Fixing gate posts to a granite wall
News
We have a metal garden gate hanging from a metal post which is attached
to a granite wall. Fixing is by bolts through the post into wooden
wedges in holes in the granite. Over time, the bolts and wood pull out
of the holes. I'm sure I read here a few weeks/months ago about an
epoxy system of fixing bolts in similar holes. Cannot now find the
thread. Any clues?
Thanks!
--
Graeme
fred
<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> writes
This one?
http://groups.google.co.uk/g/0df7ff00/t/af50ca0b05b1aa0a/d/393f8aea32291a41%3Fhl%3Den%26q
Try this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11337
It's more expensive than other resins but you can use a standard sealant
gun to dispense it so you save if it's just a one off job.
Use solvent cleaned stainless studding cut from a metre length with
stainless nuts and washers, cropping off the excess studding. Align the
post on the studs before the resin goes off completely.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks
Tim Watts
Try the Fischer website for funky details
http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx?page=layer&sprache=EN&kat=$MART-
HK-$MKAT-HK-$MPG-CHEMIE&ekat=$EKAT-HK-EN&path=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK
But for this, cheap Screwfix Resin and stainless M10 or M12 stud (or cut off
bolts) would work very well.
Drill 12mm hole, use tube to blow out *all* the dust, or a little tiny
"bottle brush".
Inject resin - usually 1/2 fill the hole. Ram stud in (I wash in meths first
to degrease). Stud will stay put after 5-10 mins, boltable in a coupl of
hours, full strength in a day.
The tricky bit is aligning the studs. one method is to prop the gate up at
the right height and position and use it to align the studs.
another is to make a little template out of thin wood drilled to match the
hinge holes. Remove wood after 5 minutes and trim excess resin if any,
before it befomes set like steel.
If your needs are unusual or demanding, Fischer will have a resin mix just
for it - but the cheapy stuff is OK for medium loads. A2 stainless is a bit
bendy compared to steel which is why I'd go to M12 for a gate. You could use
the special zinc plated resin studs in M10 or M8 if you have several per
hinge - but they tend to be expensive for what they are. I wouldn't use
plain steel because replacing them will be a PITA if they rust enough.
--
Tim Watts
The Medway Handyman
No need for epoxy if you have an SDS drill. Use self cutting masonry bolts.
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
Easier to pull a sailor off your sister....
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
The Natural Philosopher
Dave Plowman (News)
The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> No need for epoxy if you have an SDS drill. Use self cutting masonry
> bolts.
> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
> Easier to pull a sailor off your sister....
Have you tried them in granite?
--
*Consciousness: That annoying time between naps.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Dean Heighington
> In article <RhbKp.6241$Sr....@newsfe12.ams2>,
> The Medway Handyman <davi...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
>> No need for epoxy if you have an SDS drill. Use self cutting masonry
>> bolts.
>
>> http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+Fixings/Steel+Anchors/d90/sd2040
>
>> Easier to pull a sailor off your sister....
>
> Have you tried them in granite?
Sailors?
--
What else are opposable thumbs for? Get to me at
masterfix{at}btinternet{dot}com
News
>
>http://groups.google.co.uk/g/0df7ff00/t/af50ca0b05b1aa0a/d/393f8aea32291
>a41%3Fhl%3Den%26q
Perfect! Thank you. I was searching using various permutations of
gate, post, bolt, epoxy - should have used resin, not epoxy.
>Try this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11337
>
>It's more expensive than other resins but you can use a standard
>sealant gun to dispense it so you save if it's just a one off job.
Yes, a one off job, so looks ideal.
>
>Use solvent cleaned stainless studding cut from a metre length with
>stainless nuts and washers, cropping off the excess studding. Align the
>post on the studs before the resin goes off completely.
OK. The job is to attach the gate post to the wall. The holes are
already there (in the wall), and the holes in the post align with the
holes in the wall, so, squirt the resin in, push the bolts in the resin,
then hold the post against the wall, with the bolts through the holes,
to ensure everything lines up whilst the resin cures.
Thanks!
--
Graeme
fred
<Gra...@nospam.demon.co.uk> writes
Google groups isn't what it used to be, the only reason I found that
thread again was cos I knew I had contributed so could search via my
details.
One thing, you said bolts, did you mean studs? You really need to use
studs so you can nip up the tension once the resin fully sets (24hrs).
You can't nip up bolts set in resin so the post will be or come loose.
Socket fixings are available for securing into resin and then bolting
but you'd never find them in the common suppliers and the cost would be
ridiculous.
I also noticed that stainless nuts & washer are a bit pricey and only
avail in quantity so fine to use plated and add a dab of paint. Still
good to use stainless on the studding tho' as it's only 5quid a metre in
M10.
News
Yes :-)
>I also noticed that stainless nuts & washer are a bit pricey and only
>avail in quantity so fine to use plated and add a dab of paint. Still
>good to use stainless on the studding tho' as it's only 5quid a metre
>in M10.
Points noted, and thanks again.
--
Graeme