MM
> Obviously, the genuine plastic guides are no longer available, but
> what ingenious methods have others applied to simulate the guides?
No responses, maybe not many people know what a Copydex JointMaster
is? I've not heard of it before but google
finds:
http://www.woodworkersguildofga.com/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1180962363
/
I guess you are looking for the rounded clippy things at the top
right of the saw guides?
--
Cheers
Dave.
Hmm that takes me back a bit. My mother used to have one of those ;-)
How about a bit of something springy like neoprene with a slice of PTFE
rod on the end of it?
--
Cheers,
John.
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Yep.
MM
I still have mine. Gets occasional use away from home.
I don't think the *clippy thing* is essential. Just keep the blade to
one side of the slot manually.
My first problem was having to find a tenon saw with a blade deep enough
to reach the bottom of the guides. In the era of throw away saws with
stiff blades and huge choice of tooth intervals, this may not be an
obstacle.
regards
>
--
Tim Lamb
>On 21/05/2011 22:56, Dave Liquorice wrote:
>> On Sat, 21 May 2011 15:09:21 +0100, MM wrote:
>>
>>> Obviously, the genuine plastic guides are no longer available, but
>>> what ingenious methods have others applied to simulate the guides?
>>
>> No responses, maybe not many people know what a Copydex JointMaster
>> is? I've not heard of it before but google
>> finds:
>>
>> http://www.woodworkersguildofga.com/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?m-1180962363
>> /
>>
>> I guess you are looking for the rounded clippy things at the top
>> right of the saw guides?
>
>Hmm that takes me back a bit. My mother used to have one of those ;-)
>
>How about a bit of something springy like neoprene with a slice of PTFE
>rod on the end of it?
Possible. As I recall, the jig came with a couple of spare guides, but
I kick myself that I didn't buy 50 of them at the time, because they
would have lasted my lifetime. When new guides are installed (i.e. not
worn down after extended use) this little jig was truly useful. Now
that they ones in my jig are worn completely flat, the saw blade
wobbles too much for the thing to be much use (which is why I've never
bought one of those mitre boxes).
I've also been thinking of modifying it to accept the kinds of carbon
brushes used in old-fashioned car dynamos or powerdrills, but with
stronger springs. So far, I've thought of everything that could
possibly be adapted, including plastic clothes pegs.
MM
Get a mitre box. Much easier to use.
Dad had one of these Jointmasters back in the '70s. Neither of us ever
found any use for it.
I found a new tenon saw in Wilkinson for under a fiver. That works
with the 'dex.
MM
>On May 21, 3:09 pm, MM <kylix...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>> Obviously, the genuine plastic guides are no longer available, but
>> what ingenious methods have others applied to simulate the guides?
>
>Get a mitre box. Much easier to use.
But a mitre box doesn't have any guide 'clip' to stop the saw wobbling
in the groove. The clip was the JointMaster's secret weapon.
>Dad had one of these Jointmasters back in the '70s. Neither of us ever
>found any use for it.
On the contrary, back then I sawed many pieces of wood nice and
square. I reckon it was and is a genuinely useful tool. But the clips
are both its secret weapon and its Achilles' heel.
MM
> But a mitre box doesn't have any guide 'clip' to stop the saw wobbling
> in the groove. The clip was the JointMaster's secret weapon.
First of all, learn to hold the saw flat against the guide.
Secondly, a decent and new mitre box doesn't rattle around the saw.
Better mitre boxes even have adjustable guides at the top, which you
can adjust down to blade thickness, not just kerf width.
>On May 22, 12:45 pm, MM <kylix...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> But a mitre box doesn't have any guide 'clip' to stop the saw wobbling
>> in the groove. The clip was the JointMaster's secret weapon.
>
>First of all, learn to hold the saw flat against the guide.
Er, isn't that the point of the JointMaster? (As long as the guides
are in good nick.)
>Secondly, a decent and new mitre box doesn't rattle around the saw.
>Better mitre boxes even have adjustable guides at the top, which you
>can adjust down to blade thickness, not just kerf width.
Note: I don't want to cut mitres, I want to cut at 90 deg. All the
mitre boxes I've seen with adjustable guides are for cutting mitres.
MM
>> I guess you are looking for the rounded clippy things at the top
>> right of the saw guides?
>
> Yep.
Self adhesive nylon wire clips? Maybe a P clip or something like:
http://www.kss.com.tw/e4k/e4-5/e0520-1.asp
--
Cheers
Dave.