Damaged worktop: what to do

[F]

I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

--
F

[The Medway Handyman]

Do you have a shed?

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Jim K]

On Dec 7, 8:09 pm, The Medway Handyman <davidl...@blueyonder.co.uk>
wrote:

is it still there?
sleep in it?
guard it?

Jim K

[Nightjar]

On 07/12/2011 19:49, F wrote:

Say 'I know how to stop that happening again' then use a router to cut a
few parallel, equally spaced, 5mm wide, 200mm long round bottomed
grooves, one of which removes the bubble, and set some 5mm diameter x
200mm stainless steel bars into the surface. One invisible repair, one
hot pan stand and it all looks as though it was planned.

Colin Bignell

[The Other Mike]

Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.

Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
eventuality.

Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.


--

[F]

On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:

> Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.
>
> Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
> eventuality.

Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

> Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
> marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.

That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
she's cleaning...

--
F

[F]

On 07/12/2011 20:09 The Medway Handyman wrote:

> Do you have a shed?

No, but there's some decking I could sheet over and then crawl underneath.

--
F

[Frank Erskine]

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F <news@nowhere> wrote:

>On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:
>
>> Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.
>>
>> Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
>> eventuality.
>
>Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
damage?

--
Frank Erskine

[Brian Gaff]

I'm sorry, but you are in for a big job. Unless there is some miracle
material for repairing laminate arrived in the last five years, the whole
top is the only solution.
Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email: bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________


"F" <news@nowhere> wrote in message
news:mqSdnVxTq4K5XkLT...@brightview.co.uk...

[Brian Gaff]

Have you ever tried to do that sort of thing without chipping formica?. The
other problem is that if its actually laminate on some board or other, you
get to find exactly where the glue did not work very well.....

Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email: bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

"Nightjar" <c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk> wrote in message
news:X8mdnS--3bv0R0LT...@giganews.com...

[Andrew May]

I used a piece of spare edging strip kept for such eventualities.

[MuddyMike]

"F" <news@nowhere> wrote in message
news:mqSdnVxTq4K5XkLT...@brightview.co.uk...

Simple. Pick up telephone, call insurance company. That's assuming you have
accidental damage cover.

Mike

[The Other Mike]

Rout it from the back to remove the core, rout it from the front to
remove the formica.

Or use an angle grinder.


--

[The Other Mike]

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F <news@nowhere> wrote:

>On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:
>
>> Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.
>>
>> Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
>> eventuality.
>
>Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.

Not even in the offcuts bargain bin at a DIY shed?

>
>> Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
>> marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.
>
>That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
>originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
>was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.
>
>The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
>water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
>she's cleaning...

Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
sealant round the top edge.

--

[Frank Erskine]

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 09:31:59 +0000, The Other Mike
<rootpa...@somewhereorother.com> wrote:

>On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:22:45 +0000, Frank Erskine
><frank....@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 23:07:05 +0000, F <news@nowhere> wrote:
>>
>>>On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:
>>>
>>>> Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.
>>>>
>>>> Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
>>>> eventuality.
>>>
>>>Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.
>>
>>Even if there had been, how do you remove the Formica from it without
>>damage?
>

<snip>

>Or use an angle grinder.

The correct answer.

:-)

--
Frank Erskine

[F]

On 08/12/2011 09:34 The Other Mike wrote:

>> That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
>> originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
>> was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.
>>
>> The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
>> water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
>> she's cleaning...
>
> Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
> sealant round the top edge.

Sounds like the way to go.

--
F

[F]

On 08/12/2011 09:03 MuddyMike wrote:

> Simple. Pick up telephone, call insurance company. That's assuming you have
> accidental damage cover.

We are covered, and I could do that. The only problem is that come
renewal time they'll most likely up the premium to a level where they
recoup their outlay and more on top.

For that kind of reason I treat household insurance as 'disaster'
insurance rather than 'put cock-ups right' insurance.

--
F

[dennis@home]

"Brian Gaff" <Bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jbpti1$p75$1...@dont-email.me...

> Have you ever tried to do that sort of thing without chipping formica?.
> The other problem is that if its actually laminate on some board or other,
> you get to find exactly where the glue did not work very well.....

I think it should be fine with a down cutting spiral cutter.

[dennis@home]

"Frank Erskine" <frank....@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:g7tvd7trmt5vm91p4...@4ax.com...

Route it from the back?

[F]

As per my original post: I don't have an angle grinder, but I do have
WD40. Reckon it might slide it off if I use enough?

Oh, but I don't have an off-cut either...

--
F

[Tim Lamb]

In message <o011e713b1cghio8c...@4ax.com>, The Other Mike
<rootpa...@somewhereorother.com> writes

Just what we did:-)

Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
Formica these days? 1970 maybe!

Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
repair.

regards


>

--
Tim Lamb

[F]

On 08/12/2011 09:54 Tim Lamb wrote:

> In message <o011e713b1cghio8c...@4ax.com>, The Other Mike
> <rootpa...@somewhereorother.com> writes

>> Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
>> sealant round the top edge.
>
> Just what we did:-)

That's encouraging! Thanks.

> Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
> Formica these days? 1970 maybe!

The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:
http://www.axiomworktops.com/swatch_images/pp3690ahd_basalt_slate.htm

> Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
> spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
> The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
> repair.

The bump looks to be very brittle but your suggestion is worth trying
with the insert idea as an alternative if/when I find it won't shrink
back down.

--
F

[TMC]

"F" <news@nowhere> wrote in message

news:I4idnRNPA5YjG33T...@brightview.co.uk...

I would go with the tile

The stainless bars are fine in solid wood work tops but the groove for them
in formica will expose the core to damp. Stainless plate without insulation
under will I suspect cook the core to some extent

If you can get a decent bevel edge tile or marble pastry board you can set
it proud of the worktop by a couple of mm

This allows for a bit of sealer around the edge and also means that if a hot
pan is put not quite in the right spot it does not touch the surrounding
formica

Regards

[NT]

Might be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
will prove a bad idea.


NT

[Jim K]

a friend has self -dhesive bars a la :-

http://www.selffit-worktops.co.uk/products/6-Stick-On-Worktops-Protector-Pan-Stands.html

(first one I googled)

Jim K

[Andy Burns]

F wrote:

> The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:
> http://www.axiomworktops.com/swatch_images/pp3690ahd_basalt_slate.htm

There's a link on that page that says "order a sample", sounds like the
answer to your "what offcut" question ...

[dennis@home]

"F" <news@nowhere> wrote in message

news:NK6dnWBkL6uSG33T...@brightview.co.uk...

Seal the slot with good varnish before you even think about putting anything
in.

[Tim Lamb]

In message <UdudnbEFSYn0Fn3T...@brightview.co.uk>, F
<news@nowhere.?.invalid> writes

Umm...

Wikipedia has Formica as paper melamine laminate. I don't know how that
would respond to further heating.

Someone else may know.

*Post formed* worktops were popular when we married so you must be able
to bend the stuff. The question is, how?

regards
>

--
Tim Lamb

[Jim K]

On Dec 8, 11:48 am, Tim Lamb <t...@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In message <UdudnbEFSYn0Fn3TnZ2dnUVZ8qydn...@brightview.co.uk>, F

> <news@nowhere.?.invalid> writes
>
>
>
> >On 08/12/2011 09:54 Tim Lamb wrote:
>

> >> In message <o011e713b1cghio8c5gvhcvdgc5mmaa...@4ax.com>, The Other Mike
> >> <rootpassw...@somewhereorother.com> writes

> >>> Bed it in silicone sealant to hold it in place and then run a bead of
> >>> sealant round the top edge.
>
> >> Just what we did:-)
>
> >That's encouraging! Thanks.
>
> >> Going back to the original problem.... is work top finishing actually
> >> Formica these days? 1970 maybe!
>
> >The worktop is Formica Axiom Honed Basalt Slate:http://www.axio
> >mworktops.com/swatch_images/pp3690ahd_basalt_slate.htm
>
> >> Couldn't the *bump* be re-softened with judicious application of heat, a
> >> spot of glue injected and then cramped or weighted back to being flat?
> >> The small crack isn't likely to be any worse than the joint around a
> >> repair.
>
> >The bump looks to be very brittle but your suggestion is worth trying
> >with the insert idea as an alternative if/when I find it won't shrink
> >back down.
>
> Umm...
>
> Wikipedia has Formica as paper melamine laminate. I don't know how that
> would respond to further heating.
>
> Someone else may know.
>
> *Post formed* worktops were popular when we married so you must be able
> to bend the stuff. The question is, how?

erm... aren't all the readily available worktops post formed at least
on one edge (front)??

loads more notes here:-
http://www.formica.co.uk/publish/site/eu/uk/en/home/technical/Fabrication/edge_detail/postforming.EUParsys.0003.DownloadFile.File.tmp/tec042.pdf

Jim K

[S Viemeister]

On 12/8/2011 10:30 AM, Terry Fields wrote:
>
> F wrote:
>
>> I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
>> and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
>> a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
>> worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.
>>
>> Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
>> have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...
>>
>> Management has stayed calm. So far.
>

> Not a repair, but we use 'heatproof' glass worktop protectors; got
> them from Tesco. Convince SWMBO that these are just what are needed,
> then cover up the damage with one.
>

Or a nice big granite tile.

[Mr Pounder]

"F" <news@nowhere> wrote in message
news:NK6dnWBkL6uSG33T...@brightview.co.uk...

You are doomed.
Is there a Travelodge in your area?
>
>
>

[Nightjar]

Not if you do the job properly and don't leave any unsealed cracks.

Colin Bignell

[Nightjar]

On 08/12/2011 08:46, Brian Gaff wrote:
> Have you ever tried to do that sort of thing without chipping formica?.

Yes, although the tool was brand new and very sharp.

> The
> other problem is that if its actually laminate on some board or other, you
> get to find exactly where the glue did not work very well.....

<grin>

Colin Bignell

[John Miller]

"F" wrote in message
news:mqSdnVxTq4K5XkLT...@brightview.co.uk...

I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...

Management has stayed calm. So far.

--
F

-------------------------------------------------------------

Not exactly DIY but there are a lot of companies who repair this kind of
damage at a price - such as
http://www.plastic-surgeon.co.uk/Services/WoodsAndVeneers/WorktopRepair.aspx

John M

[Nightjar]

On 07/12/2011 23:07, F wrote:
> On 07/12/2011 22:30 The Other Mike wrote:
>
>> Router, set to the thickness of the formica. Remove damaged section.
>>
>> Glue in patch taken from spare bit of worktop kept for just such
>> eventuality.
>
> Erm, there is no spare bit of worktop.
>
>> Alternatively, rout a bit deeper and over a larger area and fit a
>> marble insert that doesn't mind hot pans being rested on it.
>

> That, and Colin's stainless steel bars idea, sounds interesting. I had
> originally thought of letting a stainless steel panel into the top but
> was concerned about heat transfer into the worktop making things worse.

The pan only makes contact with each rod along a fairly small line, at
most, (and that is assuming you get them all level and at an equal
depth) so the rate of heat transfer is going to be fairly small. You
could, of course, use larger rods that will take longer to heat.

> The three options also concern me when it comes to sealing them against
> water sloshing around on them. Management likes to get things wet when
> she's cleaning...

No more of a problem than any other hole, such as a sink, or the joint
between worktop and wall. Silicone mastic should work perfectly well.

Colin Bignell

[82045]

At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These
were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be
possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if
you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in
the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self
adhesive version.

[F]

On 09/12/2011 09:35 82045 wrote:

> At one time some of the sheds sold a product called "Hot Rods". These
> were intended to be epoxied onto the laminate surface. Would it not be
> possible to carefully grind the blister off (with an angle grinder, if
> you must, or better still a Dremel type machine) and epoxy them on in
> the regular fashion? I think they are also available as a self
> adhesive version.

I'll have a look for some. Hopefully, their diameter is greater than
that of the bubble.

I like the idea of a marble or granite insert, but if I can get a fix
without making any more holes in the surface then that would be preferable.

--
F

[charles]

In article <44adneOwKdGSR3zT...@brightview.co.uk>,

to protect our Village Hall kitchen worktop from further damage - after a
very hot kettle had be put on it, I found a stainless steel plate (rolled
at the front edge) which I placed over the damaged area. It's a few years
ago, but I think I used Evostik to hold it in place.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.16

[Weatherlawyer]

On Dec 8, 10:44 pm, Nightjar <c...@insert.my.surname.here.me.uk>

IOW:
Will be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks

[Nightjar]

On 09/12/2011 12:22, Weatherlawyer wrote:
...

> IOW:
> Will be good in the short term, but water getting in all those cracks
> will prove a bad idea.

Then don't do it on the Isle of Wight, or is IOW supposed to mean
something else?

Colin Bignell

[Ghostrecon]

presumably 'in other words'
--
(º•.¸(¨*•.¸ ¸.•*¨)¸.•º)
<.•°•. Nik .•°•.>
(¸.•º(¸.•¨* *¨•.¸)º•.¸)

[RobertL]

On Dec 7, 7:49 pm, F <news@nowhere> wrote:
> I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
> and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
> a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
> worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.

i did exactly this once but burned a much bigger area. We 'fixed' it
by getting a nice rectangle of fancy stainess steel and gluing it over
the damage. This then looked like a special place designed to put
hot pans.

Robert

[The Medway Handyman]

"If you can't hide it, paint it red"

Nice one!


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[F]

On 09/12/2011 18:25 The Medway Handyman wrote:

> "If you can't hide it, paint it red"

Or turn it into an 'architectural feature'.

--
F

[F]

On 09/12/2011 15:58 RobertL wrote:

> i did exactly this once but burned a much bigger area. We 'fixed' it
> by getting a nice rectangle of fancy stainess steel and gluing it over
> the damage. This then looked like a special place designed to put
> hot pans.

That was my first reaction, but I'm concerned that it would conduct heat
straight through to the worktop and raise more bubbles if I/we repeat
the hot griddle pan trick...

--
F

[F]

On 07/12/2011 19:49 F wrote:

> I've put a hot griddle pan (yes, I know!) down on the kitchen worktop
> and now have a bubble in the surface around 10mm long and 5mm wide. It's
> a couple of mm high and has a fine crack across the top of it. The
> worktop is a one of Formica's finest textured in black and grey.
>

> Anyone able to advise on a repair other than 'replace it all'. I don't
> have an angle grinder, but I do have a couple of cans of WD40...
>
> Management has stayed calm. So far.

Management is still calm and considering a complete replacement.

In granite. 'Medium grey', whatever that may be.

Anyone any thoughts? Can it stain? Any particular 'type' to avoid or to
go for? I've no relevant experience...

--
F

[The Natural Philosopher]

you pay through the nose for granite - probably about 5 times what
laminated chip costs, but the result is worth it.

Its been through a volcano already. hot pans wont touch it.Frankly that
or stainless steel are the two best alternatives.

Make up a paper template and go to a monumental mason (grave stones) and
get it cut to size.

[F]

Hadn't thought of the stone mason option: thanks!

There's three pieces: a short 1M breakfast bar, another 0.6M rectangle
and, the largest, an L-shape, around 3M x 2.5M on the outside of the L
with cut-outs for the sink and gas hob in the longer leg. Presumably,
the latter comes in two sections with a diagonal join across the corner
of the L? Or a bishops mitre?

How do I seal the joint between them and make sure they don't move apart?

--
F

[The Natural Philosopher]

well granite doesn't MOVE as such..

I suppose a black epoxy is about where its at for the gap.

[F]

I assumed the weight would hold it in place but wondered if it might
creep over time.

--
F

[The Natural Philosopher]

car body filler will nail it down - or silicone or anything.
Gap filling is less easy.

[Martin Brown]

I did notice that ALDI had black granite pan rests on sale yesterday.

As an interim quick fix you might want to get one.

Regards,
Martin Brown

[ss]

When we got a new kitchen fitted a few years back after just a couple of
weeks son put a hot pan on it and blistered a small patch no bigger than
say square inch. Once my temper calmed I took time to smooth with wet &
dry and then used a black marker pen, maybe had to redo a couple of
times a year (pen) lasted 10 years until we sold the house.
You may need to use a couple of different coloured markers say black and
gray to give a better effect.
The problem with damage like this is you can camouflage quite well and
hide it from the casual onlooker but you still know its there.
Not once did anyone notice it on my worktop in 10 years but every
morning I made a coffee my eye was drawn to it. F...ing son :-)

[F]

On 01/01/2012 15:58 ss wrote:

> When we got a new kitchen fitted a few years back after just a couple of
> weeks son put a hot pan on it and blistered a small patch no bigger than
> say square inch. Once my temper calmed I took time to smooth with wet &

> dry...

How did you deal with the hole that was left when you removed the
blistered surface?

--
F

[ss]

From memory I dont recall filling it with anything as I am sure the
blister was only slightly raised and fine sanding pretty much levelled
it. Apparently he let a pot boil dry, picked it up to put under tap and
the handle was roasting hot so put it on the worktop til he grabbed a
towel to lift it, so it was only on the work surface a few seconds (I
think) enough to damage it but maybe not as much if left longer.

[maryafl...@gmail.com]

I had the same problem with burn on black worktop. I peeked off the brittle part an painted a few coats of black nail varnish and used a small but of white nail varnush to give it a mottled look like the worktop. Hardly visible.

[sintv]

On Wednesday, 23 January 2019 11:22:22 UTC, maryafl...@gmail.com wrote:
> I had the same problem with burn on black worktop. I peeked off the brittle part an painted a few coats of black nail varnish and used a small but of white nail varnush to give it a mottled look like the worktop. Hardly visible.

Doubt if hes still interested after 7 years