Attaching slate sign to pebbledashed wall

[Murmansk]

I need to attach a house sign that’s made of slate and is about A5 size, it has no attachment holes and is being attached to a pebbledashed surface that has been painted.

I can’t drill any holes in the slate.

My initial thought is to screw a piece of something like plywood (or maybe plastic) to the wall and glue the sign to that.

Any thought on this, or a better way? What glue?

Thanks

[Tricky Dicky]

Some of the Polyurethane glues should glue direct to the pebbledash even PU foam should do it. Other alternatives are the likes of Gripfill. No doubt TNP will be along with car body filler. Your main problem will be holding the sign in place till whatever you use sets.

If using a plywood backing then impact adhesives will eliminate the need to support it but the ply will need to be marine ply and suitably sealed otherwise the ply will over time separate and the sign will drop off.

Richard

[Tim+]

If it’s intended to stay there, I’d just wire brush any loose paint off and
use something like “NoMoreNails”. Plywood will delaminate and look a bit
crap after a while.

Tim

--
Please don't feed the trolls

[Clive Arthur]

Fill the pebbledash first - a mortar skim say - to make a flat surface,
then almost any adhesive which is suitable for outside. Silicone, No
more nails, I can't believe it's not nails, Fuck me this stuff is better
than nails etc.

--
Cheers
Clive

[Robin]

On 16/07/2021 09:04, Murmansk wrote:

Whatever you do I suggest avoiding a gap at the top where stuff can take
root.


--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

[noth...@aolbin.com]

On 16/07/2021 09:04, Murmansk wrote:

Take a piece of hardwood (20x20, perhaps), cut a groove in it, cut it in
half, fix it to the wall above and below the slate, slide slate into
groove. If the wood is longer than the slate then retain the slate by
inserting fillets in the visible grooves. If the wood is shorter than
the slate retain the slate with a squirt of something behind it.
Ideally, bevel the front corner of the lower piece of wood before fixing it.
Alternatively, use stainless mirror clips.
Others have suggested just sticking it to the wall - unwise IMHO.

[newshound]

On 16/07/2021 09:04, Murmansk wrote:

As a matter of interest, why can't you drill the slate?

Because of the aesthetics, because you don't have a drill, or because
you just don't want to?

To my mind drilling and using stainless steel fixings would be the
quick, neat, and very long-lasting option without "side effects".

[Andy Burns]

Murmansk wrote:

> What glue?

3M VHB tape

[charles]

In article <n4OdnXr8wvkc_Wz9...@brightview.co.uk>, newshound

daughter 2 has a slate house name and it has fixingb holes drilled in it.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England
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[John Rumm]

On 16/07/2021 10:27, noth...@aolbin.com wrote:
> On 16/07/2021 09:04, Murmansk wrote:
>> I need to attach a house sign that’s made of slate and is about A5
>> size, it has no attachment holes and is being attached to a
>> pebbledashed surface that has been painted.
>>
>> I can’t drill any holes in the slate.
>>
>> My initial thought is to screw a piece of something like plywood (or
>> maybe plastic) to the wall and glue the sign to that.
>>
>> Any thought on this, or a better way? What glue?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
> Take a piece of hardwood (20x20, perhaps), cut a groove in it, cut it in
> half, fix it to the wall above and below the slate, slide slate into
> groove. If the wood is longer than the slate then retain the slate by
> inserting fillets in the visible grooves. If the wood is shorter than
> the slate retain the slate with a squirt of something behind it.
> Ideally, bevel the front corner of the lower piece of wood before fixing
> it.

Yup I like that idea :-)

Alternatively you could do a fix based on a French cleat style design.
Take a bit of 2x1, and cut a bevel on *both* sides. Screw that to the
wall, with the narrow face against the wall. Cut a couple of similar
lengths of wood, and rip a bevel onto *one* side of each of those. Stick
them to the back of the slate with epoxy or PU glue, and leave them to
set. Now slide the sign onto the cleat on the wall. If you want to fix
it in place, drive a single screw up through the bottom strip fixed to
the slate so that you pin it to the wall mounted cleat. That will give
an invisible fixing, but also removable if required.

> Alternatively, use stainless mirror clips.
> Others have suggested just sticking it to the wall - unwise IMHO.

--
Cheers,

John.

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[Roger Hayter]

I've got one I have'nt put up yet that has half thickness 1cm holes drilled in
the back to epoxy studs into.

--
Roger Hayter

[Murmansk]

OP here

Thanks for all those suggestions

Now I come to think about it, I think the sign has half-depth holes drilled in the back so I guess I could Araldite something into the holes and then drill two corresponding holes in the wall and glue it in with resin or maybe even silicon sealant.

[newshound]

I think that would be quite a neat fix. It's obviously quite a thick
slate, then. I guess some of us were thinking it might have been a bit
more like a roofing slate. I think I would go for studding epoxied into
the slate, then something like 3 - 4 inches of studding protruding from
that. IME standard zinc plated studding araldited to the slate would
last OK, you could go for stainless if you wanted perfection. Two studs
at the top might be enough, less problem then getting the clearance and
alignment with the holes correct. And I would probably go for silicone
in the holes, then it should be secure but would still let you lever it
out relatively easily for painting or re-rendering in the fullness of time.

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 16/07/2021 09:04, Murmansk wrote:

car body filler straight onto the wall

Why cant you drill holes in the slate? diamond core drill works fine...


--
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private property.

Karl Marx

[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

I remember back many moons ago, in the Channel isle, seeing a slate sign
attached using holes in the slate but behind the slate appeared to be some
plastic pacers of some kind, no doubt to stop the wobbly wall putting
stress on the slate and eventually cracking it. Slate is very heavy stuff,
and I also see quite a few with bits missing in them days. Maybe you need
plastic slate imitation!

Brian

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[Brian Gaff (Sofa)]

If you do use mirror clips make sure they are not going to go rusty in the
blink of an eye.

Brian

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<noth...@aolbin.com> wrote in message
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[Murmansk]

I don't want to drill holes in the sign because it'd ruin the look of it - the wording would be affected.

[Robin]

On 16/07/2021 13:06, Murmansk wrote:

just occurred to me that neodymium magnets in the holes and bolts in the
wall would allow for easy positioning and removal - but probably with
downsides I've not yet seen

[Rod Speed]

Robin <r...@outlook.com> wrote
> Murmansk wrote

>> Now I come to think about it, I think the sign
>> has half-depth holes drilled in the back so I guess
>> I could Araldite something into the holes and then
>> drill two corresponding holes in the wall and glue
>> it in with resin or maybe even silicon sealant.

> just occurred to me that neodymium magnets in the
> holes and bolts in the wall would allow for easy positioning
> and removal - but probably with downsides I've not yet seen

Yeah, like buggers stealing your sign.

[Murmansk]

In the end I found the sign had just one hole drilled in the back so I drilled two, one at either side and inserted a couple of screws held in by their heads using a mix of superglue and sodium bicarbonate which makes an excellent instant filler in my experience.

I'll drill two holes in the wall, fill the holes with silicone sealant and put a decent amount of sealant across the back of the sign near the top to stop rainwater running down and getting to the screws. Press the screws into the holes and support with gaffer tape until the sealant dries.

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 18/07/2021 14:24, Murmansk wrote:
> superglue and sodium bicarbonate which makes an excellent instant filler in my experience.

Not as tough as car body filler, or as weatherproof, but very quick :-)

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Peter Thompson