Crimping 2.5mm twin and earth
Jon Fox
so i will plan on extending the two 2.5mm twin & earth cables that run
to it (it's on a ring main and the existing cables are buried in the
wall). I plan on crimping extra lengths of 2.5mm twin & earth onto the
ends of the existing cables. I've decided on crimping rather than
junction boxes because the regs state that inaccessible buried joins
(which this will be once plastered over) should be soldered or joined
"mechanically". What i want to check is if this is the correct
connector to use:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashB.html
Although that is already insulated, i was also thinking of using some
heat-shrink sleeving - can anybody tell me which out of these is the
right one to use for 2.5mm twin and earth please?
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Sleeving_2/index.html
Thanks in advance, Jon.
BigWallop
"Jon Fox" <aw114...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8c7bd1e1.03111...@posting.google.com...
Why not leave the existing socket where it is and tap a spur off it to the
new socket position with a single 2.5mm csa' cable. Lot's simpler.
---
http://www.basecuritysystems.no-ip.com
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.541 / Virus Database: 335 - Release Date: 14/11/03
Mike Harrison
>I am planning to move a double socket in our utility room, and to do
>so i will plan on extending the two 2.5mm twin & earth cables that run
>to it (it's on a ring main and the existing cables are buried in the
>wall). I plan on crimping extra lengths of 2.5mm twin & earth onto the
>ends of the existing cables. I've decided on crimping rather than
>junction boxes because the regs state that inaccessible buried joins
>(which this will be once plastered over) should be soldered or joined
>"mechanically". What i want to check is if this is the correct
>connector to use:
>
>http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashB.html
Note that you MUST use a proper ratchet type crimp tool (Like the DV DHCR15 shown on the above
page) to get a reliable join with these - the cheap 'plier' types (DR210) will not make a reliable
joint.
Jon Fox
> Why not leave the existing socket where it is and tap a spur off it to the
> new socket position with a single 2.5mm csa' cable. Lot's simpler.
Sorry, i forgot to mention that a sink is being installed directly
under the existing socket, hence it's removal (SWMBO would not be
happy with a blanking plate!).
Cheers, Jon.
John Stumbles
> so i will plan on extending the two 2.5mm twin & earth cables that run
> to it (it's on a ring main and the existing cables are buried in the
> wall). I plan on crimping extra lengths of 2.5mm twin & earth onto the
> ends of the existing cables. I've decided on crimping rather than
> junction boxes because the regs state that inaccessible buried joins
> (which this will be once plastered over) should be soldered or joined
> "mechanically". What i want to check is if this is the correct
> connector to use:
>
> http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CTBUTTslashB.html
I've used those for 2.5T&E. Doesn't make them 'correct' though :-)
> Although that is already insulated, i was also thinking of using some
> heat-shrink sleeving - can anybody tell me which out of these is the
> right one to use for 2.5mm twin and earth please?
>
>
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Sleeving_2/in
dex.html
I wrap the whole cable around the join with self-amalgamating tape.
--
John Stumbles
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-|-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
-+
The most dangerous component in a car is the nut that holds the steering
wheel
Jon Fox
>
> Note that you MUST use a proper ratchet type crimp tool (Like the DV DHCR15
> shown on the above page) to get a reliable join with these - the
> cheap 'plier' types (DR210) will not make a reliable joint.
Thanks a lot for the advice. I have been wondering about that because
i do have a cheapy plier type (for some car work i once did), but for
mains work that's going to buried in the wall for years i thought the
ratchet jobbies would be safer! I'll be ordering a pair (couldn't find
them in B&Q, Homebase, Focus or Wickes tonight!).
Cheers, Jon.
James Hart
Mystical places DIY stores, I called in one tonight to pick up a draught
excluder, could I heck as find one anywhere so I skulked off into the dark
corner by the warehouse entrance and asked one of the staff. "Did you look
in the plumbing section?" was his answer, oddly enough I hadn't but that's
where they are. Stupid me for thinking they'd be with the door furniture.
--
James...
http://www.jameshart.co.uk/
John Stumbles
A few months ago our (Reading) B&Q had a kit of ratchet crimp tool + a
selection of crimps in an assorter-type box for soemthing like £20. IIRC it
was shortly after I'd bought a tool from CPC (which doesn't fit in the
assorter box I keep my crimps in :-()
--
John Stumbles
-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-|-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
-+
Pessimists are never disappointed
John
halogen lights and it made a fine job. Needs a fair bit of muscle, though.
Not sure I'd really be happy crimping extensions onto a ring cct and burying
in plasterwork - but it's more of a gut feel than engineering consideration.
Is that crimp butt connector designed for multi-strand or single conductor,
I wonder?
Chris Oates
"John" <john_w_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bpeapn$1o1n5g$1...@ID-109967.news.uni-berlin.de...
solid wire with a ratchet crimper
but I'm not aware of any prohibition
bare barrel crimps are however extremely common
in underground jointing but the crimper, by it's size,
is enough to convince you that the joint will be permanent
(plus it's usually strain relieved with epoxy)
For perspective think of all the countries that allow the use of
wire nuts
David Hearn
"John Stumbles" <postmaster@[127.0.0.1]> wrote in message
news:6uxub.2685$MP5....@newsfep4-glfd.server.ntli.net...
> "Jon Fox" <aw114...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:8c7bd1e1.03111...@posting.google.com...
> > Mike Harrison <mi...@whitewing.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:<ecgkrv0p8aenft8km...@4ax.com>...
> > >
> > > Note that you MUST use a proper ratchet type crimp tool (Like the DV
> DHCR15
> > > shown on the above page) to get a reliable join with these - the
> > > cheap 'plier' types (DR210) will not make a reliable joint.
> >
> > Thanks a lot for the advice. I have been wondering about that because
> > i do have a cheapy plier type (for some car work i once did), but for
> > mains work that's going to buried in the wall for years i thought the
> > ratchet jobbies would be safer! I'll be ordering a pair (couldn't find
> > them in B&Q, Homebase, Focus or Wickes tonight!).
>
> A few months ago our (Reading) B&Q had a kit of ratchet crimp tool + a
> selection of crimps in an assorter-type box for soemthing like £20. IIRC
it
> was shortly after I'd bought a tool from CPC (which doesn't fit in the
> assorter box I keep my crimps in :-()
I saw something similar in our local B&Q (Guildford) - however when I looked
closely, it said something like "for automobile use only"...
D
BigWallop
Then you should still try and keep your connections inside a box of some
sort (a single surface box with a blanking plate), and place the whole thing
inside the wall cavity. You can still take a single PVC to the new socket
position from the two ring cables inside the box. This is a lot safer than
leaving open connections lying about inside the wall.
dmc
David Hearn <da...@NoSpamSwampieSpammer.Org.Uk> wrote:
>I saw something similar in our local B&Q (Guildford) - however when I looked
>closely, it said something like "for automobile use only"...
I think I've asked this before but....
Is there a difference in the crimps used on cars and the crimps used for
mains wiring? I ask because my dad was a mechanic until a couple of years
ago and has stacks of crimps and a whole range of snap-on crimpers (all
rachet type) that he used on cars - are these suitable for mains? (I guess
so assuming they are the correct size...)
Darren
Chippy
> What i want to check is if this is the correct
> connector to use:
Though we have them lying around, I've never used crimp connectors.
A couple of questions:
Does one use the same connector for the smaller diameter earth
conductor in T&E?
I notice that the conductors of 2.5mm T&E will fit into red
connectors, designed for 1.5mm. Is there any good reason not to use
this combination?
Jon Fox
>
> Then you should still try and keep your connections inside a box of some
> sort (a single surface box with a blanking plate), and place the whole thing
> inside the wall cavity. You can still take a single PVC to the new socket
> position from the two ring cables inside the box. This is a lot safer than
> leaving open connections lying about inside the wall.
Thanks. I'm not sure that would be correct as far as the regulations
are concerned though. As i mentioned, they state that innaccessible
joins must be soldered or mechanical, which rules out junction boxes.
What you suggest is effectively a junction box :(
Cheers, Jon.
BigWallop
NO. Place the crimped terminals inside a suitable box to protect them as
much as possible, is what I meant.
Jon Fox
>
> NO. Place the crimped terminals inside a suitable box to protect them as
> much as possible, is what I meant.
Oh i see, thanks.
Jon.
Andrew Gabriel
aw114...@yahoo.co.uk (Jon Fox) writes:
> Thanks. I'm not sure that would be correct as far as the regulations
> are concerned though. As i mentioned, they state that innaccessible
> joins must be soldered or mechanical, which rules out junction boxes.
> What you suggest is effectively a junction box :(
Actually, one option is to use a junction box with screw terminals
as normal, and then to solder the connections to the terminals too.
Only do this if you are already skilled at soldering though. If you
are unskilled at both soldering and crimping, I would suggest you
use crimps with a good ratchet crimper which is more likely to give
a good join in unskilled hands.
--
Andrew Gabriel
Dave Plowman
dmc <D.M.C...@ukc.ac.uk> wrote:
> Is there a difference in the crimps used on cars and the crimps used for
> mains wiring?
If they're the red yellow and blue sort, I don't think so, but they do
tend to vary in apparent quality between makes.
FWIW, I think they look the pants in car wiring, since proper terminals
are available.
--
*Don't worry; it only seems kinky the first time.*
Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn