if
it's simply behind the cooker so still 'accessible'.

--
*Don't byte off more than you can view *

Bill Wright

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Feb 12, 2014, 3:19:51 PM2/12/14
to
whisky-dave wrote:

> That sort of thing is worth remembering, I do this sort of thing at work with faulty equipemnt I always remove

the plug and cut the cable off the device to stop someone trying to put
a new plug on it.

We very often cut the plugs off aerial amps. Orders are to twist the
pins with pliers until they fall off (surprisingly easy) if the scrap is
left on site.

Bill

ARW

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Feb 12, 2014, 3:29:47 PM2/12/14
to
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> In article <0604ca42-b44a-489d...@googlegroups.com>,
> whisky-dave <whisk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> I'm not sure that will be possible, it looks like the original cooker
>> was installed cooker first then the switch wired up then tiles
>> installed. I would try using the old cooker wire as a draw cable
>> but I have the impression that it's been p[lastered into the wall.
>
> Extend the cable using a suitable junction box. No problems with that
> if it's simply behind the cooker so still 'accessible'.

Indeed - or just pushed under an adjacent plinth:-)

A suitable junction box would be
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html as it has strain relief for
the cable - just in the off chance that she moves the cooker to clean behind
it.

--

Adam


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