Filling hole in kitchen worktop

[JoeJoe]

Had my boiler has recently been relocated from the utility room, and I
am now left with a 6cm x 25cm cut out in the worktop where the pipes
used to pass through.

It is a standard chipboard laminated worktop, L-shaped (mitred). As it
is in an almost invisible position, and will probably have a microwave
sitting on top on the cut out, I am quite happy to keep it, as long as I
can fill the hole somehow. The cut out is against the wall, and I will
tile to it once the hole is filled.

I am looking for a hard, preferably light in colour, water-resistant
surface.

Best I could come up with is to screw and glue a scrap piece of wood to
cover the hole, leaving a few millimetres gap at the top, and them fill
with wood filler to the surface of the worktop. If possible varnish the
top of the filler.

Will it work? Any better ideas?

TIA.

[Martin Brown]

On 07/02/2013 09:23, JoeJoe wrote:
> Had my boiler has recently been relocated from the utility room, and I
> am now left with a 6cm x 25cm cut out in the worktop where the pipes
> used to pass through.
>
> It is a standard chipboard laminated worktop, L-shaped (mitred). As it
> is in an almost invisible position, and will probably have a microwave
> sitting on top on the cut out, I am quite happy to keep it, as long as I
> can fill the hole somehow. The cut out is against the wall, and I will
> tile to it once the hole is filled.
>
> I am looking for a hard, preferably light in colour, water-resistant
> surface.

Do you have any offcuts of the original worksurface material or able to
find something close enough in B&Q patterned edging tape?

What surface finish are you aiming for?

> Best I could come up with is to screw and glue a scrap piece of wood to
> cover the hole, leaving a few millimetres gap at the top, and them fill
> with wood filler to the surface of the worktop. If possible varnish the
> top of the filler.
>
> Will it work? Any better ideas?

I'd probably be inclined to use a pigmented and filled acrylic polymer
resin liquid cast to get the top surface to match and watertight seal.
They sell something like it for filling in joints. Not ideal if it will
be under load but should be OK in a dark corner.

If time was no object I might even craft a piece of wood to be an exact
match after tapering the hole slightly to stop it falling through.
Things are easier if you have access to the underside.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[JoeJoe]

Haven't thought of that...

Just done it and it worked a treat! Will give it a coat of varnish once
glue is dry for water resistance.

Many thanks again!

[Brian Gaff]

I'd be worried if there is any likelihood of damp getting in and doing
untold things to the material, but if nothing has happened thus far, I'd
imagine your idea would be fine.

Brian

--
Brian Gaff....Note, this account does not accept Bcc: email.
graphics are great, but the blind can't hear them
Email: bri...@blueyonder.co.uk
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[JoeJoe]

On 07/02/2013 12:08, Brian Gaff wrote:
> I'd be worried if there is any likelihood of damp getting in and doing
> untold things to the material, but if nothing has happened thus far, I'd
> imagine your idea would be fine.
>
> Brian
>

Sink is at opposite end of the room, and I cannot envisage it ever
facing more than a quick wipe with a damp cloth. The plan is for the
microwave to sit on top of it.

[Ian Jackson]

In message <JqednZyNpsneAY7M...@brightview.co.uk>, JoeJoe
<n...@mail.com> writes

Wood hardener (plenty of it) is good for waterproofing the edges of
absorbent materials like chipboard. Slosh it on until it's saturated.
--
Ian

[stuart noble]

Why bother if it's nowhere near a source of water?
I'd whack a piece of contiboard (or whatever melamine faced stuff I had
lying about) in there, mainly to give a level, wipe down surface. Set it
in the hole with body filler

[snot]

On 07/02/2013 09:23, JoeJoe wrote:

Covered with a microwave?
There's your answer. Put the microwave on top of the hole and forget
about it. Simples.

--
Blow my nose to email me

[Dave Liquorice]

On Thu, 07 Feb 2013 17:32:41 +0000, stuart noble wrote:

>> Wood hardener (plenty of it) is good for waterproofing the edges of
>> absorbent materials like chipboard. Slosh it on until it's saturated.
>
> Why bother if it's nowhere near a source of water?

Microwaves produce quite large quantities of warm moist air. Depending on
where that flows you could get condensation forming. I'd make sure the
edge of the worktop is well sealed at least along the top edge if filling
the hole with something, which is proably adviseable or you will get warm
moist air into the void or cupboard below...

--
Cheers
Dave.

[JoeJoe]

Managed to cut a piece of wood to fit very tightly. Put plenty of PVA
glue + a couple of screws, so completely sealed around it. For good
measure varnished the top, and it looks really good (colou doesn't
match, but I really don't mind that.