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Worktop jigsaw blades

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Brian Dale

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Apr 15, 2001, 5:13:54 PM4/15/01
to
I've been trying to cut a kitchen worktop using the special blades
that Black and Decker do for cutting worktops. They cut on the
downward stroke to leave a clean cut on the top surface.

However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on the
underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an angle
considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?

--
Brian Dale
19 Broomfield Road
Surbiton
Surrey
KT5 9AZ

Tel: 020 8399 9308


Anthony Frost

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Apr 15, 2001, 5:48:40 PM4/15/01
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In message <3ADA0F12...@nospamvirgin.net>
Brian Dale <brian...@nospamvirgin.net> wrote:

> I've been trying to cut a kitchen worktop using the special blades
> that Black and Decker do for cutting worktops. They cut on the
> downward stroke to leave a clean cut on the top surface.
>
> However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on the
> underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an angle
> considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?

That is often a sign you are trying to force the blade through the
material rather than letting it cut its way through properly. Next time
take it more slowly and don't push so hard, and you'll probably get a
much steadier cut.

Anthony

--
| If it moves and shouldn't, Gaffer tape it |
| If it doesn't move but should, WD40 it |

Trevor Yates

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Apr 15, 2001, 6:13:28 PM4/15/01
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You will find that this doesn't only happen with these special worktop
blades. You will get the same problem with any blade when cutting thick
material if the blade is forced thru too quickly (or at too tight an angle).
You must use a sharp blade and let the blade and the saw do all the work.


Trevor

Anthony Frost wrote in message <07cca6b4a%Vu...@kerrier.vulch.org>...

Simon Avery

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Apr 15, 2001, 6:47:16 PM4/15/01
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Brian Dale <brian...@nospamvirgin.net> wrote:

Hello Brian

> BD| I've been trying to cut a kitchen worktop using the special
> BD| blades that Black and Decker do for cutting worktops. They
> BD| cut on the downward stroke to leave a clean cut on the top
> BD| surface.
> BD| However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on
> BD| the underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an
> BD| angle considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?

Yes, it's endemic to all jigsaw blades IME.

Handy tip for cutting laminates. Score /through/ the laminate on the
cutting line with a sharp blade and cut on the waste side of that.
That'll leave a perfect non-jaggy finish every time if you're careful
to keep the blade away from the good end. (A guide-batten is useful
here)

Finish off with a hand plane (short cut) and sandpaper.

--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
Personal pages: http://www.s.avery.btinternet.co.uk/
uk.d-i-y FAQs : http://pages.eidosnet.co.uk/~ukdiy/index.html

Brian Dale

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Apr 16, 2001, 6:39:48 AM4/16/01
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Many thanks

Simon Avery wrote:

--

Ju1971uk

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Apr 16, 2001, 5:17:39 PM4/16/01
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if your cut is for a sink / hob appature it shouldnt matter but if its for a
visible end you will only get good results with a router

Simon King

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Apr 17, 2001, 4:46:26 AM4/17/01
to
Ju1971uk wrote:
>
> if your cut is for a sink / hob appature it shouldnt matter but if its
> for a visible end you will only get good results with a router

Not true. An electric plane gives an excellent finish. Don't know how
good laminate is for the blade though.

Simon

Paul Mc Cann

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Apr 17, 2001, 1:49:34 PM4/17/01
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In article <3ADA0F12...@nospamvirgin.net>,
brian...@nospamvirgin.net says...
Yes its a real b*****d. It is caused by either forcing the blade in the
cut or applying too much correction or a combination of both. IME jigsaws
are not much cop for this sort of thing. A good quality hand saw will do
a surprisingly good job on kitchen worktop if the blade angle is kept
low.

--
Paul Mc Cann

Sedulously eschew obfuscatory hyperverbosity or prolixity.

Ju1971uk

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Apr 17, 2001, 5:36:04 PM4/17/01
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Im sure you may be satisfied with a planed result, but if your gonna go to the
expence of installing a new worktop, get it right and use the correct tools.

ttfn35

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Apr 17, 2001, 9:10:01 PM4/17/01
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In article <3ADA0F12...@nospamvirgin.net>, Brian Dale wrote:

>Brian Dale
>19 Broomfield Road
>Surbiton
>Surrey
>KT5 9AZ
>
>Tel: 020 8399 9308

Shucks, some people. Bet he's a naturist. Let it all hang out, why not.


Phil Addison

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Apr 18, 2001, 5:55:10 AM4/18/01
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On 18 Apr 2001 01:10:01 GMT, in uk.d-i-y new...@ttfn35.freeserve.co.uk

(ttfn35) wrote:
>Shucks, some people. Bet he's a naturist. Let it all hang out, why not.

What on earth are you blathering about?

--
Phil Addison

Chris French

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Apr 18, 2001, 6:39:44 AM4/18/01
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In message <m1pqdt8qdeumhu4rj...@4ax.com>, Phil Addison
<phi...@bigfoot.com> writes
I think it was a rather odd way to question the sensiblity of publishing
a full address and phone number on usenet.

--
Chris French, Leeds

Jim Easterbrook

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Apr 18, 2001, 4:02:55 PM4/18/01
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Simon Avery <SPAM.B.GO...@softhome.net> wrote:

> Brian Dale <brian...@nospamvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> Hello Brian
>

> > BD| However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on
> > BD| the underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an
> > BD| angle considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?
>
> Yes, it's endemic to all jigsaw blades IME.

I agree, although I only have a cheapo Power Devil jigsaw.

> Handy tip for cutting laminates. Score /through/ the laminate on the
> cutting line with a sharp blade and cut on the waste side of that.
> That'll leave a perfect non-jaggy finish every time if you're careful
> to keep the blade away from the good end. (A guide-batten is useful
> here)

Practise first. I've found that any attempt to use a guide batten with
my jigsaw produces severe wandering, and even a broken blade on one
occasion. My jigsaw is built crooked, so you have to hold it at a slight
angle to the cutting line. Any restraint causes problems.
--
Jim Easterbrook <http://www.easter.mersinet.co.uk/>

Paul Burridge

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Apr 18, 2001, 5:12:31 PM4/18/01
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On Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:48:40 +0100, Anthony Frost <Vu...@vulch.org>
opined thusly:

>That is often a sign you are trying to force the blade through the
>material rather than letting it cut its way through properly. Next time
>take it more slowly and don't push so hard, and you'll probably get a
>much steadier cut.

On a 'decent' B&D jigsaw I used and had this problem, slowing right
down to a virtual standstill still didn't improve matters and the
angle from perp. was quite alarming; something approaching 30 degrees,
in fact.
Next time I bought one of these dirt-cheap, no-adjustment Ralley
jigsaws from Focus for 9.99 (on special offer) and never had any
trouble with it. In both cases the w/t was 40mm laminated. Strange.
:-/
--
"Generally speaking, women are and remain the most downright and
incurable Philistines." - Schopenhauer, 'Parerga & Paralipomena' vol.II

ian_c...@my-deja.com

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Apr 18, 2001, 6:21:10 PM4/18/01
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Paul Burridge wrote:
>
> On a 'decent' B&D jigsaw I used and had this problem, slowing right
> down to a virtual standstill still didn't improve matters and the
> angle from perp. was quite alarming; something approaching 30 degrees,
> in fact.

Sounds like my 8 year old or so B+D. Supposedly a fancy-ish scrolling
model, but useless (by me, I'm not denying operator error) for cutting
anything other than 4mm sheet or rough work.

I'll try to me more gentle next time to see if it helps. I actually end
up with bent blades though, so I'll put a new one in first...

Paul Mc Cann

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Apr 28, 2001, 7:27:34 PM4/28/01
to
In article <1es2vea.1wvcykp1oi9n40N%j...@easter.mersinet.co.uk>,
j...@easter.mersinet.co.uk says...
>snip

>
> Practise first. I've found that any attempt to use a guide batten with
> my jigsaw produces severe wandering, and even a broken blade on one
> occasion. My jigsaw is built crooked, so you have to hold it at a slight
> angle to the cutting line. Any restraint causes problems.
>

I have a theory that jig saw blades have varying degrees of "drift"
similar to a bandsaw blade. (As an explanation, after installing a new
bandsaw blade it is always necessary to test it for drift and adjust and
side fence accordingly. Sometime the side fence can appear very askew
when it has been set to compensate for the blade drift. )

Stuart Noble

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Apr 29, 2001, 6:52:04 AM4/29/01
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Paul Mc Cann wrote in message ...

>I have a theory that jig saw blades have varying degrees of "drift"
>similar to a bandsaw blade. (As an explanation, after installing a new
>bandsaw blade it is always necessary to test it for drift and adjust and
>side fence accordingly. Sometime the side fence can appear very askew
>when it has been set to compensate for the blade drift. )
In my experience, cheap jigsaws don't work. For years I had a beefy AEG
which would cut through 2" of hardwood at 90 degs every time. All the cheap
replacements I've had since suffer from the same wandering tendencies.


Paul Mc Cann

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Apr 30, 2001, 4:53:07 PM4/30/01
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In article <9chjmj$ero$2...@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk>,
stu...@waxworks.fsnet.co.uk says...
Except that I had the problem described when I attempted to trim a
worktop with the best Bosch jigsaw. Probably sods law, as it was the last
job to do before finishing up, late on a Sunday night, with the prospect
of a 135 mile drive home ahead of me.
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