Tiles on dry lining?
Matthew Marks
Asher Hoskins (as...@prl.philips.co.uk) wrote:
: Hello.
:
: The old house I'm currently doing up has plasterboard drylining in the
: bathroom. Since I'm planning on fitting a shower I'll need to tile the walls
: next to the bath. Does anyone know if plasterboard is strong enough to
: support tiles or will their weight pull it apart?
I don't think the weight is the problem, but I think it's recommended to put
shower tiles on plywood, because other wise the inevitable slight dampness
will cause the plasterboard to fall apart.
Matthew mat...@rd.bbc.co.uk My opinions, not Auntie's.
Asher Hoskins
Hello.
The old house I'm currently doing up has plasterboard drylining in the
bathroom. Since I'm planning on fitting a shower I'll need to tile the walls
next to the bath. Does anyone know if plasterboard is strong enough to
support tiles or will their weight pull it apart?
Asher.
--
Asher Hoskins | Finally, I'll add that adding small frogs
DoD #506 | to your coffee enhances absorption of
PGP key available | several psychogenic tannins.
as...@prl.philips.co.uk | --- from alt.drugs.caffeine FAQ
Alan J Holmes
In article <DxtyD...@prl.research.philips.com>,
>The old house I'm currently doing up has plasterboard drylining in the
>bathroom. Since I'm planning on fitting a shower I'll need to tile the walls
>next to the bath. Does anyone know if plasterboard is strong enough to
>support tiles or will their weight pull it apart?
It's not so much a problem with weight, but of movement, the
plaster will move and break up the grouting between the tiles,
you could try a silicone sealer instead of a solid grout.
Alan
Jonathan Cain
I am currently thinking of purchasing a MATKI Finesse Shower Surround,
but locally the prices seem to be a little on the expensive i.e. Ł800.00
for two sides and a shower tray. Does anybody have any other solutions
or recommendations.
Jonathan Cain
j.c...@swansea.ac.uk
Andrew Willoughby
In article: <51ju17$s...@bbcnews.rd.bbc.co.uk> mat...@rd.bbc.co.uk
(Matthew Marks) writes:
> I don't think the weight is the problem, but I think it's
recommended to put
> shower tiles on plywood, because other wise the inevitable slight
dampness
> will cause the plasterboard to fall apart.
I put tiles onto freshly plastered plasterboard four years ago, in a
shower cubicle, no problems yet. I used lots of waterproof tile
adhesive spread carefully over the plaster, not just the usual notched
scraping.
Surely plywood would expand with damp and open up the cracks to let
more water in? Then more expansion and tiles would fall off?
--
Andrew
Slow down, relax, enjoy life!
No, not *that* slow, the legal limit will do nicely thanks!
Tom Mullan
>Hello.
>
>The old house I'm currently doing up has plasterboard drylining in the
>bathroom. Since I'm planning on fitting a shower I'll need to tile the walls
>next to the bath. Does anyone know if plasterboard is strong enough to
>support tiles or will their weight pull it apart?
>
>
I've tiled a bathroom with plasterboard walls and had no problems at
all, and I shall be doing it again in my new house. Just make sure you
use waterproof adhesive and grout.
Cheers
--
Tom Mullan
Ken McNair
Don't use ordinary plasterboard !
Water got behind my tiles and they started falling
off !
There is a water resistant type (in Canada it's green);
better still use tile backer board which is much
stronger and more water resistant (I believe it's
made of fibreglass reinforced cement rather than
gypsum). Dunno what the trade name is here.
John Webster
Jonathan Cain <j.c...@swansea.ac.uk> wrote:
>I am currently thinking of purchasing a MATKI Finesse Shower Surround,
>but locally the prices seem to be a little on the expensive i.e. £800.00
>for two sides and a shower tray. Does anybody have any other solutions
>or recommendations.
>
I have put in a Wickes two sided surround about 3 years ago for £70, and
a shower tray from them at about £90. No problems so far, so I cannot
see how £800 can be justified.
--
John Webster
jo...@corinium.demon.co.uk
Nigel Brown
In article <DxtyD...@prl.research.philips.com>, as...@prl.philips.co.uk
(Asher Hoskins) wrote:
> The old house I'm currently doing up has plasterboard drylining in the
> bathroom. Since I'm planning on fitting a shower I'll need to tile the walls
> next to the bath. Does anyone know if plasterboard is strong enough to
> support tiles or will their weight pull it apart?
There seem to be different experiences. I tiled directly onto
plasterboard across the head of a bath which had a showerhead on the side
wall. Thus far, no problems after 5 years. Adhesive and grouting were
waterproof and applied VERY carefully; the bath-wall junction has been
resealed once. You do need to make sure that there is no movement in the
plasterboard before tiling.
The only tiles that have fallen off in our house were those put up on
solid plaster by a 'professional' tiler!
Nigel Brown
--
Nigel L. Brown Email: N.L....@bham.ac.uk
School of Biological Sciences Tel: (+44) 121-414-5465
The University of Birmingham Fax: (+44) 121-414-5907
Edgbaston, Birmingham B15 2TT, UK
John E. Fox
In article <N.L.Brown-210...@bcs233.bham.ac.uk>, N.L....@bham.ac.uk (Nigel Brown) says:
>
>In article <DxtyD...@prl.research.philips.com>, as...@prl.philips.co.uk
>(Asher Hoskins) wrote:
>
I have tiled our dry lined bathroom with no problems at all.
Just make sure it is well grouted, especially at the bottom
and that the shower base fitts well.
Having said that I will probably go home to a pile of tiles
on the floor!!!
John Fox
******************************************************************
Alta BioScience Email: alta...@bham.ac.uk
School of Biochemistry Phone: 0121-414-5450
The University of Birmingham Fax: 0121-414-3376
Edgbaston, BIRMINGHAM, B15 2TT, UK
Phil Addison
Andrew Willoughby <And...@willouby.demon.co.uk> wrote:
> In article: <51ju17$s...@bbcnews.rd.bbc.co.uk> mat...@rd.bbc.co.uk
> (Matthew Marks) writes:
>
> > I don't think the weight is the problem, but I think it's
> recommended to put
> > shower tiles on plywood, because other wise the inevitable slight
> dampness
> > will cause the plasterboard to fall apart.
>
> I put tiles onto freshly plastered plasterboard four years ago, in a
> shower cubicle, no problems yet. I used lots of waterproof tile
> adhesive spread carefully over the plaster, not just the usual notched
> scraping.
>
> Surely plywood would expand with damp and open up the cracks to let
> more water in? Then more expansion and tiles would fall off?
It should be marine ply.
--
Phil
Matthew Marks
Phil Addison (ph...@severn.demon.co.uk) wrote:
:
: It should be marine ply.
Looked at my trusty DIY book last night and it suggested exterior ply -
probably not quite as good but a hell of a lot cheaper!
Andrew Willoughby
In article: <3246bf4e...@news.demon.co.uk>
>
> > Surely plywood would expand with damp and open up the cracks to
let
> > more water in? Then more expansion and tiles would fall off?
>
>
Marine ply just has better glue, and better quality control. It's
still basically wood, and wood expands when it gets wet.
R.Bland
In article <104984...@willouby.demon.co.uk>, Andrew Willoughby <And...@willouby.demon.co.uk> writes:
|> Marine ply just has better glue, and better quality control. It's
|> still basically wood, and wood expands when it gets wet.
Up to a point. IMO, when a plank gets wet it gets thicker,
wider, but *not* longer. When ply get wet it only gets thicker
(because it contains fibres of constant length across *both* its
length and its breadth).
Richard Bland
Computing Science & Mathematics | email: r.b...@cs.stir.ac.uk
University of Stirling | Phone: 01786 467424
Stirling FK9 4LA | Fax: 01786 464551
| URL: http://www.cs.stir.ac.uk/~rbl
John Schmitt
In article <104984...@willouby.demon.co.uk>, Andrew Willoughby <And...@willouby.demon.co.uk> writes:
>ph...@severn.demon.co.uk (Phil Addison) writes:
>>
>> > Surely plywood would expand with damp and open up the cracks to
>let
>> > more water in? Then more expansion and tiles would fall off?
>>
>> It should be marine ply.
>>
>
>still basically wood, and wood expands when it gets wet.
A properly designed and detailed tiling job does not let any moisture in
unless;
1) It is permanently below water e.g. swimming pool.
2) It is used for protracted periods with sprayed water e.g. the showers in a
sports centre.
For a domestic installation, tiling on to plasterboard is sailing a bit close
to the wind, but any plywood will be fine if well braced. The level of RH on
houses is fairly steady so moisture movement of wood can be ignored. The
important points are;
1) Prepare the surface. Loose and flaking surfaces need wirebrushing down to
good substrate as does highly trowelled plaster. Prime the surface.
2) Do not tile tight into corners. leave a 6mm. gap at the edges and fill them
with grout. If you tile tight the slightest structural movement will cause the
tiles to blow off.
3) Use a silicone sealant at the bottom boundary. This is where almost all
moisture related problems begin.
4) spread the adhesive on the wall as directed on the container. Using the
"blob" method allows the water to get around behind the tiles and cause damage.
John Schmitt
Disclaimers apply.
"Nationalism is an infantile disease. It is the measles of mankind."
-- Albert Einstein