On 25/05/2022 18:14, Andrew wrote:
> On 25/05/2022 17:55, John Rumm wrote:
>> On 25/05/2022 11:33, R D S wrote:
>>> On 24/05/2022 18:05, John Rumm wrote:
>>> "and want to be set back from the edge of the lining by 5 to 10mm
>>> depending on preference"
>>> Now why is that, i've gone to pains to make them flush!
>> Like most of these building "rules", because it was decided at some
>> point that it looks better... however there is usually a practical
>> element as well - if you fix things flush, then you can normally
>> guarantee they won't remain so with seasonal wood movement - so better
>> to make a feature of the reveal rather than have a line that splits
>> the paint each season.
> Apparently having some sort of gap or inwards step in the plasterboard
> around door linings is the 'modern' way -
Now there's ugly for you :-)
(not to mention built in dust traps, with lots of places for shrinkage
and settlement cracks to become visible)
> But anyone who has resorted to some sort of DIY plastering around
> door linings is probably glad to use some sort of architrave trim
> to hide the result :-)
Indeed... and that is one of the reasons these things are traditionally
done, so you can fit square and plumb lining to what might not be a
perfectly matching hole in the wall, and then "tune" it to the door
to get even looking gaps all round. Ultimately you need a way of hiding
the mechanisms used to make this all work from view.
 i.e. when you fix the lining, you want it square and level, but the
opening might not be, so you need packers to bring it square and plumb -
leaving visible packers and gaps behind the lining. Then once the door
is hung, you want the gap to be even all round, so you can hammer wedges
between the opening and the lining to move the frame slightly (which
will be fixed in the centre of the board deliberately so the edges can
Hence on reason why you have architraves to hide any gaps, packers, and