Noisy new float valve in loft
Jeremy Collins
I've replaced the float valve in my loft header tank (the old
one was knackered and the tank was leaking from the overflow).
But the new valve is *much* noisier (despite being identical
in appearance).
Is there anything I can do to reduce the sound of a giant khazi
filling over my head? Or do I just have to get used to it?
Cheers,
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Woodspoiler
fit something like this:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12780&ts=35829
They are fast and quiet. I bought mine a while ago and it was
sold specifically for header tanks. This one seems to be suitable
for toilet cisterns & headers.
W.
"Jeremy Collins" <jd.co...@ntlworld-not.com> wrote in message
news:jk0%a.12934$yl6....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
Jeremy Collins
> Rather than fiddle with what was probably a cheap iterm,
Err, you guessed it - 3.99 from B&Q. I'm not the most confident
DIY plumber in the world, so I went for the thing that looked
identical to the existing valve.
> why not fit something like this:
> http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12780&ts=35829
> They are fast and quiet. I bought mine a while ago and it was
> sold specifically for header tanks. This one seems to be suitable
> for toilet cisterns & headers.
Ah, OK. Actually that may also fix my slow-filling lav too. I'll
order a couple next time I need some stuff from Screwfix.
I should probably try to get at least a couple of week's use out
of my 4 quid valve, and it's so bloody hot in the loft I don't mind
waiting :-)
IMM
"Jeremy Collins" <jd.co...@ntlworld-not.com> wrote in message
news:jk0%a.12934$yl6....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
>
> I've replaced the float valve in my loft header tank (the old
> one was knackered and the tank was leaking from the overflow).
>
> But the new valve is *much* noisier (despite being identical
> in appearance).
>
> Is there anything I can do to reduce the sound of a giant khazi
> filling over my head? Or do I just have to get used to it?
You may want to insert an in-line service valve in the pipe. Open the ball
valve fully and see if the overflow can take the flow. If the flow is too
high then reduce to suit. If a valve goes then you will have a rather wet
ceiling which may come down if it happens when you are out, as the overflow
can't cope,
---
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Christian McArdle
>filling over my head? Or do I just have to get used to it?
You can get silent anti-syphon valves. These have a thin plastic tube
hanging out the bottom. This directs the water under the surface, so not
splashing. They act as one way valves, so the water can't be sucked back
into the pipework. (You can also add a non-return valve if worried).
Christian.
Jeremy Collins
> "Jeremy Collins" <jd.co...@ntlworld-not.com> wrote in message
> news:jk0%a.12934$yl6....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
>>I've replaced the float valve in my loft header tank (the old
>>one was knackered and the tank was leaking from the overflow).
> You may want to insert an in-line service valve in the pipe. Open the ball
> valve fully and see if the overflow can take the flow. If the flow is too
> high then reduce to suit. If a valve goes then you will have a rather wet
> ceiling which may come down if it happens when you are out, as the overflow
> can't cope,
I agree that service valves are a Good Thing (the plumbing in this
house had NONE grrrr), but in this case I think I'll leave it.
The overflow is quite fat & steep, and coped with a very knackered
float valve. Besides, looking at the mechanics of the thing, even
when the valve failed the pressure was still reduced quite a lot as
the float arm was floating and restricting the flow into the tank.
If that makes any sense.
IMM
Insert a service valve. Wickes sell the chrome Speedfit push-fit service
valve. Just cut the pipe with pipe cutters and push on. If the float
totally goes and the arm fully drops into the tank then you have full bore
and the overflow may not cope. Check this by pushing the arm fully down
your self. If the overflow can't cope then a service valve "has" to be
installed and the flow cut back. This is not an option, it has to be done.
Paul Hewish
I think Christian, in his posting, gets to the source of your problem. Your
original kit may have had a, probably brass, filler tube going below the
surface, so you would not have heard much filling noise. You can't get them
any more as they break the water bylaws because of syphoning. The new way,
as Christian mentions, is for a long flacid plastic thing to replace the
open brass filler pipe.
Paul
Paul Hewish
Jeremy Collins
That makes sense - I was completely unaware of all these dizzying
advances in cistern technlology ;-)
I'm going to live with the noise until the next time I need a bunch
of stuff from Screwfix, at which point I'm going to order a quiet
valve. (The damn thing woke me up this morning after a night at
the pub.... bleh).
dennis...@gmail.com
Tim+
Tim
Brian-Gaff
Blimey.
Brian
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<dennis...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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G.Harman