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Dado rail - fixing suggestions
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larkim
Dec 12, 2011, 8:15:47 AM12/12/11
to
(Ignoring the aesthetic of such rails...)
I need to fix a new dado to the hall and wall up the stairs. Wall is
new plaster on 1905 brickwork, with wallpaper on top.
I understand the logic that would discount gripfill / no more nails on
the basis that they would only be as strong as the wallpaper paste
holding up the paper (albeit spread over a larger area etc etc), so
some form of hard fixing is required, probably in addition to some
adhesive.
My quandry is that, once presented to the wall, how to I match any
holes in the dado into holes in the wall to put fixings through?
Would I drill both in-situ, or do I have to do some very careful
marking up. If drilling through, what is the neatest way to hide the
holes created?
All help gratefully received!
Matt
I need to fix a new dado to the hall and wall up the stairs. Wall is
new plaster on 1905 brickwork, with wallpaper on top.
I understand the logic that would discount gripfill / no more nails on
the basis that they would only be as strong as the wallpaper paste
holding up the paper (albeit spread over a larger area etc etc), so
some form of hard fixing is required, probably in addition to some
adhesive.
My quandry is that, once presented to the wall, how to I match any
holes in the dado into holes in the wall to put fixings through?
Would I drill both in-situ, or do I have to do some very careful
marking up. If drilling through, what is the neatest way to hide the
holes created?
All help gratefully received!
Matt
Reentrant
Dec 12, 2011, 10:02:27 AM12/12/11
to
hide the hole if neccesary with filler.
Is the rail being painted or varnished?
--
Reentrant
Paul D Smith
Dec 12, 2011, 10:09:44 AM12/12/11
to
"Reentrant" <nos...@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
news:9kmjc8...@mid.individual.net...
I've taken this route, although I also used no-more-nails (why did you
wallpaper first???). A tip though, punch the nails in further than you
expect as I found it difficult to then fill over the heads. You might also
want to pre-drill to avoid splitting the dado rail.
Paul DS.
news:9kmjc8...@mid.individual.net...
wallpaper first???). A tip though, punch the nails in further than you
expect as I found it difficult to then fill over the heads. You might also
want to pre-drill to avoid splitting the dado rail.
Paul DS.
John Rumm
Dec 12, 2011, 11:27:37 AM12/12/11
to
On 12/12/2011 13:15, larkim wrote:
varnishing, then part drill with 10mm lip'n'spur drill then through
drill with 5mm bit. Mark the wall through the holes (Bosch multimaterial
bits are good for going through the wood and into the plaster), then
drill and plug. Finally put a 10mm wood plug into the hole (you can buy
them pre cut, or make your own with a plug cutter in a drill press), and
plane it off level.
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
Jonathan
Dec 12, 2011, 11:30:43 AM12/12/11
to
the plaster surface to mark the holes. The use a masonry drill to fit
plugs and screw through from the fron tof the rail. if you countersink
the screws you can cover them with filler before painting.
Jonathan
larkim
Dec 12, 2011, 12:16:47 PM12/12/11
to
Why nails and not screws?
Matt
stuart noble
Dec 12, 2011, 12:35:59 PM12/12/11
to
fixings with Gripfil. Possibly a couple of pins underneath to stop it
sliding or parallel with the moulding to stop it lifting at the ends.
John Rumm
Dec 12, 2011, 2:08:32 PM12/12/11
to
On 12/12/2011 17:16, larkim wrote:
> Why nails and not screws?
Quick, easy, secure enough, no need to drill, align etc.
Harry Bloomfield
Dec 12, 2011, 2:25:16 PM12/12/11
to
After serious thinking larkim wrote :
Gripfill is really all you need, onto the bare plaster surface, along
with a few pins just to hold it into position whilst it sets.
Test it first, before applying the gripfill, just to see if any
sections might need to be pulled into the wall. Then either mark and
drill them or pre-arrange something to push those parts tight into the
wall whilst it sets.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
> I understand the logic that would discount gripfill / no more nails on
> the basis that they would only be as strong as the wallpaper paste
> holding up the paper (albeit spread over a larger area etc etc), so
> some form of hard fixing is required, probably in addition to some
> adhesive.
It will look a bit of a mess when you do need to re-paper or paint it.
> the basis that they would only be as strong as the wallpaper paste
> holding up the paper (albeit spread over a larger area etc etc), so
> some form of hard fixing is required, probably in addition to some
> adhesive.
Gripfill is really all you need, onto the bare plaster surface, along
with a few pins just to hold it into position whilst it sets.
Test it first, before applying the gripfill, just to see if any
sections might need to be pulled into the wall. Then either mark and
drill them or pre-arrange something to push those parts tight into the
wall whilst it sets.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk
TMC
Dec 12, 2011, 3:53:08 PM12/12/11
to
"John Rumm" <see.my.s...@nowhere.null> wrote in message
news:Xr2dnXBQp7XntnvT...@brightview.co.uk...
John for varnished wood
I normally use 5.5 hole through the rail with 8mm part depth for the wooden
blanking plugs cut with a plug cutter
fixing is 5.5mm masonary drill, plug and 2"no 8 screw
With this I can drill straight through the predrilled hole and tap the plug
through with the rail in place
Regards
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