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surface mounted metal back box behind cooker ?

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sm_jamieson

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May 19, 2012, 9:50:02 AM5/19/12
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RE: The oven outlet box behind the oven for connecting the final wiring to the oven itself.
This will be surface mounted on an area of wall where there is no plasterboard.
Is there any problem surface mounting a metal back box here (it will only be visible and accessible when the oven is removed from the oven housing unit)?
Or should I use a plastic "surface mount" box - they are more bulky and I'll have to go out and get one !
Thanks,
Simon.

John Rumm

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May 19, 2012, 2:34:40 PM5/19/12
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As you say, its not pretty, but in the circumstance that does not seem
to matter. I can't immediately think of a reason for it being actually
"wrong" though as long as its properly earthed - it will still offer
adequate IP protection (assuming you are not using one with half the
knockouts missing!).

--
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/

ARWadsworth

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May 19, 2012, 2:58:38 PM5/19/12
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John Rumm wrote:
> On 19/05/2012 14:50, sm_jamieson wrote:
> > RE: The oven outlet box behind the oven for connecting the final
> > wiring to the oven itself. This will be surface mounted on an area of
> > wall where there is no
> > plasterboard. Is there any problem surface mounting a metal back box
> > here (it
> > will only be visible and accessible when the oven is removed from
> > the oven housing unit)? Or should I use a plastic "surface mount"
> > box - they are more bulky and I'll have to go out and get one !
>
> As you say, its not pretty, but in the circumstance that does not seem
> to matter. I can't immediately think of a reason for it being actually
> "wrong" though as long as its properly earthed - it will still offer
> adequate IP protection (assuming you are not using one with half the
> knockouts missing!).

Even if there are no other knockouts missing I would use a stuffing gland
and not a grommet for the cable entry.

In the real world using a surface mounted metal backbox is no different than
using a metal clad surface mounted socket or switch.

--
Adam


NT

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May 19, 2012, 2:57:51 PM5/19/12
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On May 19, 7:34 pm, John Rumm <see.my.signat...@nowhere.null> wrote:
> On 19/05/2012 14:50, sm_jamieson wrote:
>
> > RE: The oven outlet box behind the oven for connecting the final wiring to the oven itself.
> > This will be surface mounted on an area of wall where there is no plasterboard.
> > Is there any problem surface mounting a metal back box here (it will only be visible and accessible when the oven is removed from the oven housing unit)?
> > Or should I use a plastic "surface mount" box - they are more bulky and I'll have to go out and get one !
>
> As you say, its not pretty, but in the circumstance that does not seem
> to matter. I can't immediately think of a reason for it being actually
> "wrong" though as long as its properly earthed - it will still offer
> adequate IP protection (assuming you are not using one with half the
> knockouts missing!).

Knockouts are the issue, if they let a small kids finger in they're no
good, and the metal boxes do tend to have holes large enough to do so.
So watch how you get the cable into the box.


NT

John Rumm

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May 19, 2012, 3:35:45 PM5/19/12
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On 19/05/2012 19:58, ARWadsworth wrote:
> John Rumm wrote:
>> On 19/05/2012 14:50, sm_jamieson wrote:
>>> RE: The oven outlet box behind the oven for connecting the final
>>> wiring to the oven itself. This will be surface mounted on an area of
>>> wall where there is no
>>> plasterboard. Is there any problem surface mounting a metal back box
>>> here (it
>>> will only be visible and accessible when the oven is removed from
>>> the oven housing unit)? Or should I use a plastic "surface mount"
>>> box - they are more bulky and I'll have to go out and get one !
>>
>> As you say, its not pretty, but in the circumstance that does not seem
>> to matter. I can't immediately think of a reason for it being actually
>> "wrong" though as long as its properly earthed - it will still offer
>> adequate IP protection (assuming you are not using one with half the
>> knockouts missing!).
>
> Even if there are no other knockouts missing I would use a stuffing gland
> and not a grommet for the cable entry.

or dip into the wall behind it and come in the back...

ARWadsworth

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May 19, 2012, 3:40:07 PM5/19/12
to
John Rumm wrote:
> On 19/05/2012 19:58, ARWadsworth wrote:
> > John Rumm wrote:
> > > On 19/05/2012 14:50, sm_jamieson wrote:
> > > > RE: The oven outlet box behind the oven for connecting the final
> > > > wiring to the oven itself. This will be surface mounted on an
> > > > area of wall where there is no
> > > > plasterboard. Is there any problem surface mounting a metal
> > > > back box here (it
> > > > will only be visible and accessible when the oven is removed
> > > > from the oven housing unit)? Or should I use a plastic "surface
> > > > mount" box - they are more bulky and I'll have to go out and
> > > > get one !
> > >
> > > As you say, its not pretty, but in the circumstance that does not
> > > seem to matter. I can't immediately think of a reason for it
> > > being actually "wrong" though as long as its properly earthed -
> > > it will still offer adequate IP protection (assuming you are not
> > > using one with half the knockouts missing!).
> >
> > Even if there are no other knockouts missing I would use a stuffing
> > gland and not a grommet for the cable entry.
>
> or dip into the wall behind it and come in the back...


You could, but I am a lazy bastard and that sounds like too much work when I
have a van full of stuffing grommets.

I forgot the DIY option:-(

--
Adam


stuart noble

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May 20, 2012, 2:08:43 PM5/20/12
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The nice thing about a cooker socket with a plug connection is that you
can easily isolate the rest of the wiring and still have a plug socket
to use.

sm_jamieson

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May 21, 2012, 3:51:09 AM5/21/12
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Well in the end I got a plastic box as I had to go out anyway. I got a 30mm and 40mm box (MK seem to not do 25 / 32 / 47 sizes for the surface mount boxes), and I destroyed the 30mm one trying to remove the snap-outs and then some, to make a cable entry wide enough for 6mm cable.
So I ended up using the 40mm box with the wide enough snap-outs and dug it into the wall a bit. It would have been just as simple and cheaper to sink the metal box !
Oh well, things go that way sometimes ...
Simon.

NT

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May 21, 2012, 6:28:36 AM5/21/12
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I'm scratcing my head at how that would work


NT

The Other Mike

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May 21, 2012, 8:53:05 AM5/21/12
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On Mon, 21 May 2012 03:28:36 -0700 (PDT), NT <meow...@care2.com>
wrote:

>On May 20, 7:08 pm, stuart noble <stuart_no...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>> On 19/05/2012 19:57, NT wrote:
.
>>
>> The nice thing about a cooker socket with a plug connection is that you
>> can easily isolate the rest of the wiring and still have a plug socket
>> to use.
>
>I'm scratcing my head at how that would work

<guessing>

Remove cooker from kitchen, wheel arc welder in to spalce now vacated
by cooker removal. Plug in.

Then you have a spare socket for the angle grinder and lots of space
to store duct tape.

</guessing>

--

John Rumm

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May 21, 2012, 10:09:24 AM5/21/12
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I assume the logic is that it gives you a single socket on its "own"
circuit, that can remain powered, even when all the other socket
circuits are turned off.
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