I cut back and cleaned the copper, inserted the Speedfit fittings and some
pipe. I explained that plastic fittings are reduced in size from 15mm to
approx 12mm because of the inserts.
Well time to fill up. I always fill with just fresh water in case of a
swift drains down in case of a problems and lose the inhibitor.
Lo-and-behold one Speedfit fitting was pissing out. A swift drain down. On
inspection the O ring had been pushed out of its housing ring and was
bunched up further down the fitting. The pipe inserted was plastic that
pushed the O ring put. Straight out to buy another fitting before they
closed. Inserted the new fitting and all was fine...well for now. The
expansion creak has gone......but the fittings holding up for a period of
time is another matter. I told him to observe the fittings, and if he
wanted too, I could replace with Marley Equator, Osma Gold or Hep2O, or
better still replace with copper. He said he will let me know, which will
mean if it is OK for a week or so he will leave it because he can't be
bothered. Which will mean if they piss out again he comes around to me
again on a bank holiday Monday.
> Well time to fill up. I always fill with just fresh water in case of a
> swift drains down in case of a problems and lose the inhibitor.
> Lo-and-behold one Speedfit fitting was pissing out. A swift drain down. On
> inspection the O ring had been pushed out of its housing ring and was
> bunched up further down the fitting. The pipe inserted was plastic that
> pushed the O ring put.
This isn't the first time you've mentioned something like this. What
insert did you use? I've found it nearly impossible to intentionally
dislodge an O ring from a SpeedFit fitting.
--
Grunff
>Well time to fill up. I always fill with just fresh water in case of a
>swift drains down in case of a problems and lose the inhibitor.
>Lo-and-behold one Speedfit fitting was pissing out. A swift drain down. On
>inspection the O ring had been pushed out of its housing ring and was
>bunched up further down the fitting. The pipe inserted was plastic that
>pushed the O ring put.
What did you use to cut the pipe and which insert did you use?
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Wow, shows what sort of a job a 'pro' can manage.
And you don't have any copper either?
I guess you don't keep spares or tools at IMM mansions.
Must all be down at that commercial unit.
Tip: Don't take it apart and fiddle with all the bits before wrongly
re-assembling it next time. Use Equator to avoid the temptation to meddle.
--
Toby.
'One day son, all this will be finished'
The older one without the O ring on them. All the shed sell only the older
type. That wasn't the problem though. Wickes and Homebase sell Speedfit
fitting under their own name, well Wickes does say Speedfit on it.
> I've found it nearly impossible to intentionally
> dislodge an O ring from a SpeedFit fitting.
This one was dislodged with relative ease.
> Tip: Don't take it apart and fiddle with all the bits before wrongly
> re-assembling it next time. Use Equator to avoid the temptation to meddle.
SpeedFit fittings can't be taken apart like Hep ones. But I've gotta
say, I've never had any problems with either make.
--
Grunff
A hacksaw and trimmed it off with Stanley knife to remove an burred edges.
The insert butted right up against the pipe. The insert was not the
problem, the problem was the poor fittings...fittings made by an ex toy
maker. The toy box is the best place for them.
You are right .....when using inferior fittings. Best avoided.
> A hacksaw and trimmed it off with Stanley knife to remove an burred edges.
ROFL!! You're a real pro...
> The insert butted right up against the pipe. The insert was not the
> problem, the problem was the poor fittings...fittings made by an ex toy
> maker. The toy box is the best place for them.
And for your junior hacksaw.
--
Grunff
Don't you have a pipe cutter?
Christian.
I am. No cutter available so did the same thing with two other tools. You
would have left the job and waited another day to buy a £20 cutter. Sad
isn't it. How amateur.
> > The insert butted right up against the pipe. The insert was not the
> > problem, the problem was the poor fittings...fittings made by an ex toy
> > maker. The toy box is the best place for them.
>
> And for your junior hacksaw.
You have junior hacksaws in your kids toy box! How irresponsible!
Yes, but it wasn't to hand.
> SpeedFit fittings can't be taken apart like Hep ones. But I've gotta
> say, I've never had any problems with either make.
>
Yes they can, I have one here in pieces. Though this is one of the
"tiwst lock" ones which also seem to hold better.
As a test I tried pulling a pipe out of a locked Speedfit fitting, and
they don't come out. Unlike the earlier ones... ;)
Lee
--
Email address is valid, but is unlikely to be read.
So you had no tools or parts to hand and in your expert opinion, only
poor quality parts were available. Perhaps you should have advised your
friend to call someone else.
Nick Brooks
Poor quality they certainly were.
> Perhaps you should have advised your
> friend to call someone else.
On a bank holiday Monday? You are probably right.
Are you defending a poor quality system?
What Hepworth say...
>>>>
We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter, however any pipe cutter
designed to cut plastics pipes should be suitable. One of the major
advantages of a purpose designed cutter is speed, however the requirements
for the cutter are that it should cut the tube square without scoring or
scratching the pipe or leaving burrs or swarf which could get under the 'O'
ring. It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used.
The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
square cut using a variety of tools.
The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team
<<<<
An amateur will make a hash of it if the cutters are not available. You see
a professional will achieve a nice burr free square cut with tools
available.
No. I'm question your judgement in fitting parts YOU considered were
substandard
I have an open mind on plastic vs copper (and usually use copper).
Nevertheless (and just for interest)...
Call me simple minded (many have) but I can't quite see how quoting a piece
from the manufacturers saying "..hacksaws should not be used.", is in any
way a justification for using hacksaws.
--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)
A professional see can the merits of a good or bad design and quality of
materials used. Speedfit fail on both points. What amazes me, is that the
fittings are not exactly cheap either. Superior systems are generally
cheaper than Speedfit.
Polyplumb and Hep2O are superior in that you can ensure the O ring is on the
pipe by dismantling the fittings and sliding on the O ring and grab ring.
The problem with these is that they are bulky and ugly looking. Polyplumb
is the only plastic H&C pipe maker I know that an appliance maker does not
recommend.
Just shows that even idiot proof systems are no match for you.
mrcheerful
Idiot proof? You are marketing sucker. An ad' mans dream.
> Call me simple minded (many have) but I can't quite see how quoting a piece
> from the manufacturers saying "..hacksaws should not be used.", is in any
> way a justification for using hacksaws.
Just what I was going to say. He says he trimmed it with a Stanley knife - it
would have been simpler, quicker and a better result to just cut the pipe with
that!
Peter
It is clear they meant just cutting with a hacksaw and nothing else. They
also said "The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly
acceptable clean,square cut using a variety of tools.". Which I did.
> Just what I was going to say. He says he trimmed it with a Stanley
knife - it
> would have been simpler, quicker and a better result to just cut the pipe
with
> that!
No. The hacksaw gives a square cut and the Stanley knife trims off. You
could just use a Stanley knife, but getting a square cut is difficult and
cutting though the pipe would be difficult.
That's wrong. They specifically tell you to use a proper cutter and
not a hacksaw so that the pipe is cut properly square and doesn't have
burred ends in the first place.
If you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then any criticism
of the product is a waste of time.
>
>"Grunff" <gru...@ixxa.com> wrote in message
>news:c78d5h$t3n1$1...@ID-152899.news.uni-berlin.de...
>> IMM wrote:
>>
>> > A hacksaw and trimmed it off with Stanley knife to remove an burred
>edges.
>>
>> ROFL!! You're a real pro...
>
>What Hepworth say...
>
>>>>>
>We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter, however any pipe cutter
>designed to cut plastics pipes should be suitable. One of the major
>advantages of a purpose designed cutter is speed, however the requirements
>for the cutter are that it should cut the tube square without scoring or
>scratching the pipe or leaving burrs or swarf which could get under the 'O'
>ring. It is for this reason that hacksaws should not be used.
>
>The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
>square cut using a variety of tools.
which does not include a hacksaw.
>
>The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team
><<<<
>
>An amateur will make a hash of it if the cutters are not available. You see
>a professional will achieve a nice burr free square cut with tools
>available.
>
I think not. A professional would have the proper tools.
This is a typical example of your "doing it on the cheap" mentality,
and this time you have come unstuck.
Trying to then pretend that the product is faulty is ridiculous and
fools nobody except yourself.
Particularly as the result of using the hacksaw is exactly as they described
in the instructions.
Christian.
Plastic pipe has a higher impact resistance than copper, is not prone
to
corrosion in harsh environments, is more insulating than copper
resulting in
reduced heat loss on pipe runs where it is wasted heat, appears (at
least
for most of us) to be capable of carrying fluids without leakage, is
more
flexible - enabling joists to be drilled not notched thereby improving
the
structural stability of my house and reducing the chances of "ramming"
a
nail through it in the first place, oh and its quicker to assemble and
easier for the layman (with appropriate tools I accept!) to get right,
thereby offsetting the increased purchase cost with reduced labour
charges,
on top of which its easier to make changes to layout. In fact having
entirely replumbed my last house central heating and all in plastic
(except
1st metre from boiler) the only place where I found copper more
attractive
was when it came to retro-fitting a garden tap, where it was only
preferable
because B&Q sold a garden tap kit including a self cutting tap, for
less
than the price of a bib tap with a non-return valve. Hence I undid 2
of my
plastic connectors (one speedfit, 1 Hep - easy job) and inserted a
short
length of copper pipe to enable the self cutter to work. Oh and by the
way I
forgot to mention that plastic pipe reduces the risk of electric shock
particularly in bathroom and kitchen environments.
Sorry to rant, but sometimes you just have to!
Fash
Incidentally I agree with most of the other posts on this subject and
suspect that knawing through the pipe with my teeth I could still
effect a water-tight joint.
Total balls. I know how to cut plastic square with no sharp or burred edges.
Never said that.
> >The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team
> ><<<<
> >
> >An amateur will make a hash of it if the cutters are not available. You
see
> >a professional will achieve a nice burr free square cut with tools
> >available.
>
> I think not. A professional would have the proper tools.
If he was doing a job during the day, not helping out during the evening.
> Trying to then pretend that the product
> is faulty is ridiculous
The product is poor. How would you know anyway?
The idea is to get a square burr free cut. This was achieved. Even
Hepworth say you don't need the makers cutters.
You mean it is resilient.
> is not prone to corrosion in harsh environments,
A domestic house is not a harsh environment.
> is more insulating than copper
> resulting in reduced heat loss on pipe
> runs where it is wasted heat,
You are supposed to lag "all" pipes anyhow, so not relevant.
> appears (at least for most of us) to be capable
> of carrying fluids without leakage,
You have little experience of plastic then.
> is more flexible - enabling joists to be drilled
> not notched thereby improving
> the structural stability of my house and
> reducing the chances of "ramming"
> a nail through it in the first place,
Poor workman ship cannot be accounted for.
> oh and its quicker to assemble and
> easier for the layman (with appropriate tools
> I accept!) to get right, thereby offsetting the
> increased purchase cost with reduced labour
> charges, on top of which its easier to make
> changes to layout.
In short, it is amied at naive DIYers.
> In fact having entirely replumbed my last house
> central heating and all in plastic (except
> 1st metre from boiler)
Wait and see.
> the only place where I found copper more
> attractive was when it came to retro-fitting
> a garden tap, where it was only
> preferable because B&Q sold a garden tap
> kit including a self cutting tap, for
> less than the price of a bib tap with a
> non-return valve. Hence I undid 2
> of my plastic connectors (one speedfit,
> 1 Hep - easy job) and inserted a
> short length of copper pipe to enable the
> self cutter to work.
A professional does not install such rubbish. He does it properly.
> Oh and by the way I forgot to mention that
> plastic pipe reduces the risk of electric shock
> particularly in bathroom and kitchen environments.
You should have the earthing done properly.
> Sorry to rant, but sometimes you just have to!
Best you don't and you made a fool of yourself.
> Incidentally I agree with most of the
> other posts on this subject
Which say what?
> and suspect that knawing through the pipe
> with my teeth I could still
> effect a water-tight joint.
Could you prevent the O ring from taking a walk as well?
>
> What Hepworth say...
>
>>>>>
> We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter,
>
>It is for this reason that
> hacksaws should not be used.
>
> The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
> clean, square cut using a variety of tools.
>
>
> An amateur will make a hash of it if the cutters are not >available.
Well I think you have just quoted the problem,
If you had chamfered the edge of the pipe correctly this would not have
happened.
Amateur is perhaps a fair description.
I did not. A square clean cut with no burrs.
> I've used Speedfit as well as other brands
> on numerous occasions and
> simply followed the instructions,.
I folowed them too and the O ring went for a walk. Poor quality. Best you
rip out all this crap you have installed and do it properly.
> I've never had any problems.
More you are lucky.
> >No. The hacksaw gives a square cut and the Stanley knife trims off. You
> >could just use a Stanley knife, but getting a square cut is difficult and
> >cutting though the pipe would be difficult.
>
> The recommended way is to use a pipe cutter,
So do Hepworth but say you can get a square clean cut in other ways too. A
had a square clean cut.
> and it is quite obvious why.
What are you on about?
You are defending a poor product. Use it if you like. Make them millions
while ceilings collapse because of failures. Be my guest. get flooded out,
you deserve too.
--
David
I have been using speedfit for years and have only had one failure, and that
was using it on chromed pipe. On readnig the booklet it says not suitable
for chromed pipe. Learnt the hard way that day, however, I always use the
correct cutter and have never had a failure.
But it is not Hepworth, it is JG Speedfit.
< snip drivel >
Bertie, how is the clinic these days/?
They now say it is suitable for chromed pipe. They can't make minds up.
> Learnt the hard way that day, however, I always use the
> correct cutter and have never had a failure.
You are a luck DIYer then. Take heed if you don't want a big problems.
Plastic barrier is well, err, err, plastic barrier pipe. The makers want
you to pay £20-30 for a cutter, which is robbery.
No professional, who uses coper, speedfit, and is not keen on hep20 as the
fittings are not reusable.
Do a Google og DIY fool...Read on ......
On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 14:56:22 +0000, Grunff <gru...@ixxa.com> wrote:
>Witchy wrote:
>
>> All my plumbing work apart from the stuff
>> round boilers has been with
>> Speedfit and I've only had one elbow joint
>> fail on me in 4 years.
>
>What was the failure mode?
A large portion of the o-ring is missing on one side (for some reason said
fitting is still in front of me). The bizarre thing is it didn't leak
straight away but waited a couple of weeks!
>> Oh, and try to avoid getting the 25m
>> rolls of pipe 'cos it's a bitch
>> to work with!
>
>It's evil, evil I tell you.
Oh yes, particularly in short runs....grrrrr.....
--
cheers,
witchy/binarydinosaurs
--
David
Never the less, having recently plumbed in a new sink and washing machine
using plastic pipes and a combination of Hep20 and speedfit I would tend to
agree with you that Speedfit is inferior. I tried to use the Hep20 fittings
where I was able to and Speedfit only where I might need to remove the
fittings some time in the future.
IIRC the plumbing disaster (House was in Harrogate) that the project manager
in the BBC1s Million Pound Property experiment had to try and fix while
those two eejits Justin and Colin stood around laughing was caused by a
Speedfit Style fitting just under the sink.
--
Big Al
£20 - £30....?
gosh I picked mine up for £8
I remember reading, about a couple of months ago on the NG, someone said
that he used pruning shears.....
--
troubleinstore
www.tuppencechange.co.uk
Bertie, you don't. And you do don't use Speedfit as it is a poor product.
A cautionary tale me old chap.
They have. Ask them again. What make of plastic system?
Speedfit is pants (note Cockneyism). It's the worst. Marley Equator and
Osma Gold I consider the best with Hep2O at No. 3, Polyplumb I put above
Speedfit.
Unipipe is also good and when bent maintains its shape and does not try and
spring back.
But copper beats em all.
You live and learn, but I don't tend to carry three different types of
pipework.
Steve Dawson
Then you should know better. That's if you are a pro and not just a jobber.
Polyplumb is reusable, using a new O ring. Equator and Osma Gold are too.
BTW, I used a small section using Equator fittings and Equator pipe. I had
some hanging around. This was sound. the Speedfit stuff .... well a
disasrter. Real cheap (not in price) and nasty.
--
David
Osma Gold is freely available in T&P. Equator is good but not freely
available. Speedfit (with own shed brandings) is just about everywhere.
Must a have a big mark-up in profits for them to all stock it. It is geared
to the DIYer.
The serious plumbing merchants tend to use Osma, Equator or Hep2O.
You fool!
< snip tripe >
However, my concern is how these things will survive time. "O" rings
eventually perish and fail in most places, and I expect these to eventually
also. If I have an inaccessable soldered copper joint under a floor
somewhere I can be confident that if it doesn't leak on the day it's fitted,
it won't leak in 20 years time also. However, if I had a speedshit fitting
inaccessable it would concern me.
For this reason, every joint I have in my house and others I have plumbed is
soldered copper, with the exception of the unavoidiable compression fit on
the ends of taps etc. And I really don't like compression either!
Soldered may be slower, but I feel time spent using the tried-n-tested
method will be years extra in time the installation lasts. Also, I find
soldered look neater, tidier, and better in cramped spaces than any other
plumbing system.
Alan.
OK you have had a poorly made Push fit fitting, the production line probably
makes thousands a day and they no doubt have a defects per million rate and
you no doubt got there one and only defective fitting that day.
All I can say is don't be so protective of your workmanship, everyone can
make a mistake but if you used a hacksaw there is no way you can say you got
a square cut.
Just get over it and move on
Cheers Kev
>£20 - £30....?
>gosh I picked mine up for £8
Mine were free, proper Hilmor ones as well.
>I remember reading, about a couple of months ago on the NG, someone said
>that he used pruning shears.....
(Rougharse)
--
SJW
A.C.S. Ltd.
> I've only ever used 4 speedfit fittings on the ends of a shower pump in /
> out feeds I fitted last week, because I had no choice as they were on the
> ends of the supplied flexi pipes in and out.
> I was very dubious when turning on the water system expecting at least a
> dribble, but nothing, all worked as they should.
>
> However, my concern is how these things will survive time. "O" rings
> eventually perish and fail in most places, and I expect these to
eventually
> also. If I have an inaccessable soldered copper joint under a floor
> somewhere I can be confident that if it doesn't leak on the day it's
fitted,
> it won't leak in 20 years time also. However, if I had a speedshit fitting
> inaccessable it would concern me.
>
> For this reason, every joint I have in my house and others I have plumbed
is
> soldered copper, with the exception of the unavoidiable compression fit on
> the ends of taps etc. And I really don't like compression either!
>
> Soldered may be slower, but I feel time spent using the tried-n-tested
> method will be years extra in time the installation lasts. Also, I find
> soldered look neater, tidier, and better in cramped spaces than any other
> plumbing system.
>
> Alan.
In first fix on new builds I have seen professionals do soldered jobs faster
than using plastic pushfit. Putting in copper pipe with fittings that push
together with a some flux in is quick and easy. Less clips to support it
too. Then it is a matter of going around and soldering the fittings. A two
man team can do this in no time at all. And the cost is a fraction of the
plastic stuff.
No you haven't, you're making that up, I've told you before about
telling porkies on newsgroups
> Putting in copper pipe with fittings that push
>together with a some flux in is quick and easy. Less clips to support it
>too. Then it is a matter of going around and soldering the fittings. A two
>man team can do this in no time at all. And the cost is a fraction of the
>plastic stuff.
>
>
--
David
Bertie, you will have many leaks.
< snip tripe >
Bertie, how is the cowboy game going?
Do a Google and the failures on Speedfit is quite common.
> All I can say is don't be so protective of your workmanship, everyone can
> make a mistake but if you used a hacksaw there is no way you can say you
got
> a square cut.
My workmanship is second to none. Read what I did when I cut the pipe.
>>> What Hepworth say...
>>>
>>>>>>>
>>> We do recommend the use of a Hep2O pipe cutter,
>>>
>>> It is for this reason that
>>> hacksaws should not be used.
>>>
>>> The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
>>> clean, square cut using a variety of tools.
>>>
>>> An amateur will make a hash of it if the cutters are not >available.
>>
>> Well I think you have just quoted the problem,
>> If you had chamfered the edge of the pipe
>> correctly this would not have happened.
>> Amateur is perhaps a fair description.
>
> You are defending a poor product. Use it if you like. Make them
> millions while ceilings collapse because of failures. Be my guest.
> get flooded out, you deserve too.
No ive had end feed copper leak because I hadn't cleaned it properly
Compression fittings leak because I had reused old pipe and olive
Even had push-fit wastes leak because I had dislodged the O ring when
fitting pipe.
The difference is that I freely admit it to being my fault and not try to
blame my cock-up on the product, as you seem to be doing.
Poor workmanship.
> Compression fittings leak because I had
> reused old pipe and olive
Always use a new olive.
> Even had push-fit wastes leak because I had dislodged the O ring when
> fitting pipe.
Sounds like Speedfit.
> The difference is that I freely admit it to being my fault and not try to
> blame my cock-up on the product, as you seem to be doing.
The product was faulty. Very clear. If I say it was faulty...it was
faulty. I need no amateur to tell me that or not.
None yet because I did it properly, with the proper tools for the job,
you could do with taking a leaf out of my book John, may I suggest you
re-read this thread and take note of what I and others have said and you
might be able to avoid the pitfalls next time, I know that these things
can be difficult for the inexperienced but if you just take the time and
do some research you will be able to do a better job next time
--
David
>
>
>They now say it is suitable for chromed pipe. They can't make minds up.
>
>> Learnt the hard way that day, however, I always use the
>> correct cutter and have never had a failure.
>
>You are a luck DIYer then. Take heed if you don't want a big problems.
>
I don't think so. It's a simple case of reading the instructions and
doing what they say.
Sorry John you've lost me there especially as you have just performed a
classic cowboy operation, turned up without the proper tools for the job
and bodged it up, they make TV programs about people like you
--
David
>
>"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
>news:9glf90p71a6dd27ua...@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 4 May 2004 17:49:24 +0100, "IMM" <abus...@easy.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Clearly you didn't or you fumbled the job in some other way.
>
>I did not. A square clean cut with no burrs.
Obviously it wasn't or you wouldn't have had the problem, or you
fumbled it in some other way.
>
>> I've used Speedfit as well as other brands
>> on numerous occasions and
>> simply followed the instructions,.
>
>I folowed them too and the O ring went for a walk.
You didn't because you didn't use the recommended cutter.
>Poor quality. Best you
>rip out all this crap you have installed and do it properly.
The only crap that needs to be ripped out is that which you seem to be
spouting on this subject.
>
>> I've never had any problems.
>
>More you are lucky.
I don't take chances, nor do I do bodges. I do read the
instructions, buy the correct fittings and tools and do the job
properly.
You just don't want to admit that you screwed up when it's patently
obvious that that is what has happened.
>
>> >No. The hacksaw gives a square cut and the Stanley knife trims off. You
>> >could just use a Stanley knife, but getting a square cut is difficult and
>> >cutting though the pipe would be difficult.
>>
>> The recommended way is to use a pipe cutter,
>
>So do Hepworth but say you can get a square clean cut in other ways too. A
>had a square clean cut.
Obviously you did something wrong or it would have worked.
>
>> and it is quite obvious why.
>
>What are you on about?
>
That you didn't follow the instructions.
John, the problem is that you didn't use the correct cutting tool so
ended up with a sharp edge that dislodged the O ring as you pushed the
pipe in, now learn from this mistake and use the correct tool and
procedures next time, its quite simple, I've done lots without any
trouble so can offer advice if need be
--
David
>
>"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
>news:ckif90dsk88oev7en...@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 4 May 2004 17:03:44 +0100, "IMM" <abus...@easy.com> wrote:
>>
>> I think not. A professional would have the proper tools.
>
>If he was doing a job during the day, not helping out during the evening.
So you bodged it, made the situation worse, and rather than admitting
that you screwed up you seek to blame a product when you haven't
followed the instructions.
Next, you'll be blaming the manufacturer of your petrol car because
you put diesel in it and now it doesn't work.
>
>> Trying to then pretend that the product
>> is faulty is ridiculous
>
>The product is poor. How would you know anyway?
>
I've always followed the instructions, which are very simple anyway
and never had a problem. As far as I am concerned it does what it
says it does.
>
>"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
>
>>
>>
>> That's wrong. They specifically tell you to use a proper cutter and
>> not a hacksaw so that the pipe is cut properly square and doesn't have
>> burred ends in the first place.
>>
>> If you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then any criticism
>> of the product is a waste of time.
>
>Total balls. I know how to cut plastic square with no sharp or burred edges.
>
Yes of course you do.
Doesn't it strike you as strange that everybody else who has used this
properly and followed the instructions has not had a problem and yet
you, who has decided that he knows better than the manufacturers about
their products runs into trouble and makes a cock up?
Bertie, you are a cowboy type. That is clear.
< snip tripe >
>
>"Stephen Fasham" <stephe...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:f12603d8.04050...@posting.google.com...
>> What is it with the copper thing?
>>
>> Plastic pipe has a higher impact resistance
>> than copper,
>
>You mean it is resilient.
>
>> is not prone to corrosion in harsh environments,
>
>A domestic house is not a harsh environment.
It does seem to be when you are doing plumbing in one......
Done. And it failed. Now go and strip out that plastic stuff in your
house right away.
Bertie,..
< snip tripe >
> John, the problem is that you didn't use the correct cutting tool so
> ended up with a sharp edge that dislodged the O ring as you pushed the
> pipe in, now learn from this mistake and use the correct tool and
> procedures next time, its quite simple, I've done lots without any
> trouble so can offer advice if need be
Still doesn't add up. Have you tried pushing the O ring out of place on
a speedfit? It really isn't easy.
--
Grunff
No. A clean straight, no-burr edge to the pipe was produced.
< snip babble >
> >The product is poor. How would you know anyway?
>
> I've always followed the instructions,
That is good.
It was.
> >> I've used Speedfit as well as other brands
> >> on numerous occasions and
> >> simply followed the instructions,.
> >
> >I folowed them too and the O ring went for a walk.
>
> You didn't because you didn't use the recommended cutter.
The cutter had nothing to so with it. Yu can't understand this not being
very bright.
> >Poor quality. Best you
> >rip out all this crap you have installed and do it properly.
>
> The only crap that needs to be ripped out is that which you seem to be
> spouting on this subject.
ANDY, RIP THAT STUFF OUT NOW, BEFORE THE CEILING COMES DOWN.
> >> I've never had any problems.
> >
> >More you are lucky.
>
> I don't take chances, nor do I do bodges.
But use poor quality fittings.
> >> >No. The hacksaw gives a square cut and the Stanley knife trims off.
You
> >> >could just use a Stanley knife, but getting a square cut is difficult
and
> >> >cutting though the pipe would be difficult.
> >>
> >> The recommended way is to use a pipe cutter,
> >
> >So do Hepworth but say you can get a square clean cut in other ways too.
A
> >had a square clean cut.
>
> Obviously you did something wrong
Nothing wrong. Poor quality fittings. Now rip that crap out now.
> That you didn't follow the instructions.
you really don't know do you.
Thank you.
< snip tripe >
Exactly. Poor quality.
--
David
> Exactly. Poor quality.
Eh?
--
Grunff
So you have fitted a few of these. I know of many failures in the field.
Feedback is poor on these.
Bertie, NO mistake. Only mistake was to use Speedfit. I viewed as
temporary. It may be just that. Rippy outy is a 90% certainty.
Bertie, you don't them for a living. You don't know.
>
>"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
>news:j07g90hgu1d8ias63...@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 4 May 2004 19:06:10 +0100, "IMM" <abus...@easy.com> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
>> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> That's wrong. They specifically tell you to use a proper cutter and
>> >> not a hacksaw so that the pipe is cut properly square and doesn't have
>> >> burred ends in the first place.
>> >>
>> >> If you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions then any criticism
>> >> of the product is a waste of time.
>> >
>> >Total balls. I know how to cut plastic square with no sharp or burred
>edges.
OK, so let's take this one step at a time.
First of all, please refer to
http://www.speedfit.co.uk/makeconnect.asp
"Cut the pipe square ensuring it is free of score marks. When using
Speedfit BPEX barrier pipe, cut along an insertion mark. We recommend
the use of one of the John Guest pipe cutters. For soft or thin walled
plastic pipe we recommend the use of a tube insert or pipe insert."
There is then a picture showing a tubing cutter being used on the
pipe.
Next it says
"NOTE: Do NOT use a hacksaw"
Then there is a picture with a pipe and somebody using a hacksaw,
followed by another showing a mangled pipe end.
Both of these have a red cross in the corner.
Hint: These are not kisses.
Where do you have the slightest shadow of a doubt that using a cutter
and not a hacksaw is the thing to do?
>My workmanship is second to none. Read what I did when I cut the pipe.
>
IMM - I have no idea who you are, or whether in real life you're as
much of a pedantic idiot as you *appear* to be to the uninitiated on
this news group.
Noting certain facts, you seem to have an inability to recognise A)
when *you* may have been the cause of a problem and B) admitting it.
Surely, when you went to the 'shed' to purchase the speedfit fittings,
they had alternative parts (ie copper) in stock. I'm also sure that
your 'friend' would have been only too happy for you to have purchased
whatever was neccessary for you to rectify his problem, in order to
get the job done. It was obvious (to me, anyway) that it must have
been YOUR recommendation to use the speedfit fitting.
You must, by now, realise that many, many people on this newsgroup
seem to find your approach somewhat arrogant to say the least, so
might I suggest a little humility on your part, and perhaps a quick
look in the dictionary under 'sense of humour'.
I'm NOT a plumber, but I can read. I used Speedfit fittings last
weekend when relocating a cold water tap into a new greenhouse. Three
or four fittings, instructions followed to the letter, absolutely no
problem. Simple to use, care taken, work checked as I progressed. I
like the product.
Hope you don't take this mild criticism to heart, and that you have
the ability to learn from your mistake. I wish you well in the future
Tim Nicholson
--
David
--
David
I "don't" them, sorry John you'll have to explain that
--
David
< snip tripe by Bertie >
Bertie, a temporary DIY solution it is. Best do it properly with real pipe
and fittings.
They "recommend" a cutter. What they want is a sqaure cut with no burrs, as
Hepworth say.
> There is then a picture showing a tubing
> cutter being used on the pipe.
Their own expensive one too.
> Next it says
>
> "NOTE: Do NOT use a hacksaw"
>
> Then there is a picture with a pipe and somebody using a hacksaw,
> followed by another showing a mangled pipe end.
Obviously someone who can't use a hacksaw. Using ahacksaw id fine as long
as the edge of the pipe is trimmed off with a sharp blade. What they want is
a sqaure cut with no burrs, as Hepworth say.
Now you know.
< snip stuff by Bertie >
Bertie, this means how are you going along incompetently fitting pipes and
making money out of it.
>
>"Andy Hall" <an...@hall.nospam> wrote in message
>news:q7cg90puahe5aoqgn...@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 4 May 2004 23:51:56 +0100, "IMM" <abus...@easy.com> wrote:
>>
>> OK, so let's take this one step at a time.
>>
>> First of all, please refer to
>>
>> http://www.speedfit.co.uk/makeconnect.asp
>>
>> "Cut the pipe square ensuring it is free of score marks. When using
>> Speedfit BPEX barrier pipe, cut along an insertion mark. We recommend
>> the use of one of the John Guest pipe cutters. For soft or thin walled
>> plastic pipe we recommend the use of a tube insert or pipe insert."
>
>They "recommend" a cutter. What they want is a sqaure cut with no burrs, as
>Hepworth say.
OK, so you chose to ignore the recommendation and you screwed up.
>
>> There is then a picture showing a tubing
>> cutter being used on the pipe.
>
>Their own expensive one too.
No it isn't. Especially if it means that you don't waste fittings or
time as you did. If you don't use the proper tools for a job, you
can't expect to succeed.
>
>> Next it says
>>
>> "NOTE: Do NOT use a hacksaw"
>>
>> Then there is a picture with a pipe and somebody using a hacksaw,
>> followed by another showing a mangled pipe end.
>
>Obviously someone who can't use a hacksaw. Using ahacksaw id fine as long
>as the edge of the pipe is trimmed off with a sharp blade. What they want is
>a sqaure cut with no burrs, as Hepworth say.
>
>Now you know.
>
Now I know that you ignore manufacturer's instructions and then blame
their product.
WHy don't you call JG's technical help desk and tell them what you
did. They could probably do with a good laugh.
You are a fool
< snip tripe >
> Noting certain facts, you seem to have an inability to recognise A)
> when *you* may have been the cause of a problem and
I was not the problem.
B) admitting it.
Not a point.
> Surely, when you went to the 'shed' to purchase the speedfit fittings,
> they had alternative parts (ie copper) in stock. I'm also sure that
> your 'friend' would have been only too happy for you to have purchased
> whatever was neccessary for you to rectify his problem, in order to
> get the job done. It was obvious (to me, anyway) that it must have
> been YOUR recommendation to use the speedfit fitting.
Not enough compression fitting were available, otherwise I would have used
them.
> You must, by now, realise that many, many people on this newsgroup
> seem to find your approach somewhat arrogant to say the least,
Having been eons in the heating business I can afford to be arrogant,
especially when rank amateurs, or jobbers, tell me differently.
> I'm NOT a plumber, but I can read. I used Speedfit fittings last
> weekend when relocating a cold water tap into a new greenhouse. Three
> or four fittings, instructions followed to the letter, absolutely no
> problem. Simple to use, care taken, work checked as I progressed. I
> like the product.
A professional would take heed of what happened to me. he would listen, ask
a few questions, when he realised the job was done properly and there was a
catastrophic failure, he would assess the product. he would assess the
product to the feedback he already has, which would not be favourable
anyhow. Plastic pipe only has approx 10% of the H&C piping market, as it is
viewed as not reliable enough yet.
> Hope you don't take this mild criticism to heart,
It is understandable as you are not a pro.