I have a boulter camray quartet oil fired boiler, as of this morning it
does not seem to be firing up. There is plenty of oil in the tank and I
cannot find the manual to see if that had any info.
There is a 'lockout' light that is on but I can't say if that was normally
on or not.
Anyone any tips or suggestions?
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Hm, that did something but not any good. It did allow the flame to start
but it just cut out again very quickly and a bit of smoke coming out of
the unit, looks like some part of the fan unit or something that looks
like one has gone bad.
Any more comments/ideas?
D - FAULT-FINDING
D/1. Immediately the burner stops for any abnormal reason, the red lamp (2)
on the burner casing will light, unless there has been a failure in the
electric power supply to the burner, due to the burning out of either a fuse
or the red lamp.
D/2. When the red lamp is shining, the controls of the burner are at
“lock-out”, and can remain so without any danger. The burner can only be
restarted manually by pressing the re-set button (2) in which the red lamp
is incorporated.
D/3. Having waited for at least 5 minutes with the burner at “lock-out”, the
user should firmly press the re-set button(2) and then pay careful attention
to what happens. He should try to single out which of the faults listed
below is present.
D/4. The burner starts, flame is established within the boiler and the
burner does not return to “lock-out”: Obviously the cause of failure was
only temporary, such as a sudden change in voltage, and no further action is
required.
D/5. The burner starts, flame is established within the boiler, but the
burner returns to “lock—out”:
— polish the front surface of the photo cell (1) with a dry cloth; — make
sure that the boiler tubes or flue ways are not blocked by soot, and arrange
for them to be cleaned, should this be the case;
— repeat the action shown at D/3.
D/6. The burner starts, but no flame is established within the boiler, and
the burner returns to “lock-out”: Make sure that atomized oil is being
delivered by the nozzle (6)
Should no fuel be sprayed out:-. turn off the main switch; — take off the
locking nut (3), move the burner backwards on its hinge (5) away from the
frontplate, if there is no hinge remove the burner from the boiler and,
after the maintenance operations, remount it onto the boiler in the way
illustrated on figure 1. — (undo the way illustrated on figure 1) — undo the
nozzle (6) from its holder, using a nozzle spanner (size 16
box-spanner); —unscrew the nozzle filter(8); — take out the inner part (7)
of the nozzle; — carefully wash all parts of the nozzle with Gas Oil; —
never use anything metallic for cleaning the nozzle, as it could be
damaged; — put the burner back into position and tighten the flange
nut(3); —turn on the main switch; — repeat the ac tion shown at D/3.
D/7. Should oil be delivered correctly by the nozzle, make sure that the
fault is not caused by deposits built upon the ignition electrodes, in which
case: — turn off the main switch; — take off the locking nut (3), move the
burner backwards on its hinge (5) away from the frontplate, if there is no
hinge remove the burner from the boilerand, after the maintenan ce
operations, remount it onto the boiler in the way illustrated on figure 1.-
remove the blast tube for access to the elec trodes (4); — clean them with a
rag soaked in Gas Oil trying not to alter their setting or reset them as
said at C/4; —restore the burner’s original firing posi tion. — turn on the
main switch; — repeat the action shown at D/3.
D/8. The burner does not start: — make sure that there has not been a power
failure;
— check that no fuse has blown; — check that neither the room thermostat nor
the boiler thermostat have reached their preset operating temperature.
I've plenty of experience fixing boulter (Reillo) burners !
Is the fan motor turning freely ? Even if the burner is not lighting the motor
will usually turn for a short period. They can seize after a number of years
service and require replacement. Symptoms - noisy when running or seized.
Oil pump - this won't usually cause the burner to fail but look out for telltale
signs of oil leakage from around the pump. Its usually mounted on the opposite
send of the motor to the fan. Oil leakage will also remove lubricant from the
motor bearings causing these to fail.
HT transformer. Try and check if you are getting a spark accross the electrodes
when the burner is starting up. If not the transformer, control box, HT
lead/electrodes may be faulty.
Nozzle. These can get clogged or dirty giving a poor spray pattern. Clean the
nozzle and or replace if suspect.
Control box. These can fail or go out of adjustment giving starting problems.
Photoresistor. As mentioned by the previous poster these can get dirty or fail.
Symptoms will be that a flame is established for a short time followed by burner
lock out.
In this case it seems the problems was two fold, very high winds and me
being an unknowledgable arse.!
Had the boiler checked and all is well, it seems that the funny valve out
side the house which I wondered what it was for is some sort of fire trap
thing, the presumtion is that the boiler overheated perhaps due to the
massive winds that were outside, but whatever the reason the valve tripped
and stopped the oil flow..!
There was enough oil in the system to allow the flame for a few seconds and
so it looked to me that the oil was getting in, the service guy came round,
reset the value, bleed the oil line and lo and behold and working system
again (mind you he did also correct the air mix).
So thanks again but all fixed now unless the valve goes again in which case
I will get it replaced by a more reliable one.
Regards
Raymond (warm again) Stone