Joining rainwater downpipe

[GMM]

I have a few angles to form in plastic (uPVC) downpipe that don't
correspond to any available fittings, so thought the simple way would be
to cut and join the pipe.
What would be a good idea to join it with? I thought maybe PVC pipe
cement, but PVC waste is much softer than downpipe. Then I thought
superglue/mitre bond, but I suspect that will fall apart easily when
subjected to water.
Any better suggestions folks?
It's not really critical, as none of it's far off the ground, but it
would good to do it once and for all.

[Harry Bloomfield]

GMM formulated on Thursday :

I cannot envisage any that could not be solved with the use of 45 deg
angles, but you can make small angles with the application of heat to
the pipe, to enable the pipe wall to stretch a little. The pipe
suppliers have small tins of the PVC glue needed for the job. It works
by slightly disolving the plastic, to achieve a weld.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

[Roger Mills]

All of the regular fittings effectively 'overlap' the pipe by having a
socket into which the inlet pipe fits , and a spigot which fits into the
outlet pipe. This provides mechanical strength for the joint. Any
attempt simply to butt two pipes and glue them together is unlikely to
work. As others have said, you can nearly always route a pipe to the
right place by using a combination of 90 degree and 45 degree joints.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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[harryagain]

"GMM" <GlMiMa-AT-yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:vOmdnSjZe6bzinDO...@bt.com...

Google "68mm adjustsble bend".
Most manufecturers do them.
Epensive so often not on BM shelf.

[GMM]

On 14/08/2014 21:09, GMM wrote:

Since nobody could answer this, I thought I should do answer it myself,
for the record.

In my particular application, I wanted to deflect the run of pipe by 30
degrees to follow the line of a timber feature (ie a 150 degree joint).
No suitable joints are available for this, the only regular commercial
options being 92.5 and 112.5 (aka 67.5) degrees. Even if the mythical
45 degree joints were available, it is unlikely they would allow this
sort of angle to be fiddled. Interestingly, when I asked for a 45
degree joint at the plumbers merchants, I was offered a 112.5 ("Well, we
call them 45s", said my usually well informed man).

PVC pipe cement works just fine on rainwater downpipe, producing a very
strong joint, although it is undoubtedly advisable to support it each
side of the join when fitted.
By cutting the pipe (on a sliding mitre saw) at half the intended angle,
then turning one piece on its axis through 180 degrees you should, in
principle, get a perfect mitre. Any burrs can be easily wiped off to
give flat mating surfaces.
The tricky part is aligning the the two pieces in exactly the right
position and keeping them there for 10 minutes while the cement sets.
Putting them on a flat surface ensures they are aligned in one plane (a
piece of paper under the joint stops it sticking to the surface).
If the two sections are not properly aligned, there will be gaps between
the mating faces. Although these could probably be filled with pipe
cement or epoxy, it's much better to simply have another stab at it and
get it right.

[Tim+]

Well done! Hopefully this info will be useful to others.

Tim