Nutool PillarDrill

[Paul Stevenson]

Hi all,

I've just found this group, it seems full of expertise and interesting
stuff.

Anyway, to cut to the chase!

I've a Nutool pillar drill with a duff chuck, does any one have details of
where I might get spares for this machine? The chuck has a morse taper.

Paul

[Dave Plowman]

In article <af4f7j$s15$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>,

Paul Stevenson <pa...@pdsteveo.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> I've a Nutool pillar drill with a duff chuck, does any one have details
> of where I might get spares for this machine? The chuck has a morse
> taper.

IIRC, it's a standard chuck. So phone a few suppliers from your local
yellow pages for the best price.

--
* Confession is good for the soul, but bad for your career.

Dave Plowman dave....@argonet.co.uk London SW 12
RIP Acorn

[Nightjar]

"Paul Stevenson" <pa...@pdsteveo.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:af4f7j$s15$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk...

Chucks with a morse taper fitting are standard parts from any engineers'
suppliers.

Colin Bignell

[Ledswinger]

"Dave Plowman" <dave....@argonet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4b4b199cc3...@argonet.co.uk...

> In article <af4f7j$s15$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>,
> Paul Stevenson <pa...@pdsteveo.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
> > I've a Nutool pillar drill with a duff chuck, does any one have details
> > of where I might get spares for this machine? The chuck has a morse
> > taper.
>
> IIRC, it's a standard chuck. So phone a few suppliers from your local
> yellow pages for the best price.
>

But with NuTool it is probably cheaper to buy a new machine, isn't it?

Led

[Dave Plowman]

In article <o3kR8.4801$mW2.36...@news-text.cableinet.net>,

Ledswinger <Ledsw...@blueyonder.co.uniformkilo> wrote:
> > IIRC, it's a standard chuck. So phone a few suppliers from your local
> > yellow pages for the best price.
> >

> But with NuTool it is probably cheaper to buy a new machine, isn't it?

Heh heh. If it's the small one it's about 40 quid. Would a chuck cost
that? I'd have guessed at a tenner.

--
* Money isn't everything, but it sure keeps the kids in touch.

[NTLWORLD]

Depending what area of the country you are see if there are any Steam or
vintage vehicle shows near you you will have a good afternoon out and find
the exact chuck you need for the Nu Tool drill, On the other hand what is
wrong with the present one ???chuck key

"Paul Stevenson" <pa...@pdsteveo.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:af4f7j$s15$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk...

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.370 / Virus Database: 205 - Release Date: 05/06/02

[Philip Wagstaff]

If it's not too old why not go back to the retailer. The on/off switch went on mine
(old) and I emailed NuTool in Doncaster and they sent me a replacement pronto and
for free. V helpful.

--
Phil Wagstaff
Amiga1200 4.3gHD 32mb 60/50
website:http://web.ukonline.co.uk/philip.wagstaff/index.html

[Paul Stevenson]

Thanks to all for the various suggestions. I think a visit to the local
second hand tool emporium in Milnsbridge might be in order.

The chuck won't allow me to turn the key, one of the three pieces that grip
the drill bits is sticking out more than the others, I can't see an obvious
way to get the chuck apart.

Have to be careful or I will end up paying more for the chuck than I did for
the drill! :-)

Paul

"NTLWORLD" <bob....@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:goqR8.1746$um.1...@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...

[Nick Nelson]

Paul Stevenson wrote:

> Thanks to all for the various suggestions. I think a visit to the local
> second hand tool emporium in Milnsbridge might be in order.

I don't know that one, where abouts is it and is it any good?

> The chuck won't allow me to turn the key, one of the three pieces that grip
> the drill bits is sticking out more than the others, I can't see an obvious
> way to get the chuck apart.

If it's a decent quality Jacobs pattern chuck (and some of the other
comments suggest that might be unlikely) you should be able to drive
the knurled outer sleeve (the part which the teeth of the key engage
with) forward off the main assembly. If its a cheap one, I think they
need to be sawn apart and it's probably not worth the effort of putting
it back together again.

There are a selection of chucks here:

http://www.gandmtools.com/engineering/accessories/spindle%20tooling.html

but you would need a drill chuck arbor as well, unless the chuck you
have has a separate arbor, and you can get it off, and the chuck end
of it is the right size.

Axminster (see FAQ) do some as well.

> Have to be careful or I will end up paying more for the chuck than I did for
> the drill! :-)

Yes, but you would probably end up with a top quality chuck!

Nick

[Paul Stevenson]

"Nick Nelson" <nick....@man.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:3D1715E6...@man.ac.uk...

> Paul Stevenson wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all for the various suggestions. I think a visit to the local
> > second hand tool emporium in Milnsbridge might be in order.
>
>
> I don't know that one, where abouts is it and is it any good?

Around the corner from Kwik Save in the main street. Its an eclectic
collection but there is usually something of interest.

>
> > The chuck won't allow me to turn the key, one of the three pieces that
grip
> > the drill bits is sticking out more than the others, I can't see an
obvious
> > way to get the chuck apart.
>
>
> If it's a decent quality Jacobs pattern chuck (and some of the other
> comments suggest that might be unlikely) you should be able to drive
> the knurled outer sleeve (the part which the teeth of the key engage
> with) forward off the main assembly. If its a cheap one, I think they
> need to be sawn apart and it's probably not worth the effort of putting
> it back together again.

Not a decent quality! Poorest part of the machine!

> There are a selection of chucks here:
>
> http://www.gandmtools.com/engineering/accessories/spindle%20tooling.html

Em interesting.

> but you would need a drill chuck arbor as well, unless the chuck you
> have has a separate arbor, and you can get it off, and the chuck end
> of it is the right size.

The chuck has the tapered hole, I wonder which Morse taper it might be? :-)

> Axminster (see FAQ) do some as well.

Ah yes, I've a catalogue of their's around.

>
> > Have to be careful or I will end up paying more for the chuck than I did
for
> > the drill! :-)
>
> Yes, but you would probably end up with a top quality chuck!

True!

> Nick

Thanks

Paul

[Nick Nelson]

Paul Stevenson wrote:

> The chuck has the tapered hole, I wonder which Morse taper it might be? :-)

If the hole is in the back of the chuck it won't be
a morse taper (http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/morse.html)
but almost certainly 'Jacobs Taper' and probably JT3 or
JT6 (http://www.microangel.com/chucks.html)

Nick

[Philip Wagstaff]

Contact NuTool Doncaster quote your model number and they'll give you all the info
you need.

[e.arc...@gmail.com]

Hi all

I know this thread is ancient but I was wondering if anyone could help.

The kids have been using hubby's pillar drill (nutool dp20) while he's away and have naffered the chuck.

He's going to go mental that they've been messing in the garage if he finds out, so was wondering if anyone had a part number or pic I can take to the local parts place to grab a replacement before he gets back next Thursday (16/10/14).

I'm really not very diy minded so haven't got a clue, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Elizabeth

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <9c037383-c6be-43f1...@googlegroups.com>,

IIRC it fits a taper so is very likely a standard item shared with many
other makes. If you whack it on the side with a wood mallet, it should
fall off. Take it with you to an engineer's supplier for them to match.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[newshound]

Chucks normally unscrew anticlockwise; putting the chuck key in the
chuck and hitting it sharply with a hammer tangentially, anticlockwise,
will sometimes free them, otherwise you may have to look for a way to
prevent the spindle rotating. They are sometimes held on with a screw or
bolt which is accessed via the "drill" hole. You *may* be able to see
with a suitable mirror and torch.

You may well be able to find a near identical replacement, but you may
have to shop around.

Given that you needed to ask, it might be better to own up rather than
risk creating more damage. Nutool are hardly the top end of workshop
tools, it might be simpler to get a better quality replacement.

You don't say how old (or competent) your kids are, it is worth saying
that you can get a very nasty hand injury (or worse) if a drill picks up
when drilling a metal component which is not properly clamped in place
on the table.

[newshound]

On 10/10/2014 14:23, e.arc...@gmail.com wrote:

Here are the spares

http://www.dbkeighley.co.uk/masters/dp16.htm

It's quite a big bugger, as Dave says the chuck is on a Morse Taper
(MT3), so forget everything I said before. The mallet trick might work,
or there might be a slot in the spindle which becomes visible when the
chuck is moved down to the bottom limit (it may be concealed by covers).
Put something like a screwdriver through the slot, let the spindle back
up and the chuck will be released from the taper.

It is definitely not a machine for casual use.

[The Other Mike]

If you replace it then he will notice. Why should you or even he even worry
about the kids messing it up, at least they were presumably trying to do
something practical and useful rather than messing about playing computer games,
or torching the local school.
--

[harryagain]

<e.arc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9c037383-c6be-43f1...@googlegroups.com...

It depends.
Chucks are fitted two ways. The most likely is a "Morse taper"
If you pull the wheel handle down on the right hand side of the drill, you
may find a slot is exposed on the round metal cylinder then exposed that
carries the chuck.
The chuck is rotated until a similar slot lines up with it.
There should be nearby the drill a metal wedge which is pushed into these
slots when aligned and given a whack with a hammer. The chuck will then fall
out so be ready to catch it.
Take it to a toolmerchant for a replacement (prob £40-£50 for a cheapy).

I don't see how they have broken it, this is a very robust bit of equipment.

[harryagain]

<e.arc...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:9c037383-c6be-43f1...@googlegroups.com...

BTW, this is a very dangerous bit of equipment for kids to play with (and
dozey adults)
People have hd very serious accidents and even killed messing about.
Keep them away from it.

[Bill Wright]

e.arc...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I know this thread is ancient but I was wondering if anyone could help.
>
> The kids have been using hubby's pillar drill (nutool dp20) while he's away and have naffered the chuck.

Are you sure it's broken? Could it just be jammed?

Bill

[Nightjar]

On 10/10/2014 15:16, newshound wrote:
> On 10/10/2014 14:23, e.arc...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi all
>>
>> I know this thread is ancient but I was wondering if anyone could help.
>>
>> The kids have been using hubby's pillar drill (nutool dp20) while he's
>> away and have naffered the chuck.
>>
>> He's going to go mental that they've been messing in the garage if he
>> finds out, so was wondering if anyone had a part number or pic I can
>> take to the local parts place to grab a replacement before he gets
>> back next Thursday (16/10/14).
>>
>> I'm really not very diy minded so haven't got a clue, so any help
>> would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>> Elizabeth
>>
> Here are the spares
>
> http://www.dbkeighley.co.uk/masters/dp16.htm
>
> It's quite a big bugger, as Dave says the chuck is on a Morse Taper
> (MT3),

That is the DP20; it is MT2 for the DP16.

> so forget everything I said before. The mallet trick might work,
> or there might be a slot in the spindle which becomes visible when the
> chuck is moved down to the bottom limit (it may be concealed by covers).
> Put something like a screwdriver through the slot, let the spindle back
> up and the chuck will be released from the taper.

I would be surprised. IME, you usually need to insert a wedge into the
slot and whack it quite hard to loosen a Morse taper.

> It is definitely not a machine for casual use.

I am trying to image what they have done that could damage a 16mm chuck.
As somebody else says, he is likely to notice a replacement.


--
Colin Bignell

[de...@askdean.co.uk]

Hi all

I know this thread is ancient but I was wondering if anyone could help.

The kids have been using hubby's pillar drill (nutool dp20) while he's away and have naffered the chuck.

He's going to go mental that they've been messing in the garage if he finds out, so was wondering if anyone had a part number or pic I can take to the local parts place to grab a replacement before he gets back next Thursday (16/10/14).

I'm really not very diy minded so haven't got a clue, so your help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Elizabeth

[newshound]

On 10/10/2014 18:33, Nightjar <"cpb"@ insert my surname here> wrote:
> On 10/10/2014 15:16, newshound wrote:
>> On 10/10/2014 14:23, e.arc...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi all
>>>
>>> I know this thread is ancient but I was wondering if anyone could help.
>>>
>>> The kids have been using hubby's pillar drill (nutool dp20) while he's
>>> away and have naffered the chuck.
>>>
>>> He's going to go mental that they've been messing in the garage if he
>>> finds out, so was wondering if anyone had a part number or pic I can
>>> take to the local parts place to grab a replacement before he gets
>>> back next Thursday (16/10/14).
>>>
>>> I'm really not very diy minded so haven't got a clue, so any help
>>> would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance
>>> Elizabeth
>>>
>> Here are the spares
>>
>> http://www.dbkeighley.co.uk/masters/dp16.htm
>>
>> It's quite a big bugger, as Dave says the chuck is on a Morse Taper
>> (MT3),
>
> That is the DP20; it is MT2 for the DP16.

Yes that link is labelled DP16 but covers the DP20, which is what the OP
mentioned.

>
>> so forget everything I said before. The mallet trick might work,
>> or there might be a slot in the spindle which becomes visible when the
>> chuck is moved down to the bottom limit (it may be concealed by covers).
>> Put something like a screwdriver through the slot, let the spindle back
>> up and the chuck will be released from the taper.
>
> I would be surprised. IME, you usually need to insert a wedge into the
> slot and whack it quite hard to loosen a Morse taper.
>

Don't disagree, but I thought she was unlikely to be able to find the
proper wedge. In my experience "shocking" against a bar will sometimes work.

>> It is definitely not a machine for casual use.
>
> I am trying to image what they have done that could damage a 16mm chuck.
> As somebody else says, he is likely to notice a replacement.
>
>

+1

[The Medway Handyman]

My thoughts exactly. Quite difficult to break a chuck.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Cash]

I have a Nutool pillar drill that required a chuck and chuck key way back in
2009 (sorry, I don't have the number of the drill at the moment) with the
following part numbers.

Chuck - XCH10-2/67 (Tapered chuck)

Chuck Key XCH10 - 2/68

The total cost in 2009 (inc carriage) was £10.11

You need to order by telephone on:

01302 721791 (customer service - and give the Pillar Drill No as it is
probably different to the one I bought from Wickes many years ago)

Hope this is of help?

Cash

[e.arc...@gmail.com]

Hi all

Thanks for the replies, we decided it was to best to fess up as can't really explain a chuck full of epoxy resin where the kids had used the chuck end to mix it up not realising it would turn it into a solid block.

Kids are 13 and 16, so know safe use from school technology classes, it wasn't switched on as the power tools are on a separate breaker in shed that only hubby has keys for when he is out, so no need to worry about them damaging themselves, they broke one of their gadgets and went to borrow the glue and I gave them the key to the door thinking they'd know better than to mess with dad's tools.

I haven't had a chance to look properly yet but thank you all for the links and advice, will pass it along to hubby to deal with when he gets back!

[meow...@care2.com]

If you'd mentioned this at the start someone would most likely have mentioned how to remove the stuff.


NT

[newshound]

+1

[Tim]

How on earth do you mix epoxy with an un-powered drill chuck? You don't mean "chuck key" do you?

Tim

[Clive George]

On 13/10/2014 17:09, Tim wrote:
> How on earth do you mix epoxy with an un-powered drill chuck? You don't mean "chuck key" do you?

I do wonder if they had a pot of it, turned the drill on, and lowered
the chuck into it to mix it, possibly with some form of beater attached.

If they have done that, I can see why the owner of said drill wouldn't
normally let them near it...

[meow...@care2.com]

At age 13 & 16 I'm sure they knew perfectly well, unless retarded, that the glue would set solid.

Boil the thing. The epoxy will probably soften up very much in my limited experience, and pull off easily. (I gather it doesnt always.) Once done it will need a relube.


NT

[meow...@care2.com]

On Monday, October 13, 2014 5:54:27 PM UTC+1, Clive George wrote:

> On 13/10/2014 17:09, Tim wrote:

> > How on earth do you mix epoxy with an un-powered drill chuck? You don't mean "chuck key" do you?
> I do wonder if they had a pot of it, turned the drill on, and lowered
> the chuck into it to mix it, possibly with some form of beater attached.

Even then its trivial to do it without getting it on the chuck

> If they have done that, I can see why the owner of said drill wouldn't
> normally let them near it...

+1


NT

[Andy Burns]

meow...@care2.com wrote:

> On 13/10/2014 17:09, Tim wrote:
>
>> How on earth do you mix epoxy with an un-powered drill chuck? You don't mean "chuck key" do you?
>

> Boil the thing. The epoxy will probably soften up very much in my
> limited experience, and pull off easily. (I gather it doesnt always.)
> Once done it will need a relube.

Heat (oven or possibly blowtorch) might well persuade it to let go, if
some of the araldite from my youth is typical ...

[Cash]

Would have been far better (and easier) for dad to have taught them how to
use the thing (along with the correct use of handtools and various glues and
fixings), as I did with my kids (both sexes) - and now my grandchildren (the
two year old has used my cross-pein, pin-hammer for the first time today
nailing small scraps of timber together).

AND they even put the tools away and clean up after they have finished -
miracles do happen now and then!

Cash

[Nightjar]

I used to use an autoclave safe epoxy resin, which could withstand 134C.
ISTR it would start to break down at around 180C, so that ought to see
off most common epoxy adhesives. Mind you, I wouldn't want the fumes in
my kitchen cooker and I don't think I'd trust those kids with a blow
torch. :-)

--
Colin Bignell

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <BvudnTO1X_K716HJ...@giganews.com>,

Nightjar <\cpb\@ <insert my surname here> wrote:

> I used to use an autoclave safe epoxy resin, which could withstand 134C.
> ISTR it would start to break down at around 180C, so that ought to see
> off most common epoxy adhesives. Mind you, I wouldn't want the fumes in
> my kitchen cooker and I don't think I'd trust those kids with a blow
> torch. :-)

I used 'ordinary' epoxy - the sort you'd buy in a shed - to repair a
broken handle on a saucepan lid. Appeared to be a very strong 'fix' until
used when the steam soon wrecked it.

--
*And the cardiologist' s diet: - If it tastes good spit it out.

[e.arc...@gmail.com]

I don't know how they did it or what they were doing, but I've ordered a new one which hubby says he would have done anyway, he doesn't understand their motive behind using the chuck either. It was cheap epoxy from poundworld. Just waiting for the chuck to come, thanks for all your help guys.