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Problems fitting a rain diverter for a water butt
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Murmansk
Jul 12, 2017, 10:02:02 AM7/12/17
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y6qws7hx3dkjhs/2017-07-12%2014.45.49.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3vsmlarlzv3iys/2017-07-12%2013.30.15.jpg?dl=0
I need to fit a diverter onto a rainwater pipe so that it will fill a water butt. The attached photos show the diverter and the pipes which I am working with, the left hand pipe is the one I need to access and the first metre of it is cast iron coming out of the ground and then it becomes plastic above the cast iron part and goes all the way up to the gutter.
What should happen is that I cut a 25mm section from the pipe and then push the lower pipe down a few inches to insert the diverter, and then move the pipe up again, but because the pipe at the bottom is cast-iron and very solidly be locked in position I cannot do this.
The length of plastic pipe above the diverter is about 5M long so I can't get up high enough to disconnect it higher up and I need therefore to work out a way of inserting the diverter without being able to move the pipe either up or down.
I'd rather not mess with the connection between the plastic and the cast iron. Once my butt is on its stand the diverter will need to be fitted about 500mm above the join.
Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3vsmlarlzv3iys/2017-07-12%2013.30.15.jpg?dl=0
I need to fit a diverter onto a rainwater pipe so that it will fill a water butt. The attached photos show the diverter and the pipes which I am working with, the left hand pipe is the one I need to access and the first metre of it is cast iron coming out of the ground and then it becomes plastic above the cast iron part and goes all the way up to the gutter.
What should happen is that I cut a 25mm section from the pipe and then push the lower pipe down a few inches to insert the diverter, and then move the pipe up again, but because the pipe at the bottom is cast-iron and very solidly be locked in position I cannot do this.
The length of plastic pipe above the diverter is about 5M long so I can't get up high enough to disconnect it higher up and I need therefore to work out a way of inserting the diverter without being able to move the pipe either up or down.
I'd rather not mess with the connection between the plastic and the cast iron. Once my butt is on its stand the diverter will need to be fitted about 500mm above the join.
Thanks
Martin Brown
Jul 12, 2017, 10:13:41 AM7/12/17
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On 12/07/2017 15:01, Murmansk wrote:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y6qws7hx3dkjhs/2017-07-12%2014.45.49.jpg?dl=0
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3vsmlarlzv3iys/2017-07-12%2013.30.15.jpg?dl=0
>
> I need to fit a diverter onto a rainwater pipe so that it will fill
> a water butt. The attached photos show the diverter and the pipes
> which I am working with, the left hand pipe is the one I need to
> access and the first metre of it is cast iron coming out of the
> ground and then it becomes plastic above the cast iron part and goes
> all the way up to the gutter.
>
> What should happen is that I cut a 25mm section from the pipe and
> then push the lower pipe down a few inches to insert the diverter,
> and then move the pipe up again, but because the pipe at the bottom
> is cast-iron and very solidly be locked in position I cannot do
> this.
Normal way is unclip the long vertical section put the diverter on it
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y6qws7hx3dkjhs/2017-07-12%2014.45.49.jpg?dl=0
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/d3vsmlarlzv3iys/2017-07-12%2013.30.15.jpg?dl=0
>
> I need to fit a diverter onto a rainwater pipe so that it will fill
> a water butt. The attached photos show the diverter and the pipes
> which I am working with, the left hand pipe is the one I need to
> access and the first metre of it is cast iron coming out of the
> ground and then it becomes plastic above the cast iron part and goes
> all the way up to the gutter.
>
> What should happen is that I cut a 25mm section from the pipe and
> then push the lower pipe down a few inches to insert the diverter,
> and then move the pipe up again, but because the pipe at the bottom
> is cast-iron and very solidly be locked in position I cannot do
> this.
and flex both plastic pipes sideways to gain the extra distance.
Expect to have to dismantle and clean it every few years to keep it
working (yearly if you have lots of trees overhanging your roof).
>
> The length of plastic pipe above the diverter is about 5M long so I
> can't get up high enough to disconnect it higher up and I need
> therefore to work out a way of inserting the diverter without being
> able to move the pipe either up or down.
Move it sideways.
> The length of plastic pipe above the diverter is about 5M long so I
> can't get up high enough to disconnect it higher up and I need
> therefore to work out a way of inserting the diverter without being
> able to move the pipe either up or down.
> I'd rather not mess with the connection between the plastic and the
> cast iron. Once my butt is on its stand the diverter will need to be
> fitted about 500mm above the join.
where it breaks unless you are very lucky.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
Martin Brown
Jul 12, 2017, 12:10:13 PM7/12/17
to
On 12/07/2017 15:55, Chris Hogg wrote:
> +1 to all that. If you can't move the lower section sideways, there
> may be enough 'give' in the upper section to push it upwards,
> deforming the gutter a bit, temporarily, to fit the diverter in place.
> Remember that the level of the diverter has to be exactly at the level
> of the water in the butt, for it to work properly. I used concrete
> slabs and spare bits of slate and floor tile to adjust the butt height
> to get mine just right.
My water butt is on a flagstone on top of a couple of stone slabs so its
tap is the right height to easily fit a watering can underneath.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
> may be enough 'give' in the upper section to push it upwards,
> deforming the gutter a bit, temporarily, to fit the diverter in place.
> Remember that the level of the diverter has to be exactly at the level
> of the water in the butt, for it to work properly. I used concrete
> slabs and spare bits of slate and floor tile to adjust the butt height
> to get mine just right.
My water butt is on a flagstone on top of a couple of stone slabs so its
tap is the right height to easily fit a watering can underneath.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
Richard
Jul 13, 2017, 1:56:41 AM7/13/17
to
"Murmansk" wrote in message
news:04937fd5-1444-43e3...@googlegroups.com...
>
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y6qws7hx3dkjhs/2017-07-12%2014.45.49.jpg?dl=0
This photo is intriguing, it is impossible to judge the size of the
diverter.
Just an observation, not a criticism.
news:04937fd5-1444-43e3...@googlegroups.com...
>
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/6y6qws7hx3dkjhs/2017-07-12%2014.45.49.jpg?dl=0
This photo is intriguing, it is impossible to judge the size of the
diverter.
Just an observation, not a criticism.
Brian Gaff
Jul 13, 2017, 3:13:59 AM7/13/17
to
Yes my neighbour has always had a drip from his since it was put in but
seeing as the idiot who built the extension on the other side of my garden
wall built it so close as to make it hard to get at stuff now, there really
is no fix unless I demolish my wall or their extension!
However I have seen some creative water storage things around over the
years.
The one I liked the best was merely a hopper fitted to the cast iron bit
poking up through the ground, and the downpipe from the roof going through a
small cranked pipe to the butt. then a large bore overflow pipe was fitted
to the butt and went to tan angled pipe just above the hopper.
Mind you the neighbour reckoned it started to smell from somewhere at times.
Brian
--
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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
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Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Martin Brown" <'''newspam'''@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ok5aqf$idd$1...@gioia.aioe.org...
seeing as the idiot who built the extension on the other side of my garden
wall built it so close as to make it hard to get at stuff now, there really
is no fix unless I demolish my wall or their extension!
However I have seen some creative water storage things around over the
years.
The one I liked the best was merely a hopper fitted to the cast iron bit
poking up through the ground, and the downpipe from the roof going through a
small cranked pipe to the butt. then a large bore overflow pipe was fitted
to the butt and went to tan angled pipe just above the hopper.
Mind you the neighbour reckoned it started to smell from somewhere at times.
Brian
--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...
bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Martin Brown" <'''newspam'''@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ok5aqf$idd$1...@gioia.aioe.org...
Chris J Dixon
Jul 13, 2017, 5:23:47 AM7/13/17
to
from the diverter, perhaps you could introduce an extra joint.
You haven't given us the dimensions of the pipe or diverter.
Could you get a short length of pipe which would fit outside your
plastic downpipe, and still fit inside the diverter. This would
then telescope to permit installation and inspection?
Otherwise, maybe inserting a flexible joint like this might help:
<http://www.flexseal.co.uk/products/flexible-couplings/standard-couplings-/#.WWc7aOlglEY>
Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
ch...@cdixon.me.uk
Plant amazing Acers.
Murmansk
Jul 13, 2017, 3:18:43 PM7/13/17
to
In the end I just did it and it seemed easy enough after I'd removed slightly more than the 25mm of pipe that was specified.
Thanks for your input though
Thanks for your input though
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