sticking 5 lever sash locks
andyv
years old and it's often a struggle to get the key to turn. If I had
to get out in an emergency this could be a problem. They do open in
the end after a certain amount of jiggling. I've oiled them and
checked the lock is correctly lined up with the slot in the door
frame.
I'm faced with a £200 bill to replace them.
Before I am forced to spend the cash is there anything that can be
done to ease them up.
Part timer
£200 for 4? Seems steep to me if you're talking parts plus DIY labour.
Be thankful that they still work well enough to get the doors open! If
removing one of them (2 screws) is within your scope, do you see any
make/model identifications? How worn are the keys? 30 years is quite a
while for them still to be working, and new ones would possibly be
built to higher standards anyway.
In 2003 IIRC, we had a 5 Lever BS Chubb mortice lock from 1988
_almost_ die in the locked position. A bit of key wiggling got it to
bite, I removed it from the door and bought a replacement for <£40 -
and that was a pretty expensive lock. I didn't have any other options
without woodwork modifications. The locksmith said he could
recondition the old one for £6 but since the keys were quite worn I
didn't want to take chances about coming home and not being able to
unlock the door.
It's since been wiped out by an attempted break-in and the new door
has an Era sash lock I think.
John
"Part timer" <hhmn...@googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:93c74ded-c314-4e21...@u26g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
It could be the oil that has caused the problem and may be causing some of
the components to get gummed up. I had this and after removing it -
stripping it and cleaning all the parts it is now like new. Oil attracts and
holds dust.
Dave Baker
The brass plates inside wear over time so the key ends up no longer being a
perfect fit into them and eventually stops working. Oil won't help. My front
door lock went the same way at about the same age and sod's law eventually
jammed in the closed position. In the end I had to cut the bolt off with a
1mm angle grinder disc which just fitted in between the door and frame.
Before yours end up the same I'd replace them although if they're standard
sizes it should be a lot less than £200 and it's only a five minute job for
each lock.
--
Dave Baker
andyv
Yes £200 is a lot, but they are Chubb locks and I want the same key in
each. Chubb seems to make lock sizes different to all the others that
are quite a bit cheaper. I might consider some mods to make another
model fit, but Chubb do seem to have a good reputation.
NT
First thing to do is take the lock off and see what the problem is. It
might be:
- needs a clean out due to gummed oil
- needs lubrication, use graphite not oil
- parts worn, in which case file all down by the same amount and get
new keys cut.
NT
fred
<bdcfb123-c81e-4fe9...@a30g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>,
andyv <ave...@fastmail.fm> writes
>
>Yes £200 is a lot, but they are Chubb locks and I want the same key in
>each. Chubb seems to make lock sizes different to all the others that
>are quite a bit cheaper. I might consider some mods to make another
>model fit, but Chubb do seem to have a good reputation.
By all means dismantle the locks to see if there is anything obvious
stopping them working but it does sound as if they're just worn out and
you will need to replace them.
I used to fit Chubb on quality but now choose Union as having taken them
apart I am happy with the quality of the bits & build.
If you download a full listing of Union mortice locks you should find
direct replacements for even the unusual Chubbs (detainer locks
excepted). You can usually get a hint on the lock model from the strike
and whether it is a 2 screw mount or 4, take out the lock for the case
size.
For Chubb or Union you will likely have a little bit of rework on the
strike side, the latest revision of BS3621 called for increases in bolt
size and throw so the strikes are bigger.
Any decent online supplier will do keyed alike for you at a nominal
charge, try: http://www.lockshop-warehouse.co.uk/
4 Unions from the above would be under 100quid shipped and keyed alike.
If you do change to Union, keep the Chubb escutcheons for confusion
factor ;-)
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks
Derek Geldard
wrote:
>> Before I am forced to spend the cash is there anything that can be
>> done to ease them up.
>
>The brass plates inside wear over time so the key ends up no longer being a
>perfect fit into them and eventually stops working. Oil won't help. My front
>door lock went the same way at about the same age and sod's law eventually
>jammed in the closed position. In the end I had to cut the bolt off with a
>1mm angle grinder disc which just fitted in between the door and frame.
>Before yours end up the same I'd replace them although if they're standard
>sizes it should be a lot less than £200 and it's only a five minute job for
>each lock.
I also had that. :-(
However, it can also be the heavy metalwork bits that have worn such
as the bushing around the handle, bolt + bolt "shoot", you need to
open it up and have a look.
A proper locksmith might have the requisite bits in his box.
Derek.
PhilB
"Part timer" <hhmn...@googlemail.com> wrote in message
news:93c74ded-c314-4e21...@u26g2000yqu.googlegroups.com...
We had a lock like that - the problem was it was not Euro (or modern)
standard so
could not be replaced without a lot of chiselling to the door.
We went to a locksmith who advised that the keys were jamming because the
slot
was worn. He fixed the lock and supplied 6 keys cut from a blank with an
oversized shank, all for about £30.
Works perfectly!
Phil
Weatherlawyer
>
> I have a set of 4 sash locks on various external doors. They are 30
> years old and it's often a struggle to get the key to turn.
All four locks failed at the same time?
Odd.
Have you had subsidence or a flood? If so, the frames may want
tickling.