I'm thinking that a compressed air driven needle gun is the way to go
but not sure how vicious (or not) such a device is. The substrate is
stone and the pointing may well need looking at and chasing out in
places before repainting.
So is the needle gun a good idea or is there something better out
there?
--
Cheers
Dave.
Would a pressure washer work?
--
Tim Watts
Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.
However I'm sure Tommy Walsh had an angle grinder (looked like 9")
with a large flat disc with a pad on it which was specifically to
remove paint without damaging the face of bricks. Once the face has
gone you are screwed, a few wet winters will trash them quite quickly.
The material on the disk was arranged in a raised spiral pattern, I
suspect not too different to a 3M Clean n Strip disc - but much harder
because they wear down very quickly when removing even small paint
spots from brickwork.
I took mine off a rendered surface with paint stripper (generic brand
from a trade outlet rather than the Nitromors). Took about 15 litres
IIRC. Piece of cake if the wall is flat. Forget it otherwise.
They're stones, not bricks.
Having it professionally blasted would be ideal but as you can imagine this
is going to be expensive.
manually with a wire brush is going to take forever.
Which leaves mechanically, and doing it with a needle gun wouldn't work
neither IME as I think the needles would just compress spots of paint into
the stone.
http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/directory/prodView.asp?idproduct=74
Is a grit blaster /pressure washer and can be had for about �50 a week,
although I'd be a bit wary of water ingress, especially if it requires
repointing in places
--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008
Even a big bugger would only take the flakey stuff off.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
Isn't that's all that's needed - he's repainting it?
As you're the man, can you get extra long lances on the for-hire big
machines for this sort of job?
I live in an old bolloxed house, but at least the walls aren't rendered
or painted - I think that's one job I'd hate more than anything...
"Dave Liquorice" <allsortsn...@howhill.com> wrote in message
news:nyyfbegfubjuvyypb...@srv1.howhill.co.uk...
I've used a needle gun on mine, but of course it doesn't do a very big area.
Good for getting off the stuff that's a bit flakey but won't actually fall
off. To my mind, if the gun won't take it off you can paint over it. It's
also not bad for digging into some of the irregular pointing on my random
stone, if that's what you have. I'm repointing with lime mortar and painting
with home made lime wash.
I'd say so - I originally bought my pressure washer for exactly this
purpose (crappy masonry old paint over crappy older pebbledash). TBH
the pressure washer was too powerful in that it tended to bring off the
render too... cearly that's shot and ideally wants redoing; however
pressure wash/stabiliser/Sandtex treatment worked miracles.
David
Fixed lances go to about 2m. You can get telescopic lances up to 7.2m
http://www.gandspenrith.co.uk/product_info.php?cat=1&subcat=17&productid=102
They do take a bit of hanging on to :-)
Doubt if many hire shops would have them though.
>>> Would a pressure washer work?
>>
>> Even a big bugger would only take the flakey stuff off.
>
> Isn't that's all that's needed - he's repainting it?
I'd like to get as much of the old layers of paint of as possible so
I can clean/stabilise the stone, repoint as required and apply a
modern breathable paint. By "old" I would guesstimate at 20 or 30
years and it's those old layers that are failing.
> As you're the man, can you get extra long lances on the for-hire big
> machines for this sort of job?
There is fair bit of kick from a normal short lance ona domestic
washer let along a BFO one with a long lance. You wouldn't be able to
see what you are doing either.
> I live in an old bolloxed house, but at least the walls aren't rendered
> or painted - I think that's one job I'd hate more than anything...
Render I hate, I always feel it's there to cover up a problem with
the wall. Last winter a great slab of it fell off one wall, base coat
is pretty soft with a hard thin layer. Who ever put it on didn't
remove the existing paint, that paint has now failed thus the render
has fallen off... I shall probably remove all that render as the rest
of the wall is bound to go the same way.
--
Cheers
Dave.
> I took mine off a rendered surface with paint stripper
<snip>
> Piece of cake if the wall is flat. Forget it otherwise.
Mixture of pebble dash, render but with a coarse sand surface and
random stone. Definately not flat and SWMBO'd would object to nasty
chemicals getting anywhere near the borders...
--
Cheers
Dave.
> On Tue, 15 Jun 2010 17:45:37 +0000 (UTC), Tim Watts wrote:
>
>>>> Would a pressure washer work?
>>>
>>> Even a big bugger would only take the flakey stuff off.
>>
>> Isn't that's all that's needed - he's repainting it?
>
> I'd like to get as much of the old layers of paint of as possible so I
> can clean/stabilise the stone, repoint as required and apply a modern
> breathable paint. By "old" I would guesstimate at 20 or 30 years and
> it's those old layers that are failing.
Fair enough - I would want to do the same now I understand what you have.
How about paint stripper then pressure washing?
>> As you're the man, can you get extra long lances on the for-hire big
>> machines for this sort of job?
>
> There is fair bit of kick from a normal short lance ona domestic washer
> let along a BFO one with a long lance. You wouldn't be able to see what
> you are doing either.
I was just thinking hanging off a ladder with a pressure washer lance
with crap flying everywhere might be a bit dicey - or do you have a tower/
scaffold?
> Which leaves mechanically, and doing it with a needle gun wouldn't work
> neither IME as I think the needles would just compress spots of paint
> into the stone.
If used straight on I can see that being a possibilty but when used
at an angle and the needles worn into lots of little chisels?
> http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/directory/prodView.asp?idproduct=74
>
> Is a grit blaster /pressure washer and can be had for about £50 a week,
Interesting, thanks for the link. I think you'd need to add the hire
of a suitable PW onto that £50/week though. As there is quite a bit
of "growth" behind the flaky paint a good wash down of the wall is
something that will have to happen anyway.
> although I'd be a bit wary of water ingress, especially if it requires
> repointing in places
Ha, we get proper wet up here driven by storm force winds... not
quite the same as a PW but a lot more than most buildings get exposed
to.
--
Cheers
Dave.
PS - something else I thought of - *against* the idea of using a
pressure washer: when I did our house, the entire garden (probably the
neighbours' too) was filled with flakes of white. It went everywhere,
all over the flowerbeds too, and probably took about a year or two until
all traces had finally disappeared. *She* was not a happy bunny.
David
Of possibly industrial grade
It will certainly rip loose flakes off, and general crud.
You make need to get close in with a domestic sort. Will take a long time.
If the surface is that rough anyway, you really don't care about a
smooth finish: just removing the flaky is all you want.
In essence all you want to do is hit the paint harder than the wind and
weather will in the future. Pressure washer is perfect for that.
No, sometimes its part of the intended structure of the house.
Last winter a great slab of it fell off one wall, base coat
> is pretty soft with a hard thin layer. Who ever put it on didn't
> remove the existing paint, that paint has now failed thus the render
> has fallen off... I shall probably remove all that render as the rest
> of the wall is bound to go the same way.
>
Ah well, mine is all laid over metal lathe, and painted to the hilt. Lovely.
Which will be as nothing compared to the time the painting is going to
take. Painting fresh pebbledash/Tyrolean render is one of the most
tedious jobs I've ever had to do.
David
Least of your problems. These things use shit loads of sand but only have a
cleaning area of about 10mm wide. And the carbide nozzles wear at a
phenominal rate.
As a guestimate, doing the front of an average house would take 2-3 tonnes
of sand (which you then have to get rid of) and take weeks. Carbide nozzle
will last around 3 hours @ £15 a pop.
> Least of your problems. These things use shit loads of sand but only
> have a cleaning area of about 10mm wide. And the carbide nozzles wear
> at a phenominal rate.
>
> As a guestimate, doing the front of an average house would take 2-3
> tonnes of sand (which you then have to get rid of) and take weeks.
> Carbide nozzle will last around 3 hours @ £15 a pop.
The link posted was to a wet blaster not dry. I can see that a dry
blaster would use a lot of sand and needs BOFO compressor (trawling
about the web yesterday I found a dry blaster, 72CFM @ 100psi...).
As I see it a wet blaster is just a pressure washer with some
abrasive in the water flow. The picture in the link shows a normal PW
lance with the grit attachment on the front. Nozzle wear could still
be a problem though. I shall have to ask some questions before going
that way. We have plenty of space to lose a tonne or two of grit
though, just have to shift it.
--
Cheers
Dave.
> PS - something else I thought of - *against* the idea of using a
> pressure washer: when I did our house, the entire garden (probably the
> neighbours' too) was filled with flakes of white. It went everywhere,
> all over the flowerbeds too, and probably took about a year or two until
> all traces had finally disappeared. *She* was not a happy bunny.
That thought had already occured to me, which was on of the plus
points for the needle gun. Going to get scaffolding for access so a
tarp can be put on the outside/around the work area to contain the
worst of a PW kick back, well in theory.
--
Cheers
Dave.
> I've used a needle gun on mine, but of course it doesn't do a very big
> area.
Ah the voice of experience. B-) A PW jet doesn't do a very big area
either.
> To my mind, if the gun won't take it off you can paint over it.
That would be my sort of thinking as well. The mechanical whacking
acation aspect being one up on the PW. How long did it take to clean
down say 1 sq m of fairly loose paint?
> I'm repointing with lime mortar and painting with home made lime wash.
I know one ought to use lime mortar/lime wash on a random stone but
we are *very* exposed and the existing pointing is cement based. In
the interests of not having to paint/patch repoint every few years I
don't think lime mortar and lime wash are up to it over cement mortar
and a modern breathable paint.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Serious stuff!
I'd at least do a small trial with paint stripper before embarking on
something that drastic. In my case it lifted the paint layers from the
masonry quite neatly. Even on an irregular surface, and left to dry, it
may well flake sufficiently to make it easier to remove.
One reason for lime mortar is that it's softer than stone,
so if the building settles then the pointing gives way, rather than the
stone cracking.
It may be a good idea to use a softer sand with portland cement.
so that it will give rather than the stone crack.
perhaps
[g]
> If you're using portland cement and stone then its non porous so why
> have a breathable paint?
The stone is sandstone not granite, so is a little porous. Over time
water will get bhind the paint layer I'd rather it had some chance of
getting out rather than sitting there and either making it's way
inside or freezing damaging the stone or paint layer. We had some
quite long periods (weeks) of consecuative "ice days" last winter.
Days when the air temp didn't get above freezing and overnight mins
of -10C.
> One reason for lime mortar is that it's softer than stone, so if the
> building settles then the pointing gives way, rather than the stone
> cracking.
This building has probably first built about 300 years ago, don't
know if it has been rebuilt since. Apparently it was a delerict shell
30 or 40 years ago. It's not likely to be still settling, it's almost
certainly built directly onto the bedrock as well.
--
Cheers
Dave.