PTFE plumbers mait etc
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george [dicegeorge]
Should every joint have PTFE tape and plumbers mait,
or should they be metal to metal,
only putting in tape if they leak?
[g]
John
news:ie8jo8$19aa$1...@news.enta.net...
Clean metal - smooth surfaces - need no other seal. ie Metal to Metal
dennis@home
"george [dicegeorge]" <diceg...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ie8jo8$19aa$1...@news.enta.net...
If done correctly.. metal to metal.
if you need to put sealant on there to stop a leak there is a fault and you
should fix it not bodge it with sealant.
Tabby
wrote:
Theyre meant to work metal on metal, but too many leaks in practice
means I always gloop them now, that works much better. It only takes a
surface scratch on the pipe to make the olive system not work bare.
Linseed putty's fine for non-potable uses.
NT
Tim Watts
I never use tape on a compression joint.
A smear of some suitable compound is a good idea if it's weeping or if
you suspect it might.
--
Tim Watts
A Plumber
"Tim Watts" <t...@dionic.net> wrote in message
news:ie8o3n$hd4$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
Don't overtighten the nuts, as this will make the olive squash the pipe,
then
you will never stop it leaking.
normally compression joints should be ok metal to metal, but sometimes
boss blue or boss white on non potable joints can be applied
Tim Watts
Speaking from a DIY non pro prespective:
The first couple I do after a spell off from plumbing, I undo the nut.
If the olive has just started to bite - ie a torch shows a very slight
indentation in the pipe right next to the olive, then that is in the
right range IME.
As you say, much more and you distort the olive. Much less and the olive
doesn't bite and it can feel tight but the next bit of thermal expansion
can leave you with a loose fitting.
I prefer brass olives - harder to do up but there's a satisfying creak
noise that lets you know you've got it about right. Copper olives on
copper are also fine but I find they don't creak and need less welly so
I prefer to be consistent if doing a run of joints.
Much harder on chromed pipe I found - rather more welly required than
you initially think and brass olives there are a must - copper's too soft.
If you get the fitting into that state of just-bitten then IME you're
guaranteed no serious leaks and most of the time you get a dry joint. A
few will weep *very slowly* (moreso chrome IME again) then it's just a
case of inching them up bit at a time just until they stop.
Micro weeping (where it looks dry, but is mysteriously damp an hour
later) usually cures itself as the minerals in the escaping water clag
up the scratch it's getting through. I had one of those - on a chromed
elbow where the action of doing up one side distrubed the other side
slightly. I got it down to about a drip a day and left it - cured itself
after a few days and has been dry ever since. Didn;'t want to risk over
tightening for the sake of it for the reasons given by the PP.
--
Tim Watts
John
Whatever you do - don't think that applying anything to the threads will
help. The threads are not part of the sealing - they are there to pull the
joint together and close up the olive.
george [dicegeorge]
> news:ie8o3n$hd4$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> On 14/12/10 20:23, george [dicegeorge] wrote:
>>> I've been swapping hot water copper pipes and olives.
>>> Should every joint have PTFE tape and plumbers mait,
>>> or should they be metal to metal,
>>> only putting in tape if they leak?
>>>
>>> [g]
>>>
>>
>> I never use tape on a compression joint.
>>
>> A smear of some suitable compound is a good idea if it's weeping or if you
>> suspect it might.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Watts
>
> Don't overtighten the nuts, as this will make the olive squash the pipe,
> then
> you will never stop it leaking.
> normally compression joints should be ok metal to metal, but sometimes
> boss blue or boss white on non potable joints can be applied
>
>
Doctor Drivel
"george [dicegeorge]" <diceg...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ie8jo8$19aa$1...@news.enta.net...
Plumbers Mate is not for threads. On compression joints use a smear of LSX.
Compression joints on plastic pipe need PTFE wrapped around the olive.
Grimly Curmudgeon
drugs began to take hold. I remember "dennis@home"
<den...@killspam.kicks-ass.net> saying something like:
>If done correctly.. metal to metal.
>if you need to put sealant on there to stop a leak there is a fault and you
>should fix it not bodge it with sealant.
In theoryland, Denboi.
dennis@home
"Doctor Drivel" <kill...@invalid.invalid> wrote in message
news:ie95eo$qvh$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
> Plumbers Mate is not for threads. On compression joints use a smear of
> LSX. Compression joints on plastic pipe need PTFE wrapped around the
> olive.
Shh don't tell mine, they have been without anything for 30 years!
Doctor Drivel
"dennis@home" <den...@killspam.kicks-ass.net> wrote in message
news:iea4vf$9j8$1...@news.datemas.de...
You have no experience of pipework. If the fitting is made to tight
tolerances and the pipe is also and no marks on fitting, olive and pipe then
it can seal with LSX.
Otherwise use it!
Tabby
> Whatever you do - don't think that applying anything to the threads will
> help. The threads are not part of the sealing - they are there to pull the
> joint together and close up the olive.
True that the threads dont provide a water seal, but in the case of a
knackered olive and none in stock you can simply fill the nut right up
with linseed putty, do it up and the result is watertight. As the nut
is done up the putty gets squeezedaround the olive with enough force
to do the job.
NT
F Murtz
associated with compression fittings.
there are some liquids or pastes which can be used sparingly on suspect
compression fittings.
The Medway Handyman
I often run a turn of PTFE around the thread on a compression fitting simply
make it easier to do up. Lubricant, not sealant.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
F Murtz
would jump to the conclusion that a non tradesman had worked on it.
John
> One of the problems with that is any subsequent person working on that
> would jump to the conclusion that a non tradesman had worked on it.
>
If you need a lubricant then surely a smear of grease or oil would be better
and wouldn't leave a trace so that people would think you had been
incompetent.
The Medway Handyman
What makes you think that? And why should I be bothered?
The Medway Handyman
PTFE is a far better lubricant than oil or grease. Maybe you could explain
why the use of PTFE is incompetent?
Doctor Drivel
"The Medway Handyman" <davidno-...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:VJ7Oo.53201$Wk6....@newsfe27.ams2...
Use plumbers grease for that.
Doctor Drivel
Professionals do not do that. They understand how the fitting works.
The Medway Handyman
I'm a professional - I understand how the fitting works. I don't cut Hep2O
with a hacksaw - I understand how that works.
The Medway Handyman
PTFE is a much better lubricant.
John
A well lubricated joint can end up (for the same torque) being done up
tighter than is necessary. Hence in industry - torque settings are specified
as either dry threads or lubricated threads.
Doctor Drivel
Amateur, it is NOT!
Doctor Drivel
"John" <Who90...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:HlFQo.73882$N41....@newsfe23.ams2...
> A well lubricated joint can end up (for the same torque) being done up
> tighter than is necessary. Hence in industry - torque settings are
> specified as either dry threads or lubricated threads.
Spot on.
Doctor Drivel
You are not!!! You are a jack-of-all trades handyman. I wouldn't trust you
with a heating system.
Fredxx
For once I'm with Dribble, though for different reasons.
PTFE may have lubricant properties, but PTFE creeps under load. Therefore
the initial force in a compression fitting will dissipate over time. I
also, have never seen a professional plumber use PTFE on a compression
fitting, and only on taper threads where any significant force is radial,
and not longitudinal or axial.
george [dicegeorge]
> I've been swapping hot water copper pipes and olives.
> Should every joint have PTFE tape and plumbers mait,
> or should they be metal to metal,
> only putting in tape if they leak?
>
> [g]
>
refitting it?
[g]
Tim Watts
000 wirewool
--
Tim Watts