painting plywood on walls of bathroom

[clive....@gmail.com]

Hi

My bathroom walls are going to be finished with either tiles on marine ply or painted plaster on "Green" plasterboard. Now there is a tricky space behind the towel rail that protrudes too far. I can't cut the brackets supporting the rail much because the towel won't fit behind. My idea is to replace the 2cm ply behind the rad with 1cm thick ply and paint it a similar colour to the tiles. Without the tiles I will save 2cm thickness of wall. Where the towel rail is located in the bathroom, this thickness is crucial.

I have a few descriptions online that painted ply has been used successfully on kitchen floors. Now if I prime, undercoat twice, paint, then seal twice with matt polyurethane varnish (I am thinking of giving the treatment you would to the hull of a wooden boat !) will mean the rad will receed a vital 2cm and mostof the painted wall will be hidden behind the towel rad anyway.

Could this work? (please say yes). Better than that, has anyone experience of painted plywood floors in kitchens or bathrooms?

Thanks

Clive

[The Natural Philosopher]

Done a lot of painted mdf. Looks just like plaster.

Ply? Normally skim it or tile it. But if you use acrylic primer on it
and rub it down to get rid of the grain it should take emulsion ok


--
Karl Marx said religion is the opium of the people.
But Marxism is the crack cocaine.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

you presumably know that the type of ply you get is critical in a wet location.


NT

[Chris French]

clive....@gmail.com Wrote in message:

No, but I don't see an issue here, bathrooms normally have painted
wooden doors, often cupboard doors as well and they do fine. So I
'd just paint as that.

I might consider MDF, as that has a nice smooth surface. Unless
it's likely to get really wet on the edge itcwill be fine. I had
MDF cupboard doors and cladding on a cupboard under a basin
painted with Dulux Satinwood, in the 5 or so years we were still
there it was fine

--
--
Chris French

[newshound]

Behind the rad doesn't sound like a wet location to me. I would say that
prime, undercoat, and gloss would be fine. No need for polyurethane. I'd
have thought emulsion would last pretty well too.

[Capitol]

I'd expect some movement with humidity change.

[jim]

tabb...@gmail.com Wrote in message:

You missed the "....." to finish off your tease nige... Shurely
not the vastly expensive "marine ply" requirement? Oh deary
me

How will "behind a wall mounted towel radiator" ever count as a
"wet location"?

Is it alarmism or trolling with these bs teasey c'mon half cocked
answers you appear to specialise in?

--
Jim K


----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

[Martin Bonner]

On Tuesday, 12 April 2016 01:05:39 UTC+2, jim wrote:
> tabb...@gmail.com Wrote in message:
> > On Monday, 11 April 2016 20:49:27 UTC+1, clive....@gmail.com wrote:
> >> Hi
> >>
> >> My bathroom walls are going to be finished with either tiles on marine ply or painted plaster on "Green" plasterboard. Now there is a tricky space behind the towel rail that protrudes too far. I can't cut the brackets supporting the rail much because the towel won't fit behind. My idea is to replace the 2cm ply behind the rad with 1cm thick ply and paint it a similar colour to the tiles. Without the tiles I will save 2cm thickness of wall. Where the towel rail is located in the bathroom, this thickness is crucial.
> >>
> >> I have a few descriptions online that painted ply has been used successfully on kitchen floors. Now if I prime, undercoat twice, paint, then seal twice with matt polyurethane varnish (I am thinking of giving the treatment you would to the hull of a wooden boat !) will mean the rad will receed a vital 2cm and mostof the painted wall will be hidden behind the towel rad anyway.
> >>
> >> Could this work? (please say yes). Better than that, has anyone experience of painted plywood floors in kitchens or bathrooms?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Clive
> >
> > you presumably know that the type of ply you get is critical in a wet location.
>

> You missed the "....." to finish off your teasing... Surely

> not the vastly expensive "marine ply" requirement?

WBP will be fine.

> How will "behind a wall mounted towel radiator" ever count as a
> "wet location"?

Walls have (at least in my experience) a habit of coming down to the floor.
Bathroom floors quite often get water on them (not least when they are
cleaned). It's the edge of the plywood where it meets the floor that
means I would want WBP ply (and wouldn't use MDF).

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, 12 April 2016 10:05:23 UTC+1, Martin Bonner wrote:
> On Tuesday, 12 April 2016 01:05:39 UTC+2, jim wrote:

> > tabbypurr Wrote in message:

My bathroom routinely gets condensation on the walls during showering. I can't speak for Jim's or the OP's.

So I'd use WBP. No-one uses marine ply for diy.
I've found that not all WBP on sale actually is WBP, it's probably worth testing before installing.


NT

[Chris French]

tabb...@gmail.com Wrote in message:

Ply is now produced to one of 3 grades in terms of resistance to
moisture weather. Governed by EN something or other.
:

http://www.hanson-plywood.co.uk/pages/standards.




--
--
Chris French

[The Natural Philosopher]

a little. Much less than with wood. about 0.1% max


--
If you tell a lie big enough and keep repeating it, people will
eventually come to believe it. The lie can be maintained only for such
time as the State can shield the people from the political, economic
and/or military consequences of the lie. It thus becomes vitally
important for the State to use all of its powers to repress dissent, for
the truth is the mortal enemy of the lie, and thus by extension, the
truth is the greatest enemy of the State.

Joseph Goebbels

[jim]

Martin Bonner <martin...@yahoo.co.uk> Wrote in message:

Eh?
All my walls
and the vast majority of every wall I've ever worked
on have skirting boards to cover the er gap between the wall and
floor, is your house so very different then?

You really have absorbent plasterboard/plaster/ply? right down to
the floor surface? Nah dont think so.

WBP ply? Seems overkill given that it's going to be painted so
many times and be fixed behind a heat source but if the OP can
get it for similar price why not.

(Can't bring myself to imagine quite how steamy Nige's showers get
nor how much mould grows on all that condensate running down the
walls!)

[Capitol]

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 11/04/16 23:03, Capitol wrote:
>> clive....@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi
>>>
>>> My bathroom walls are going to be finished with either tiles on marine
>>> ply or painted plaster on "Green" plasterboard. Now there is a tricky
>>> space behind the towel rail that protrudes too far. I can't cut the
>>> brackets supporting the rail much because the towel won't fit behind.
>>> My idea is to replace the 2cm ply behind the rad with 1cm thick ply
>>> and paint it a similar colour to the tiles. Without the tiles I will
>>> save 2cm thickness of wall. Where the towel rail is located in the
>>> bathroom, this thickness is crucial.
>>>
>>> I have a few descriptions online that painted ply has been used
>>> successfully on kitchen floors. Now if I prime, undercoat twice,
>>> paint, then seal twice with matt polyurethane varnish (I am thinking
>>> of giving the treatment you would to the hull of a wooden boat !) will
>>> mean the rad will receed a vital 2cm and mostof the painted wall will
>>> be hidden behind the towel rad anyway.
>>>
>>> Could this work? (please say yes). Better than that, has anyone
>>> experience of painted plywood floors in kitchens or bathrooms?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Clive
>>
>> I'd expect some movement with humidity change.
>
> a little. Much less than with wood. about 0.1% max
>
>

My roof ply bent.

[jim]

Capitol <sp...@whereva.uk> Wrote in message:

Yoda speaking like are you?

[Vir Campestris]

> clive....@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I have a few descriptions online that painted ply has been used
> successfully on kitchen floors. Now if I prime, undercoat twice,
> paint, then seal twice with matt polyurethane varnish (I am thinking
> of giving the treatment you would to the hull of a wooden boat !)

These days wooden boats are given an epoxy coating, and the varnishes
are two pot. This may be overkill for you.

Andy

[Capitol]

Bending does not resemble shrinkage.