sunscreen for conservatory
Stuart Noble
are 8 8ftx2ft glass panels. I don't want a permanent filter as I suppose
this would keep out too much sun in the Spring/Autumn. I'm thinking about
blinds, or curtains with a wire top and bottom. Anyone found an inexpensive
solution?
John
news:9lh1vr$du7$1...@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...
A very cheap and effective option is muslin fabric fixed between curtain
wires.
(the coiled metal spring covered with white plastic type).
The wires will last a long time, and the fabric is so cheap you can just
replace it if it gets too dirty.
Both items available from any fabric shop.
John
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Andy Hall
"Stuart Noble" <stu...@waxworks.fsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:9lh1vr$du7$1...@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...
I did that exercise a few months ago
http://www.conservatoriesonline.com/sunq.htm is a good reference site.
There are three solutions with variants that I could find that made sense,
although there are others if you want external shading.
1) Roman or festoon fabric blinds running on cords. They will tend to
billow somewhat because of the nature of the cords but you can turn that
into a feature if you use enough fabric. They won't perfectly cover all
of the glass but that may be acceptable. Choose a fairly plain and pale
colour because sunlight will fade anything else pretty quickly. Some
fabrics will rot in the sun as well. This is probably the cheapest if you
buy low cost material.
2) Concertina blinds. These are fitted to the frames and consist of a
synthetic material concertina arranged on tensioned stainless steel wires.
THey have a fitted bar and hook which you use with a pole to slide them up
and down. Some also have a cord and pully arrangement for this. Most
fabrics are a pastel colour and some of the better ones have metallisation
on the outside to reflect sunlight and heat. You can get these from a large
number of suppliers, some will do supply only, others are supply and fit.
It's realistically a DIY job if you want, but most cost is in the
manufacture and materials. Probably the best known supplier is Thomas
Sanderson (www.thomas-sanderson.co.uk) This type of blind gives the best
sun block with very little leakage of light if that's what you want.
3) Pinoleum blinds. These are fitted on the same principle a the
concertina type but are made in a more traditional French design of fine
wooden strips. The effect is to dapple and diffuse the light rather than
eliminating it, so it depends if you are happy with that effect or not.
Again there are several manufacturers, Appeal Blinds are the largest
supplier, (www.appealblinds.com) Marston Laninger and Vale are two others.
The concertina and pinoleum types can be motorised as well if you don't
relish the prospect of raising and lowering N blinds a day.
I'm afraid the vendors do all seem to employ travelling reps. and yes they
do use all the techniques to close a sale - discount this month, finance,
the lot.. However it doesn't mean that the products or the service are poor.
Usual caveats - ask for a quote valid at least 30 days, don't be pressured
into deciding on the night etc.
Better deals are to be had if you can wait until November or December
because business slackens and year ends approach.
For us it was a little difficult initially to decide between concertina and
pinoleum. The concerttina seemed to have better functionality - i.e. it
blocked light apparently more effectively, but the pinoleum looked
aesthetically much better. I was concerned about whether the pinoleum
would be effective enough in bright sun. In the event, we went and looked
at installations of both on our own and ended up preferring the pinoleum
quite strongly - the shielding was more than adequate and it looks a lot
better in our opinion. A more professional approach by Appeal helped as
did the irritating one from Thomas Sanderson.
The costing is not hugely different between the two types (2) and (3) - the
number ranges in the link at the top are in the right area, an I wouldn't
use the word cheap. It depends on area and if you have funny shapes.
However you will find that simple fabric blinds are not cheap either. Cloth
costs as well. I suspect the least expensive option would be concertina
blinds from a small local supplier, but do compare the quality of the
materials and the construction. The cheap ones don't have protected holes
where the wires run through and will fray.
HTH
.andy
The incredible Sulk
Can't you get something called '50% nettin' or somesuch from garden
centers etc? Its basically netting that gives you partial shade.
String a bit of that up.
--
Great Sayings of the past:
"He who sh*ts in the road will meet flies on his return" (Mr Natural)
"De Heffalumpis semper disputandum est" (Winne Ille Pu)
Zena Carter
I tried the curtain wire with fabric panels method. My experience is
that it is OK as a short term answer to the problem. However, they do
become a trap for flies and insects. This can look unnattractive! I am
still looking for a more aesthetically pleasing (and cheap!)
alternative.
Zena.
In article <3b7c1...@news4.newsgroups.com>, John
<jw...@cowl.co.uk.removethis> writes
--
Zena Carter
Andy Hall
"Zena Carter" <Ze...@cavalcade.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:5FgJ7CAV...@cavalcade.demon.co.uk...
> Hi Stewart,
>
> I tried the curtain wire with fabric panels method. My experience is
> that it is OK as a short term answer to the problem. However, they do
> become a trap for flies and insects. This can look unnattractive! I am
> still looking for a more aesthetically pleasing (and cheap!)
> alternative.
>
> Zena.
>
I tried hard and for a long time. I'm afraid aesthetically pleasing and
cheap don't go together on this
application. :-(
.andy
Tom
>
> Anyone got any info about sun filter material for a conservatory roof?
Go to the professionals, try the material they use in commercial
glasshouses, it comes in various filtration grades 30%, 50%, etc I got
some for my glasshouse from Fordingbridge PLc.
Try-
http://www.nurserybitz.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Energy_and_Shading_Materials_for_Greenhouses_30.html
Regards
Tom
Paul Mc Cann
the very light bamboo screens blinds available from the sheds.
I ran rigging wire around the wooden frames about 1" from the glass
surface, and used bottle screws to get the wire tensioned. The blind
material was then cut to size and laid on top of this wire. The blinds
can be shuffled up and down individually at each pane to adjust their
screening effect.
Our conservatory is the lean-to type and made from mahogany. The floor is
tiled herring-bone fashion with traditional red tiles and the furniture
is rattan.
The overall affect is pleasing to our eyes.
--
Paul Mc Cann
Its not that I kant spel jus that I kant tipe
Stuart Noble
Tom wrote in message <3B7CEDA9...@clara.co.uk>...
>Go to the professionals, try the material they use in commercial
>glasshouses, it comes in various filtration grades 30%, 50%, etc I got
>some for my glasshouse from Fordingbridge PLc.
> Try-
>http://www.nurserybitz.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Energy_and_Shading_M
aterials_for_Greenhouses_30.html
Ah, now that's interesting. Did you make it into blinds or what?
Stuart Noble
Andy Hall wrote in message <3b7c2000$1...@nt1.hall.gl>...
>I did that exercise a few months ago
>For us it was a little difficult initially to decide between concertina and
>pinoleum. The concerttina seemed to have better functionality - i.e. it
>blocked light apparently more effectively, but the pinoleum looked
>aesthetically much better. I was concerned about whether the pinoleum
>would be effective enough in bright sun. In the event, we went and looked
>at installations of both on our own and ended up preferring the pinoleum
>quite strongly - the shielding was more than adequate and it looks a lot
>better in our opinion.
Stuart Noble
Zena Carter wrote in message <5FgJ7CAV...@cavalcade.demon.co.uk>...
>I tried the curtain wire with fabric panels method. My experience is
>that it is OK as a short term answer to the problem. However, they do
>become a trap for flies and insects.
kind of polyester net/voile/sheer could just be washed in cold water now and
again.
Tom
>
> Ah, now that's interesting. Did you make it into blinds or what?
No, my glasshouse in which I grow tomatoes, early salads etc is placed
with it's ridge running E-W.
I merely fasten one side of the material just below the ridge vents,
allow it to drape over the outside of the South facing side, fasten a
2"*1" batten at the bottom and roll it up and out of the way on dull
days.
The material I use is Polyester/Aluminium 50% shading, ref No 15 on the
sample card. It's very effective at controlling the temps during periods
of high solar radiation.
They also market various types, some decorative, but all seem to be UV
stabilised for a 5 Year life.
Regards
Tom
Stuart Noble
Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
>Well, beauty in the eye of the be-holder etc., but we made up blinds from
>the very light bamboo screens blinds available from the sheds.
>
>I ran rigging wire around the wooden frames about 1" from the glass
>surface, and used bottle screws to get the wire tensioned. The blind
>material was then cut to size and laid on top of this wire. The blinds
>can be shuffled up and down individually at each pane to adjust their
>screening effect.
How ingenious!
This is actually for a customer of mine and I am not convinced the whole
structure won't have to be demolished eventually (but that's another story).
As things stand your suggestion might be the best bet. Can you elaborate a
little? Where would I get rigging wire and bottle screws? Did you just run
the wire north to south? How easy is it in practice to shuffle the blinds up
and down? (the lady is getting on a bit). Were the shed blinds easy to cut
cleanly?
The other story is........
A load of rot has been caused in the softwood structure IMO by the bottom
edge of the roof glass ending flush with the the timber (no overhang). To
replace the glass would mean clambering on to a potentially unsafe roof and
access from only one end rules out trestle arrangements.
As a quick fix I'm looking for a way to effectively "extend" the glass by an
inch. A quarter section of down pipe siliconed to the edge might be enough
to divert the water outwards and down into the gutter, but basically I've
run out of ideas on this one. If anything springs to mind.....anyone?
Andy Hall
You're welcome.
Since I wrote the post, we've had Appeal visit twice this week on service
calls. Some work was needed by the conservatory manufacturer to change
the roof vents to a different type. This involved two of the blinds being
unstrung while the vents were swapped and then being refitted. I could have
done that myself except the conservatory manufacturer agreed to pay and it
seemed better to have Appeal do the work.
As on the original install they arrived when they said they would, did a
good and professional job etc. I didn't mention in detail before but their
sales guy was professional to deal with as well. Initially he visited
around September last year, measured and quoted. We told him that we were
looking at other suppliers as well and would take a couple of months to
decide. He pointed out the important points in his product (mentioned in the
URL I included), said that if we wanted concertina blinds they supplied
those as well and didn't either rubbish the competition or attempt to
influence us on product type. THere was no heavy closing on his part at
all.
We asked whether better deals were available near year end (Dec.) which is
also a quiet period for conservatory blinds apparently - the sun drives the
sales.... If we were going to go for their pinoleum it was going to be in
a particular Farrow and Ball shade to pick up with the walls in the kitchen.
Samples of material of the right colour showed up the following week.
He called back as agreed around the end of November (didn't hassle us in
between, but we could call if there were questions). There was a 10% better
price for December orders and he was quite open about this being to help
meet their year end figures and keep the factory busy. I felt that was a
good incentive and paradoxically 10% seems better in a way than 50% becausee
that would have suggested substantial overpricing in the first place if you
follow me. Other suppliers like Sanderson were eliminated along the way so
it was pretty much a no-brainer.
The follow up was that a surveyor from Appeal, generally the guy that will
do the fitting, who then does accurate measurements.
Most conservatories are not perfectly square like most houses so especially
on blins in the corner or end panels a blind cut square may not look right
since the rafters may not be perfectly square. The frames and window panel
seals accomodate this of course. In our case one corner is about 1.5mm out
of square, invisible to the eye but a perfectly square blind would show.
So basically the blinds are cut to follow that, and in fact do very
effectively. 1.5mm along a nearly 3m run is pretty fine tuning.
I don't praise suppliers lightly. All I ask for is a good quality product
at a fair price for it and that the supplier does what he says he's going to
do when he says he's going to do it. The UK building industry seems to
have difficulty with this concept, considering 70% to be good enough.
There are probably a number of good blind suppliers - I looked at a few
local ones which seemed to be cheaper than Sanderson on concertina blinds,
but on pinoleum there are fewer suppliers. I couldn't find anything to
fault Appeal on at all, but definitely do shop around.
Reading the rest of the thread, Paul McCann's solution sounds quite
effective if you like a similar style to pinoleum and are happy to do the
work.
On the subject of flies, this is reasonably easily dealt with. After death
if they get trapped they tend to crispen quite quickly. All you need to do
with any blind is to tap it gently from underneath while raised (e.g. with a
broom covered in an old pillowcase) and the flies drop down to the bottom.
Drop the blinds and they can be removed with the vacuum cleaner and crevice
tool. The only slight chore we have is that we like to try and catch and
release bumble bees (since they are becoming rarer) and butterflies, so end
up dropping the blinds if we spot one.
.andy
Andy Hall
"Paul Mc Cann" <tp...@eircom.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.15e82e84a...@news1.eircom.net...
> >
> >
> Well, beauty in the eye of the be-holder etc., but we made up blinds from
> the very light bamboo screens blinds available from the sheds.
>
> I ran rigging wire around the wooden frames about 1" from the glass
> surface, and used bottle screws to get the wire tensioned. The blind
> material was then cut to size and laid on top of this wire. The blinds
> can be shuffled up and down individually at each pane to adjust their
> screening effect.
>
> Our conservatory is the lean-to type and made from mahogany. The floor is
> tiled herring-bone fashion with traditional red tiles and the furniture
> is rattan.
>
> The overall affect is pleasing to our eyes.
> --
>
That sounds pretty good Paul - quite a similar effect to pinoleum I think.
I guess you get the same kind of dappled light effect as we do and as you
say the overall effect is pretty pleasing with tiled/stone floors and rattan
furniture.
Perhaps Stuart could contact you for a photo??
.andy
Paul Mc Cann
stu...@waxworks.fsnet.co.uk says...
>
> Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
> >Well, beauty in the eye of the be-holder etc., but we made up blinds from
> >the very light bamboo screens blinds available from the sheds.
> >
> >I ran rigging wire around the wooden frames about 1" from the glass
> >surface, and used bottle screws to get the wire tensioned. The blind
> >material was then cut to size and laid on top of this wire. The blinds
> >can be shuffled up and down individually at each pane to adjust their
> >screening effect.
>
> How ingenious!
> This is actually for a customer of mine and I am not convinced the whole
> structure won't have to be demolished eventually (but that's another story).
> As things stand your suggestion might be the best bet. Can you elaborate a
> little? Where would I get rigging wire and bottle screws? Did you just run
> the wire north to south? How easy is it in practice to shuffle the blinds up
> and down? (the lady is getting on a bit). Were the shed blinds easy to cut
> cleanly?
THe rigging wire and bottle screws were obtained from a ships chandlers.
The wire is threaded through screw eyes placed in the 4 corners and
tensioned at the ridge with the bottle screws.
I found it easy to cut the blind material while it was still in the roll
with a handsaw. As it came it wasn't long enough but I joined it with hot
melt glue.
We use a length of bamboo rod to shuffle it up and down merely because I
was too lazy to effect a finer solution. Hey, it works !
> The other story is........
> A load of rot has been caused in the softwood structure IMO by the bottom
> edge of the roof glass ending flush with the the timber (no overhang). To
> replace the glass would mean clambering on to a potentially unsafe roof and
> access from only one end rules out trestle arrangements.
> As a quick fix I'm looking for a way to effectively "extend" the glass by an
> inch. A quarter section of down pipe siliconed to the edge might be enough
> to divert the water outwards and down into the gutter, but basically I've
> run out of ideas on this one. If anything springs to mind.....anyone?
>
Could you slip a short strip of copper sheet under the glass and extend
the other edge down to the gutter ?
Stuart Noble
Tom wrote in message <3B7E6B13...@clara.co.uk>...
>The material I use is Polyester/Aluminium 50% shading, ref No 15 on the
>sample card. It's very effective at controlling the temps during periods
>of high solar radiation.
>They also market various types, some decorative, but all seem to be UV
>stabilised for a 5 Year life.
Stuart Noble
Andy Hall wrote in message <3b7e757f$1...@nt1.hall.gl>...
> I couldn't find anything to
>fault Appeal on at all, but definitely do shop around.
in a peace of mind mode, Appeal sounds like the way to go. Less/no work for
me though :-)
Stuart Noble
Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...
>the other edge down to the gutter ?