Felt overlapping guttering?
Jim Spriggs
tiles and overhangs into the gutter, which I understand is correct.
(tell me if it isn't!)
However in some places the felt has become rotten and I'd like to fix
it somehow, as I understand water can get into the walls if this isn't
done.
I guess the proper thing to do would be to take the roof off and put
new felt in, but this seems a bit drastic.
I was wondering if anyone knows of an easier way I could repair it,
such as inserting some sort of plastic (?) sheeting up under the
lowest tiles - maybe the weight of the tiles would just hold it in
place.
I know this sounds like a bode, but perhaps something's available
which would do the trick?
Any advice on this welcome.
Thanks
Jim
Andrew Gabriel
jimsp...@noSPAMfixed.abode (Jim Spriggs) writes:
>On my house the roofing felt emerges from the bottom of the lowest
>tiles and overhangs into the gutter, which I understand is correct.
>(tell me if it isn't!)
>
>However in some places the felt has become rotten and I'd like to fix
>it somehow, as I understand water can get into the walls if this isn't
>done.
>
>I guess the proper thing to do would be to take the roof off and put
>new felt in, but this seems a bit drastic.
>
>I was wondering if anyone knows of an easier way I could repair it,
>such as inserting some sort of plastic (?) sheeting up under the
>lowest tiles - maybe the weight of the tiles would just hold it in
>place.
Just been fixing this problem myself. I make no guarantee this
is correct, but here's what I did...
Lift off the bottom row of tiles and push the second row up far
enough to clear the bottom rafter (is that the right name for
the wooden strips which hook the back edge of the tiles?).
These are concrete interlocking tiles, may require other methods
for slates, etc.
Trim off the frayed edge of the felt - I did this about half way
between the bottom rafter and the facia board.
Remove the bottom rafter being careful not to damage the felt under
it. I didn't try to preserve the rafter itself though.
Slide a new strip of felt under the edge of the existing felt and
up above the position of the removed bottom rafter. Arrange the
lower edge to overhang into the gutter. In my case, the width
required was exactly half the width of the roll. I didn't have a
good way of cutting it, so I folded it over length-wise and used
a double thickness (fold at the top edge). Take notice that roofing
felt is like large sheets of heavy sandpaper, and by the time you've
pushed one sheet under another and got it all lined up as you want
it, your hands will be very sore!
Replace the bottom rafter, which should hold the edge of the
original felt and the new strip of felt in place. Replace and
reposition the tiles.
I took the opportunity to replace the facia board, and treat the
piece of wood along the top of the wall which holds the ends of
the A frame with woodworm killer, as the odd hole was visible.
--
Andrew Gabriel
Consultant Software Engineer
Andrew
<and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes
>In article <382c18ca...@news.logica.co.uk>,
> jimsp...@noSPAMfixed.abode (Jim Spriggs) writes:
>>On my house the roofing felt emerges from the bottom of the lowest
>>tiles and overhangs into the gutter, which I understand is correct.
>>(tell me if it isn't!)
>>
>>However in some places the felt has become rotten and I'd like to fix
>>it somehow, as I understand water can get into the walls if this isn't
>>done.
>Just been fixing this problem myself. I make no guarantee this
>is correct, but here's what I did...
>
>Lift off the bottom row of tiles and push the second row up far
>I took the opportunity to replace the facia board, and treat the
>piece of wood along the top of the wall which holds the ends of
>the A frame with woodworm killer, as the odd hole was visible.
>
that slide under the existing roofing felt and are supposed to be
used when one of their 'approved' installers replaces wooden
facias/barges/soffits with Upvc.
--
Andrew
Jim Spriggs
<and...@skydata.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>Lift off the bottom row of tiles and push the second row up far
><snip>
>
>
>I believe that Swish Building Products sell special flexible sections
>that slide under the existing roofing felt and are supposed to be
>used when one of their 'approved' installers replaces wooden
>facias/barges/soffits with Upvc.
>--
this in my case. It was too long ago for me to get them to do it now.
Maybe I could get some of the felxible (presumably some sort of PVC?)
stuff from them and put it in? Do you know if it's an easy DIY job, or
would it involve removing tiles, etc? I was (kind of!) hoping that I
could get away with pushing some suitable material under the bottom
row of tiles in situ, which would do the job. I know it sounds a bit
like a bodge, but I would have thought the weight of the tiles would
hold it in place.
Jim
Donald
Guys - sorry for coming in so late.
Having just (6 months ago) fitted a roof to my
garage - I put the end of the felt into the gutter.
It never seemed a 100% quality job because the felt
seems to rot over time.
Recently I spotted a 'Pro' down the road from me
cutting the felt flush and using a roll of DPC (damp proof
membrane for walls)(about 1 foot wide) to dip into the gutter
- this seems a much better job and could be retro-fitted.
Hope this helps,
Donald..
Roger Dyke
<jimsp...@noSPAMfixed.abode> writes
>On Sat, 13 Nov 1999 22:50:35 +0000, Andrew
><and...@skydata.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>>Lift off the bottom row of tiles and push the second row up far
>><snip>
>>
>Phew! Don't really fancy that much... :-(
>>
>>I believe that Swish Building Products sell special flexible sections
>>that slide under the existing roofing felt and are supposed to be
>>used when one of their 'approved' installers replaces wooden
>>facias/barges/soffits with Upvc.
>>--
>I already have Swish Fascias / soffits but they evidently didn't do
>this in my case. It was too long ago for me to get them to do it now.
>Maybe I could get some of the felxible (presumably some sort of PVC?)
>stuff from them and put it in?
Yes, they are usually called Eaves Trays. Many people made them - most
being cheaper than Swish. Some are easier to fit than others.
Ask at a "PVC windows, fascias and guttering" shed.
If you are happy working at eaves ht, it's a straightforward diy job
once you've got the hang of lifting the tiles.
Eaves trays are going to last far longer than felt or dpc matl.
Remove X to email
--
Roger
Jim Spriggs
<dmc...@nortelnetworks.com> wrote:
>Recently I spotted a 'Pro' down the road from me
>cutting the felt flush and using a roll of DPC (damp proof
>membrane for walls)(about 1 foot wide) to dip into the gutter
>- this seems a much better job and could be retro-fitted.
>
all the others who offered advice, too.
Jim
Matthew Marks
Donald <dmc...@nortelnetworks.com> writes:
> Recently I spotted a 'Pro' down the road from me
> cutting the felt flush and using a roll of DPC (damp proof
> membrane for walls)(about 1 foot wide) to dip into the gutter
> - this seems a much better job and could be retro-fitted.
A builder's bill from before I moved into my house lists a "nolon drip" being
fitted on some of the fascias. This looks like thick black PVC sheet,
reinforced with a matrix of something (also flexible). It is simply clout-
nailed in place. I don't know offhand
when it was fitted, but it has survived perfectly well on the due south facing
fascia for the 5 years I have lived there. If "nolon drip" is the term used
by a builder, a builders' merchant might have heard of it.
--
Matthew @rd.bbc.co.uk My opinions, not Auntie's
For the uk.d-i-y FAQ, goto http://pages.eidosnet.co.uk/~ukdiy/index.html
Kenneth Humphreys
had the same prob myself, so went to roofing place near me and they said to
use 18" wide dpc (black plastic sort of stuff, stiffish )brickies use
narrowerstrip
under brick work.just shove second row of tiles up then lift lower tiles off
after removing nails,put dpc so that old felt overlaps it then put tiles
back
end of tile bends dpc into gutter.
ken
Jim Spriggs <jimsp...@noSPAMfixed.abode> wrote in message
news:382c18ca...@news.logica.co.uk...
> On my house the roofing felt emerges from the bottom of the lowest
> tiles and overhangs into the gutter, which I understand is correct.
> (tell me if it isn't!)
>
> However in some places the felt has become rotten and I'd like to fix
> it somehow, as I understand water can get into the walls if this isn't
> done.
>
> I guess the proper thing to do would be to take the roof off and put
> new felt in, but this seems a bit drastic.
>
> I was wondering if anyone knows of an easier way I could repair it,
> such as inserting some sort of plastic (?) sheeting up under the
> lowest tiles - maybe the weight of the tiles would just hold it in
> place.
>
Richard Yates
> [ ... felt overlapping guttering ... ]
Is this really needed, though, in general? It seems another of
those things like slaters' felt that have only come in comparatively
recently, and weren't used before.
Richard.
--
Please e-mail copy r.j....@open.ac.uk when replying,
if you will be so kind.
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Richard Yates
John Armstrong
wrote:
>
>> [ ... felt overlapping guttering ... ]
>
>Is this really needed, though, in general? It seems another of
>those things like slaters' felt that have only come in comparatively
>recently, and weren't used before.
>
Well I suppose if you don't have any felt (my roof doesn't) then you
don't need felt into the gutter :-)
If you do have felt though, then the bottom edge should lap into the
gutter otherwise any water that does get onto the felt will end up on
the wall top.
--
John