Extending a hose pipe under the house
Jason
with a little twist.
I have an outside tap in the back yard, but no easy way to run the hose pipe
around the front of the house. What I would like to do is run a pipe under the
house, with a Hoselock connection at each end, and link that up to the tap
whenever I need it.
Now, ground floor of the house sits about three feed off ground level outside,
so I can run a pipe under the ground floor no problem, and the pipe can come out
the wall above ground level at each end (front and back) and still all below the
DPC.
The idea of just linking it up when I need it means that I don't have to worry
about pipes under the floor at mains pressure during the Winter, and subject to
potential leaks.
How I think it would look would be a wall tap one the house wall at front and
back. To run water through I just click in a short length of hose with Hoselock
connections in the back yard between the tap and the water outlet.
Plumbing-wise, I avoid any joints or connections inside the house, and avoid any
plumbing that I would not be so comfortable doing.
So the question (assuming this is not a really silly idea) is: what kind of pipe
would I run between the front and the back of the house under the floor? It will
not be at mains pressure 99% of the time (only when it is being used) so does
not need to be heavy duty and presumably expensive. However, I do want something
a bit more reliable than a hose-pipe that could split. The length would be about
50 foot.
Hope that makes sense!
-- Jason
Andrew Mawson
"Jason" <jason...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:a4KYn.130972$tH4.31469@hurricane...
Run it in blue mdpe and use mdpe -> 3/4 BSP converters each end to
make it Hozelock compatible. If you can crawl in the space I'd
personally insulate the MDPE.
Even MDPE is not entirely vermin proof, but will stand freezing unlike
garden hose which frequently splits when frozen.
AWEM
Roger Mills
Have a look at MDPE
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83620/Plumbing/Water-Pipe-and-Fittings/MDPE-Blue-Pipe-20mm-x-50m
or Speedfit BPEX
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11027/Plumbing/Push-Fit-Fittings/JG-Speedfit-BPEX-Barrier-Coil-Pipe-25m-x-15mm
Either way, assuming that you can get into the space under the floor,
support the pipe with clips fixed to joists at regular intervals.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Jason
> On 06/07/2010 18:53, Jason wrote:
>>
>> Hope that makes sense!
>>
>> -- Jason
>
> Have a look at MDPE
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83620/Plumbing/Water-Pipe-and-Fittings/MDPE-Blue-Pipe-20mm-x-50m
>
>
> or Speedfit BPEX
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11027/Plumbing/Push-Fit-Fittings/JG-Speedfit-BPEX-Barrier-Coil-Pipe-25m-x-15mm
>
>
> Either way, assuming that you can get into the space under the floor,
> support the pipe with clips fixed to joists at regular intervals.
Cool - that looks just the business, and at a price I was hoping for. Thanks
(and you too, Andrew).
The pipe can be clipped or it could just be laid across the ground - I have good
access. What would happen if did not use clips? Is it more likely to freeze and
get damaged?
-- JJ
Roger Mills
>
> The pipe can be clipped or it could just be laid across the ground - I have good
> access. What would happen if did not use clips? Is it more likely to freeze and
> get damaged?
>
> -- JJ
If not clipped, it will almost certainly retain some water - which could
freeze. It comes in a coil, and so needs constraining in same way to
keep it straight(ish). Left to its own devices, it will try to coil up
again.
If possible, I would suggest clipping it in such a way that the highest
point is in the middle, sloping down to each end. It should then be easy
to ensure that all water drains out at the beginning of each winter.
Andrew Mawson
"Roger Mills" <watt....@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:89hlkh...@mid.individual.net...
A tip: pass hot water through it after you have uncoiled it, and
stretch it a bit - it take the wiggles out to a certain extent
AWEM
fred
<jason...@blueyonder.co.uk> writes
into a coil when let go, HEP2O non barrier pipe is less so:
http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/156.asp item 14979
Even so I would run a line first and pull the pipe through rather than
trying to thread the pipe itself.
I'd be inclined to leave the pipe on the dirt, after all it is really a
hose rather than a pipe, not continuously exposed to mains pressure and
not subject to passing traffic that might damage it.
In cold weather, make sure everything is disconnected from the hozelok
fittings and if there is any freezing the open ends should relieve any
pressure. Plas pipes seem to cope well with any girth expansion on
freezing.
BES do 15mm to 3/4" bsp brass male compression fittings that will
directly take a plastic hozelok threaded adapter. Don't forget the pipe
inserts for use with compression fittings.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks
Spamlet
Mentioned before, but I simply ran some of the soft type hose up the back of
the downpipes and along in the gutters round to the other side of the house.
Works fine, mostly hidden, and doesn't split because gravity empties it for
you. Nice 'Y' connector on the tap
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/90049/Landscaping-Outdoor/Watering-Irrigation/Hoses-Fittings/Plastic-Fittings/BSP-Dual-Tap-Connector.
Hose can also be flipped out of the gutter when I want to wash the car, and
flipped back in afterwards (house is on a slope).
S
Jason
> ...
>>
> Both MDPE & Speedfit coiled pipe are terrible for wanting to spring back
> into a coil when let go, HEP2O non barrier pipe is less so:
> http://www.bes.ltd.uk/products/156.asp item 14979
> Even so I would run a line first and pull the pipe through rather than
> trying to thread the pipe itself.
>
> I'd be inclined to leave the pipe on the dirt, after all it is really a
> hose rather than a pipe, not continuously exposed to mains pressure and
> not subject to passing traffic that might damage it.
>
> In cold weather, make sure everything is disconnected from the hozelok
> fittings and if there is any freezing the open ends should relieve any
> pressure. Plas pipes seem to cope well with any girth expansion on
> freezing.
>
> BES do 15mm to 3/4" bsp brass male compression fittings that will
> directly take a plastic hozelok threaded adapter. Don't forget the pipe
> inserts for use with compression fittings.
Strangely enough, a neighbour four doors up did this *exact* same job this
weekend. He used blue pipe from Wickes, has run it out of the wall at the front
and back, and extended it up the wall using copper pipe to a tap at each end. He
is also using a small length of hookup pipe to link the tap at the back to the
mains outlet using Hoselock fittings when needed. It is strange how great minds
think alike ;-)
He only used half of the 25m of piping he bought, so I there is another half
going free, plus I have a working system I can see :-)
-- Jason
Jason
>
> ...
> A tip: pass hot water through it after you have uncoiled it, and
> stretch it a bit - it take the wiggles out to a certain extent
>
> AWEM
Good idea. Presumably I would do this after the pipe has been "laid" under the
floor (I use that term lightly because I expect the pipe will tell *me* where it
is going to go, rather than go where it is told - until the hot water trick).
-- Jason
Jason
> On 06/07/2010 20:20, Jason wrote:
>
>>
>> The pipe can be clipped or it could just be laid across the ground - I
>> have good
>> access. What would happen if did not use clips? Is it more likely to
>> freeze and
>> get damaged?
>>
>> -- JJ
>
> If not clipped, it will almost certainly retain some water - which could
> freeze. It comes in a coil, and so needs constraining in same way to
> keep it straight(ish). Left to its own devices, it will try to coil up
> again.
>
> If possible, I would suggest clipping it in such a way that the highest
> point is in the middle, sloping down to each end. It should then be easy
> to ensure that all water drains out at the beginning of each winter.
I can crawl around under the floor where the pipe is going to go, so have access
to the underside of the ground floor joists which would be easy to fix the clips to.
I don't think it gets cold enough to freeze under there at the moment, but that
could be considered a floor insulation problem that I also need to fix at some
point.
-- Jason
Man at B&Q
Arrange it so the end at the rear of the house is lower than at the
front. When you disconnect it open the tap at the front, and the water
will drain out.
Use normal hose, it will be empty when not in use (no frost damage)
and under the house (no UV damage from sunlight) so should last for
years.
MBQ