Scutch comb chisels are the best:
Tim S
for back box sinking. Good control and less shock imparted to the wall as
far as I can see.
But, is there a good way to stop the comb from sliding around in the holder?
I mean it's tight as in you need a vice to shift it - but when the SDS gets
going it tends to work it's way quite quickly to one side, then onto an
angle then fall off.
I have to take the bit out of the drill every few minutes and give it a
whack against a clubhammer to reset it.
I'm not missing something obvious am I?
John Rumm
A jubilee clip round the end of the bit perhaps?
--
Cheers,
John.
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Tim S
> Tim S wrote:
>>
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Armeg-Armeg-SDS+-Scutch-Comb-Holder-655470.htm
>>
>> for back box sinking. Good control and less shock imparted to the wall as
>> far as I can see.
>>
>> But, is there a good way to stop the comb from sliding around in the
>> holder? I mean it's tight as in you need a vice to shift it - but when
>> the SDS gets going it tends to work it's way quite quickly to one side,
>> then onto an angle then fall off.
>>
>> I have to take the bit out of the drill every few minutes and give it a
>> whack against a clubhammer to reset it.
>>
>> I'm not missing something obvious am I?
>
> A jubilee clip round the end of the bit perhaps?
>
I'll give it try - ta!
ARWadsworth
"Tim S" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:49facb57$0$515$5a6a...@news.aaisp.net.uk...
I had considered buying one of those.
That has stopped me buying one. I will stick to the chisels.
Adam
Tim S
No really - the chiselling action is second to none. You can get flat backs
to the box holes and with a 2kg Hitachi (powerful but subtle) I don't end
up shaking the whole wall to bits.
I'm surprised they didn't put a locking pin in though, or just put some nibs
on the ends of the jaw slot. Might ring Armeg and tell them...
I'll persevere - there must be an answer. Jubilee clip first...
BTW - the Aldi wall chaser is holding up well. Munched its way through some
old metal capping and VIR cable yesterday. Apart from the sparks and
stinking rubber smell, seems none the worse.
I am sticking to 16mm oval conduit on the basis 2 round wires (coax, cat5
etc) go down it, or anything upto about 4mm2 on the mains side.
Plaster is deep enough so chasing is easier - slot to the brick face and pop
the fillet out. Did do one for 20mm round conduit, but whilst not that
hard, was somewhat more boring to knock the brick out too.
Slightly annoying thing: Aldi wall chaser set for 20mm slot is slightly too
tight for a 20mm cranked chaser chisel[1] and all my other chisels are too
big. Had to set the Aldi for 30mm chases (or whatever).
[1] Chisel binds and most of the SDS output transmits to the entire wall -
not good.
1m long 20mm SDS drill works for getting behind coving - as per John Rumm's
wiki about getting behind skirting.
Cheers
Tim
Andy Dingley
> But, is there a good way to stop the comb from sliding around in the holder?
Jubilee clip is traditional, it the holder is approximately round
enough (the "stainless strip on a roll" DIY worm-drive clips are
usually more flexible than original Jubilees)
Tie-wraps work but wear out quickly, or instantly if they catch the
side of what you're chiselling. OK for carving, pretty much unworkable
down a box sink.
The way I was shown (originally for manual ones, but it works for SDS
too) is to use a centre punch to raise a crater or two on the surface
of a new comb. This is not only an indent, but also a raised lip.
Getting the lip height right gives just enough friction to hold it in
place, assuming a few light taps to get it installed.
A wrap of insulation tape doesn't last, but self-amalg does if you
leave it a while to bond before using it.
Tim S
> On 30 Apr, 22:43, Tim S <t...@dionic.net> wrote:
>
>> But, is there a good way to stop the comb from sliding around in the
>> holder?
>
> Jubilee clip is traditional, it the holder is approximately round
> enough (the "stainless strip on a roll" DIY worm-drive clips are
> usually more flexible than original Jubilees)
>
> Tie-wraps work but wear out quickly, or instantly if they catch the
> side of what you're chiselling. OK for carving, pretty much unworkable
> down a box sink.
>
> The way I was shown (originally for manual ones, but it works for SDS
> too) is to use a centre punch to raise a crater or two on the surface
> of a new comb. This is not only an indent, but also a raised lip.
> Getting the lip height right gives just enough friction to hold it in
> place, assuming a few light taps to get it installed.
Thanks Andy - I'll give that a try today.
> A wrap of insulation tape doesn't last, but self-amalg does if you
> leave it a while to bond before using it.
I just this minute rang Armeg technical. They said that they didn't close
the slot ends off (obvious solution) because they didn't want to restrict
the market to using their combs only (fair enough). Same problem applied to
putting a locking pin in - as generic combs don't have a hole.
They said they'd send me a couple of their own combs gratis, to see if they
worked better. They even offered to take the chisel back to see if their
was a defect, but I assured them it seemed fine in itself (holds the bit
pretty tight).
We also mused about me trying to grind one of my combs shorter so there was
no overhang - I'll try that after your centrepunch idea.
Cheers
Tim
Scott M
> I'm not missing something obvious am I?
Depending on how hard the tool is, how about a 4mm hole through the
whole shebang and a short nut and bolt?
--
Scott
Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
Tim S
> Tim S wrote:
>
>> I'm not missing something obvious am I?
>
> Depending on how hard the tool is, how about a 4mm hole through the
> whole shebang and a short nut and bolt?
>
Hard enough that when I tried Andy's centre punch idea, I made a visible
mark that you couldn't feel on the comb, and the pointy bit on my
(admittedly antique) punch is now flat!
The only way through one of those is with a grinder!