However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on the
underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an angle
considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?
--
Brian Dale
19 Broomfield Road
Surbiton
Surrey
KT5 9AZ
Tel: 020 8399 9308
> I've been trying to cut a kitchen worktop using the special blades
> that Black and Decker do for cutting worktops. They cut on the
> downward stroke to leave a clean cut on the top surface.
>
> However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on the
> underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an angle
> considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?
That is often a sign you are trying to force the blade through the
material rather than letting it cut its way through properly. Next time
take it more slowly and don't push so hard, and you'll probably get a
much steadier cut.
Anthony
--
| If it moves and shouldn't, Gaffer tape it |
| If it doesn't move but should, WD40 it |
Trevor
Anthony Frost wrote in message <07cca6b4a%Vu...@kerrier.vulch.org>...
Hello Brian
> BD| I've been trying to cut a kitchen worktop using the special
> BD| blades that Black and Decker do for cutting worktops. They
> BD| cut on the downward stroke to leave a clean cut on the top
> BD| surface.
> BD| However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on
> BD| the underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an
> BD| angle considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?
Yes, it's endemic to all jigsaw blades IME.
Handy tip for cutting laminates. Score /through/ the laminate on the
cutting line with a sharp blade and cut on the waste side of that.
That'll leave a perfect non-jaggy finish every time if you're careful
to keep the blade away from the good end. (A guide-batten is useful
here)
Finish off with a hand plane (short cut) and sandpaper.
--
Simon Avery, Dartmoor, UK
Personal pages: http://www.s.avery.btinternet.co.uk/
uk.d-i-y FAQs : http://pages.eidosnet.co.uk/~ukdiy/index.html
Simon Avery wrote:
--
Not true. An electric plane gives an excellent finish. Don't know how
good laminate is for the blade though.
Simon
--
Paul Mc Cann
Sedulously eschew obfuscatory hyperverbosity or prolixity.
>Brian Dale
>19 Broomfield Road
>Surbiton
>Surrey
>KT5 9AZ
>
>Tel: 020 8399 9308
Shucks, some people. Bet he's a naturist. Let it all hang out, why not.
What on earth are you blathering about?
--
Phil Addison
--
Chris French, Leeds
> Brian Dale <brian...@nospamvirgin.net> wrote:
>
> Hello Brian
>
> > BD| However, all looks OK on the top, but I'm finding that on
> > BD| the underside of the cut the blade has "wandered" at an
> > BD| angle considerably. Has anyone else experienced this?
>
> Yes, it's endemic to all jigsaw blades IME.
I agree, although I only have a cheapo Power Devil jigsaw.
> Handy tip for cutting laminates. Score /through/ the laminate on the
> cutting line with a sharp blade and cut on the waste side of that.
> That'll leave a perfect non-jaggy finish every time if you're careful
> to keep the blade away from the good end. (A guide-batten is useful
> here)
Practise first. I've found that any attempt to use a guide batten with
my jigsaw produces severe wandering, and even a broken blade on one
occasion. My jigsaw is built crooked, so you have to hold it at a slight
angle to the cutting line. Any restraint causes problems.
--
Jim Easterbrook <http://www.easter.mersinet.co.uk/>
>That is often a sign you are trying to force the blade through the
>material rather than letting it cut its way through properly. Next time
>take it more slowly and don't push so hard, and you'll probably get a
>much steadier cut.
On a 'decent' B&D jigsaw I used and had this problem, slowing right
down to a virtual standstill still didn't improve matters and the
angle from perp. was quite alarming; something approaching 30 degrees,
in fact.
Next time I bought one of these dirt-cheap, no-adjustment Ralley
jigsaws from Focus for 9.99 (on special offer) and never had any
trouble with it. In both cases the w/t was 40mm laminated. Strange.
:-/
--
"Generally speaking, women are and remain the most downright and
incurable Philistines." - Schopenhauer, 'Parerga & Paralipomena' vol.II
Paul Burridge wrote:
>
> On a 'decent' B&D jigsaw I used and had this problem, slowing right
> down to a virtual standstill still didn't improve matters and the
> angle from perp. was quite alarming; something approaching 30 degrees,
> in fact.
Sounds like my 8 year old or so B+D. Supposedly a fancy-ish scrolling
model, but useless (by me, I'm not denying operator error) for cutting
anything other than 4mm sheet or rough work.
I'll try to me more gentle next time to see if it helps. I actually end
up with bent blades though, so I'll put a new one in first...
>
> Practise first. I've found that any attempt to use a guide batten with
> my jigsaw produces severe wandering, and even a broken blade on one
> occasion. My jigsaw is built crooked, so you have to hold it at a slight
> angle to the cutting line. Any restraint causes problems.
>
I have a theory that jig saw blades have varying degrees of "drift"
similar to a bandsaw blade. (As an explanation, after installing a new
bandsaw blade it is always necessary to test it for drift and adjust and
side fence accordingly. Sometime the side fence can appear very askew
when it has been set to compensate for the blade drift. )